Every weekend in an inconspicuous Buenos Aires park, shuffling pensioners walking their dogs are replaced by stomping youths showcasing their latest piercing, hair colour or eyeliner. For a quiet park in the upmarket Recoleta barrio this appears odd. But, as I ventured into the dark underbelly of Buenos Aires – armed with my new name, Funeral Freak, courtesy of a website – I began to see things weren’t quite as they seemed.
Here, at the back of Bond Street – Buenos Aires’ alternative shopping gallery – the city’s Goth community meet to hang out, as it is one of the few places they can call their own. A creative collective, people sit playing music and many draw and take photos, which are later loaded on to online photologs; “You start to recognise people and make new friends through it,” a girl told me.
Most people I spoke to were friendly and forthcoming with information. Perhaps, as Sebastian, a 16-year-old emo, noted, this was because I was interested in what he had to say. “People think it’s something depressing but it isn’t. The fashion and the music are all to do with emotion…it’s just a way to express yourself. The appearance is relative, but only to how you feel and behave. It’s not the most important thing.”
The Dark Divide
Whilst all the dark clothing, music paraphernalia and invariably dyed hair, pierced and made-up faces would be labelled by many as ‘goth’ characteristics, this would be simplifying things. Yanina, 15, listed the many groups – emos, Goths or ‘darkies’ (as they’re known here), punks and glams to name but a few – each with their distinct style and tastes.
Yanina, an emo – a very emotionally sensitive person – explained it was difficult being a Goth in a country like Argentina. “People often think that it’s something ‘gay’ because of the clothes and make-up. We are very emotional people. The Argentine man is not very emotional so the men have more prejudice. Women less because they can understand it more.”
Furthermore, and quite surprisingly, hostility exists between the different groups. Recent fights at Abasto shopping centre between different bands have resulted in people steering clear of the goth hotspot. Some punks I spoke to called emos ‘gays’, claiming they were always depressed, complaining and even self-harming. They by contrast, claimed to be fun: “We drink, we smoke, we go out.” The visual kei group remarked that they, unlike others, all have different friends: “It doesn’t matter what they look like. For other groups it does, particularly for the darkies.”
Visual Kei, one the more notable factions, is influenced by a Japanese music movement and characterised by its flamboyant and striking look. A group of visuals explained more to me: “It comes from the bands that we like. The lyrics have deep messages but it is also very visual. The image matters as much as the music.”
Inu, Neko, Guada and Kio – their visual names – were particularly open and interesting. They knew their stuff and their love for it was clear. It was entirely for them, and not for show, as you suspect it is with some of the others. They told me how the movement had recently become popular, a couple of years ago, following the arrival of animé in Argentina.
It is just one of the movements within the Goth sub-culture that is expanding across the world; and Buenos Aires is no different. Talking to some of the younger ‘Goths’ in Parque Rodriguez Peña you can see why it appeals. It fits with the angsty, lost teenager phase, and gives identity to a lot of people.
However, its obscure nature sets the social group apart. It becomes obvious that there are few ‘Goth’ prerequisites and no one could provide me with a definition of what it is to be a ‘Goth’. Its ideology is so dependent on mood and the aesthetic, as well as the individual. While some appear clear in their philosophies, others seem more focussed on rebellion against family, friends and any kind of authority. The prevalent characteristic however is that it is a ‘subculture’ of people who feel comfortable in each others’ company and enjoy the same music, art, or culture.
Public Perception
Interestingly there is no single religious element running through the gothic movement. Undeniably there is a heavy spiritual aspect that occasionally borders on the supernatural, but, as they informed me, the connotations are generally limited to the aesthetic; particularly the use of Catholic imagery. Sebastian added that there are a few groups that are deeply religious, but “it’s more common that people are against religion; not because of the religion itself but because of its commercialism. They don’t want to be told what to believe.”
Goths are associated with Satanism, vampirism, fascism and, invariably, forms of sexual perversion. The movement incites fear in many. Significantly, the media claimed that the Columbine High School shooters were Goths and similar links continue to be made. When googleing ‘Goth’, one of the first results is www.godhatesgoths.com – the official website of the parents against Goths organisation.
This struck me as a crucial point, particularly for some of these ‘baby bats’ (Goth slang for younger, new Goths). What did their parents think of it? The answer was surprisingly positive. Although I heard one ‘my parents have disowned me’ line, and a few ‘my parents don’t like it at all’ some told me their parents were understanding. Inu, one of the visuals, reasoned that they have the same values as everyone else. “People think we’re druggies. But we’re not, the opposite. We go to school, have friends, families. Like everyone.”
All agreed there was a lot of prejudice. “People look at you and think certain things. People won’t sit here. We’re normal people,” Nicolás explained. “You realise, what we say is fair,” he added, trying to fully justify his point. “We are not here to change anything, we are not going to do anything. We are not criminals. But people call us things…Nazis, this, that. There is a lot of discrimination.”
Misunderstanding does shroud the Goth subculture. Though, to be fair, this is in part due to its indefinable nature. People are curious, and quick-to-judge. Nicolás hit the nine-inch nail on the head without me asking. “A lot of people ask ‘why do you do this? What about your family?’ But it’s got nothing to do with that. I get on well with my family, they are not a reason for it.” He, like many, first got involved in it through the music as a young teen: “About three years ago I really got into this band, so then I looked for more similar stuff.” Nicolás’ mum was also a punk, back in the day, which has, no doubt, influenced him.
When I was with them I didn’t feel out of place, although I’m sure few of the people I spoke to would feel the same if the tables were turned. Only one person made a comment about my ‘odd’ appearance. “We are all people first and foremost. Whether you’re black or Asian, have pink-died hair. But people don’t understand. People won’t sit here if we’re here because they’re scared but it has nothing to do with us really. It’s their opinion. They have their own style, we don’t mind. For example you like to wear white trainers. He likes to die his hair pink, nothing more.”
Dark Futures
Is it just a phase? “For me, I don’t think so. But I don’t like to think about the future… it scares me,” replied Yanina. “There’s always something new. It depends on the person. There are different phases; after school, university, then who knows. People change. It depends what happens in their future.” Some of the visuals seemed more focussed and ambitious. The girls told me they were learning Japanese and dreamt of one day going to Japan, while Neko, wants to become involved in the world of fashion and cosmetics.
It plays a big part in all of their lives. It’s all or nothing. No part-timers here. Although I can’t help but wonder if some are in fact just in it for the weekend, some kind of sordid double-life… I’m beginning to see the attraction. Goodbye white pumps. Hello black boots.