For those who have a little Spanish language knowledge Manzana de Las Luces is certainly an intriguing tour destination, conjuring up images of particularly shiny apples – for me at least! I was assured, however, that a visit to this square in between Perú and Bolívar 200 – whose name literally translates as ‘block of lights’ – is worthwhile to broaden your knowledge of Buenos Aires’ history and to explore the city’s legendary hidden passages.
The tour begins in the rental houses built on the request of Viceroy Juan José de Vértiz in 1783. Our guide launched abruptly into the history of the building without ensuring that everyone had received the information sheet, which is available in English. This caused some anxiety for non Spanish speakers as one lady angrily requested that we, at least, be told the names of the different places covered in English. The tour company makes it clear that visits are in Spanish, though an English speaking guide can be reserved a week or more in advance.
We moved swiftly into the Mercado de Las Luces, where our guide had requested we resist the temptation to lose ourselves amongst the merchandise. While the market is set in an impressive, white washed hall, it trades more on its atmospheric location than the standard fare on offer.
Next up was the Hall of Representatives, completed in 1821 by French architect, Próspero Catelin. This room has witnessed many important political moments in Argentine history, including Bernadino Rivadavia being sworn in as the first president of the United Provinces of Río de la Plata.
Some vocabulary confusion led me to believe that the politicians who used the chamber were troubled by a giant spider lurking in the ceiling. Our attention was, rather, being directed towards the majestic glass chandelier that used to illuminate the debates and meetings held there.
After being regaled with the details of a failed murder attempt against the life of former Buenos Aires governor Juan Manuel de Rosas, delivered with particular ‘who done it’ gusto by our guide, we visited the Manzana de las Luces courtyard. This area has served many different functions over the years, including as a pharmacy, which was organised and equipped by famed Irish priest Thomas Faulkner, and as a centre of commerce for products bought by indigenous people from the Jesuit organised ‘Missions’ in the north of the country.
Finally we entered the (highly anticipated) underground tunnels. At this point, our guide ensured that everyone who had not paid the entrance fee handed over the cash perhaps because, as a friend pointed out, there was now no escape!
I admit to being slightly disappointed as only a very small section of one of the tunnels is open to the public; many of them remain unexplored. It was interesting to hear about their probable uses, however. These included confusing British soldiers who attacked Buenos Aires twice in the early 1800s, by allowing those defending the city to disappear without a trace.
After the tour, our guide kindly repeated her explanation behind the name Manzana de las Luces to me (you’ll have to go to find out!) and provided the English information sheet, which contains many of the most interesting tour details.
While the tunnels were not as breathtaking as I had anticipated, a visit to this square, the centre of four centuries of fascinating history, is a must. It remains a great cultural reference point, having been a Jesuit residence, centre of commerce, school and home to the National General Archives and the National Library, amongst other functions. I was sufficiently intrigued by all I had learnt to pop round the corner to see the San Ignacio church, another cultural landmark, built for the Jesuits in 1662.
My only advice would be to organise to have an English guide if your Spanish isn’t great, as it is a challenge to keep up with a tour that sprints through 400 years of key historical moments.
The Tour of the Viceroy’s houses, Hall of Representatives and the tunnels leave from Perú 272, cost $5 and take place every week day at 3pm. They also happen on Saturdays at 3pm and 6pm and on Sundays at 6pm. An alternative tour of Manzana de las Luces from the outside is available on Saturdays at 4.30pm and on Sundays at 3pm and 4.30pm.
For more information about Manzana de las Luces call 4342 3964, or visit the website: www.manzanadelasluces.gov.ar