The airport in Bariloche will be closed from the 24^th October until the 20^th December, while workers make renovations and improvements to the runways and other facilities.  The project had been scheduled for later in 2012, but airport representatives say it was moved forward because of the activity of Chilean volcano Puyehue.

Furthermore, new eruptions from the volcano are once again affecting residents of San Carlos de Bariloche and other areas in Patagonia. Sanitation authorities are recommending that people use facemasks to protect themselves from the ash and to stay inside when possible.

The latest report from Chile’s National Service of Geology and Mining (SERNAGEOMIN) recorded a change in the seismic activity of the volcano, causing an increase in minor eruptions and the release of a small quantity of lava.

According to officials, water vapour is being released along with the ash. This material is being suspended in the air by strong winds.  The sun then dries the material, leaving a massive ash cloud that hovers instead of falling or dissipating.

Experts at SERNAGEOMIN said, “Given the current characteristics of the volcano’s activity, this phenomenon could continue for months”.

There are additional concerns that more eruptions may occur because of obstructions in the exit path inside the volcano by the lava that has been produced since June.

Argentine skiing (Photo: Andre Charland)

Sometimes there can be a slight repetition amongst the skiing community. Not only do all tales of the slopes involve, yes snow, maybe one vin chaud too many, the occasional rescue helicopter, but also the same places. “Last year we had Christmas in les trois vallées”, “Courmayer is just the place to go in Easter”, or “Have you heard of Tignes?” – yes, actually I have. Sometimes you just want to try something different.

Argentine skiing is certainly this. Yes there aren’t that many resorts, no they’re not that big, and trying to hunt down a croque monsieur is just a nightmare. But there is much more to offer. Whether you just happen to find yourself at the foot of Cerro Catedral with a pair of ski boots flung over your shoulder, or you have purposefully made the thousands of miles journey in search of the heliskiing of Las Leñas, you will have a good experience in the snow here.

Skiing here is undoubtedly below the standard set in the Northern Hemisphere. So how do the resorts entice thousands used to the likes of Aspen, Val d’isere and Zermatt every year? Well there’s the obvious reason. While the slopes of Whistler are greener than an English meadow and glacier skiing in France and Austria leave you restricted to what is ultimately a patch of ice perched on the peak of a mountain, the southern hemisphere is enjoying daily snowfall and foots of fresh powder.

Many national race teams from the northern hemisphere come down to train in the fresh snow, escaping the monotony of gym sessions and repetitive courses. There is a new-breed of seasonaire too; the snow chaser. Many are now living in a constant cycle of ski seasons, where they travel from north to south – a lifestyle impossible a decade ago.

Argentine skiing though delivers a lot more than just a summer time jaunt to fill in the gap. There is a certain charm about the journey across to Mendoza, into the depths of Patagonia, or even down, down, down to Ushuaia. Skiing ultimately is about exploration, adventure and a way to travel. I used to love hearing my friend’s mum from Finland telling of how she would ski to school, or seeing old pictures of hunters and explorers with their wooden skis. The pursuit of snow sports therefore seems a fitting goal as you drive (OK probably fly) across the Pampas to the snowy peaks. Skiing in Argentina is above all an adventure – the true heart of any decent ski holiday.

Llao Llao Resort in Bariloche (Photo: Murilo Cardoso)

A trip to Bariloche – the king of resorts in Argentina – may instantly trick you into forgetting that 15 hour flight from Europe and make you believe you actually just skipped over to Geneva. There are many aspects of the resort, and indeed many others in the country, which echo its European forbearers; the wooden buildings, the ski-shops, and yes the amazing chocolate. However you are undoubtedly in Argentina and nobody will let you forget it. Whether it is the food in the cafes, the chattering of castellano all around, or the regaton pumping from the après disco you will soon realise that any familiarities were soon an illusion.

You will also find that snow activities vary much more wildly. Whilst European resorts can offer you a cross country ski course, ice-skating or the ultimate disappointment that is snow shoeing, the extra-curricular activities here are not just a dull alternative. Indeed some border on the bizarre. Bariloche has a beauty pageant whilst Cerro Castor hosts a ‘Rugby X-treme’ tournament – where local, ex-puma and national players fight it out in sevens matches in the snow. Continuing the theme of sports in the snow, the Julius Baer Argentina Snow Cup is an official snow polo competition. Certified by the World Polo Tour it is a respected part of the international circuit. Held in Chapelco, the resort of San Martín de los Andes, this year it is a reason in itself to book a trip to the host ski resort. On a more relaxing note, the medium sized resort of Caviahue near Nequén, which is unusually enjoying the best snow in all of Argentina this season thus far, has hot spring waters with volcanic mineral properties. One positive aspect of Argentina’s proximity to the pacific ring of fire.

You will also get the opportunity to be a spectator to international ski and snowboard competitions in Argentina. Bariloche hosts its own snow festival in August, as well as regular international freestyle competitions. August also brings the International Ski Federation (FIS) alpine ski races to Cerro Castor down in Ushuaia. All the excitement of watching in Europe, except hopefully without the Austrian’s cherished cow bell.

San Martin de los Andes before the Volcano damage. (Photo: Alicia Nijdam)

This season has undoubtedly gotten off to the worst start imaginable. The chaos that falling volcanic ash brought to towns such as Villa la Angostura and San Martín de los Andes in June and July will take them years to recover from.

Snow has also been shy in falling. Bariloche, which last year enjoyed a bumper season, is still only ‘limitedly open’, whilst Cerro Castor and Las Leñas have only now just reached full swing.

However Argentines have proved themselves to be more than resilient when faced with a challenge. With a steadily improving national economy, and a booming local one (until the chaos of the ash cloud of course) infrastructure is improving all the time. Much is publicised about Bariloche’s modern infrastructure, which has been drastically expanded and improved in recent years. The other resorts are watching the success this has brought to that area, and as popularity increases resorts across Argentina are only going to get bigger and more efficient.

So why not join the hordes of Brazilians, squeeze into your onesie and head to the slopes. Maybe it will help us remember why skiing used to be such an adventure.

The return of volcanic ash to Buenos Aires will see cancellations until “at least 12pm”.  Ash from the Chilean volcano Puyehue fell in the city yesterday.

Jorge Newbery announced this morning that it would suspend all operations. The principle airline companies also independently cancelled their flights because of the presence of ash in the airspace.

They have released a statement saying “they are analysing the official information, but for now have decided to maintain flights suspended, until weather conditions improve.”

In contrast, flights leaving Ezieza have remained unaffected. Flights were cancelled yesterday afternoon by Aerolíneas Argentinas, Austral and Lan Argentina. Some delays are expected today due to the backlog in flights.

After yet more days of disruption this weekend, flights have resumed at Buenos Aires’ domestic and international airport. The airline LAN has flights operating from both airports, and Aerolíneas Argentinas begun their normal service from 8am this morning.

Yesterday, airport authorities decided to instigate a renewed suspension of flights after volcanic ash returned to the region, causing yet more disruption.

This morning a spokesperson for Aerolíneas Argentinas and Austral airlines said that “this morning we have implemented total normalcy to our flights leaving and arriving in Buenos Aires airports.”

Disruption however remains for flights to Bariloche and Nequén. These flights will remain cancelled because of the heavy presence of ash both in the atmosphere and on the surfaces of the airports.

An emergency team convened by the Ministry of Social Development met with members of the Mapuche community today in Bariloche.  The team discussed plans for recovery from the showers of ash that the Puyehue volcano poured over the region.

The meeting was attended by the Ministry’s Secretary of Institutional Management and Organization, Sergio Berni; the director of Emergencies of Development, Sbastián Ciatti; and the Mapuche representative, Enrique Melli. The objective of the meeting was to coordinate relief efforts between the indigenous peoples and the Ministry.

The Mapuche community has been severely affected by the eruption, which began on 4^th June. Relief aid, such as food for animals and material to rebuild fallen greenhouses, has been slow to arrive to the more isolated communities of Nequén and Río Negro, leaving agricultural production in a critical state.

The representative of the Mapuche Confederation, Remlú Nanku, told Página 12 that the situation is “distressing.” According to Nanku, in one region, families “lost half of their animals.” This loss comes on top of a “scarcity of water,” brought on by several months of drought.

Indigenous communities have thus far been assisted in relief efforts by the Operative Center for Emergencies of Comallo, a town in the Río Negro province.

It’s Friday again!

And what a fucked up week it’s been. Volcanic eruptions, political scandals and even a visit by Ricky Martin! I’m not sure Argentina can take all of this at once. Of course, half of you readers wouldn’t know since you’re still stuck on the other side of the world, unable to fly to South America because those sissy airlines refuse to fly through a harmless ash cloud.

So, since one half is stuck abroad and the other half doesn’t give a shit about what happens around here and just read this for its comedic value, all I can do is let you know of all the awesomeness(*) going on around here, that you unfortunately will not be able to enjoy.

• 

  Thanks to those bastards at Reuters, I can't use a photo of the Puyehue volcano, so you'll have to settle with one from some volcano from around the world. (Photo/Wikipedia)

  So here’s what you need to know:The Rapture is slowly getting here! After several decades of remaining dormant, the Puyehue Volcano in Chile erupted again this week, pretty much fucking up everybody’s lives. From the bucolic people of Bariloche to the altered residents of Buenos Aires, an ash cloud spewed by the angry giant covered the entire half of the country. Domestic and international flights were cancelled, pissing off a lot of people who were hoping to fly here for something called the Copa America, and crops around Patagonia were ruined under a thick layer of ash. So, the country has been a mess for a week and we don’t even know if the worst is over. I mean, we all know how Dante’s Peak ended. And I’m not talking about that ridiculous “hiding in the mine” thing, I’m talking about that big-ass pyroclastic cloud blowing up shit. So let’s see how it all plays out.

• Oh, by the way, President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner gave a speech on the dangers that the ash cloud poses to your health, and she assured that it’s all psychological. So there, there’s nothing to worry about.

• Argentina launched the SAT-D Aquarius spy satellite today, which will measure the ocean’s salinity. How does that help? I have no idea, but the government put up a whole show this morning with President Fernandez de Kirchner acting as a host,  a situation that brought us many laughable moments, like when she started freaking out about an “unexpected explosion” during the launch, while the guys at NASA overseeing the launch scratched their heads, wondering what the fuck she was freaking out about. Congrats, though, Argentina!

• A garbage men strike once again affected Buenos Aires this week, which meant we had to put up with an awful smell and some big-ass flies for several days until it was all resolved. What was it about this time? Something about a dead guy? I don’t know. Quite frankly, I don’t give a shit anymore.

• Thinking of expressing your support for your favorite politician but can’t come up with an original way to do so? Well, think no more! Just do what a Neuquen government official did a week before their mayoral elections: soft porn! 40-year old Alejandra Oehrens decided to attract attention to her Facebook page in support of the opposition’s candidate by having these photos taken of her in a school girl dress. So there you have it. Embarrassing AND adorable (and gross).

• Remember last week’s big announcement about the Metrobus? That new, safe, fast, clean, transportation service that takes people from Palermo to Liniers in the blink of an eye? Yeah, well, it was involved in two traffic accidents this week. Good one, Mr. Mayor!

• Manchester City superstar and forgettable singer Carlos Tevez
  

  Coolest guy in the world Carlos Tevez (Photo/Wikipedia)

  returned to Argentina this week to take part in something called Copa America (whatever that is), and decided to pop up at his former cumbia band’s show this week. And you know what? He may be a horrible singer and speak the worst English in the world, but there’s nothing this guy can do to make me dislike him. Maybe it’s the fact that he’s the first one to laugh at himself or something, but I love this guy, even if he plays the sport that shall not be named.

• Formerly straight and currently gay rockstar Ricky Martin visited Argentina and met with President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner and Susana Gimenez (AKA “the white, South American Oprah“). But you see, even though Susana totally seems to get along with “the gays,” she still seemed a bit awkward discussing his sexuality and avoided calling him “a gay,” so she just keep questioning him about “his problem,” which brought criticism from everyone (except Catholics) for her archaic and borderline-insulting comments. It’s alright though, at least she didn’t ask if gay adoption could lead to gay parents raping their child, like TV host Mirtha Legrand did.

• You know how some of you snobs keep saying that you “love Puerto Madero because it’s chic and safe”? Well, let me tell you something: Chic? Please, It’s the biggest nouveau-riche conglomerate in the country.  And safe? Sure! It’s so safe that today, these robbers pulled a Home Alone, ransacked an entire apartment in broad daylight and weren’t even shot! That’s how safe it is.

Have a great weekend, everyone!

Send Adrian your comments, thoughts or tips at adrianbono@hotmail.com or follow him on Twitter at @AdrianBono

(*) = For all you locals, I’m sorry to tell you, there’s no awesomeness going on.