10pm on a Saturday and the train from Retiro grinds to a halt at Beccar station after what feels like an eternity. Only a handful of passengers alight and a few seconds later the train rumbles off towards Tigre. In stark contrast to the city, a certain stillness blankets Beccar, one that resonates within the walls of Casapuente, only a short walk from the station.

A former workshop set in half an acre of tree-lined yard, Casapuente is bar, restaurant, art gallery, music hall and games room all in one. Outside the building huge sculptures made from recycled bottles and ironwork make for an unusual first impression but inside the tiled terracotta floor and earthy décor create a warm Mediterranean-themed sanctuary. Thick cut oak tables and chairs, assembled from various sources, and luxuriously padded sofas fill the floor while paintings and bizarre art installations adorn the walls of swollen plaster.

“You have to come down here to see for yourself how special it is”, said Argentine owner Sebastian Boado, who single-handedly converted the space four years ago. “It’s always evolving. When I first started I had no idea it would turn into what it is today, but that’s all part of the fun.”

Bookshelves laden with board games and novels provide those looking to relax with the means to do so. However, bands and musicians are often invited to perform as well as poets and DJs, so the entertainment is varied. The table tennis and pool tables may appeal to the more active personalities but whether you’re looking for a hidden refuge away from the city or lively cultural scene, Casapuente combines both seamlessly.

“People come to here to get away from the hustle and bustle of Buenos Aires. We put on art and photography exhibitions by local artists so there is a community spirit about the place,” says Sebastian.

The crowd generally appear to be more early thirties than mid-twenties but this is perhaps no surprise given the location. The half an hour train journey from Retiro likely deters those looking for heavy party going. With local residents, art-loving hipsters and pseudointellectuals left, right and centre, the atmosphere remains lively without going over the top.

The kitchen is an extension of the open-plan layout, and passageway into the garden, so revellers are able to view the preparation of their food live and in close up. Whether the chefs enjoy this audience participation is up for debate but they happily converse with those who pass by. A selection of pizzas, cooked using handmade dough, is the mainstay of the menu but other more adventurous dishes are available on the weekend.

You are welcome to eat at any table but be prepared to hustle for the old pizza oven that has been neatly converted into a dining room large enough for four people. The yard beyond the kitchen offers a huge campfire surrounded by benches and further exhibition space. “We have only just opened our doors after two months of renovation work so the joint is looking smarter than ever, trust me, it’s worth the journey down here,” adds Sebastian.

For more information, click here.

Politics is everywhere in Argentina. It might be because everyone is legally obliged to vote, but everybody – from bankers to builders and florists to (rarely found) fishmongers – has an opinion.

It comes as no surprise then, that along the bourgeois streets of Palermo Hollywood, you’ll find a bar dedicated to the most emblematic of political movements – Peronism. On Angel Carranza, a few blocks up from Av. Santa Fé, you’ll find Perón Perón.

The place lives up to its name: It’s an all-guns-blazing tribute to political heavyweight Juan Domingo Perón, and everything that has come in his wake. As is to be expected, Juan Domingo isn’t the only one that dominates the show. His wife, the iconic Eva Perón (who inspires musicals and is still evoked in today’s political posters) takes centre stage with him.

In the middle of the room, a quasi-religious shrine to Evita is complete with old photos, flowers and candles. People leave money in the dish before her to garnish the mock-ceremony.

Cast your eyes to either side and you’ll find yourself swamped with Peronist memorabilia. Old photos of the couple are positioned next to dated newspaper cuttings, labourers’ outfits hang alongside communist-style paintings on the wall and antique objects are strategically placed across the room – an old television set at the entrance and a couple of sewing machines on the bar.

Don’t expect the onslaught to let off when you open the menu either – it’s littered with quotes and references to both the couple and the movement. “Cuando hay hambre, no hay pan duro” it announces – which translates, more or less, into “when the going is tough, don’t be so bloody picky”. There are ‘Saint Evita’ empanadas with a price tag of $18 for two and a sandwich called ‘El Capitalista (de cerdo)’, perhaps not coincidentally made with pork.

Everything here is a reference or a little in-joke. It’s slightly disconcerting having the recently deceased ex-president, Néstor Kirchner, staring out from the menu into the distance, but it goes with the territory.

The walls are filled with the graffiti of previous customers; “My cause is the people’s cause and my flag is the country’s flag” one reads, “Perón is from Racing [football club]” reads another, slightly less serious. Little of the wall is left unadorned.

The bar also makes its own beer and wine – Peronist beer and wine of course– at a brewery in the Mataderos neighbourhood. The blond beer, called Lady Gaga (sorry Evita) is fruity and flavoursome. It might be Peronist but it’s not particularly populist at $26 a pint, but then, tasty beer never comes cheap. At $2 more than the price of a pint of Quilmes, it’s definitely worth it.

The bar itself is light and bright and there’s plenty of space. The tables are wooden and colourful seat covers liven-up the chairs. Did Juan Domingo Perón love psychedelic pink and yellow seat covers? Who knows – but the owners of the bar obviously do. And it works – the vibe in the bar is fun and unpretentious.

There’s more than enough to keep your senses occupied. A fragment of one of the ex-president’s speeches will likely make it onto the musical playlist but, importantly, it doesn’t take itself too seriously. The tongue-in-cheek element to the bar makes the barrage of partisan political memorabilia much more palatable. The owners however are serious Peronists, so you shouldn’t be surprised to see political players rubbing shoulders with tourists on the hunt for all things Evita.

All in all, it’s a perfect place to go for a drink and soak up a bit of Argentine history. But watch out, after a few beers, you might leave staggering a little to your left, or maybe your right – it is a Peronist bar after all, you can never be too sure.

Are you a cocktail lover with the lust to explore different bars? Perhaps you’ve been going to places that make you choke every time you sip your drink? Or maybe you are sick of Malbec, Fernet or Quilmes and want to broaden your alcoholic horizons?

Making a good cocktail is nothing short of alchemy: it’s about turning raw ingredients into divine nectars that will sweep our senses and turn an alcoholic event into a fantastically pleasant one, with a touch of glamour. Here are five places which are sure to bring you the ultimate cocktail experience.

Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161. Open Monday to Friday from 7pm, Saturdays and bank holidays from 8pm.

This is an established bar that has it all: it combines divine award-winning cocktails with deliciously tasty food, a great atmosphere and an impeccable service. Tucked away on the first floor of a building in busy Retiro, you would be forgiven for walking past without noticing it.

The long, orange-lit bar is inviting while the relaxing lounge is separated from the dining area. If you’re a smoker, make your way there before the end of the year, when the glass walled smoking section will close. Their cocktail Santiago Goes to Chicago won this year’s Bacardi Legacy Cocktail but their list also features 16 other beverages which were invented by their established team of experienced barmen. The selection of martinis is wide, with classics like cosmopolitan and apple martini, but also six variations of the mojito and also variants of daiquiri, negroni cocktails and sour beverages. Their wine list comes in an iPad (in the restaurant area) and make sure to tuck into some of the beautiful food – it’s to die for!

Cocktail Price Range: $33 to $45

Tip for the reader: Patan Vidal plays live jazz between 7pm and 9.30pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays Fridays and Saturdays DJ Pablo Bettencourt shakes up the atmosphere.

878 Bar, Thames 878. Open every day from 8pm.

878 has an intimate, yet elegant feel to it. Brick walls combine with leather sofas, wooden seats, candlelit tables and a bar which features inbuilt strips of light. Yes, this place is all about the detail. 878 is another adopter of the iPad carte du vin, but it’s the cocktail menu (and its variety of quality whiskeys, possibly the biggest in Buenos Aires) that impresses the most. The choice is infinite, from the common mojito to more intricate combinations. Their most popular beverage is Refresco N˚1, a sweet and sour fruity drink made of sake, lime, passion fruit and herbs. It originally came from the famous Gaucho Grill restaurant in London and it’s smooth and easy to drink. If you’re looking for something a bit more exotic, Cherry El Spicy is a sexy drink that gets your whole palate dancing with pleasure.

Food here is good value for money and some waiters speak English. The clientele is pretty wide-ranging as people from 25 to 80, Argentines and expats, mix together. There’s also a secret bar, hidden at the end of the long black corridor where the toilets are, which is perfect for office Christmas parties or more intimate rendez-vous.

Cocktail price range: $35 to $80.

Tip for the reader: 878 is more popular on Fridays and Saturdays, but these are not necessarily the best nights. Wednesdays and Thursdays bring a more chilled out crowd and your wait to be served won’t be as long.

Olsen, Gorriti 5870. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 12pm and Sunday from 10.30am.

This is the perfect cocktail bar for the summer because of the long outdoor courtyard featuring cascading wall plants and an open plan indoors. Olsen has a young, relaxed and stylish vibe to it. A polar bear sculpture made by artist Cynthia Cohen hanging from one of the walls gives a hint to what this bar specialises in: Scandinavian food and vodkas. Although they also serve other types of alcohol, their vodka selection is the biggest in Buenos Aires and accounts for around 60 different brands.

Their most popular drink, the mint cocktail, blends mint, passion fruit and Absolut vodka. It’s like a Slush Puppie but dangerously lush, as you can’t feel the (high intake of) alcohol and it is set to ease the heat. Another good bet is the Pink Flamingo, made of Absolut Ruby Red, grapefruit, cucumber and Cointreau. Contrary to all the others in this top 5, at Olsen they do not serve off the menu drinks. However, for those not accustomed to vodka cocktails, they have a combination of five canapés and five vodka cocktail shots (the 5+5) which is sort of a taster’s option.

Cocktail price range: $35 to $110.

Tip for the reader: Go early or book ahead (4776-7677) as it can get pretty crowded on weekends. Their Sunday brunch is a heavenly cure for hangovers ($30 to $90).

Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658. Open Monday to Saturday from 8.30pm.

Thick majestic golden doors open up to find leopard printed carpet, an oval shaped bar, luxurious floral arrangements and a black velvet curtain, which separates the bar from a dinning dining area. Make no mistakes about it – Casa Cruz is classy.

They are mostly famous for their wine selection (you will find a floor to ceiling glass window with over 2,000 bottles of around 300 high-quality wine labels at the end of the dinning dining area). Yet, their cocktails are nothing short of superb. Drinks are served at the right temperature in the finest glassware, mixing the best ingredients.

This season we dare you to try their signature Cocktail Noel, a summery drink which combines an in-house blend of Smirnoff Black and fresh cucumber, ginger liqueur, apple juice and a splash of lime. If you’re more into sweet cocktails, the old fashioned Jill’s Sin is the passion fruit blend for you.

Their crowd is mostly made up of 35-year-olds and upwards who come looking to consume a first-class product and appreciate it.

Cocktail price range: $38 to $80

Tip for the reader: If you come here on a date, try cocktail Ricardo. It mixes Jägermeister, fresh tangerine and Ginger Ale, bringing that toothpaste + alcohol taste to a whole new level. It will give you the fresh breath you need to get lucky.

Doppelgänger, Av. Juan de Garay 500. Open Tuesday to Friday from 7pm and Saturday from 8pm.

So maybe you’re not so much into the glitz and glamour and prefer your old-school classic cocktails, perhaps with brands you might not be able to find in Argentina, such as the Chartreuse Vert, Parfait Amour, Golwasser and Byrrh. If that is the case, Doppelgänger is there for you. A stone-throw away from Plaza Dorrego, this cocktail bar has a raw, simple look but there’s nothing simple about their drinks. Here, cocktails are a science in which even the quality of the ice and how fast it melts is a concern. Their mission statement is to serve quality classics, the “long lost” drinks from the 50s and 60s.

Their specialty drink, the Old Fashion, is made of bourbon whiskey, a syrup made of sugar and angostura bitters, an orange slice and, to top it all, a cherry. It’s a unique drink in that each sip you take, a different flavour invades your mouth: from the bourbon burning sensation, to a pleasantly wooden taste and then the sugary finish. You can poke on the orange depending on how tangy you want your drink.

Bartenders are happy to attend if you don’t like or don’t know much about cocktails. They will ask about your personal preferences and then serve something which they think will be up to expectations. And if you don’t like it, you won’t get charged.

Most of their customers are Argentines with only a few expats occasionally, so come in and mingle!

Cocktail price range: $32 to $67.

Tip for the reader: This is a place for cocktail lovers, so don’t go there expecting to get wine, beer or a fizzy drink because you simply won’t find them.

John is the face behind, and hands serving, at the celebrated Soho haunt Magdalena’s Party, a bar-resto-club as famous for its cheap cocktails as its legendary California Burrito. Having moved to Buenos Aires three years ago from the US, he decided to fufill a lifelong ambition to open his own eatery, and has been working on it with his five best friends ever since.

How did you wind up in Buenos Aires?

I moved here three years ago with an argentine friend to work on our web development company, that’s my main business. My family emigrated from Vancouver to the US seven years ago, and I moved to San Diego, to start working in healthcare and website design. We started working with someone here in Argentina, and then I decided to split the company, I went one direction, he went the other direction. So I came here.

Had you been to Argentina before?

I’d been to Argentina twice, and I loved it. I’m done with the US, I’m totally over it. I never felt at home there, it was actually really easy for me to leave and I thought fine, I packed my bags, moved down, the company grew… Some of us are Argentines, though we get a lot of expats, kind of like The Argentina Independent, a lot of expats coming in to do internships.

And how did Magdalena’s party come about?

I’ve always wanted to have a bar or a restaurant, that was like, my dream, and then about a year ago a good buddy of mine, who I met when I got here, we were always like hey, one day we have to open a restaurant, and then we decided a year ago let’s just do it! So we opened in January.

The idea was to open something where we could do what we wanted. We felt that generally in Argentina the service is quite poor, we just wanted something where you could kind of feel at home, with cheap drinks- people here charge a lot for drinks as Argentines don’t drink a lot, so we were like why not make cheaper drinks, to make it more accessible to everyone? And for expats on a budget, it won’t be a problem. Cocktails for $25. We wanted it to be fun and cool, really high quality food and drink, lots of options at the bar, live music, live djs. We like it that people can stumble on in, meet the bartenders, have a chat.

How did you decide on the food?

All of our food I would say is generally US inspired. I mean, for me, coming from Santiago, all the food is southern California style, or Mexican- our tacos for example are Tijuana-style tacos, or from northern Mexico the fish tacos…now we’re doing California surf n’ turf burritos, which is the most southern Californian Santiago thing you could ever eat, it’s only found there. We wanted to bring that home cooking vibe, you know, good quality cooking, good prices. We’re not an organic restaurant but we generally make everything in the house- our hot sauce, our tortillas- there’s a lot of things that we make ourselves, where others would just go out and buy it. We wanted to be more natural.

Do you get more expats or argentines in the bar?

Our get-go from the beginning, what I think makes us unique, is that we always wanted to be fifty-fifty. We don’t wanna be a bar only catering to backpackers and tourists, because then you’ll just be another expat place in the middle of Argentina. We wanted it to be a place where people could come by and meet people, where porteños could meet Americans.Two of the partners are Argentine, Belgrano born and bred, and then it’s my sister and I and Teddy who’s American- we are fifty-fifty in the partner side, we wanted to be fifty-fifty on the bar side. That was one of the original concepts of the bar. We try very hard not to go one direction or the other. If we feel we’re leaning too much on the argentine side we’ll push up promotion of the american side.

And what sets you apart?

Brunch- we thought actually, you know, there isn’t really a good brunch out there, and not a brunch like a nice piece of bread with smoked salmon or whatever, I mean like a greasy american diner kind of meal that’ll cure your hangover. That’s our bid with brunch, we’re catering for the kind of person looking for a hangover cure. For fifty pesos we do a bloody Mary and a brunch meal, you walk out of here and you feel great.

What are your picks of the menu?

My personal favourite for brunch is the Cali-coast, which is something unique. It’s like a crepe slash omelette, Mexican style, stuffed with salsa and guacamole on top, it’s the ultimate hangover cure. And then for dinner, I mean the California burrito’s my favourite, we’re still perfecting it! My favourite drinks here..? We have two, we make an ice tea, chai flavoured with an infused vodka, it’s not on the menu. Its called the vodka ice tea. It gets you really drunk as you can’t taste the vodka and it’s delicious. We also have a vodka infused with chilli pepper.

Why Palermo soho?

I think Palermo soho has the onda that we want. It’s not as new as Hollywood, it’s central to everything, the buildings are older. Recoleta is too claustrophobic for me.

How long will you stay in Argentina for?

I’ve kind of made the decision that Argentina is the place I want to stay and live, and now I’m kind of making the steps in order to make that happen.

What do you like so much about it?

I don’t get bored here, there’s always something changing, always something new, and I found that the States was quite boring- the organisation, everything being so structured, the traffic… I live in Palermo, I walk to work, everything is right here and easy to get to, there’s always something on. I never get bored.

I like the lack of organisation in Buenos Aires- the chaos. The security doesn’t bother me like it does other people, or the bad sidewalks… you know like dogs shitting all over the sidewalk. The things that bother people the first time they come here don’t really bother me. A lot of the stuff were used to in the States feels quite sterile in comparison. And that’s what I love about here.

If you were to live anywhere else, where would it be?

If I didn’t live in Buenos Aires I would…hmmm… that’s when you know you want live somewhere, when you can’t think of anywhere you’d rather live! I’m good here!

It is well known that Buenos Aires is a nightlife jewel. Portenos and foreigners alike pack up the city’s bars and clubs, pretty much any day, any time. Although I enjoyed spending my first few months discovering fancy bars of Palermo, Recoleta and San Telmo, when a friend of mine dragged me along to a “secret bar” my perception of Buenos Aires nightlife was about to change.

And I am not talking about bars such as 878 or la Puerta Roja, which are very cool but not that secret anymore. I am talking about living rooms transformed in bars, about conceptual bars, about New York style speakeasy bars –you know those underground bars during prohibition in the United States- I am talking about very cools bars that are unique to this very cool city.

Here is my top 5 selection.

1. La Ferona Social Club

On a corner of Juan B Justo, separating Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho, there’s a big white colonial-style house. You’ve probably walked pass by without even noticing it. But when night falls, an underground party takes place in this very house. Ring the bell and wait for the owner to open. Two friends who decided to make a bar in their living room. And that’s exactly what it is. Go up the narrow stairs where you will get to a first room, a dark lit living room with a piano where usually the owners and their friends hang out. Continue you way up and you will get in the main room. Suddenly feel like you are in east London again. Funky chairs, tables and an old carpet decorate the room. Pictures of the rolling stones, of Jimmy Hendrix and the two owners are hung-up. Some people are sitting down having a home-made meal; two well-dressed girls are dancing to the music, usually jazz music with a twist of salsa, funk and some rock thrown in there. Most of the people are outside, on the roof terrace, lit with multicoloured lights, warm even on a winter day. A bit further, in the room behind, is the bar, with cheap drinks and good cocktails. Here is the place where people mingle and you’ll probably bump into up-and-coming musicians and artists. Go to La Ferona on a Thursday or on a week-end and make sure to come quite early as the doors remain closed when it gets packed-usually after 2am.

In Palermo. For more information, click here.

2. Dudui

Everyone who rings this doorbell will instantly feel at home. DUDUi’s amiable Dutch proprietors (Coen and Jurriaan Meischke) believe that “the customers are the soul of a bar.” There is a cool essence, a mix of exuberant and comfortable atmosphere when you first walk in. Dudui is located in a renovated house in the vibrant neighbourhood of Palermo Hollywood. The ambiance invites spontaneous, carefree conversation, as jazz or electronic plays in the background. The main attractions in here are the cocktails, simply delicious and sophisticated. Embark on a voyage of senses with the Hot Lolita (gin, chili syrup and grapefruit), the DuDui (vodka, Martini Bianco, Hesperidina, kiwi, lemongrass and lemon) or the unusual Trámites (gin, Cointreau, lime, grapefruit, passion fruit and cardamom). You can also enjoy your drink under the stars on the terrace. But it is also more than just a meeting point, with exciting activities such as art exhibitions, music shows, bartender course, tango classes, wine tasting and more. Activities begin at 7pm and are welcome to everyone.

In Palermo. For more information, click here.

3. Frank’s Bar

Walk down this quiet street of Palermo and stop at the number 1445. There should be a big black metal door, with no sign. Ring the bell and you’ll see two eyes appear through a bull’s eye “Do you have an invitation?” It’s ok if you don’t; they’ll let you in, at least in the first patio, a garage like brick room, with nothing but a phone booth. Yes you are in the right place. Make your way to phone and lift the handset up. Type in the secret code and the door will magically open. You are now entering Franks, a secret bar inspired by New York and Chicago speakeasy bars during Prohibition era. These were bars that sold alcohol, despite the ban, to their most loyal customers. The relationship struck up from the mutual trust and satisfaction of having a secret treasure. Reminiscent of thousands of movies in Chicago or New York, Franks is beautiful place to have a cocktail. The living room has magnificent chandeliers, a bar and a mezzanine above. The wood, concrete and brick give an elegant but warm feeling. The quality of the drinks is another distinctive aspect of the bar. They argue that all cocktails are based on the golden age of cocktails, using only seasonal fruit and do not use artificial flavours. You will find the best Manhattan (whiskey, sweet vermouth and bitters) in Buenos Aires. Another plus is the sex shop on the right when you come in, with toys, lingerie, accessories, masks and edible oils. Supposedly the best sex shop accessories in Buenos Aires.

In Palermo. For more information click here.

4. Squat House

More than a club then a bar, Squat House is the younger-trendier-dancier of this list. Set in an absolutely beautiful house in Palermo Soho, Squat house is being used sporadically by promoters and clandestine event organisers. The house was abandoned a few years ago, and although it has been refurbished to host these beautiful parties, the feeling of an empty crumbling and run-down place that is a squat remains. On the right of the garden patio you will find the “dance-floor” of the house where the young and the trendy dance away to electronic music until dawn. If it’s too early for that, head to the beautiful bar for a beer or cocktail. Outside there’s a barbecue-sometimes- and a swimming pool-with no water. Upstairs there are some rooms, a lot of empty rooms with neon lights where people sit down to have a cigarette before they head back down to the bar. Make you way to the end of the corridor and you’ll find a terrace, where you can look down on the beautiful garden and the shinning lights of Palermo Soho. Go early on weekends as it can be difficult to get in.

In Palermo. Open from 11.30pm to 6.30am. Free for girls, $30 for guys. For more information, click here.

5. Puerta Uno

Knock a few times on the discreet black door off a busy street of Barrio Chino and you might think you’ve ended up in the wrong place. But the ‘hidden door’ concept relying on word-of-mouth recommendations that is becoming more and more popular in this city has been able to keep a low-key profile here. Once you are in, the street noise disappears. The dimmed lighting and open-air patios make this secret nightspot a buzzing venue for an evening out on the town. The outside patio under candlelight with its comfy chairs and sofas is very enjoyable even on a winter evening. A standard drink menu with a few originals such as the apple-basil daiquiri and the pear martini make for some imaginative drink options. Dinner choices include a selection ranging from pizzas and quesadillas to chicken focaccia sandwiches. Better to make a reservation before-hand.

In Belgrano. Open 8pm-3am Mon-Thur; 9pm-4.30am Fri-Sat. For more information, click here.

While Palermo is not a neighbourhood lacking in bars, there are always new places opening up, bringing new ideas and a fresh approach. Federico Negrete has done exactly this, creating an ‘after office’ night called ‘Exit’, which is hosted in Malta bar. After office nights tend to be filled with people who come straight from the office in their work suits but this is not necessarily the case here.

Hosted in an open, well lit bar, the night focuses on bringing together people as they leave work, providing both a space for them to continue talking business and enjoy themselves at the same time. This is achieved by creating a friendly ambience in a lively bar, while also offering areas to sit and talk.

The idea of the bar is also to provide a space for lesser known artists to present their work. As Fernando rightly points out, “the area in which we are located is very crowded with tourists and it is good to be able to show artwork by unknown artists that dont have much exposure. We want to present art not as a part of some organised exhibition, instead we give the space to common people to show their abilities.” The opening night included a trapeze artist and a performance by swing dancers, alongside artwork on the walls, although every week they hope to bring fresh performances.

The entrance to the bar is livened up by a large painted wall and alternative music to that which is being played inside. This entrance room, lit by large green balls hanging from the ceiling, also provides a place to smoke as opposed to forcing people outside, something which will be appreciated during the coming winter months.

A good selection of food, served in large portions is a tasty way to start the evening, before sitting back and enjoying the shows which are put on. There is plenty of space, including a lounge area with comfy sofas, amongst which the attentive concierges eagerly help everyone to find an ideal seat. The menu is not particularly cheap, but that is not uncommon in Palermo. There are happy hour prices which run from opening time till 9pm and there is no entrance fee.

The owners and bartenders are keen to create an alternative vibe in their bar. Federico explains that “the way we promote our place is by word of mouth, always through friends and acquaintances. This creates a warm and friendly atmosphere, where a lot of people know each other. We want to recreate how it was in clubs a while back, I would say about 50 years ago, when the concept would be that the customer is a partner rather than client.”

Opening in June, every Wednesday, ‘Exit’ is a concept where art can run in “all its diversity” and people can talk business while having a good time.

To compensate the overflow of empanadas, choripan and milanesas that are ever present in Argentina, more and more restaurants and cafes are cropping up with healthier or even vegetarian options in the country of meat. But healthy drinks or alternatives to the popular helado are still fairly new. Enter Smoothie Bar, which opened in February in Belgrano.

Founded by four foreigners – three from the US and one from Ireland – who met a year and a half ago in Buenos Aires, their nationalities definitely were related to the concept. Sean Kapul from San Fransico, explains: “In Europe and the United States a smoothie is a well-known concept which you can find almost everywhere. Here in Buenos Aires, some places do offer something similar to a smoothie, but places that specialise in just smoothies are hard to come by.”

The idea had been around for a while to create something similar – originally, the intention was to create a corner store, with a small bar, where you can buy your smoothie as a take-away. But the concept had to be adapted to take into account local tastes. Sean illustrated: “Since the consumer culture here is more relaxed, with clients sitting down and taking their time, we adapted our concept to that – and this is the result: a space with room to sit down, relax and take your time to ultimately enjoy your smoothie.”

The light space feels very fresh and warm, with classy white bar in the centre and all with tables in the front end, and couches towards the back. Besides the odd bright orange wall, the space is more subtly decorated with little paintings of fruit, a dancing peach here and a couple of green apples there.

Fruit everywhere then, but not only as decoration, also consume! Berry, peach, raspberry, strawberry, banana, mango and the Brazilian açai, are transformed into smoothies like Berrie Bliss, Peach Passion, Sweet Dreams or Frambuesa Fantasia after being mixed with delicious natural frozen yoghurt. All the smoothies the bar offer include at least two and a half pieces of fruits, and with the use of low-fat yoghurt the smoothie can call itself a healthy choice.

Sean added: “Next to our assortment of smoothies we also offer coffee and several plates of healthy food, taking into account that the winter is coming. Also energy, metabolic, protein and vitamin shots to give people an extra boost to ‘survive’ the colder months, are on the menu. In general we are trying to listen to the people’s taste, but on the same time we always do this on our own way, to stay with our formula.”

The bar currently caters to mostly Argentine clients, but the public is very varied, and everyone is welcome. “From little kids who just come out of school and want a smoothie on their way home, to an elderly couple who are taking their time, mothers who are going to the market or a student who takes its laptop inside to study for a bit here,” Sean said.

Due to the success, there are some ideas to expand the concept by creating more Smoothie Bars in town, but there are no concrete plans. Sean explained: “We first want everything to works perfectly and we are not just going to open another store, since we want everything to be of the highest quality. That is what makes all the difference; we won’t be satisfied witha marginal product, we want top quality!”

Of course we had to check if this is all true and I can confirm; it has been a while since I had a smoothie like this: delicious!

For Sean, the key to success for Smoothie Bar is easy: “You just need a good product and a creative way to implement it. We think the concept of a smoothie – where we only use the highest quality products – is perfect. Besides, we truly believe in the product and in the concept and that makes it work!

Magdalena’s Party in Palermo Soho is a little over a month old, but it is already finding its way into the hearts of Argentines and expats alike. Due to it’s azure exterior and lack of signage people have begun calling it the “blue bar”.

With five owners: siblings from Canada, a guy from the US and two Argentines, the bar has an eclectic feel – a harmony of different ideas that combine to make a cool-comfortable atmosphere.

Inside there are cozy chairs in the corner by a candle-filled fireplace, communal tables and lots of standing room. Not a place for a romantic date – a great place to meet people. The bar flyers even have a notes section on the back, perfect for jotting down personal information from the cutie you just met at the bar.

The hanging light-bulb chandelier at the entrance creates a swanky ambiance that wards off frat party enthusiasts and their beer bongs. The crowd here is more post-university, looking for a good time away from bad classic rock and gravel floors. Let’s call it mature but not afraid to party – the owners are known to pass around free shots to a full crowd.  Live DJs can make for busy weekend nights. Rather than all packing inside, people spill out into the street – creating their own block party.

If you’d like something to make Wednesdays go down easier, Magdalena’s Party has just the thing to kick the midweek blues – weekly wine and whiskey tastings liven up the greyest of hump days. For $50 you sit at one of the communal tables and get a true education in vino or booze. The price includes a big picada to share, and generous pours to taste. The sommeliers change consistently, bringing new wine and spirits every week. Make sure to call in for a reservation, as there is limited seating. There are two rounds of tastings – the first at 9pm followed by a 10.30pm.

For the wine tasting, expect three to four wines, and experts who will provide you with enough anecdotes to impress your friends. Sitting with eight other participants talking about the vino and getting to know each other, makes it feel more like a dinner party than a tasting. If you stop there, it’s a classy night out that won’t give you a Thursday hangover.

If you’re looking for a cool night buzz, the whiskey tasting may be more up your alley. Depending on the night, you could try whiskeys from different regions in Ireland and Scotland, or compare other countries’ versions like US bourbon or Canadian rye. You’ll learn when to order “on the rocks” (served with ice) or with water and it turns out chocolate pairs nicely with a good whiskey.

After the tastings you’ll have made some new friends, and should stick around for a unique nightcap. The Magdalena’s Party (organic blueberries, ginger and lemon, shaken with Absolut Kurant vodka and lychee liqour) is their most expensive cocktail at $30. Sound too good to be true? Wait until you read their 8-12pm happy hour special – specific certain cocktails are two for one at $25.

Coming soon is a full food menu which is expected to boast fried-fish tacos, tangy sandwiches and a weekend brunch complete with spicy Bloody Marys. Good prices, a trendy vibe and the promise of taco Tuesdays around the bend – Magdalena’s Party offers something exciting to get you there every night of the week.

This week, Magdalena’s Party are introducing rum into their menu, and will host a wine, whiskey and rum tasting, bringing a Latin vibe to the night.

Arguably the prospect of a bar named after a cricket-like insect isn’t as appealing as it could be but this place is worth looking up if you’re in downtown Buenos Aires and looking for something to get the weekend underway.

Like everything in Argentina Saturday nights get off to an unhurried start, with barflies cluttering the bar and gradually filling up as it gets later and the music gets louder. Things really get going from around 12.30am with DJs and bands playing until the early hours of the morning.

German, a bartender at La Cigale says that idea is that musicians and revellers are “cara a cara” or face to face and gigs are something of an intimate affair upstairs in the live music area. Later the band members mingle with the crowd downstairs.

Marketing itself a touch of Paris in South America the bar claims to make the best Mojito in town and when its founders arrived from Europe they undertook to provide locals and travellers with the best cocktails in Buenos Aires. While that’s a tall order to fulfil, there is no doubt that at the very least they are some of the strongest and most exotic tipples on offer.

As well as a robust selection of wines, beers and classics like Margaritas and Pisco Sours there are also more mysterious offerings like the Latin Lover (Tequila, cachaca, lemon, lime, pineapple), Tiger Milk (Bacardi, horcheta, pineapple) and ‘Be Like Water’ (Baileys, Tía Maria, pineapple, banana).

It’s also worth mentioning that in case you’re brave enough to try a shot named after a cockroach, this is the place to pick up a Cucaracha slammer (Tequila, Tía Maria, contreau)…and the best of luck with that.

Too many cockroach slammers and you’ll probably be wanting to soak up some of the goodness with a little snackette. Luckily there are plenty on offer. The food menu offers a simple selection of picadas and nibbles to share and the kitchen is open late.

Oddly the seating is reminiscent of a train station waiting room and is rather at odds with the old colonial architecture. Other than that La Cigale is an elegant little shindig with deep blue walls, checkered floor tiles and a long sweeping bar topped with under-lit red glass mosaic tiles. A black wrought iron staircase with dark wood banisters curls up to the upper floor and there is a white stone balcony looking down onto the street below for smokers.

Upstairs, plum-coloured curtains and glitter balls suspended over the room with DJs and bands playing make for an intimate gig space in the early hours of the morning.

“We have everyone in here – from 20 to 60-year-olds, there’s a real mixture and muy buena onda,” says German.

Don’t fret if you can’t make it for a Saturday – the bar offers a busy agenda with different vibes on every night of the week except Sunday. Los Lunes están de moda with acoustic sets and local musicians are a good option if you’re kicking your heels on a Monday night, Tuesday is the Noche Frances and Wednesdays are dub nights. Meanwhile if you’re interested in emerging local talent Thursday’s your night to hear new Argentine bands.

With a mixture of local and international clientele, a steam of bands and DJs passing through its doors and cocktails to knock your socks off, La Cigale is a sassy little number – give it a whirl!

A few dozen litres of coffee and a hundred or so medialunas later we have finally reached the end of our Bares Notables series. Each of the 54 has deservedly earned its place on the list but after some tricky soul searching we’ve managed to whittle down a Top 5 absolute must-visit establishments in Buenos Aires. Enjoy.

1. El Preferido, Palermo

Holding its own among Palermo’s chic bars and noisy restaurants, this family-run business has charm, warmth, a hearty menu and a fat slice of character. Whether you’re looking for a quick bite to eat or a sit down meal, El Preferido will provide.

In 1951, Arturo Fernández, the current owner, arrived in Argentina with his family from Asturias, Spain. A year later his father started working at the El Preferido almacen, central to community life and furnishing the neighbourhood with groceries and nick-nacks.

Instead of being swallowed up by large supermarket chains that started cropping up all over the city like other local shops the family moved with the times and transformed the store into a bistro. Today the restaurant is split into an informal, high-tabled, quick eatery with the original interior fittings and a more traditional restaurant in an adjacent room.

In the restaurant tables are covered with red and white table-cloths and large chandeliers glitter above the chattering crowd. Shields with the emblems of old Spanish families decorate the walls alongside photographs and football memorabilia from the waiters’ favourite teams.

Arturo’s family have brought the rich flavours of Asturias to their trade and the menu proffers a refreshing change from traditional parilla fare that is well worth paying for. Large plates of paella, seafood and fish dishes are wheeled out of the kitchen along with vaska tuna, stroganoff sirloin and kidneys in sherry sauce. Other house favourites are robust portions of lentils, meatballs and rice as well as a delicate salmon rosado.

If you have the self-will to save room for dessert, the El Preferido speciality is a thick and luxurious apple pancake. They are made to order with 40 minutes preparation time and worth planning ahead for.

Although the likes of Francis Ford Coppola and Willem Defoe have dropped in from time to time, the place is generally heaving with local clientele and more than earns its popularity.

Jorge L. Borges 2108 Tel: 4774-6585, Monday to Saturday, 8am-11pm, deliveries available.

2. El Gato Negro, San Nicolas

Bored of beige food and bland meals? Argentina is famous for many things, but groundbreaking cuisine isn’t one of them. Luckily for those of you with comatose taste buds El Gato Negro has specialised in exotic herbs and spices since the 1920s and definitely knows its perjil from its paprika.

A warm, nutty smell of spices is striking as you open the door to this well-kept secret and the café sells everything from aniseed to za’taar (middle-eastern herbs, spices and sesame seeds).

It was founded in 1927 by a Spaniard called Victoriano López who settled here after spending 40 years in the Far East and travelling to exotic places like Ceylon, Singapore, Manchuria and the Philipines before setting up shop in Buenos Aires.

López’ son expanded the range of goods, creating his own blends and insisting that seeds and pods be shipped whole and ground in-store to guarantee freshness.

The 1920s are still very much felt in this natty little shop – in the art deco fixtures and large jars of pickled vegetables stacked to the ceiling behind the broad wooden counter. Seating is intimate with small round tables for a cosy tete-a-tete or solitary afternoon reading in the corner.

There is a wide range of coffees with international blends and spices, exotic aromas and punchy flavours like cardamom and café al jinibre (cream, ginger, honey and cinnamon) from around $10. For a refreshing cuppa El Gato offers a fine variety of tea blends and a mouth-watering selection of cakes to indulge every sweet tooth.

El Gato certainly offers bang for your buck – ordinary coffees are available from $6. The cafe also hosts cultural events like concerts and book readings, as well as occasional music performances and public readings.

El Gato Negro is on Av. Corrientes 1669. Tel: 4374-1730 Website: www.elgatonegronet.com.ar. Opening hours: Mon 9am–10pm, Tue 9am–11pm, Wed 9am–midnight, Thur-Sat 9am–2am

3. Las Violetas, Almagro

Once the preserve of the spendthrift gentry and cream of Buenos Aires high society, this beautiful old café – named after the violet beds of neighbouring town house gardens – recently celebrated its125th birthday and is now busy with locals and travelers alike.

As the heyday of the privileged classes that had kept the cash registers ringing began to wane at the end of the 19th century, the café began to lose business. By the beginning of the 1990s the elegant restaurant, with its art nouveau architecture, gilded curlicues, Italian marble columns and Tiffany style windows was semi-abandoned.

Luckily it was named a national heritage site in 13 years ago and it was re-sold and restored to its lofty glory for re-opening in 2001. Parts of the décor, like the stained glass windows and stone floor, are reproductions but much of the original building remains intact.

Today a suitably decadent menu reflects the café’s early days as a luxury patisserie with indulgent chocolate slices, fluffy meringues and rich cakes covered in bright fruit and smooth cream. Las Violetas still functions as a cake shop with a separate entrance for customers on the market for a box of sugary pastries to take away as well as a delivery service for food hampers.

For a ritzy afternoon tea, try the ‘Maria Carla’ selection with crustless sandwiches, cakes, fondants and fresh orange juice. Sadly Argentina’s flagship combination of ham and cheese has weaseled its way into the shortlist instead of cucumber and salmon but otherwise, at $48 and easily refreshing 3-4 people, it’s well worth it.

Meals haven’t quite lost their expensive price tag and become more expensive on weekends and public holidays but you can still pick up a café con leche for about $10 and absorb some of Las Violetas’ old charm.

Las Violetas is open from 6am to 1am, Sunday to Thursday, and 24 hours, Friday to Saturday. Av. Rivadavia 3899 (corner Medrano). Tel: 4958-7387 www.lasvioletas.com

4. Clásica y Moderna, Recoleta

‘Clásica’, as it is known to friends and admirers has established itself as one of the most important and respected booksellers in Buenos Aires since its opening over 70 years ago. Historically a place for prominent intellectuals to give lectures and people to browse a lovingly-chosen book collection, Clásica has only been serving food, coffee, wine and cocktails for the past two decades.

It was opened in 1938 by Francisco Poblet, who emigrated from Spain with the sole intent of opening a bookstore in Buenos Aires. Himself the son of a bookseller, today the store is run by his daughter Natalia, or ‘Natu’. Poblet believed that forming a cordial relationship with the shop’s patrons was paramount to the art of bookselling and should go beyond the impersonal platitudes of clerk and customer.

The store became a nexus of the intellectual community of Buenos Aires. Politicians such as Alfredo Palacios, Mario Bravo, Alicia Moreau de Justo and Argentine president Roberto Ortiz all frequented the store, as did notable writers such as Ricardo Rojas, Roberto Arlt and Alfonsina Storni.

Like most institutions that survive drastic social changes with the passing decades, Clásica had to go through a period of modernization. In the early 1980s the shop became a popular location for book presentations, lectures and cultural meetings. After the restoration of democracy Isabel Allende, Juan José Sebrili, Abelardo Castillo and David Viñas all presented their works to a freshly invigorated population. As these presentations and meetings became more frequent, and Poblet and Natu found themselves providing their guests with drinks and clearing space amongst the bookshelves, they realized that the bookstore had “organically” reached a point of change.

The café’s dark brick walls, exposed ventilation, and dim lighting give it the feel of a bluesy back-alley. Modern art and photographs are in constant rotation on the walls and a high wooden counter top runs in between the two rows of tables in the middle of the room, providing an excellent reading stand while you’re eating.

The lunch menu includes a featured book on the cover with information and reviews inside. While being on the slightly more pricey side of set menus, at $35 – the food is good and fresh. The larger menu pays homage to literary and film greats with salads named after Corázar, Kundera and Neruda and and dishes like the Fellini, Almodovar, Pechuga Kundera, Pollito Woody Allen and Picada Umberto Ecco. Most consist of typical Argentine fare with meat as the feature and greens as decoration and range from $30 to $50.

Clásica y Moderna can be found at Callao 892, one block from the Callao Subte stop. On most nights the the cafe hosts shows of either jazz or tango singers, for information visit: www.clasicaymoderna.com

5. Lo de Roberto, Almagro

Officially called 12 de Octubre, the spirit of Buenos Aires is alive and well in this decades-old bar located just off of Plaza Almagro. In the late afternoons it serves its faithful octogenarian porteño clientele, who drink whiskey, wine and agua con gas while playing cards and chatting. At night, the bar hosts free live music shows, attracting a younger crowd who pack the cosy space from wall-to-wall.

Starting its life as an almacen the café is tucked into a late 19th-century building, founder Francisco Perez opened the dual-purpose joint in 1930, building a loyal clientele and eventually passing ownership on to his two sons, Roberto and Jorge.

Cracked plaster walls reveal unevenly laid brickwork, an ancient iron fan sits majestically in a corner, opposite a manual cash register; black-and-white photographs of famous Argentines and friends of the bar clutter the walls and thousands of dusty brown bottles line the high shelves.

Estében explains that the collection of the bottles is a kind of tradition, serving as mementos of times passed: “They’re from the time of my grandfather and my old man. They’re not for drinking. And when my children run the bar, there will be ones from today,” he says.

At night, the 12 de Octubre comes alive. On Tuesdays through Saturdays, the bar hosts live music, generally local tango or classic Latin acts, featuring a guitarist and a singer. One favourite performer is the guitarist Lucas Ferrara. Music begins at 11.30pm, with the most established acts playing last, usually winding up at 3am. All shows are free, and the bar fills up early.

These nightly concerts are part of why the bar has been dubbed “Boliche de Roberto”. They have the power to transform this small room on a sleepy block into a sweaty hotspot, with patrons switching from wine to fernet and coke as the night progresses.

12 de Octubre is located at Bulnes 331. Open Mondays from 6.30-9.30pm; Tuesdays-Fridays.