Peru Beach in Acassuso

If the name Peru Beach strikes you as a place unlikely to exist so close to the city of Buenos Aires, you might be surprised to learn about Peru Beach Sporting Club, a water sports mecca that quietly flourishes on the banks of the River Plate in Zona Norte.

Combining “sports and fun with a solid service infrastructure”, the club was set up over 20 years ago and has since firmly established itself as a favourite destination for infrequent day-trippers and regular sportsmen alike. But occupying a slice of murky riverbank starting 300m from the water’s edge and extending 100m out across it, don’t come expecting to find white sand, rock-pools and surf.

Two ways of getting there offer either the more scenic or the non-scenic route. The non-scenic route starts from Retiro station, where you simply hop on a train heading towards Tigre. Trains run regularly, every ten minutes, and a return ticket costs a hardly unreasonable sum of $2. After about half an hour, you reach a stop called Acassuso, and from there it’s a 15 to 20 minute walk straight down Peru street to “the beach”.

The more scenic route requires taking either a bus or a train to connect with the Tren de la Costa, which leaves from Maipú station on the outskirts of the city. Tickets are slightly more expensive at $32 return but it’s worth it for the view of the water and, most importantly, the fact that the train drops you at Barrancas station, right next door to the complex.

Admittedly, it’s not the simplest of journeys, and the logistics of taking a family there on a hot summer’s day could make the experience taxing to say the least, but once there you’ll find it worthy of the effort.

The wide range of facilities onsite includes a gym, several Astroturf football pitches, hard tennis courts and a covered roller hockey pitch, and although it’s a club, there’s no membership fees and pitches can be rented by the hour making it an attractive option for casual visitors.

A skate school offers lessons in a custom-built skate park for $60 per hour including the use of a helmet and board, but if you already know your stuff, the park opens on weekends from 1pm to 5pm and passes cost $20. Adjacent to the school sits an impressive climbing wall that spans 10m across and stands 20m tall. With over 70 possible routes to the top, is advertised as the country’s most important, but for many, the main pull of Peru Beach is being out on the water.

Windsurfing Lessons at Peru Beach

On a recent Thursday, a good number of people, aged between 14 and 40, were out on the water windsurfing and kite surfing solo or under the guidance of expert instructors. A popular activity even in miserable rainy weather, you can take five-hour windsurfing courses in groups of up to four people, or eight-hour kite surfing courses alone or in a pair. The prices for windsurfing decrease from $500 for an individual, to $400 each for two people, $350 each for three, to as little as $300 each for four, making it an ideal group activity, whereas you can expect to pay as much as $1600 for a private kite surfing course, dropping to $1100 each if you can convince a friend.

Anyone keen to explore the banks of the river under their own steam can choose to hire kayaks at a cost of $50 per hour for a single, or $70 per hour for a double. But don’t underestimate the popularity of these more laid-back activities. Plenty of people take to the water while their friends or family are out chasing an adrenaline rush, so Leandro, a windsurfer and resident instructor at the school, advises booking in advance when the weather is good.

You’ll find the food limited but reasonably priced, and with a menu mainly consisting of standard bar snacks like salads, sandwiches and milanesas, as well as ice creams and smoothies, you can eat there for about $35. The bar offers a selection of cocktails that can be enjoyed from a deck chair on a warm summer evening, or simply sat on the grass overlooking the water.

The atmosphere, part bar/part café/part viewing platform, was relaxed and easy on a rainy day with the indoor seating areas providing welcome shelter from the cold. True to their promise, the service was also good and the staff friendly.

Whilst Peru Beach wasn’t specifically designed with families and young children in mind, it certainly fares well with them. But if you’re going in search of a typical seaside experience you’ll be disappointed for several reasons. Firstly, despite calling itself a “beach”, you won’t find yourself by the sea, secondly there’s no sand, and lastly you can’t swim.

Expectations aside, that’s not the kind of experience Peru Beach caters for. Very much an oasis of extreme sports in a place that would otherwise be anything but extreme, something among the range of activities on offer is enough to set even the most hardened of adrenaline junkies’ hearts racing. And for those more inclined to spectate than join in, it’s also a peaceful place to spend an afternoon free from the hustle and bustle of the city: cocktail in one hand, book in another.

When Argentines tire of the city and the sweltering heat, where do they go? Whether you are a posh jet-setter, outdoors enthusiast, or just someone looking for a quiet place to sun on the beach, the southern hemisphere has you taken care of.

Punta Del Esteby (Photo: Zhu)

Although this particular beach resort town makes its home in Uruguay, the trendy and glamorous of Buenos Aires like to make this city the key to their summer getaway, particularly in the first weeks of January. Few areas rival this once quiet fishing town in glitter and glitz as it has now become a staple in the Argentine vacation diet packed with shopping, innumerable restaurants for a night out and casinos for afterwards.

Like its Argentine counterpart, Mar del Plata, Punta del Este becomes jam packed with tourists and Argentines, yet despite the sheer number of visitors every year it still manages to provide a ritzier experience than its doppelganger.

Exclusive nighttime parties and the beach are the main things on visitor’s itinerary here, however various attractions continue to treat tourists. From Faro de Punta del Este, the lighthouse that dates back to 1860, to the docks, where nightly walks taken can bring in a view of harbour lights and ships pulling in, there is more to be had than nightlife, dining after the sun sets on a day spent at the beach.

A ferry and bus ride from Buenos Aires will get you to Punta del Este in a matter of hours. But be warned – the boats that make the trip across the Río de la Plata sell out over the holidays and early January, so book your ticket early to avoid disappointment.

Pinamar Dunes (Photo: Luis Argerich)

The more modest sister of Mar de Plata, Pinamar offers beautiful beaches and lush pine forests — a polar change from the concrete forests of Buenos Aires. A familiar vacation spot for porteños, it just known enough by tourists make this gem a few hours from Buenos Aires a cool destination when the weather turns hot. Pinamar is just one of a handful of seaside beach towns along this particular strip of Argentina’s Atlantic coast, and is an escape from the crowds that flock to Mar de Plata each summer.

The slightly less busy beach city hosts beautiful and tranquil resorts for those who seek luxuries found in the form of many rich seafood and grill restaurants, a shopping centre and nightlife.

Though it has a reputation as a ‘resort town’, Pinamar has something for everyone — some mild researching on hotel and travel sites can land you with lovely experience for less. Aside from the shops and the shells, Pinamar’s famous forests and dunes have many tours by foot, ATV or even horseback rides — building your own Pinamar experience couldn’t be better provided for.

Information on hotels, activities, tours and restaurants. www.welcomeargentina.com/pinamar/outings.html

Punta del Diablo (Photo: Libertinus Yomango)

Another of Uruguay’s beach destinations, Punta Del Diablo is worlds apart from its southern sister, Punta del Este. Here you are more likely to find backpackers sporting Havaianas camping than soap stars in heels staying in exclusive mansions. Its name may make it seem barren, dry or simply no different from the heat you’re currently experiencing in Buenos Aires — however, this beachside town is nothing like an inferno.

Punta Del Diablo is known for its plethora of beaches and excellent surf atmosphere. The once-sleepy fishing village is a traveller’s dream — complete with fish markets, horseback tours, cabins for rent, hostels and villas galore.

Though not as quiet as it used to be, Punta del Diablo is still a nice change of pace, and there are secluded treasures to be found.

Spending a day on the beach, or evenings seeking out a devilishly delicious place to eat. While there are some more historical or touristy sights worth mentioning like the Saint Teresa Fort, dating from 1762, or the Black Lagoon (Laguna Negra) which is a prime location for bird watching – Punta del Diablo is what it is; a chilled beach town getaway.

For more information visit www.portaldeldiablo.com.uy

Las Grutas (Photo: Michele Molinari)

The aforementioned beach destinations of Uruguay and Argentina receive flocks of visitors every year, but Las Grutas, the cliffside beaches of the Río Negro province in Patagonia, appeal to a different kind of crowd.

You won’t find chic high-rise hotels or high-end shopping despite a casino here and a tourist knick-knacks there, but that doesn’t stop Argentines from heading south to these beaches on an annual basis. Everyone in Las Grutas is enjoying mate – or its cold, refreshing juice counterpart tereré – with friends or sharing an ice cream with the kids on the beach.

Much more family beach town than resort getaway, the dusty streets of Las Grutas play host to innumerable hostels, hotels and beach houses — not to mention waterfront restaurants upon the cliffs.

The perfect beach for sand volleyball, exploring the tide pools as the sea retreats for the day, or watching the sunrise over the Atlantic after a long night out, Argentina style. Share some calamari and a Quilmes to cool your tan, enjoy the view from the cliffs and the colorful parrots that live in them — just some of the many simple pleasures of Las Grutas.

For more information visit www.interpatagonia.com/lasgrutas

Entre Rios (Photo: Guillermo Salvo)

Entre Ríos is the answer for trying to please your entire vacation group. The riverside beaches are calmer than Punta del Este and Pinamar, and there are also hot springs, lakes and forests thrown into the provincical mix.

Not hugely sought out for its shops and sunbathing spots, Entre Ríos is a quiet answer to bustling city life. But the experiences that are to be had in the province satisfy a myriad of tastes as unique and different as they come.

Hot springs with their healing qualities are found dotting the province from La Paz to Federación — making them popular destinations for a more local crowd. And Colón hosts several beaches for sunning, a casino and even a couple areas for those who love water sports. There are also many lakes in the region, as well as historical stops along the way like San José Palace, home of modern Argentina’s first president, Justo José de Urquiza.

Away from the limelight, the Entre Ríos region of northeastern Argentina draws in its own crowd with alternative beauty and modest charm.

For information on the hot springs, visit www.termasdeentrerios.com

Photo by Beatrice Murch

La Paloma’s empty beach

After hitting the Argentine beaches during the summer, I was left craving an un-crowded, less full-on scene; preferably with good surf breaks and less focus on the body beautiful. I needed a remote stretch of sand to collapse on in an un-self-conscious heap and wile away a weekend reading, dreaming and feeling the last hits of the summer sun on my skin.

Argentina is not renown for pristine and tranquil beaches: Mar del Plata is fun and energetic, but during the summer is certainly not a lazy weekend getaway. However, travel books and friends promised me that Uruguay would provide me with just the tonic that I was after. So, bypassing the well trodden destinations of Colonia, Montevideo and Punta del Este I headed north with my tent and boyfriend in tow and settled down for a stay in La Paloma.

La Paloma, ‘the pigeon or dove’, was named by sailors and fisherman, who saw the shape of a bird in the waves and rocks along the town’s coastline. It is located 250km from Montevideo and door-to-door about seven hours from Buenos Aires. It takes a bit more planning than a quick day trip to Colonia, but it is definitely worth the extra effort. The long stretches of unadulterated beach with a slightly ‘rough and ready’ feel to it, were a welcome sight. The contrast with a visit to the Argentine resort of Pinamar three weeks earlier, couldn’t have been greater. La Paloma lacks trendy beach bars, flashy restaurants, smart hotels and perfect pert brown bottoms on every inch of sand. In spite of or perhaps because of that, it has an abundance of charm. Peace, solitude and time away from the hubbub of the city is what La Paloma is all about.

Photo by Beatrice Murch

La Paloma at dusk

The main town has a population of around 5,000, but there was little sign of the residents along the main streets of the town and the ocean paths. Honestly, the town is a bit shabby and could do with a lick of paint in parts, but if anything that adds more to its appeal. The resort has clearly resisted pampering to the tourist trade and in doing so has retained an authentic feel that many resorts lose when out-of-towners arrive on mass. There’s a small artisanal market on the road out of town and a sprinkling of souvenir shops in the main drag, but nothing’s in your face or over-the-top.

We opted to camp at Complejo Turístico La Aguada, about a 15 minute walk from the bus station. This huge campsite has 450 pitches spread amongst a shady pine forest and charges $50 for two people and a tent. The site also has some beach huts for hire for $70 per person a night and a hostel which sleeps up to 15 offering special rates for groups. On this particular weekend we camped in relative solitude with 15 or so other campers, allowing us to grab an excellent pitch and feel relatively private. This was a novelty after a summer spent visiting Argentine campsites where you are frequently nose to nose with you neighbours tent and unwittingly subjected to their ‘sounds of nature’.

Photo by Adam Taylor

Complejo Turístico La Aguada

The facilities at Complejo Turístico La Aguada were relatively basic, but every pitch gets its own parrilla, sink, electric point and table. However, it’s not the personal sink that draws people to this site, rather that the ocean is mere minutes away and at night you hear the waves crashing on the beach. Being able to fall out of your tent and stumble to the sea is divine. The beach at La Aguada stretches for miles and for those inclined to surf, beginners and more advanced, there are plenty of waves to go around. There are a couple of surf shops just off the beach and for $120 you can hire a board and wetsuit for the day with surprising ease. When hiring surfing equipment, I’m used to leaving a deposit and being interrogated about my surfing ability: not so in laid-back La Paloma. But, if you need a little more instruction, lessons were advertised. For those that prefer to watch rather than get their hair wet, the local talent was top notch and a delight to watch.

Photo by Beatrice Murch

Cabo Santa María Lighthouse

If you’re more inclined  to take your exercise away from the water, then there are bikes for hire in La Paloma and Costa Azul. Again no deposit was asked for, but with only one brake barely working and a rusty frame, I don’t think the vendor would have been heartbroken if the bike went astray: distance or competitive cycling was not on the agenda. Despite this, cycling is a great way to take in some of the local sights if you get restless. At the edge of the town is El Faro del Cabo Santa María, a beautiful lighthouse that is open to visitors from 8am-8pm for a small fee and, a short bus ride up the coast is Cabo Polonio, known for excellent wildlife viewing including a large colony of sea lions. If walking is more your thing, then the long stretches of sand provide ample opportunities for lazy, serene strolls. As the sun was setting, the beach at La Aguada was empty (bar the odd dog walker or fisherman) and illuminated with a warm, romantic glow. Bliss.

The official La Paloma website claims that during the summer months the town’s population doubles in size. When we visited in early March, just as the the summer season had ended, the place did give the impression that everyone and everything was recovering from one almighty hangover. The only signs of activity we saw while we were there were the surfers and the ever-persistent mosquitos that feasted on us every night. If action is what you’re after then I’d suggest waiting until next year and visiting in February when the town hosts a reggae festival of significant size. If you just want to escape from a city, take some time out from back-packing  and generally just re-charge your batteries, then I’d highly recommend this special little spot on the Uruguayan coast.

More information

From Buenos Aires you can travel to Uruguay by Buquebus: www.buquebus.com or Colonia Express: www.coloniaexpress.com Give yourself plenty of time to catch your connecting bus as the travel times can vary. Buses to La Paloma are available from Montevideo main bus terminal (Tres Cruces). Some companies allow you to book ahead, but it’s possible to turn up and by your ticket on the day – www.trescruces.com.uy/horarios.php

We stayed at Complejo Turístico La Aguada: http://www.complejolaaguada.com/index.html

For more information on the Reggae Festival: http://lapalomareggaefestival.blogspot.com/

Following in the footsteps of Paris, Rome, Tokyo and Berlin, for the second year running, the Buenos Aires government has brought the beach to the city. From 8th January until 28th February, the banks of the Río de la Plata play host to the ‘Buenos Aires Playa’, an oasis for porteños and visitors alike who have not fled the sweltering metropolis of BA in search of respite on the Uruguayan and Brazilian shores.

The government have created two artificial beaches: one in the north of the city, at Parque de los Niños, and the other in the south, at Parque Roca. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am until 8pm, the Buenos Aires Playa offers a programme of entertainment for the whole family: Sand beaches with bright yellow sunshades and beach chairs; live music and book readings; water fountains and showers to cool down from the heat; organised sports activities and inflatable playgrounds for kids; magic and puppet shows; and a scattering of well-stocked food and drink stalls.

Photo by Beatrice Murch

The Buenos Aires beach recreates a beach atmosphere with varied activities for Porteños and foreigners of all ages who can´t make it to the South American coastline this summer.

Each park has coordinators in aerobics, beach volleyball, football and tennis, and every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, visitors can learn new moves at hip hop and salsa dance classes. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, the public will enjoy a varied programme of musical shows, featuring rock tribute bands and Latin dance DJs. All the activities are free of charge.

Branching out from the usual ‘after-office’ tradition of inebriation and self-inflicted morning-after suffering, the Playa hosts week-daily ‘after-office football tournaments’ from 6.30pm: a chance for friends and work colleagues over 18 years of age to let off steam and engage in some healthy competition. This is only available at the northern beach, and participants must register beforehand at the front desk. Rest assured, there is a champion’s board, so your exhausting efforts and triumphs will not go unrecorded.

Above all, the emphasis of the Playa is on the family. There is no shortage of activities for kids and the atmosphere is one of optimum safety. Veronica, who runs the front desk of the beach at Parque de los Niños, stresses the importance of security: “We have lots of guards, and everything is overseen. No alcoholic drinks are allowed through these gates and for the second year running we have experienced no problems.”

Indeed, the Buenos Aires Playa is incredibly well staffed (arguably, overstaffed) and ultra-organised. Upon entrance, you are immediately greeted by a yellow-uniformed assistant who helps you to choose and open a parasol. The atmosphere is pleasant, as the gleeful yelps of toddling porteños mingle with teenagers’ iPods on an erratic shuffle of the latest chart beats. Older citizens in bikinis chat and stroll along the promenade, alongside eager joggers and cyclists opting for a scenic route through the city. Families, couples and groups of friends have brought picnics and make the most of the endless supply of hot water, keeping their mate topped up.

Unfortunately, you cannot go in the water. Although in my opinion, a plunge in the Plata is a positively undesirable prospect, this is nonetheless where the Buenos Aires beach experience is somewhat lacking. Juan, 33, agrees: “I’d really like to be able to swim, or do some water sports,” he says. “It’s lovely here. I’ve been in the office all day, and can’t take enough time off work this year to get out of the city for a proper beach holiday. This is the next best thing, for sure. But for me, the beach means sun, sand and sea, so of course it doesn’t measure up to the real thing. Why are there so many lifeguards if you can’t go in the water?”

However, I feel that this is one of very few qualms. The recliners didn’t recline quite as far as I would have liked, and the abundance of a strange species of yellow ladybird made me squeal on occasion. Although the parking facilities are excellent, access is difficult if you do not have a car. Both parks are near bus stops, but the services are no more frequent due to the summer beach. There are not many signposts for directions in the surrounding area, which may have been useful; and at Parque de los Niños, once inside, there is a substantial walk before you hit the beach itself.

This is nitpicking. The Buenos Aires Playa is a wonderful initiative, in a city which can become overwhelmingly stuffy in the summer months. The activities are well thought out and the city government should most definitely be commended for its provision of great entertainments in a relaxing and safe venue, at no cost at all. Veronica points out that, “last year, thousands of people came to the beaches, and this year they are enjoying it all over again. We have a lot to offer: activities which can be cultural, educational and recreational.” So head over to one of the Playas, crack open a watermelon, and enjoy an alternative experience of the Buenos Aires summertime. Towel not necessary.

The Buenos Aires Playa is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 8pm. Entrance is free of charge. Food and (non-alcoholic) beverages are available at stalls, where fizzy drinks are typically priced at $5 each.

The northern beach is at Parque de los Niños, Nuñez (on the shore of Río de la Plata where Avenue General Paz ends). Accessible by bus 28, or by car through Avenida Cantilo.

The southern beach is at Parque Roca, Escalada and 27 de Febrero. Accessible by buses 91 and 115.

As a complement to this programme, several parks in Buenos Aires have been transformed into solariums with free sun chairs and sunshades, including Parque Las Heras (Palermo), Plaza Naciones Unidas (Recoleta) and Parque Rivadavia (Caballito).

For more information on the Buenos Aires Playa, and for the full agenda and programme of entertainment and activities, check out www.buenosairesplaya.gob.ar. Brace yourself for a barrage of particularly cheesy music on the website, which will stick in your head for the rest of the day.

photo by Laura Trythall

Thirty kilometres east of Punta del Este, the tiny hideaway of José Ignacio nestles in the sand dunes along the coast of Uruguay. Its sole landmark is the lonely lighthouse jutting out into the sea.

A coastal resort now favoured by wealthy Argentines and increasing numbers of jet-setters from much further, for whom nearby Punta del Este has lots its allure and exclusivity, José Ignacio is overrun by the beautiful people from December to February. British author Martin Amis and Colombian singer Shakira reportedly have homes here, while stars of the fashion world Gisele Bündchen, Naomi Campbell and Mario Testino have all frequented the shores.

After experiencing the beauty of José Ignacio over New Year’s festivities, I was keen to return under less hectic circumstances to enjoy all that the quiet fishing village had to offer.

During the holiday period, the beach is packed, restaurants are booked and streets buzz with life into the early hours. But I arrive in José Ignacio with two companions at the end of February to find it recovering from the holidays under a greying, cloudy sky. The few remaining stragglers wander the little streets, happy to be able to enter shops, galleries and restaurants without the crowds of a week or two before. Boutique owners have swapped racks of bikinis for stands of knitted wraps. 

It’s not beach weather, but all roads in J.I. lead to the shore, where a few brave souls can be spotted defying the elements. The lounge chairs and massage huts are unoccupied, but the brisk wind and grey surf make conditions perfect for windsurfers, who have reclaimed their stage to dance to and fro on the waves. 

I find it reminiscent of parts of the rugged British coastline – wide beaches fringed by the rough seas and sea grassed dunes. To many US visitors it is the Hamptons of Latin America. Much prettier and quieter than Punta del Este and its neighbouring villages, José Ignacio has attracted more and more of the summer crowd each year. But considering a Freddo ice cream store has moved in, this fishing village may become the next La Barra sooner than later.

photo by Laura Trythall

The next day we head further east to see what we could find, driving along the coast road, passing new developments and plots of land for sale. But for now it is still comparatively unspoilt, managing to balance the natural environment of dunes, scrubland and bush with the demands of increasing numbers of tourists, developers, investors and architects who will want to fill this blank canvas.

Here, just a few kilometres from José Ignacio, with stretches of green fields leading down to an unspoilt coast, you feel like you’re in another world, far from the niceties of life. This must have been what José Igancio was like 20 years ago. The party reputation of Punta del Este often casts a shadow over the natural beauty of the area.

Inlets along the coast have formed saltwater gullies and lakes, where water-sports schools have sprouted, taking advantage of the shallow water and relative safety from the open sea. The further east the less populated it becomes, giving way to eucalyptus groves and fenced-off tracts of land, much of it offered for sale. Gradually windsurfers on the horizon are replaced by that of herds of cattle, grazing peacefully under the trees with their new calves, as well as some horses and sheep, then the odd gaucho with his dogs.

Twenty minutes down Route 10 we reach the large inlet Laguna de Garzon where the road comes to an end on the shore. Three men are operating a chain ferry across the river to where the road begins again. Two of them guide the cars and passengers on and off the ferry whilst the third operates the small power boat which pushes the ferry along its underwater cable. Next to the ferry is half a bridge, an ugly concrete construction abandoned in mid-flight at some point in the past in favour of the tried and tested three-men-in-a-ferry system. We get quite excited when we are told the ferry is free of charge, so when one of the ferrymen explains he collects foreign coins we are delighted to hand over a few British pence for his collection. He grins at us in thanks.

photo by Laura Trythall

Idyllic life in José Ignacio doesn’t come cheap. The only option is to stay in one of the few exclusive posadas or to rent a house yourself. The restaurants are wonderful and they know it. This makes them expensive. La Huella, as famous as José Ignacio itself, is perfect for grabbing a snack, a cocktail, a three-course meal, and everything in between. But the esoteric restaurant Marismo really steals the show. Tucked away up a little sandy path and with no real sign from the main road, this place longs to be known by a select few. If you’re one of said few, it’s a real privilege. Driftwood furniture is set around a blazing fire under the stars and you can sink your feet into the sand while munching on some of the finest food the region has to offer, from four-hour braised Patagonian lamb to the freshest seafood.

To visit José Ignacio out of season is best. Perhaps it’s the English in me, but I quietly enjoyed being wrapped up against the prevailing sea wind.