Tag Archive | "casino"

Does Gambling Float your Boat?


Photo by Beatrice Murch

Put your money where your mouth is. It’s the ace of spades. Baby I’ve got your money. Diamonds are forever.

The odd suave suit, sweet jazz music, high stakes and intriguing spins of the wheel are what await you at Puerto Madero Casino. That’s if you know how to get there.

According to your Guia T it seems to be ubicado in a very accessible place. You take a walk down to Puerto Madero and just follow the docks along. An old wives’ tale claims that casinos are illegal in the city of Buenos Aires, hence why it is actually floating on a tributary of the Río de La Plata. However, actually finding the way there would certainly put some punters off.

After a good trek along the waterside on a cold autumn’s night, my freezing companions and I finally saw a few flashing neon lights; the glitzy glow of tonight’s entertainment hall we thought. Think again. There are two sets of beaming lights, some came from a mysterious building we did not manage to identify and have not seen since on further visits.

Taking the long route does guide you through a rather pretty little park. A few statues and tidy shrubs made me think about returning for a picnic one day.

Emerging from between trees I eventually prove to my friends that I really am an expert at using the Guia T. The car park is illuminated by lights in the form of playing cards, guiding us a few hundred metres towards the front doors.

I later learned that a free bus leaves from Córdoba and Leandro N. Alem every 15 minutes between 2pm and 2am. Take advantage of this service!

On nearing the entrance the clients appear to be as poorly dressed as I am. Not many sharp tuxedos and ball gowns I’m afraid. On the contrary all I saw were a few flat caps and woolly jumpers. The majority of the punters are on the mature side of fifty. I was happy to discover that there is no dress code involved.

You have to pass through metal detectors at security and if you are carrying a camera it will be confiscated. You leave it reception and collect it later. As always I was full-body-searched, but boarded unscathed. 

Photo by Beatrice Murch

There are four floors to the casino which house over 700 slot machines and 140 gaming tables. On the bottom two there are slots and electronic roulette. You have to insert a minimum of $10 to play, though you can spin for as little as 25 centavos and bet on roulette from $2 on numbers and $10 on 50/50 shots.

On the third it is all table play, with poker, roulette and blackjack on offer. On this floor you play with chips, although you can change them at the cashier desks or on the table. Minimum bets for roulette are $10 on numbers, and $100 on red/black or any low probability equivalent. For blackjack the rules are similar. Some tables allow you to play with as little as $10, but again, there are more expensive tables.

Up top is where the real city-slickers lay their bets. Only dollars are accepted, and minimum entry to the roulette table is US$20. To play poker you need to thrown down US$1000, no more, no less. They play hold’em but with their own twist to the rules. There are no blinds, but each player pays an ante of US$25 per hand. Betting therefore becomes very aggressive. You’ll be lucky to see the flop without paying heavily.

Craps and point and blank are also available on the third floor.

There are bars aplenty and one restaurant. A decent meal will cost you $45, and a snack such as a sandwich or a salad is $25. Drinks are reasonably priced. I bought a half pint of Martini for $10. A coffee is $6 and a soft drink $8. If you’ve been lucky, splash $25 on a cocktail from the wide range on offer. You are free to roam with your beverages and sip at your liquor whilst observing the rich burn holes in their pockets.

Despite being on a boat, you don’t feel like it. Arriving is difficult. Take the free bus or get a taxi. The clientele isn’t exactly in the James Bond mould, but it’s the winning which counts!

The casino is open 24 hours a day and everyone is welcome. It is at Darsena Sur on Avenida A.M. de Justo, across the water from Dique 1.

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BA: Vice City


Photo by Patricio Guillamón

We all have our vices. They’re fun. A whole day of vice is even more fun.

A day spent in Buenos Aires exploring the vices on tap is a day worth your while. Everyone knows the bars and nightclubs are colourful here, but what better way to start a day o’ sin than through the seedy world of gambling.

The first place on this vice tour must of course be a casino. Nothing mixes depravity and adrenalin quite like casinos.

And I began in the Trilenium Casino in Tigre which requires a 40-minute train. (There is a casino in Puerto Madero but it is currently closed due to a major workers’ strike.)

Tigre and boat trips down the Paraná River are lovely, but I must offer my apologies: there’s no room for innocent pleasantries in this story. The casino is as one would expect: big, bright, crass and somewhat disorientating. Perfect.

Everyone knows that casinos, like strip clubs, can be both fun and depressing – fun if you’re on the sauce and don’t see the vague expressions or smell the desperation; depressing if you’re sober and can take note. Trilenium Casino, “The place of fun” as a sign boasts, seemed to be a second home to people who didn’t look like they came for laughs.

Perhaps they didn’t see the other sign encouraging moderation, saying: “Compulsive gambling is prejudicial to your health.”

Best to loosen up with a drink. In case I had forgotten I was in Argentina, the bartender reminded me by claiming he had no change for a hundred pesos, then short changing me by one peso to hoard precious coins.

It’s not the amount; it’s the principle, and I consider myself a man of principles, even though I was currently drowning in vices. I tried to fight for my peso, which is US$0.31, 0.20 Euros or 15 British pence, but I soon realised this place was practiced in this sort of stuff, and I started my gambling already one peso down before even buying my chips.

But the show must go on, so I hit the roulette table. One hour later, with a bit of control and a lot of luck, I was 300 pesos up.

I left happy and with the extra 300 (err, 299) pesos in my back pocket, forgetting all about the gamblers who flouted the moderation rule or the barman who stole my precious peso.

Photo by Patricio Guillamón

My day of sin was far from over as I returned to the capital for a flutter at the horse races. This proved to be a completely different experience; the Palermo Hippodrome is a modern, classy venue. Whereas the casino had a certain feeling of depravity (which is, after all, part of the fun), the atmosphere at the races was relaxed. No alcohol is served at the hippodrome. Compare this to the fact that some casinos serve free alcohol (for obvious reasons) and the distinction becomes clearer.

The races take place every half hour, so most of my time was spent sitting around outside enjoying the weather, the company and the occasional jockey that would ride past on his way to the starting boxes.

I lost on every race. It didn’t matter. I had bet a symbolic amount just to give me someone to cheer for and the pleasure was all in the excitement of the races. One horse who I had backed to win (it had a British father!) was in a three-way photo finish and the buzz of waiting with the crowd to see which horse had nicked it was worth much more than the cash I’d put up.

So when at 10pm the final horse had passed the finishing post and the floodlights had been turned off, I left the hippodrome thoroughly satisfied and with every intention to return. The horses, the excitement of the races, and even the little tables on the grass made it a fantastic night out. Sure, it was gambling, but it was also a laid-back family atmosphere.

A day only has so many hours and an article so many words, so for the people with an unquenchable thirst for vice, here is a little extra:

Photo by Mateo Hinojosa

Sin Bin:

Scoff that pesky deadly sin and dig in at an all-you-can-eat. My personal favourite: Brochette, Av. Santa Fe

Drink yourself into a stupor and get up to all things sinful at the Millhouse Youth Hostel, Hipólito Yrigoyen 959. Possibilities range from merely risqué to sheer bedlam.

Go to Belle pop on a Saturday night. Yes, it’s more alcohol, but sin and booze are definitely from the same gene pool. The cheap alcohol and friendly people (men and women!) can be found at Piedras 728.

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