It’s no secret that the “closed-door” restaurant scene in Buenos Aires is all the rage. Why go to a corner café when you could go inside someone’s home to enjoy food straight from their kitchen? I may be the last person here to jump on the “closed-door” restaurant bandwagon, but now that I have experienced this kind of intimate dining it will be hard to enjoy the “normal” experience again.

Gourmet food at Casa Coupage (Photo by Helena Andell)

Located in an old Palermo home with traditionally high ceilings and a beautiful patio, Casa Coupage is everything you would expect and more when it comes to closed-door dining. There are only nine tables so that the bilingual staff can spend quality time interacting with each customer.

“We like to have so few tables so that each person can have a more genuine experience,” explains owner and sommelier Santiago Mymicopulo.

Santiago showing us the most amazing wines (Photo by Helena Andell)

In contrast to other wine tasting venues, Casa Coupage does not tell clients which wines go with which foods; the idea is that each person has an individual experience with the wine and food. This means the menu is less rigid and can be changed depending on each personal taste – the only restriction is that all the wines are from Argentina, though as the world’s fifth largest producer this doesn’t limit choice much.

“The only truth with regards to wine tasting is what you feel in your mouth and your nose and then what you feel about the experience,” says Mymicopulo.

Each dish was accompanied by at least two different wines to try with the food. While usual wine tastings include just a small sip, these glasses were fully filled. We discussed which wines we liked, which ones we didn’t, and the wines for the next course were chosen based on our likes and dislikes.

“Here, there is no plan,” Mymicopulo explains. “We open new bottles depending on what customers like and don’t like. It is a personal exploration of wine and food.”

We began with champagne, continued onto white wines and rosé, and later red wines and dessert wines. There were two fish dishes, which I would normally associate with white wine. Instead, we broke the rules and tried the fish with a lighter red wine, Patritti Pinot Noir 2009, which turned out to be delicious. Each dish, from the bread crumb-cheese-squid combination to the vanilla cream dessert, was beautifully presented and mouthwateringly appetising. My favorite wine was the Viña El Cerno Malbec 2004 because of how much I could taste the actual flavor of the malbec grape.

Delicious food served at Casa Coupage (Photo by Helena Andell)

Casa Coupage began in 2005 as a wine club in the house of Mymicopulo and his then-girlfriend Inés Mendieta. The couple studied in sommelier school together and lived in Spain, Costa Rica and Nicaragua working with wines. The members of the original Casa Coupage wine club asked if the couple would include dinner and so the place opened for one night per week with only four tables. The dinner was a success and soon the house opened up two nights, then three and grew to five tables.

The restaurant moved to its current location two years ago and is now open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday with reservations. Clients can choose from a set menu ($350) or order on their own.

Casa Coupage staff pride themselves on providing a space for the recreation of wine tasting. To make a reservation visit www.casacoupage.com or call 4777-9295.

Wine (Photo by Helena Andell)

If you’re fashion hungry, and prepared to veer off the well trodden fashion circuit, Buenos Aires provides a veritable sartorial feast, with the city becoming ever more colourful and exciting of late in terms of new creative talent offering a private shopping experience behind closed doors.

The alternative to high-end boutique design, until recently, had always been market style clothes stands, offering cheap substitutes but with increasingly generic design and poor quality confection, and synonymous with the tourist trap of Plaza Serrano. In recent years, the price tags of some of the more established Argentine fashion houses has rocketed. They have allowed the increasingly overinflated peso and the approval of an elite status-hungry Argentine client base go to their heads, yet at a cost. Many local designers are now deemed too pricey, even by international standards, to tempt a tourist into buying.

As a direct result, many young emerging fashion designers or vintage clothing sellers are shunning the crippling rents of commercial spaces, in favour of small flats or studios in unmarked private apartment blocks dotted around the city. The fact that they are still honouring the fashion conscious stomping grounds of Las Cañitas, Palermo and Jardin Botánico in their location choices makes their showrooms accessible both in terms of location and price. They also maintain exclusivity, due to their appointment only policy (in some cases) or address on request protocol.

What makes the experience both so personal and memorable is that the showrooms are generally run by the designers themselves, passionate about what they do and invariably down to earth and buena onda. Regardless of whether you leave laden with bags as you bask in your fleeting Alicia Silverstone ‘Clueless’ moment, or empty handed with a smile from ear to ear (having tried on countless outfits and with an impossible wish-list that eclipses the measurement of your inner thigh) they just want to ensure you leave happy and tell your friends. Social networking (especially ‘feizbuk’) is their most effective advertising platform through word of mouth and recommendation.

Here is a selection of my favourite showrooms:

Blackmamba T-shirts and jackets (courtesy of Blackmamba)

Blackmamba

Run by the adorable Bianca, with her two partners in crime, Rocío and Facundo, this label is a force to be reckoned with. Having just opened the doors of their space to the public in April after an impressively slick inaugural runway show of the A/W 2012 collection, the label is fast developing a name for itself : think beautiful leather design, limited edition pieces and fierce accessories. An eclectic mix of cultural influences with a nod to the early 90s, black magic and pentacles combined with bang up-to-date soft palettes and sharp tailoring make this label stand apart. Highlights are the felt and oh-so-buttery-soft leather mix biker jackets, irresistible one-off amulet jewellery collection (with new and varied stock every visit!) and beautifully handmade chelsea boots and velvet platform wedges. The menswear is a perfect excuse to drag a male friend along or shamelessly style your boyfriend by buying him gifts.

No appointment required. Thames 2110 1 ‘D’. Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Mon & Sat 2-9pm

Maison Abbey dress and accessories (courtesy of Maison Abbey)

Maison Abbey

Run by two girls from Uruguay, this showroom works as a concession for a number of independent Uruguayan designers as well as local upcoming Argentine designers. There is a cross-section of stock, from meticulously embroidered evening wear to more casual day wear and accessories. Look out for bang on trend lace up platform brogues by Potatoe, Mina Ezqueirra’s incredible red wedges and this season’s must have floor length skirts, in a variety of colours and fabrics. Handbag designer Le Boix’s creations are a reasonable must, with the tartan tote getting a thumbs up for its lush design as well as its price tag.

Gurruchaga 1974, PB 1. Tues-Sat 12-8pm. No appointment required.

Vendaval store (courtesy of Vendaval)

Vendaval

Vendaval is doing things very much DIY. Recycling select vintage garments and adding a fresh approach with subtle alterations, transforming pieces from outmoded to ahead of the trend. Lovers of 90s cultural references makes for a jewellery collection brimming with lusted-after pieces: their shirt collar accessories with crucifixes and mock silver ear cuffs with drop details are hot property.

Call/message to check times/location details.

Bimba Vintage dress and accessories (courtesy of Bimba Vintage)

Bimba Vintage

Bimba is a tangible incarnation of what a dream dressing up box would look like. Jazmín Rodríguez, recent first time mummy and model/presenter, has turned her hand and exquisite eye to this showroom and no detail is overlooked, down to the delectable labels and carefully selected one-off vintage pieces, every one of which has a story to tell. Unlike the mixed bag that ferias americanas offer across the city, Jazmín has a stock that reflects current trends: there are no ‘fillers’ here, you’d be hard pushed not to want to force her to pack up shop and hand over her entire stock to you in one fell swoop. She boasts a celebrity following too: Alexa Chung bought four pieces when she was in BA recently shooting for MTV.

Appointment only. Contact to arrange a time/for location details.

Pippy Miller T-shirts and leggings (courtesy of Pippy Miller)

Pippy Miller

Their first collection has sold out three times over in as many weeks of the showroom being open. But these girls know what they’re doing. Their exuberance for their product is infectious, and with good reason. The full-length, homemade tie-dye skirts, slouchy tops and flared leggings are to die for: in lightweight cotton jersey and especially in this seasons hot colours of mustard and maroon, they look sensational.

Message first to check opening times/location details, but no appointment required. 

Blit Bags (courtesy of Blit Bags)

Blit Bags

These bags are predominantly geared towards the US market, retailing in department stores such as Free People and Fred Seagal, but in Argentina Blit run a modest showroom, selling their trademark baby soft leather bags at trade prices to locals and clued-up tourists. The bags are both stylish and functional, each with a myriad of pockets and compartments for practical needs, while boasting 100% colourful silk linings and vibrant colours.

Appointment needed. Message to arrange a time/for address details.

Editor’s note: we are revisiting this article, which was originally published on 18th May, 2011, as part of our food month. Some information and prices may be out of date. Please follow the links to the restaurants’ websites for up to date information

There is nothing like having a home-cooked meal. There is really nothing like having a home-cooked meal prepared by a professional chef. All over the world chefs have been opening up the doors to their hogar and preparing delectable meals from their house kitchen. Puerta Cerrada (closed door) restaurants have become particularly popular in Buenos Aires after the economic crisis of 2001. The Indy sent out one lucky journalist to hunt down five of the best and most unique closed door restaurants in the city.

Casa Saltshaker (Photo: Adam Goldberg)

1.  Casa SaltShaker, Barrio Norte

For the last six years Chef Dan Perlman and host Henry Tapia been inviting strangers into their home to eat, drink and be merry. Originally from the States, Dan says it is fun for him to provide a forum for people to meet each other. With capacity for 12 guests, who sit around two communal tables, the experience is jovial, conversational and international – especially since now-a-days most guests are foreigners. They ask participants to arrive between 8.45 and 9pm so the joint adventure can begin around 9.15. You’ll be greeted with a welcome cocktail followed by a five course meal of “fancy home cooking” – as Dan describes it. The menu, that changes weekly, usually has a historical theme – based on the date. Dan keeps his meals memorable by taking on challenging themes that stretch his specialty in Mediterranean cuisine. Previous meals have been inspired by ‘Cinco de Mayo’ but also ‘Towel Day’.  In his house, Dan’s cooking whims are the way – and everyone is better off because of it. The food is fresh, unique and truly delicious – throw in a group of multicultural strangers (soon to become friends) and you get one hell of a dinner party.

The five course meal is $130 with an additional $60 for wine pairings. Cash only please. For more information, click here.

Paladar ready to host a dinner. (Courtesy of Paladar)

2.  Paladar, Almagro

After you ring the door bell, enter a candlelit escape from the typical night out. A faint red glow, soft background music, and private tables scattered through the space give Paladar Buenos Aires a romantic ‘night in’ feeling – except instead of delivery pizza and beer – you’re being served a divine meal by dedicated service, paired with the absolute perfect wine. And when I say the perfect wine, I mean the suggestion for each course takes what is already an exquisite meal into the realm of heavenly. The presentation of each of the four courses is elegant, but unlike super swanky restaurants, the servings here are hearty and full – with out being too rich or heavy. Chef Pablo Abramovsky combines fresh ingredients with an ingenious command of flavor to make an extraordinary culinary experience. His wife Ivana Piñar, usually the sommelier, skillfully connects the meal with Argentine vino to create a masterpiece. Did I mention I liked the wine pairings? Coffee and a petite cookie make the perfect finale to an enchanting evening. For a particularly special occasion you may want to reserve the table by the fireplace where you and your loved one can snuggle next to each other on the red couch.

The four course meal is $135 with an additional $45 for wine pairings. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Casa Felix dinner

3.  Casa Felix, Chacarita

Walking into Casa Felix is so cozy and welcoming, you immediately feel at home. Chef Diego Felix and wife Sanra Ritten have created warm, intimate space – like you’ve just walked in to your best friend’s really gorgeous, antique house. You take your welcome cocktail in the garden, filled with aromatic herbs growing in every corner of the yard. This is where the chef finds his inspiration. Every course of the meal has a least a little something from the beautiful vegetation he has in the back. It could be lemon, lavender, mint, fuzzy chayote leaves – these he wrapped around a piece of Patagonian cheese to make a wonderful morsel with surprising texture. The 15 puerta cerrada-goers mill about out back, chatting and getting to know each other – but once it is dinner time, everyone is herded through the bustling kitchen, to individual tables. Sanra’s professional photography decorates the white walls and gorgeous multicolour paper chandeliers hand from the high ceilings. Diego makes food for the more adventurous palate – willing to move beyond they usual Argentine fare – the meals are pescatarian – and create mouthwatering surprises like an ‘exotic mushroom empanada’. By the end of my dining experience I felt so at home, I felt like hugging Diego like an old friend.

The four course meal is $150, with an additional $75 for wine pairings, or order a bottle from the list. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Casa Mun dinner (Photo: Angela McCallum)

4.  Casa Mun, Palermo

The newest puerta cerrada on the scene, Chef Mun has already made a name for himself in this world of clandestine restaurants. Their loft home is minimalist and modern. Clean lines, complete with bamboo in the patio. The Asian inspiration continues with the food – fused with some California influences. The May menu includes crispy tempura, melt-in-your-mouth sashimi, sushi rolls, Chinese curry and (my favorite) Korean bibimbap with a quail egg! Chef Mun likes his spice, but is sensitive to Argentine vulnerability, making room for less tolerant taste-buds if necessary. Perhaps the part of the evening, besides the meal, was Chef Mun’s description of each course, his passion for food and love for entertaining are obvious as he beautifully explained each impeccably designed plate placed in front of you. Arrive at 8.30 for a champagne reception and a chance to get to know everyone who will be dining with you. Communal tables and wine pairings make for a jolly night of delicious food and good company – most of the foreign kind – even a little spice can be too much for the Argentine palate.

The five course meal, including wine pairings, is $195. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Cocina Sunae

5.  Cocina Sunae, Colegiales

Chef Christina Sunae spent much of her younger years living in the Philippines and Japan. After several years in a Thai restaurant in New York, she brought authentic Asian cuisine to Buenos Aires. The dining room is spacious, candle-lit and mostly divided up by tables for two. Unlike several of the other restaurants – Christina finds her guests to be mostly Argentine – and unwilling to share a table with strangers. For people who are in the mood for real Thai food – the spicy kind – or Asian cuisine the way it was meant to be – Sunae has got it down perfectly. The chef knows authentic taste and if she can’t find the perfect ingredient, she’ll mix things around until the taste is just right – no exceptions. According to the chef, Asian food is made for sharing. She offers two entrees every night to provide variation and suggests couples order one of each so they can experience more plates. The meal is rich, spicy, playful and filling – for the last two years Cocina Sunae has been expanding the Argentine palate and will continue to do so for a long time.

The four course meal is $110, wine from the list is additional. Cash only. For more information, click here.