Editor’s note: we are revisiting this article, which was originally published on 18th May, 2011, as part of our food month. Some information and prices may be out of date. Please follow the links to the restaurants’ websites for up to date information

There is nothing like having a home-cooked meal. There is really nothing like having a home-cooked meal prepared by a professional chef. All over the world chefs have been opening up the doors to their hogar and preparing delectable meals from their house kitchen. Puerta Cerrada (closed door) restaurants have become particularly popular in Buenos Aires after the economic crisis of 2001. The Indy sent out one lucky journalist to hunt down five of the best and most unique closed door restaurants in the city.

Casa Saltshaker (Photo: Adam Goldberg)

1.  Casa SaltShaker, Barrio Norte

For the last six years Chef Dan Perlman and host Henry Tapia been inviting strangers into their home to eat, drink and be merry. Originally from the States, Dan says it is fun for him to provide a forum for people to meet each other. With capacity for 12 guests, who sit around two communal tables, the experience is jovial, conversational and international – especially since now-a-days most guests are foreigners. They ask participants to arrive between 8.45 and 9pm so the joint adventure can begin around 9.15. You’ll be greeted with a welcome cocktail followed by a five course meal of “fancy home cooking” – as Dan describes it. The menu, that changes weekly, usually has a historical theme – based on the date. Dan keeps his meals memorable by taking on challenging themes that stretch his specialty in Mediterranean cuisine. Previous meals have been inspired by ‘Cinco de Mayo’ but also ‘Towel Day’.  In his house, Dan’s cooking whims are the way – and everyone is better off because of it. The food is fresh, unique and truly delicious – throw in a group of multicultural strangers (soon to become friends) and you get one hell of a dinner party.

The five course meal is $130 with an additional $60 for wine pairings. Cash only please. For more information, click here.

Paladar ready to host a dinner. (Courtesy of Paladar)

2.  Paladar, Almagro

After you ring the door bell, enter a candlelit escape from the typical night out. A faint red glow, soft background music, and private tables scattered through the space give Paladar Buenos Aires a romantic ‘night in’ feeling – except instead of delivery pizza and beer – you’re being served a divine meal by dedicated service, paired with the absolute perfect wine. And when I say the perfect wine, I mean the suggestion for each course takes what is already an exquisite meal into the realm of heavenly. The presentation of each of the four courses is elegant, but unlike super swanky restaurants, the servings here are hearty and full – with out being too rich or heavy. Chef Pablo Abramovsky combines fresh ingredients with an ingenious command of flavor to make an extraordinary culinary experience. His wife Ivana Piñar, usually the sommelier, skillfully connects the meal with Argentine vino to create a masterpiece. Did I mention I liked the wine pairings? Coffee and a petite cookie make the perfect finale to an enchanting evening. For a particularly special occasion you may want to reserve the table by the fireplace where you and your loved one can snuggle next to each other on the red couch.

The four course meal is $135 with an additional $45 for wine pairings. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Casa Felix dinner

3.  Casa Felix, Chacarita

Walking into Casa Felix is so cozy and welcoming, you immediately feel at home. Chef Diego Felix and wife Sanra Ritten have created warm, intimate space – like you’ve just walked in to your best friend’s really gorgeous, antique house. You take your welcome cocktail in the garden, filled with aromatic herbs growing in every corner of the yard. This is where the chef finds his inspiration. Every course of the meal has a least a little something from the beautiful vegetation he has in the back. It could be lemon, lavender, mint, fuzzy chayote leaves – these he wrapped around a piece of Patagonian cheese to make a wonderful morsel with surprising texture. The 15 puerta cerrada-goers mill about out back, chatting and getting to know each other – but once it is dinner time, everyone is herded through the bustling kitchen, to individual tables. Sanra’s professional photography decorates the white walls and gorgeous multicolour paper chandeliers hand from the high ceilings. Diego makes food for the more adventurous palate – willing to move beyond they usual Argentine fare – the meals are pescatarian – and create mouthwatering surprises like an ‘exotic mushroom empanada’. By the end of my dining experience I felt so at home, I felt like hugging Diego like an old friend.

The four course meal is $150, with an additional $75 for wine pairings, or order a bottle from the list. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Casa Mun dinner (Photo: Angela McCallum)

4.  Casa Mun, Palermo

The newest puerta cerrada on the scene, Chef Mun has already made a name for himself in this world of clandestine restaurants. Their loft home is minimalist and modern. Clean lines, complete with bamboo in the patio. The Asian inspiration continues with the food – fused with some California influences. The May menu includes crispy tempura, melt-in-your-mouth sashimi, sushi rolls, Chinese curry and (my favorite) Korean bibimbap with a quail egg! Chef Mun likes his spice, but is sensitive to Argentine vulnerability, making room for less tolerant taste-buds if necessary. Perhaps the part of the evening, besides the meal, was Chef Mun’s description of each course, his passion for food and love for entertaining are obvious as he beautifully explained each impeccably designed plate placed in front of you. Arrive at 8.30 for a champagne reception and a chance to get to know everyone who will be dining with you. Communal tables and wine pairings make for a jolly night of delicious food and good company – most of the foreign kind – even a little spice can be too much for the Argentine palate.

The five course meal, including wine pairings, is $195. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Cocina Sunae

5.  Cocina Sunae, Colegiales

Chef Christina Sunae spent much of her younger years living in the Philippines and Japan. After several years in a Thai restaurant in New York, she brought authentic Asian cuisine to Buenos Aires. The dining room is spacious, candle-lit and mostly divided up by tables for two. Unlike several of the other restaurants – Christina finds her guests to be mostly Argentine – and unwilling to share a table with strangers. For people who are in the mood for real Thai food – the spicy kind – or Asian cuisine the way it was meant to be – Sunae has got it down perfectly. The chef knows authentic taste and if she can’t find the perfect ingredient, she’ll mix things around until the taste is just right – no exceptions. According to the chef, Asian food is made for sharing. She offers two entrees every night to provide variation and suggests couples order one of each so they can experience more plates. The meal is rich, spicy, playful and filling – for the last two years Cocina Sunae has been expanding the Argentine palate and will continue to do so for a long time.

The four course meal is $110, wine from the list is additional. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Fed-up of facturas? Sick of steak? If you’ve had your fill of Argentine cuisine, sometimes what you crave most is good grub from home, exactly the way your Mum/Mom/Mamma/Maman makes it. In a city packed full of restaurants boasting every type of cuisine from Peruvian to Japanese, hungry customers really are spoilt for choice. To help you, we’ve focused on British, North American, Italian and French restaurants and come up with these five favourites.

The inside of the Gibraltar Pub (courtesy of The Gibarltar)

1. Gibraltar, San Telmo

Highly regarded as the most authentic British pub in Buenos Aires, Gibraltar has been bringing a piece of the UK to Argentines and ex-pats alike since 2001. The bar’s longevity and proximity to hostels makes for a good mix of tourists and locals. Bosses lived in England for a number of years and were keen to bring the pub concept back to BA with them. Located in San Telmo and fronted by a traditional sign, the interior is attractive dark wood, tables and booths throughout several rooms, a pool table and a small beer garden.

Food reflects the multicultural British cuisine – traditional pies, fish and chips and beefburgers are joined by Thai Green Curry and pizza. The chicken strips with wide chips are highly recommended. Tasty puddings include brownie with ice cream, banoffee pie and lime cheesecake. What’s nice is that you queue and pay to order rather than waiting for service at your table. Happy hour is from 6-9pm, where you can sample the beer and many varieties of whiskey.

Open daily midday-5am. Mains around $40. For more information, click here.

The Office 'New York style' Burger (courtesy of The Office)

2. The Office, Las Cañitas

As you’d expect from classic American grub, The Office specialises in burgers. There are six varieties and, if you can’t decide between them, you can order mini versions of three or five of them. My personal favourite is the tantalising Californiana, a burger accompanied by guacamole, cheddar, bacon and rocket. The Clásica contains caramelised onions, mozzarella and pickles; the BBQ Bacon is what it says on the tin – bacon, barbecue sauce and an onion ring. Aside from burgers, Yankees pining for home will go nuts for chicken wings, fried mozzarella cubes (definitely worth a try!), cheesy fries and ranch dressing (an irresistible combination of mayonnaise and garlic, for those not in the know). Desserts include New York cheesecake, apple crumble and the most authentic brownie this side of Texas.

Owner Alan Epstein moved to Buenos Aires from Las Vegas in 2007 and opened the restaurant in December 2010, having noticed a lack of good American food. Customers consist of ex-pats and Argentines and Epstein sometimes invites friends to hang out, which adds to the friendly, informal atmosphere. Downstairs has more of a diner feel whilst the roof terrace has old movies projected onto the wall and a classy bar with an impressive drinks menu (Mojitos, Bloody Marys, Caipirinhas).

Open nightly from 7pm. Mains around $30. For more information, click here.

The California Burrito Company at the Dot shopping mall (Courtesy of CBC)

3. California Burrito Company, various locations

US-born chain manager Alec Hart took on the business a while back and believes CBC is one of the city’s few providers of quality Mexican food. The first restaurant opened in Microcentro, which was followed by another twelve over sixteen months. Now CBC branches can be found in lands as far-flung as Uruguay, Chile, Colombia and Panamá.

Far from being an ex-pat hangout, meal times in the restaurant are crammed with Argentines. “Young professionals come here because they’re discerning and care about what they’re putting in their bodies,” explains Hart. “We don’t cut corners – our food doesn’t contain lard, MSG or excessive salt.” Nothing is frozen (in fact, the site doesn’t even have a freezer!) and only sweet corn is canned. Even the sour cream is made from scratch.

The range comprises tacos, quesadillas and burritos, filled with lomo, chicken breast or pork. Argentines need not fear – Hart is a strong believer in leaving condiment-adding to the customer so the food can be as spicy as you desire. Accompaniments include nachos, beans, salads and homemade salsas. They also sell beer, soft drinks and cookies for dessert.

Offers include Taco Tuesday (three tacos and a small drink for $30), Margaritas para Mujeres ($10 between 8pm and 10pm) and two-for-one beers on a Friday. The Microcentro restaurant is fitted with a bell that can be rung on exit to show appreciation. Throughout my visit, the bell rings frequently – a sure sign of satisfied customers.

Open 11am-11pm, Monday-Friday; 12 noon-midnight Saturday and 2-10pm Sunday. Mains $22-$36. For more information, click here.

The warm and homely ambiance of the main salon of Sette Bacco (courtesy of Sette Bacco)

4. Sette Bacco, Recoleta

If you haven’t yet made the pilgrimage down Agüero to this Italian restaurant, you’re in for a treat. The brick walls and ceiling softly lit by candle-shaped bulbs make for a cosy atmosphere, combined with the class of crisp white tablecloths and immaculate glassware. Background music manages to be both unobtrusive and funky and a bread basket of little cheese-topped buns is brought to your table as you wait.

Owner and chef Daniel Hansen, originally from Jujuy, trained in New York and fell in love with Italian food, which he describes as “the best in the world”, on his first visit to il bel paese. He has since devoted himself to an authentic learning of the cuisine. Sette Bacco has been open in the evening for the last eight years and as of two weeks ago, by popular demand, now opens its doors also at midday.

The lunch menu is simpler and lighter but you certainly won’t go hungry: for $65 you can have a soup or salad starter, a main (either pasta-based such as tortellini, gnocchi or spaghetti, or a chicken breast), a dessert (such as apple strudel, lemon sorbet or homemade ice cream) and a glass of wine or soft drink. The evening menu is extensive. Starters include pizza and aubergine topped with parmesan, whilst the mains menu flaunts numerous kinds of pasta (even five types of risotto), fish, meat and polenta. If you still have room for dessert, try the panna cotta, homemade dulce de leche mousse or tiramisú. The pièce de résistance, in my opinion, is the Trilogy, a semi-frozen dessert involving layers of biscuit, dulce de leche, chantilly and chocolate ice-cream. Delicious!

Open daily 12.30-3pm and from 8.30pm. Mains $40-60. For more information, click here.

La Petanque in San Telmo (Courtesy of La Petanque)

5. Brasserie Pétanque, San Telmo

Located on a quiet corner of San Telmo on the beautiful cobbled street of Defensa, this French brasserie oozes charm and class. The interior is large and uniform with white pillars and cheer brought by yellow-mounted windows and doors. The bar is beautifully presented and boasts an impressive wine list. In addition to the inside chairs, you can opt to sit on a cushioned bench or outside.

With the lunch menu, for around $65 you can have a glass of wine, starter, main and dessert. The evening menu provides more choice, however. Starters include quiche lorraine, gazpacho, pâté, oysters and onion soup, which comes highly recommended by owner Pascal Meyer. Follow this with a main of meat, fish or pasta. There are traditional options such as rabbit with Dijon mustard, boeuf bourguignon and steak tartare, as well as some surprises: champagne-soaked salmon ravioli and trout with almonds. This mix of the traditional and new rolls over to the dessert menu where nestled among classics such as fondant, profiteroles and apple tart, you’ll find lemon mousse laced with vodka and orange crème brûlée.

Open Tues-Sun 12.30-3.30pm and 8.30pm- midnight. Mains $45-$75. For more information, click here.

In light of the month-long celebration of Peruvian culture in Buenos Aires, Peruba, the Argentina Independent chose to interview a Peruvian expat for our BA lives section. Elvis Aguirre is the owner of one of the finest gourmet Peruvian restaurants in Buenos Aires: Mochica. The restaurant’s chic interior and superb cuisine are elements of a reality far removed from the owner’s humble roots in Peru.

Mochica will be taking part in Peruba’s Peruvian restaurant fair on 24th July. Many of the Peruvian restaurants in town will have stands along Avenida de Mayo from 2pm on.

When did you come to Buenos Aires?

My dad first came to Buenos Aires in 1993. Economic conditions were very bad in Peru, so he moved here to earn more money and send it home to our family. At that time I was living in Piura, a city in the north of Peru. My parents had taken me there to work. I wasn’t able to say goodbye to him, and that was very sad.

It took a while for my dad to find work, and the first few months were very difficult. He spent two nights sleeping outside in Plaza Once. After three months he was finally able to find a job. Meanwhile, I had moved to Lima. I paid for my studies by working as a salesman: I would walk around the city selling chewing gum, cigarettes and candy out of a box.

After two years my mum joined my dad in Buenos Aires. My three brothers and I moved in with my grandparents. Being the oldest, at 15, I had to take responsibility for looking after my younger brothers. I began to cook most of the meals for them. When we lived in Trujillo, where our family is originally from, my mum had a small food stand and I used to help her prepare the food when I had time. I first learned to cook with her, but when I began to cook for my brothers I developed a real passion for being in the kitchen. It was our roots that brought me to have this great affection for our culinary culture.

After I finished high school, in 1999, I decided to join my parents in Buenos Aires. We lived in a tiny apartment and I started working in Lanús, in a Chinese supermarket. I would leave at 5.30am to get to work and I wouldn’t return home until midnight. I did that everyday for five months.

Elvis Aguirre, owner of Mochica Restaurant (Photo/Jessie Akin)

Finally, I was able to find a job that was closer to where we lived, in a restaurant called Big Bar, downtown. I started as a kitchen helper, then I became a waiter, then a bartender and eventually I wound up as the manager. I worked there for four years.

Then, in 2002 my parents bought a parrilla from one of their neighbours who was having trouble running it. They converted it into a Peruvian restaurant, and named it Sabor Norteño. Little by little, the whole family began to help out, and the restaurant become increasingly more successful.

By 2007 I had saved up enough money to open my own restaurant. I began by looking for a location in Palermo, but instead I found this place in Abasto. It is an area that still has a lot of potential for development.  Now it is becoming a strategic and commercial area. So, in 2008 I opened the restaurant Mochica.

What does the name Mochica mean?

Mochica is the name of a pre-Inca civilization in the north of Peru. My family is originally from Trujillo, and we used to live just 15 minutes from the ruins of Chan Chan, which was the centre of this civilization. The name of the restaurant is in honour of our roots.

Did you encounter any problems opening a business as a foreigner?

No, I didn’t have any problems because our family restaurant had already proven to be successful. As is the case with many restaurants, however, business was very slow at first. At the end of my first day I had about $50 in the cash register. Now, we make about  $10,000 everyday.

Why did you choose to make it a gourmet restaurant?

I wanted to improve the perception that people here have of Peruvian cuisine. I wanted to attract tourists, who tend to be more familiar with the food, and also to be popular within the Peruvian community here in Buenos Aires.

In Buenos Aires, just five years ago, there were no gourmet Peruvian restaurants. I think that the general perception of a Peruvian restaurant was an unsophisticated presentation, cheap, bad food and poor service.

Today there are more than five top-notch, gourmet Peruvian restaurants. The change continues each time a critic comes here to write a review of the restaurant.

Gourmet food at Mochica prepared by their head chef (Photo/Jessie Akin)

So, would you say that Peruvian food has become more popular in Argentina and even worldwide in the last few years?

Yes. When my family first opened our restaurant, Sabor Norteño, in the middle of the economic crisis of 2002 people thought we were crazy and that it would certainly fail. But we were successful because we fought and fought with all of the family. I experienced a similar situation when I decided to open Mochica here in Abasto. Just three years ago this area was very different: there were no other restaurants on the block and there was rubbish everywhere, it was dirty, and there were a lot of dangerous people around.

But the neighbourhood has begun to change, and the restaurant has been doing well.

It makes me proud that many Peruvian businessmen have begun to follow our path and are looking in to creating more restaurants here. People have begun to realise that our cuisine can save our culture. We have a food culture that is constantly evolving.

I think Peruvian cuisine has gained popularity because people are realising what an abundance of unique products we have. Peruvian soil produces purple corn, hundreds of varieties of potatoes, pepper, lemon, many different tubers, cereals, legumes, grains, etc. I always say that the Peruvian lemon has been a miracle for us. It is a fruit capable of cooking without fire. All of these unique products combine in a fusion and create a cuisine that is beginning to become more recognised.

What makes Mochica different from the rest of the Peruvian restaurants in Buenos Aires?

The difference is that we use exclusively Peruvian ingredients – we work like ants trying to find them every week. Sometimes it is very difficult, we often have to go out to the market in Liniers to get the products we need. The quality and variety of meals is critical to us. The cleanliness and presentation is also an important feature for us. Overall the quality of service is what sets us apart. I want people to come to the restaurant not only to eat, but also to walk away having learned about our culture.

The foundation for the success of this restaurant has been the family, the Aguirre family. Having the support of my family has allowed us to continue moving forward.

What do you see in the future for Mochica?

We just want to keep building upon the popularity of Mochica. We are very proud to have created this restaurant, which comes from the work of a humble immigrant family, that is becoming so well recognised and popular. We are aiming to open another restaurant in the northern suburbs, perhaps as early as 2011 in San Isidro

Mochica is located across from the Abasto Shopping, at 520 Agüero. The dining room is open from noon until late everyday of the week. Call 4866-2200 for reservations.

For more information on the various activities taking place during the Peruba celebrations check out: www.peruba.org

Diners getting ready to tuck into their evening meal at Cilantro (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Looking for a hip, modern and exotically delicious new restaurant to try in Buenos Aires? Cilantro, founded by three Israeli immigrants, puts a whole new spin on Argentine dining.

Buenos Aires’ new fusion craze can be difficult for restaurants to pull off, but Cilantro blends flavours from around the world and provides a menu that will satisfy any palette.

Founded by three Israeli immigrants, Cilantro combines sushi rolls, quirky cocktails and tasty entrées to create a unique yet affordable menu in its quaint Recoleta/ Barrio Norte location (Anchorena 1122). Drinks range from $10 to $22, sushi is $16, and don’t expect to pay more than $30 for a main dish.

The red painted walls with funky designs and colourful bar add a spicy contemporary vibe to the restaurant, as well as the chic waiters. Around 11pm, the lights dim down and music turns up, giving more of a trendy bar feel to the restaurant.

Cilantro provides two happy hours; from its opening at 6pm to 9:30pm for the early birds, and from 1:30am until closing for the bar hoppers and party crowd. Don’t miss jazz nights on Wednesdays, Cilantro’s most popular night to enjoy some appetizers and cocktails with live music. If you’re going for drinks, be sure to try the Japanese Mojito, made with melon flavors, or the Limón Meringue, with lemon peels and vanilla vodka.

Dinner at Cilantro is a beautiful and tasty thing. (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

The menu ranges from sushi and seafood to pasta, sandwiches, and delicious entrées. Their light, tasty version of special chicken with cream sauce, mashed potatoes and vegetables demonstrates chef Elyada Cohen’s knack for chic presentation and exquisite flavor.

Cilantro’s distinctive style comes its unique history. All three founders from Tel Aviv fell in love with Buenos Aires when they visited and decided to establish their own restaurant in the heart of Latin America.

Eli Cohen, 33, left his job as a lawyer and embarked on a journey to South America. He met an Argentine woman in Bariloche, a Spanish teacher, who fell in love with him when she saw him cook. He came up with the idea for Cilantro and founded the restaurant in Buenos Aires two years later.

Avidan Kimchi, 34-year-old bartender and gourmet expert, studied gastronomy and business management in Israel, and worked at numerous bars and restaurants in Tel Aviv, including the well-known Shalvata. He then left Israel to travel the world and study the gastronomy of other cultures, such as Thailand, India, the Philippines, Nepal, Cambodia and others. He met Cohen back in Tel Aviv, who told him about his idea for Cilantro, and after only a month of getting to know Buenos Aires Kimchi was sold.

The third, Morris Mayzel, 45, ran the successful Lola restaurant in Tel Aviv for 20 years and fell in love with an Argentine traveller.The two of them journeyed to Buenos Aires and met up with friend Kimchi, who proposed the idea to Mayzel. The idea of living in the wonderful city of Buenos Aires with the love of his life convinced Mayzel to join the two men as the restaurateur.

Come see what these men have created; an appetising menu and chic atmosphere affordable for its young audience.

Photo by Sanra Ritten

The Buenos Aires culinary scene saw an increase in the profiles of closed-door restaurants last year – they became seriously cool and quite frankly, it isn’t surprising. Let’s say you have visitors in town and you take them somewhere with no sign on the door – ideal way to show off your inside knowledge of your adopted city. Argentines aren’t as eager as ex-pats and visitors yet but that is changing. People seek out the unique, the different, and the lesser known. As big brand names or labels begin to be far from cool – secret places and local gems are what people seek out now. The organic, the authentic, the real, the unusual. Of course as more people look for them, the more they change. If everyone is looking for the unique or the secretive how do places stay how they started?

Generally the idea behind these places is that they are in someone’s home, more and more there are places opening that are simply restaurants which choose not to have a sign, where you must reserve, which aren’t “mainstream”… I must stress that being a restaurant without a sign or in someone’s house does not make it a dead-cert success. Beware. But do not hesitate to make your booking immediately to get your spot at this gem…

Photo by Sanra Ritten

Casa Felix must be one of the best-respected versions of the closed door restaurant scene on the streets of dear old Capital Federal. Diego and Sanra open their home in Chacarita on Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings for about 14 people. The format is friendly and relaxed and you leave knowing you have just been somewhere particularly special. The couple has travelled around South America finding different flavours, interesting ingredients and increasing their obvious passion for nosh. They are up early and off to the markets, the set-menu depends on what is fresh that day and will almost always include something that you have never heard of.

Visitors are welcomed with a shot glass of delectable drink in the garden (weather permitting) having seen the kitchen where the action happens. Diego explains the vegetables they grow on-site and a bit about themselves. Diego is Argentine, Sanra is from the States and they know their food. The pescaterian menu is a delight – as the dishes come out the hosts point out the interesting ingredients, a Bolivian lime sauce which was delightfully sweet on our grouper sticks out. There is a strong influence from the Andean and Central American regions and grains that rarely appear on menus in Buenos Aires create scrumptious salads laced with rarely heard of flavours.

I have been on several occasions now and so many things stick out – peanut soup from my first visit was soul lifting stuff, crunchy salads and perfectly cooked fish. The five courses cost $100 per head and unlike some places with set menus you are not left overflowing – the food is healthy, the intermezzo tends to be a refreshing granita, it is not heavy or too much. It nears perfection.

The wine list is short and simple – good, well-priced wines, but should you feel like indulging they will be more than happy to accommodate your tastes. Similarly with warning they can cater to vegetarians, vegans, people with funny allergies… they are patient and willing.

Photo by Sanra Ritten

You really must reserve and I suggest you do it with plenty of time. Casa Felix is ideal for romantic evenings for two but also for groups of friends. When the mercury is high and the sky is dry the tables are set outside in the courtyard of the house so that you get a glimpse of the culinary action. If not you are in the simple, homely dining room.

Oh if only one could eat that well in everyone’s casa.

My favourite dish – peanut soup

Most likely to be sitting next to – someone friendly

Some people will love – the setting

 

Photo by Sanra Ritten

Combine the ambiance of an Argentine pulpería and laid-back porteño coffee shop with the menu of a mini-farmers market, New York style deli, and gourmet almacén and you have Oro & Cándido.

Although it replaced a neighbourhood classic, a 40-something year-old bar, it is anything but. Oro & Cándido, a pioneer in the capital’s gastronomy, is one of the first restaurants in Buenos Aires that spouts a menu entirely based on regional, Argentine products. Yes, French bakers at L’epi make the bread, but they are, undoubtedly, one of the best bakeries in Buenos Aires, and that is the other pillar of Oro & Cándido, quality, excellence. Any item can’t make the menu based on the fact that it’s produced in Argentina alone, it has to be superior in taste as well. Take their water for example, their two philosophies bottled up in thirst quenching form.

While travelling in Salta, Marcelo Epstein, one of the owners, discovered Palau, one of the few hypothermic mineral waters in the world. Oro & Cándido is the only place in Buenos Aires where you can buy Palau. Not only does the water taste like it was bottled up right after babbling over some stones, but it is full of health benefits. Springing from as deep as 2,700 meters into the earth, it possesses nutritive, digestive and diuretic properties and contains calcium and magnesium.

The culinary treasures from across the country do not end with the bottled water; they just begin.

 

Photo by Sanra Ritten

Their menu features yuquitas rellenas con suburí, a native river fish enveloped in a fluffy fried dough of manioc, served with a sauce of aji mirasol, a chilli commonly used in Peruvian cuisine. Other delicacies are llama meat carpaccio, and ñandú, a local ostrich.

They also offer homemade lamb, wild boar, salmon, water buffalo and spinach stuffed raviolis. The desserts also reflect the multicultural and biological diversity of Argentina. Quesillo, a north-western handmade cow milk cheese with miel de caña, a sugarcane syrup, and dulce de cayote, an annual vine that produces a melon like fruit native to northern Argentina.

Chef Luis Romero’s latest dish is a tender deer with potatoes, mandarin and coriander cream, sautéed spinach and crispy ham. Romero is a chef from Salta who came to Buenos Aires to work at Oro & Cándido when it opened, four months ago.

Epstein, partner Jorge Manson and Romero jointly create the menu. The relationship between them is very unique. Epstein calls it a symbiosis. Epstein and Manson are constantly in the kitchen, creating the dishes side by side with the chef. Both men have long histories with food and have satisfied their gastronomic passions over the years by travelling and eating and now want to use Oro & Cándido as an outlet to share their knowledge.

 

Photo by Sanra Ritten

The menu also obviously benefits from Epstein’s other business, Sabores de Argentina, which distributes artisan products from all over the interior of the country in Buenos Aires. From the maracuyá, passion fruit, pulp of Formosa to the exotic mushrooms of the south, Sabores de Argentina supplies the restaurant with its unique menu.

Aside from importing products from Argentina’s provinces, Epstein also imported the sandwich culture, something he brought back with him after 11 years in the states. “The culture of the sandwich is something that doesn’t exist in Argentina,” said Epstein. “Aside from ham and cheese tostadas,” he clarified, “there was no variety or interesting sandwich options before.”

Although they were inspired by New York delis, even the sandwich menu bears the Oro & Cándido signature, local meats, artisan cheeses, and incredible bread.

Oro & Cándido, 4772-0656, Guatemala 5099, www.oroycandido.com.ar

My favourite dish: French dip au jour

Likely to spend: $20-50, depends on if you go for lunch or dinner drink water or wine

Likely to be sitting next to: an Argentine drinking a coffee

Some people will love: the huge colour photograph by Marcos López

Photo by Sanra Ritten

We have a bad reputation in the kitchen, us Brits. Unlike our European counterparts – the French with their boeufs, the Italians with their pasta, the Spanish with their tapas – most people screw their noses up at the idea of ‘English cuisine’. Or laugh and make a lame joke about fish and chips.

But contrary to popular belief, the English can cook. And one man and his brand new restaurant seem to be here to throw the misconception out of the window, defying popular belief.

Martyn Scourse has been in Buenos Aires for ten years now, but his steak and kidney pies, beef in ale, and jacket potatoes with chilli con carne are just about as English as they get.

I suppose chilli con carne is not technically English (Mexicans might have something to say about that!) nor would be the curries that are on offer in the new San Telmo spot Mash every night, but if you take into consideration the ‘multiculturalism’ that former PM Tony Blair was always lauding, we can probably claim them on some level. And chicken tikka masala was voted the ‘most British dish’ a couple of years back, proving Tony’s point.

Going into Mash for the first time, the one thing that I felt was the warm sense of familiarity and how much my dinner ‘tasted like home’.

The food will not blow you away with the presentation – that’s not really the point. And when people criticise ole Blighty’s food, they are right in thinking it’s not ‘nouvelle cuisine’ – three lettuce leaves with a prawn on top. What Martyn offers in Mash is good old comfort food – the kind of thing your mum used to serve up. And he does it well and at a good price.

Photo by Sanra Ritten

And what will make Mash a success is probably that he is aware he’s onto a good thing. Martyn knows the market well – he opened the first English pub in BA – Three Lions, which imported all of its beer. The 2001/2 financial crash put an end to that, and after a couple of other ventures and a stint back in the UK, Martyn returned to open Rocket, a restaurant in the centre, which was a huge success.

Rocket recently closed its doors to make way for Mash – and with the news roast dinners are on offer on Sunday lunchtimes, I’m pretty sure the success Rocket enjoyed will be following on shortly.

When I pass by to talk to Martyn, despite Mash only having been open a matter of days, I met regulars who live around the corner from Rocket and have followed him to San Telmo. They are only slightly put out by their new commute.

Terry and Elizabeth can’t get enough of the food, and Elizabeth is enthusiastic about how good the salads are. “They’re not just a mixed salad to have on the side as a gesture of healthiness – these are full-plate ‘meal salads’ with everything in.”

As it’s barely spring on the day of my visit and raining to top things off, I take on board the English climate and opt for beef in Guinness instead. It’s warm, hearty and hits the spot.

And I realise there is really nowhere else that has done this. It’s quite ridiculous given the number of expats who are flooding into the city, that Mash is – and probably will remain – quite unique in its authenticity.

Photo by Sanra Ritten

Looking around the restaurant, while a nice spot, it is not a slick Palermo kind of place. It could almost be called no frills. But the décor is not important – the food and perhaps a laid-back chat with Martyn thrown in is what Mash is about.

If you are British you will recognise the food and love it, if you are Argentine you will ask for the curry to be toned down, and if you are French you will probably turn your nose up at the presentation.

But the promise of roast dinners and curry in the heart of San Telmo will surely be enough to make people go and keep going back.

Mash – México 518. Open Monday-Friday for lunch (12.30-4.30pm) and dinner (7pm-midnight). Open Saturday nights, from 7pm and Sunday for lunch, 12.30-4.30pm.

My favourite dish: the promise of roast chicken

Some people will love: Martyn’s yarns

Likely to be sitting next to: a Brit asking for more spice

Likely to spend: $30

 

Photo by Tiffany Kenyon

Luckily Asian food is evolving beyond the porteño favourite of a ‘wok’, which almost always means some old vegetables chopped up very thinly with some sorry pieces of chicken wallowing in them and doused by soy sauce. Last week I had wasabi pasta in the Palacio Duhau – scrumptious and rather ingenious.  However wasabi pasta has not always blessed the plates of Buenos Aires with its presence. Lotus Neo Thai, however, has been around since 1994, it makes it feel rather old, but I have to point out that 1994 was a jolly long time ago now. 

Lotus Neo Thai is nestled upstairs on a quieter corner of the somewhat hectic Las Cañitas and the inside looks like a cross between Thailand and a spoilt child’s playroom. It works in a weird way. The lights are colourful overgrown flowers that come up from the floor, and the walls are brightly coloured with more monster flowers growing out of the floorboards. You can choose to sit at the tables or on the floor – which more often than not seems like a cool idea initially, but unless you have a yoga-perfect posture and legs that tuck easily under your bottom, it quickly becomes rather a silly idea. I do not hold these tables against the place though, as I am sure pilates devotees love them, and it makes the aesthetics more out of the ordinary.   

 

Photo by Tiffany Kenyon

One of the things that I adore about Asian cuisine is the sharing, trying little bits of everything and never having food envy. I have to admit that I am a regular at Lotus Neo and for some peculiar reason I often end up there with an American journalist friend of mine who hates sharing. It has become somewhat of a mission to irritate him by picking at his mixed satay and chicken and cashew nuts (he always has the same) because I find it genuinely annoying that he is so selfish with his food.

 

Photo by Tiffany Kenyon

Aside from the mixed satay and chicken and cashew nuts of which I only ever get a crumb of, some things on the menu are super, most things are good and a couple are a bit of a let down. The best thing is that you can skip by and have a bowl of vegetables in oyster sauce and be off, or plonk yourself down with some good cocktails and have a feast. Prawn crackers come with spicy sweet chilli and peanuts at the beginning. Then the crab spring rolls are a splendid way to start or the coconut shrimp if only for the tamarind sauce. Sadly the ‘Pinky in the blanket’ tends to be a floppy prawn wrapped in soggy pastry and so while the rather amusing translation may tempt you to try it, I don’t recommend it.

The main courses are a delight to see on paper because they include the typical westernised Thai nosh and some more interesting ones. I think that Tom Yam soup and Pad Thai noodles are one of the world’s greatest cure to a hangover and the Lotus Neo Pad Thai is a fine example of good noodles. The red curry comes with chicken or beef, bamboo and butternut squash, stir fried chilli pork with green beans and peanuts – decent Thai grub. If this was in London then it would be OK. It is in Buenos Aires and so it is fantastic and reliable – not out of this world but quite frankly, it’s standard westernised Thai food done in a city where it is not that easy to find a good stick of lemongrass or some tamarind. 

Lotus Neo Thai, Ortega y Gasset 1782, Las Cañitas, Tel: 4771 4449, www.restaurantelotus.com.ar

Some people will love – sitting on the floor, for a bit

Most likely to be sitting next to – a happy ex-pat or a brave Argentine

My favourite dish – Pad Thai

 

Photo courtesy of La Huella

Luckily for me I have been able to escape the sweaty ghost town that Buenos Aires becomes in January and hit the crowded beaches of Punta del Este. Well, of course I would never be seen dead in Punta itself, and keep very much to the far nicer area of José Ignacio a few kilometers down the coast. The little fishing village has seen plenty of restaurants come and go – Mallman’s Los Negros is no longer as he has moved in-land to the picturesque Garzon, Osaka last year lasted a mere handful of days – but Martin Pittaluga’s La Huella remains the crowd drawing ‘it’ beach restaurant again this year.

The international crowd flocked to La Huella over New Year and, not unfairly, the restaurant was compared to the legendary beach Club 55 of St. Tropez. The menu at La Huella is simple, good food – fresh fish baked whole with a splattering of garlic and lemon, calamari and freshly made sushi. Of course, if you don’t book then you wait. And wait. And wait and then get very much burnt and peel unattractively for the rest of your holiday. For logistical reasons the restaurant closes from about 7-8.30pm as they change things around for the supper rush, but, not surprisingly, this seemed silly to many people trundling off the beach in search of a snack and a good caipirinha.

We were lucky enough to shuffle off the beach in time for a gin and tonic and to order some calamari. Half an hour later and happily in laid-back, but hungry beach mode, my company asked where the calamari might be. “In the kitchen,” said the straight-faced waitress and swanned off. Pause. Hysterical laughter. Swig of g&t and the giggles died down. What an annoyingly brilliant answer! If only waiters all over the world could pull off a line like that and still get a tip. It probably wasn’t her fault that the calamari were delayed, more likely to be the fault of the kitchen. That’s where the calamari were and so that’s what she unapologetically told us. Punto.

 

Photo courtesy of La Huella

The pizza in La Huella is thin and baked in their wood oven; it has perfect amounts of basil, cheese and tomato. The lamb melts in your mouth. The prawns come in their shells with garlic and chili, a cucumber salad and mango dressing – delicious and simple, perfectly cooked and fresh. The sushi is fantabulous – made at the bar and overseen by smiley Coco. The prices are reasonable for this uber-trendy corner of the world and the food is fresh, properly cooked and not fussy – ideal for lunch, snacks or supper by the beach. If you don’t have to wait in the burning sun because you are clever enough to have made a reservation, or you know someone, or you have booked upstairs then La Huella is great. Pancho Dotto and his models might be sprawled at a table next to an American divorcee heiress next to a young English couple and their babies. If you wait then get a large jug of fruity clericot, sit back and people gawp.

For more information, visit: www.paradorlahuella.com

Likely to be sitting next to – Who knows but it is fun to work out who they are, or who they think they are…

My favorite dish – Calamari in the kitchen…

Some people will love – The fact that they know someone, and so can get a table quickly without a booking.

Photo by Sanra Ritten

Narda Lepes is one of the most popular celebrity chefs in Argentina. Her travel/cooking television show on the cable channel Gourmet is only five years old and in that time her name has become commonplace amongst any Argentine interested in gastronomy. Her first book, ‘Comer y Pasarla Bien’ (Eat and Enjoy) was just recently published and has been a huge success.

How would you define your style of cooking?

In general I like homemade food. Even if it seems exotic because it is from a different place as long as it is homemade that’s what I most like to eat. There are certain things within gourmet cuisine that I like but not many. I like simple yet gourmet cuisine that focuses more on the products than on the presentation. First and foremost, I like to make food that tastes good. Whether it looks nice, is exotic, or rare is of secondary importance.

Also, it depends who you are cooking for. If I am in a restaurant cooking for 60 people or if I am on TV talking to people around Latin America who pay for cable or if I am talking to people through the Clarín newspaper, I have to find how I can transmit the same information for different audiences. Instead of worrying about defining what type of food I make I just try to make food where I don’t always use the same ingredients. I try to make a diversity of dishes, that way I encourage people to eat everything. If people eat just a little bit better, whether it’s just that I gave them one new idea, I am happy. It doesn’t necessarily need to be healthy because I like to use butter and bacon as well, but I also use beans, lentils and broccoli – the more variety, the better.

What is your opinion of Argentine gastronomy?

Compared to other Latin American countries we don’t have a huge legacy of cuisine, one in which all the people eat the same typical dishes at home and pass on recipes. It’s very limited – basically empanadas, a few stews, a couple of sweet things.We have lots of foreign dishes that are classics here but they were brought from other countries. After all the killing during colonalisation, there weren’t a lot of indigenous people to pass on their cuisines.

Argentina was also a very sparsely populated country – very different from countries like México, Perú, and Colombia which are much more densely populated. The legacy of the indigenous people is much more apparent in their recipes with corn and quinoa for example. You go to México and the people actually eat typical dishes like mole and tortillas in their homes. You go to Perú and they eat Peruvian food. McDonald’s is as popular there. In Colombia fast food there is their own food – pipian empanadas, egg arepas etc. In Venezuela it’s the same. When you walk down the street you have lots of options of local Venezuelan food.

But we don’t have that. We are a country full of good products but take away the empanada and the asado and the Argentine doesn’t eat really typical dishes. We eat chorizos, which are a product, sure we might prepare it a certain way but there is chorizo all over the world.

Locro, carbonato… there are very few Argentine dishes. They are delicious and flavourful but it is difficult to sell Argentine food when you have so little.

However, we do have a culture of eating because we have Spanish, Italian and Middle Eastern, Turkish, Armenian, Jewish influence which means that we eat well, all these people like to eat. People who come from abroad often feel more at home here because the flavours are more familiar than those of other Latin American countries.

What does the lack of Argentine cuisine mean for Argentine chefs?

A cook can do whatever they like but in the beginning they end up looking abroad a lot more.

What countries do you most look to?

When I first started, I looked to French food because that’s what I studied. I went to Paris and worked in restaurants there. But I studied Japanese food the most, because the concept and ideas of Japanese food interested me.

Once you understand these two extremely opposite cuisines you can better understand all those that lie in the middle. In fact, now they don’t seem as so completely different to me as they first did. One thing is to understand how people eat and another is to just use recipes. Recipes you can just look up on the internet or read out of a book.

The why behind each dish is important. I use maps, geography, history to find the why, why they took certain products to certain places, why certain dishes prospered and others no etc.

Where have you gone so far on your travel programme?

Japan, London, Morocco, Brazil and Greece. We go for 30-40 days each year and we film 8-13 programmes. You don’t have one free day, when you aren’t filming you are investigating when you aren’t investigating you are producing or sleeping. Regardless of the workload, it’s great.

We start to develop radars for finding things that are interesting. We avoid filming things that are just there to show, we try to look for the authentic. In Greece it was very difficult because I think it’s the most touristy country in the world.

In your travels, did you ever experience culture shock?

Yes of course. In the weirdest places, like let’s say Morocco, hardly at all, even though the culture on the surface level seems so exotic. The religion is different, they eat with their hands, they don’t use utensils, despite all the differences I felt so comfortable with the people. I felt such a human connection, such closeness, even though we couldn’t communicate with words I felt closer to people in Morocco than let’s say someone in England even though we have similar codes, and can speak the same language. In Morocco they come up to you and hug you, there’s human contact and in England no.

In Japan it was difficult. The Japanese don’t tell you no. Negation doesn’t exist and to tell you no they have to go around in circles and so until we finally understood when people were trying to tell us ‘please don’t film here’, or ‘no you can’t’ or ‘no’. We had a difficult time.

Do you feel like your TV programme has an importance much larger than just showing recipes from different countries?

Yes definitely. The whole point of the travelling show is to show how other cultures eat and prepare their food. For me to make a typical couscous doesn’t make sense, we could shoot that here in the studio. It’s much better that I talk about it while a person from the place makes it. The viewers like it the most when I try the food at the end. They are really envious.

For more information, visit www.comerypasarlabien.com