Tag Archive | "History"

Hudson Nature Reserve: A Living Museum


“Museums in Europe are beautiful, but they’re very closed off. They’re like cemeteries. (The Hudson Nature Reserve) shouldn’t be a dead museum.” These are the words of Ruben Ravera, curator of the William Henry Hudson museum and nature reserve are located to the south of Buenos Aires, just outside Quilmes.

The museum is based around the house of William Henry Hudson, author and scientist, who was born in Argentina to parents from the US, and lived here for almost 30 years before moving to Britain. Although the park does celebrate Hudson’s past, Ravera insists it is very much committed to “projecting the dreams of Hudson” in the present.

Ruben Raver, curator of the Henry Hudson museum. Photo/ Jessie Akin

Today it stands out for the sheer range of objectives it pursues: preserving history, preserving nature, inviting scientists to study, educating school groups, supporting social development and working with indigenous communities are all activities on its agenda.

Although it is by no means the park’s only asset, the historical value of the museum is great. Hudson is remarkable for being one of the few people who unites skill as a fiction writer with talent as a scientist. On the literary side, his record is impressive: he wrote several novels, the best known of which is titled “Green Mansion,” and he moved in circles with Virginia Woolf and George Bernard Shaw. Although his books are little known in Britain, he remains popular in other countries. Most notably inJapan translations of his work are on the high school syllabus.

Most of his novels focus on the theme of nature and the author and politician Cunninghame Graham once said: “Of all the writers that I can think of, Hudson is the one that gets closest to nature. He himself was nature personified.” The author Joseph Conrad also praised him highly, writing: “The secret of his charm as a man and as a writer is still mysterious to me, something supernatural. He was a product of nature, and had something of nature’s fascination and mystery.”

The tree Hudson is thought to have played in as a child. Photo/Jessie Akin

As a scientist Hudson was also accomplished. He is described on the park’s website as “one of the most important naturalists of his time” and as well as publishing a number of books, he also exchanged letters with Charles Darwin. He was particularly interested in bird life, and after moving to Britain in 1869 was one of the founding members of the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) He was also a great conservationist at a time of the industrial revolution, when few people either in Europe or Argentina gave a thought to the damage that the unregulated creation of factories, mines and railways could cause. He is also credited with being the first known etiologist, or scientist of animal behaviour. To put it another way, he was the forefather of the likes of David Attenborough.

An ecological installation by a local artist. Photo/Jessie Akin

Artefacts relating to all of this can be seen today in the museum and surrounding parkland. However, that’s only a tiny part of what the Hudson reserve has to offer. Ravera asserts: “It’s not all about the life of Hudson, it’s about doing things inspired by Hudson.” He insists that the reserve should be actively engaged with the community in the present, and should put Hudson’s passion for preserving the environment in a modern context. One way the park does this is by demonstrating alternative energy sources, including solar power and bio fuel. It is also home to a homemade fuel-efficient oven and Ravera hopes to use the museum’s resources to spread the design in Buenos Aires’ villas, where fuel is scarce and makeshift housing gets unbearably cold during the winter. The park also plays an important role in preserving biodiversity in Buenos Aires province, and it is a refuge for hundreds of forms of bird and plant life.

Ravera also emphasises the importance of not just using the park to preserve nature, but of getting actively involved in education. Talking about the park’s role in preserving the environment, he says: “We need new people and a new way of thinking, and it’s difficult to change an older person’s mind. That’s why it’s better to try and educate the younger generation the right way than change the minds of the older one.” He laments that even now, as people become aware of the importance of biodiversity, there is still a long way to go: “There used to be around 50 species of tree in Buenos Aires. Now the average resident here can name three. There’s an incredible lack of knowledge.” Today the park tries to change this and engage the community, inviting school groups and scout organisations to stay in the park for free.

Ravera also stresses the role of the park in fostering development in Argentine society in a more general way. The reserve is located just to the south of Buenos Aires, near some of the city’s poorest districts. As such, Ravera also uses the centre as a sort of community base, which hosts installations by local artists, concerts and festivals, including an important winter solstice celebration organised by the indigenous community. Ravera tells me, “Some people ask us why we do it. ‘What has Hudson got to do with the indigenous?’ But the point is that we’re doing what he would have wanted.” He also relates social development to Hudson’s fight to conserve nature, saying “The idea of diversity is that you don’t express preference for one culture over another,” and this isn’t just true in the natural world, but in human society as well.

The reserve is about letting nature in, and spreading culture out. Photo/Jessie Akin

In the end, the park is about Hudson, but it’s also about inclusion and social progress. “You don’t have to build a fence around the reserve and say ‘this is nature, and that isn’t’,” Ravera tells me. Instead, the park is all about inviting nature in, and spreading culture out, making this is a museum that is very much alive.

The museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 9.30am to 5pm. The address is Calle 1356 (El Zaino) between Avenida Hudson and 1379 (1888), Florenciao Varela. Contact the park by calling 2229 497 314 or emailing museo_Hudson@ic.gba.gov.ar. For more information visit the website:http://parquehudson.blogspot.com/2007/08/atlas.html

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Opera Pampa


Photo by Beatrice Murch

“Prepare to discover the history of Argentina in an unprecedented and unparalleled show, where the beginnings of a nation and its traditions are shown as never before.” The publicists for this show cannot emphasise quite how impressive this show is: “one of the best shows in the world”, “magical”, “expressive”, “one of the best shows in the world”. Well, there was certainly an unprecedented and unparalleled amount of sentimentality and tackiness.

The musical show covers the history Argentina, from first Spanish landing, through independence and Julio Argentino Roca’s conquest of the desert to 20th century European immigration. You might be thinking, “Those are rather hefty topics to be covering in one show” and you would be right. However, the Opera Pampa people have niftily circumvented that little problem by depicting each part of history in much the same way; There were military men on horses. There were semi-naked indigenous communities, also on horses. They would charge at each other and then indigenous people would die in large numbers.


Photo by Beatrice Murch

Never has the term ‘one-trick-pony’ been so apt. The traditional zamba dance was a nice touch, but apart from that it was just two hours of men in costumes riding furiously around La Rural stadium with the occasional illustrative song and dance. The music was mostly easy listening pop inspired by Karl Jenkins with the occasional pan-flute over the top. The dancing was nice, but not spectacular. It was made worse by the fact that the stadium is enormous, so it was like watching mice dancing. All of the scenes were bathed in deep shades of red and blue, which gave the odd sensation of watching a horse show inside a disco.

The most painful element in the show was the singing. The singers themselves weren’t bad, but the songs that punctuated each ‘storyline’ were quite horrendous. At one point, a Mapuche woman in a flimsy dress is left behind by her people and sings a song about death and being forgotten. I felt distinctly uncomfortable thinking about the pueblos originarios who had marched to Buenos Aires only two weeks before that. I doubt they would be too impressed that their history has been distilled into a two minute song involving a scantily clad woman wriggling around in the sand.

However, let’s not forget that Opera Pampa is not just a show. There is a reception before the show and a dinner afterwards. Polite members of staff in ponchos and boots welcome the audience to drink glasses of wine and eat empanadas whilst shopping for equine souvenirs. They then militantly shunt the guests out again to watch the show. There is a traditional asado dinner provided afterwards.

I am not sure that the hospitality made up for the show. It was disappointing to attend this show two weeks after the bicentenary celebrations. So much effort was dedicated to highlighting the triumphs of the country’s complicated history at the bicentenary celebrations, it seemed ludicrous to see this hammy interpretation of Argentine history being peddled for $300. There was none of the “magic” or “realism” that was advertised: they really were just flogging a dead horse.

Reservations can be made via www.operapampa.com.ar or by calling 4777 – 5557. Shows take place on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 8pm. The show costs $120, dinner and a show costs $300 and a VIP package costs $460. Children up to the age of 12 are half price. The shows are all in Spanish.

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A Second Independence for Argentina


Photo by Guilermo
Argentine military standing in formation on 9 de Julio to celebrate the Argentine Bicentenary

“We were capable, We are capable.” The slogan has repeated itself on government radio and television adverts throughout Argentina, which is celebrating 200 years since the 25th May revolution that eventually led to the country’s independence on 9th July 1816. The natural question such a slogan begs, “of what exactly?” One assumes its independence from Spain. Yet two centuries later, though nobody’s colony, many are still asking: How independent is Argentina really?

Bicentenary Blues

Despite a flurry of festivities that rang in Argentina’s third century, beyond the exhibitions, concerts, and flag-waving, the bicentenary has also been an opportunity to reflect on the country’s past, present and future. What exactly has the country been capable of and what are the challenges that it faces? This is what many Argentines – particularly intellectuals, academics, and those active in social movements – have been attempting to do: remind us of the issues that get lost in the shuffle and to celebrate with eyes wide open.

I spoke with Argentine historians Hilda Sabato and Elsa Bruzzone to gain insight into the significance of the bicentenary and the state of Argentina today and throughout its 200 years. Both have been actively working to contribute their voices to the bicentenary buzz: Sabato through the website ‘Historiadores y el Bicentenario’ (Historians and the Bicentenary) which hopes to “give a space in which historians can publicly circulate questions that we have been debating in recent years with respect to our history”; and Bruzonne through her contribution on Argentina’s natural resources to the newly-released ‘Pensar la Nación’ (Thinking the Nation), a collection of essays written by a host of academics in order to not only discuss the country’s history but what is “the best Argentina we can have”.

These and a host of other events – like ‘The Other Bicentenary’ encampment in Plaza Congreso on 24th and 25th May sponsored by a host of social movement groups and community radio stations – have sprung up because of what many see as a lack of depth and discussion around the occasion.

Photo by Guilermo
Float for the province of Cordoba makes it way on 9 de Julio leaving confetti in its wake

“There is a lot of noise but not too much beyond that,” says Sabato, a professor at the University of Buenos Aires (UBA) and principal investigator of the National Council of Scientific and Technical Investigations, CONICET.

With the famous Avenida 9 de Julio set up like a tourist brochure – each province of the country on display in its own colourful stall – and events like an antique auto show, Sabato reflects, “It’s going to be fun maybe, tomorrow, day after tomorrow … then we’re going to go to the World Cup. I see the tone of the bicentenary on the same level as that or even less so.”

The issues at hand are neither pleasant nor obscure, but those that all nations must address: economic stability, the quality of life of its citizens, social division, land and the use of its natural resources, and political and democratic freedom and participation. And with more than 20% of the 40 million citizens living below the poverty line, 60% of families without medical coverage, a public education system in deterioration, and 40% of its workers labouring “off the books”, all while battling rising inflation, Argentina has plenty to discuss.

“It’s not the bicentenary that one dreamed in their youth,” says Bruzzone, author of three editions of the book Water Wars. “We dreamed the dreams of the liberators of this continent, like Bolivar and San Martín. One dreamed of arriving at the bicentenary with this dream totally fulfilled, with a county without social inequality, without poverty and exclusion, without misery, of a country with jobs and healthcare and housing and education for everyone.”

Weakened State

In talking with Sabato and Bruzonne, it became clear that understanding Argentina today is impossible without particularly understanding the last 100 years and what both see as the dismantling of the powers of and protections by the state. Major events? The rise and fall of Peronism, the military coup in 1976 and the junta’s stranglehold until 1983, the neo-liberal economic policies of Carlos Menem’s populist government, the devastating crash of 2001, and the rebuilding that has been taking place ever since.

YPF logo courtesy of Wikipedia

In the first half of the 20th century, particularly after the economic crash of 1929 and 1930 and after WWII, Argentina saw a strengthening of its industry – the state-owned oil enterprise YPF was created and the Central Bank and railways were nationalised, which helped finance the construction of hospitals, schools, and used to combat disease. Workers rights were respected, wages were high, and unionisation skyrocketed.

However the last military dictatorship, many of whose key economists had been trained at the University of Chicago under free-market guru Milton Freidman, not only pushed a policy of political violence but economic as well. The dictatorship dismantled gains made under Perón, as economic minister José Alfredo Martínez de Hoz outlawed strikes, lifted price controls and restrictions on foreign investment and sold off thousands of state enterprises. Prices and poverty rose dramatically and the dictatorship accumulated enormous amounts of debt. As it was losing ground in 1982, the military junta appointed Domingo Cavallo as head of the Central Bank who implemented policies that allowed the country’s top private enterprises to shift billions in debt to the state through secured exchange rates, a process that continued after the dictatorship under Raúl Alfonsín.

“When the government of Isabel Perón was overthrown, the external debt of the country in 1976 was around US$4bn,” says Bruzzone. “When the dictatorship left, the debt had risen to US$40bn.”

Though a self-proclaimed Peronist, Carlos Menem who came to power in 1989 gave the position of economic minister to Domingo Cavallo and other top slots to former employees of the International Monetary Fund (IMF). What followed was a series of billon-dollar IMF loans, the selling off of the majority of state enterprises, and the creation of the Argentine peso that was linked to the dollar, all of which resulted in massive layoffs, a freeze on local industry in the face of expensive production costs and cheap imports, and even more debt.

This free-market frenzy ended in the notorious crash of November and December of 2001, in which recession and unemployment caused investors to pull huge sums of money out of the country and get out of town. The De La Rúa government froze bank accounts of millions of Argentines, who, when finally allowed access, were left with a fraction of their savings. Food riots broke out and on December 19th and 20th a mass of Argentines swarmed Plaza de Mayo demanding that all the politicians who had gotten the country into this mess, leave immediately. De La Rúa was helicoptered from the Casa Rosada to escape the angry crowds. It was clear to many that the state had turned against its people.

“The destruction of the state, not just the welfare state but as an agent of change and intervention in society, was gradual,” says Sabato. “The dictatorship and Menem’s government were key to that destruction.”

Two hundred years later

Which brings us to the Argentina of today, a place where you can eat a five-course meal for US$30 in a trendy restaurant while a family sifts through street garbage nearby.

“We have had poverty in the last few years as never before,” says Sabato. “The distribution of income has been one of the worst in history, and many people have fallen well below the poverty line.” She calls this income gap “one of the worst aspects of Argentine society today”, which she says should be “unacceptable in a country like this”.

Photo by Xomiele
Madres of the Plaza de Mayo protesting the payment of the Argentine Debt

The external debt remains (US$120bn to be exact) and though former president Néstor Kirchner and current president Cristina Fernández de Kirchner had spoken against repaying it, the government since reversed its position and after heated arguments about how to repay the debt earlier this year, Congress voted to do so with reserves from the Central Bank. The question of whether to pay the debt has all but vanished from Congress. This despite a ruling presented by Judge Ballestero in 2000 that found 470 illegitimate financial operations surrounding the debt, calling it “illegal, immoral, illegitimate, and fraudulent”. Congress made no further investigation into the ruling, and according to Bruzzone, “it doesn’t look like they will.”

“This is the debt that every man woman and child of this country pays,” she says, and asserts that there is a much more urgent “internal debt” that must be paid. “The external debt can wait,” Bruzzone claims, “but the internal debt cannot – healthcare, education, and life which is above all else.”

Bruzonne commends the Kirchners for the re-nationalisation of things such as water and pensions, and for leaving behind the neo-liberal economic policies of previous decades, save for one key sector.

“With the issue of natural resources, this government does what all governments have done since 1976 … where the process of selling all our natural resources to foreigners has been consolidating and growing.”

She mentions that 20% of land in Argentina is in the hands of multinational corporations and/or foreign millionaires, and warns that this is “incredibly dangerous” and would put any country “on the brink of territorial disintegration”.

Bruzonne says that her travels and studies have convinced her that “the country that does not exercise its sovereignty fully, truly and effectively over its natural wealth will always be on its knees before the international financial and economic organisms, the transnational corporations, and will never be able to be independent, autonomous and sovereign because the development of those strategic natural resources depends also on the existence of a strong nation.”

Photo by A. Serra
Glacier Perito Moreno

South America has some of the world’s largest fresh water reserves, those in Argentina being also stored in its glaciers. Bruzonne has warned in her research that as the world’s fresh water supplies deteriorate, they will become a strategic resource over which future conflict and wars will be fought, and therefore must be protected. Though Congress passed the Ley de Glaciares in 2007 that restricted mining in glacial areas, the president vetoed the law just a few months later. No measures have yet been taken to protect the country’s fresh water resources.

Argentina’s native forests have suffered similar neglect. According to Greenpeace Argentina, the country has lost 70% of its native forests to deforestation and the Secretary of Environmental and Sustainable Development estimates that between 1998 and 2006, 2.3 million hectares were deforested, or one hectare every two minutes.

After a bitter fight, Congress passed a law in 2007 that limited the cutting of native forests depending on different levels of severity of deforestation. However the implementation of the law has been another story, to be fought out on a provincial level, often pitting small-scale agricultural producers and environmentalists against well-resourced agribusinesses.

Sustainable economics?

But the practice of cutting down native forests and the often forced removal of small-scale local producers has been used to make way for large-scale agricultural enterprises, mostly the planting of transgenic soya, Argentina’s principal export. Each year the country increases its export of soya to places like China and Europe. According to the National Institute of Statistics and Censuses (INDEC), Argentina will export 50 million tonnes of soy in 2010 earning it the title of number one soya exporter in the world.

Argentine Wheat Harvest

The biggest exporter of soya and other staples in Argentina is Cargill, which leads Forbes top ten private corporations in the US, reporting profits of over US$120bn annually. Cargill also owns the largest soya, wheat, and corn processing plants in Argentina, and is integrated with other top corporations in the country like fertilizer and seed producer Monsanto. Money is clearly being made, but how has it benefitted the people of Argentina?

Soya production is notorious for needing an increasing amount of land yet very few workers. Consumption of soya, as any Argentine supermarket will reveal, is not designated for Argentines but for people and cattle feed abroad. This might be seen as a cruel irony for a the two million Argentines who, according to UBA, go hungry each year, while living in a country with enough fertile land to feed its population multiple times over. Beyond the profits made by a dwindling pool of producers, the best chance Argentines have of seeing any of the benefits of soya production is through the hotly contested 35% government tax which generates an estimated US$5m per year. How this money is distributed and whether it can give back what soya production takes is, of course, another story.

The question then becomes: Is the soya model, reliant on large amounts of land and at the whim of the international price market sustainable for Argentina’s economy and its people? With the ups and downs international finance has seen as of late there is reason to worry.

However some, like Sabato, believe that the fact that Argentina is producing goods required by the world market is a good thing, saying that the country has “a good chance of growing”. She believes that what is done with the growth is the real issue.

“What do you do with the money that pours through this commodity exchange? That’s the problem.” She says that the government often says one thing and does another, talking against soya “without trying to create alternatives for the long run.”

“They’re not doing anything to change the structure,” says Sabato. “There could be state policies devised to re-arrange this economy, without, because it’s an expanding one, restricting investment.” She laments what she calls the “improvised” way the current government handles things like taxes and prices controls and inflation.

“You have to have a plan. You have to have some horizon,” she says.

Big “D” and little “d”

When it comes to democracy, Argentina can be divided into big “D” Democracy of its politicians and the little “d” of its social movements. In terms of the current government and politicians, both Bruzonne and Sabato see little to be proud of.

“Our political world is poor. Not in terms of money. Poor in terms of capacity,” says Sabato. She goes on to discuss the inability of politicians to generate genuine political debate and criticises the “dangerous way” politicians face conflict. Instead of pluralism and diversity, Sabato says current politics centre around “defining and enemy and crushing it relentlessly”.

“This notion of politics, which was very common in Argentina in the second half of the 20th century and until the end of the dictatorship has caused a lot of pain,” she remarks.

In the face of pressing issues like the environment, Bruzonne notes the lack of “political courage” to make change, and directly calls the political classes and leaders “a disaster”.

“They are ignorant and generally very compromised – lots of corruption, lots of bribery … They don’t have a real and true commitment to their people,” she says.

Bruzzone believes politics “must be an act of service” to the country, rather than what she calls a “medium through which one fills their pockets” but “remains screwed to their seats” when decision time comes.

In a time of reflection like the bicentenary, Sabato sees the national government as offering no national agenda, and “doing nothing to reconstruct the state in a solid sense”.

A collection of photos of the Disappeared

Calling herself a survivor of the politically-repressive dictatorship that disappeared thousands young intellectuals, activists, and artists, Bruzzone says the challenge is not only to re-establish the state but “the social fabric” of society.

“We had a military dictatorship that destroyed a generation not for nothing. The generation that was assassinated and disappeared, which I was a part of, was the best of the best, with its dreams, its utopias, and with commitment. That’s what’s now missing in my country.”

Though dismantled during the dictatorship, this little “d” democracy has, however, been resurgent. Social movements of the poor and working-class have fought particularly through the rise of the piquetero movement in the 1990s and since the economic crash of 2001 to be heard and addressed. Their cries have been directed explicitly against the neo-liberal economic policies of privatisation that that have hit the poor and most vulnerable sectors of society the hardest. In response to economic crisis and the lack of social services, many having taken matters into their own hands as unemployed workers movements, community centres, soup kitchens, and recuperated factories have sprung up throughout the country. Bruzonne takes note of these movements, calling them the beginnings of a reconstruction of the “fabric of solidarity,” and the “revalorisation of human values”.

“In Argentina there is a long history of public participation,” observes Sabato. “One of them is the street. Since the 19th century, the street really has been a space for public participation. People go out into the streets and demonstrate.”

Argentina’s politicians may remain silent around key issues but everyday Argentines are certainly not quiet about their discontent.

Second independence

Though Argentina may be 200 years old, national intellectuals like Sabato still find themselves asking questions like: “Are we able to create some common ground upon which to build this society?” With the amount the Argentine people have faced in the country’s 200 years, the question is both apt and deserving of an answer.

Photo by Guilermo
Procession in historic garb marching down 9 de Julio to celebrate the Bicentenary

Bruzzone puts it differently, claiming that in order to confront the country’s challenges, “a second independence remains to be realised.

“Together we liberated ourselves of Spain but then we fell into the hands of the British and then the North Americans, and then into the hands of the multinational corporations and the international financial and economic organisations,” she says.

As the fanfare of the bicentenary fades away, the pressing issues of Argentina remain; those that when addressed will push the country toward an independence that won’t be shown in parades but in the concrete changes in the lives of its citizens.

“It’s our turn to complete the project,” says Bruzzone, “And I think it’s worth completing.”

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Bicentenary Women


President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner

On the 25th May this year, Argentina will celebrate 200 years since the revolution that opened the way to independence from Spain. It is hard to escape the celebrations and parties that are planned or have already got underway, but one exhibition in particular  catches the eye. Displayed prominently in the Casa Rosada, the seat of the Argentine government, is a selection of photographs and paintings of people who either played an important part in achieving or establishing independence or, in the past 200 years, have contributed in making Argentina the country it is today.

What is surprising is that they are all women. The exhibition was developed under the direction of Argentina’s first elected female president, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner and is a fascinating collection of notable women from Argentine history. Some are well known figures such as Eva Peron and others history has forgotten, but all deserve to be recognised during the bicentenary celebrations for their contributions to Argentine independence.

The paintings and photographs are displayed in the newly established ‘Argentine Bicentenary Hall of Women’ in Casa Rosada. The venue was opened by President Kirchner on 6th March 2010, poignantly also International Women’s Day. President Kirchner commented that she wanted to create a space in a place emblematic of Argentina’s political power (Casa Rosada) that is, “a permanent place for women, a place that we have earned but that is still reluctantly recognised”. The president also said that, “women have featured ever since the birth of the country…even those that may seem to come from more distant grassroots movements, in the end all they wanted was to make a better country”. Twelve women are displayed in the exhibition, including one of the most famous names in Argentine history.

María Eva Duarte de Perón on her wedding day to General Perón

The First Woman of Argentina

Ask any tourist to name a famous Argentine and I would suspect María Eva Duarte de Perón or ‘Evita’ would be one of the first to be mentioned. The second wife of President Juan Perón, she campaigned for labour rights and in particular the suffrage of women in Argentina. In her lifetime she was enormously popular with the working classes, but came up against opposition from the nation’s elite and military. Shortly before her death from cancer in 1952, at the age of 33 she was given the official title of ‘spiritual leader of the nation’ by the Argentine congress and, although she was not an elected head of state, was given a full state funeral. She has now become an international icon, immortalised by the musical and film ‘Evita’, but to many in Argentina today, particularly women, she remains a potent source of political inspiration; not bad for a woman born out of wedlock who lived her early years in relative poverty in rural Argentina.

Not surprisingly Eva Perón has been given an important place in the bicentenary celebrations. On International Women’s Day this year she was declared, by decree, ‘The Woman of South America’. It was announced that in this bicentenary and on a day recognising women around the world it was appropriate to, “honour a historical figure who, in Argentina, represents the image of women in the struggle for their rights.” The Argentine historian Mario O’Donnell commented that she “ran an intensive campaign for every woman in Argentina…to obtain their legitimate political rights”.

The Other Woman

Victoria Ocampo

The life and works of a woman on the other end of the social scale is celebrated alongside her in Casa Rosada. Victoria Ocampo was an intellectual and writer who Jorge Luis Borges described as “the most Argentine woman”. Ocampo was born into a wealthy family in Buenos Aires and educated at home by a French governess. At the age of 17, when Evita had already left home and was working as a struggling actress, Victoria was in Paris with her family attending lectures at the Sorbonne. Victoria was to go on to become the founder and publisher of ‘Sur’, one of the most important literary magazines of its time in Latin America.

The Collective Impact

Evita and Ocampo are two of the most well known women in Argentine history and will rightfully take their place in the bicentenary celebrations, but as Barbara Sutton Argentine Assistant Professor in the Department of Women’s at the University of Albany notes, there are many more women who have devoted their lives to ensure the liberation and of Argentine men and women.

Sutton tells me: “People tend to be more aware of individual personalities such as Evita or Victoria Ocampo, than of the collective impact that the women’s movement, and the feminist movement in particular, has had on the lives of contemporary women in Argentina.”

The Casa Rosada Bicentenary Women

Cecilia Grierson

Cecilia Grierson was the first Argentine woman to become a doctor of medicine. She was sent to school in Buenos Aires and qualified as a teacher, but after a few years of teaching she made the unusual choice of training to become a doctor. This was a challenging decision for a woman in the late nineteenth century in Argentina. She was not the first woman to enter medical school, but was the first woman to be successfully awarded a degree in medicine.

Grierson was highly intelligent and innovative. Whilst studying medicine she introduced the idea of ambulances using an alarm bell (until then this system had only been implemented by the fire brigade), and was one of the first to recognise the need to develop a professional nursing service in Argentine hospitals. She founded the first Argentine nursing school, eventually named the Municipal Nursing School ‘Dr Cecilia Grierson’. Her other achievements include writing a book on massage, in which she pioneered the practice of kinesiology (the science of human movement); created the Argentine First Aid Society and published a book on treatment of accident victims; wrote and taught about the education of children with special needs; founded the National Obstetrics Association and created a journal for midwives. And the list goes on! What is so extraordinary is that on graduating she discovered that it was in fact illegal for her to practice medicine, but this did not stop her.

The struggles that she faced led Grierson to take part in the first feminist groups in Argentina and along with Alicia Moreau de Justo (see below), spoke out about women’s inferior position in society and their exclusion from educational, economic, political and social activities. She founded the Argentine Women’s Council in 1900 and chaired the First International Female Congress in 1910 as part of the events to celebrate the centenary of Argentine independence. She continued to be an active member of Argentine feminist movements until her death in 1934 aged 75.

Alfonsina Storni

Alfonsina Storni was born in Switzerland in 1892 to an Argentine father, but was to become one of the most important Latin American poets of the modernist period. She trained as a primary school teacher, but at the same time wrote for local magazines and in 1911 she moved to Buenos Aires where she had an illegitimate child. Whilst working in a shop she continued to write and started mixing with other writers. She won many awards for her poetry and taught at the Escuela Normal de Lenguas Vivas.

Ill health forced her to leave her job as a teacher, but she continued to write, adopting stronger feminist themes. She once referred to men as ‘the enemy’ and most of her work focused on what she considered to be the repression of women by men. Troubled by a solitary life and suffering from breast cancer, Storni sent her last poem ‘voy a dormir’ to La Nacion newspaper in October 1938 and on 25 October she was found drowned on La Perla beach in Mar del Plata. Her death inspired Ariel Ramírez and Félix Luna to compose the song Alfonsina y el Mar (‘Alfonsina and the sea’), which has been performed by many famous Argentine artists and was immortalised by the Latin American artist Aqunio in many of his paintings.

Alicia Moreau de Justo

Alicia Moreau de Justo, born in 1885, was a physician, politician, pacifist and human rights activist. She was born to French parents in the United Kingdom, but moved to Argentina when she was young. She initially studied to be a school teacher, but then changed course to become the fourth woman to graduate from an Argentine University as a physicist. She first became active in politics through her connections with the socialist party, but went on to help organise the First International Female Congress in 1910 and founded the National Feminine Union in 1918. In 1945 she published the book, ‘Women in Democracy’, in which she discussed the struggle of Argentine women to obtain the right to vote. In the 1950s she became general secretary of the Socialist Party of Argentina. Throughout her life she was a great supporter of human rights campaigns, in particular the mission of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. In 1980 she was part of the committee that welcomed the Inter-American Commission on Human Rights of the Organisation of American States to investigate the human rights crimes of the military government. She died in 1986 aged 99.

Aimé Paine

Aimé Paine was a Mapuche Argentine dedicated to the preservation and dissemination of folk music. She was sent to study in Mar del Plata where she dreamed of becoming a singer. When she was 29-years-old she joined the National Polyphonic Choir and there discovered that music was her true vocation. It was during international gatherings where other countries performed music of their native people, that Paine began to feel frustrated with the lack of interest Argentines had with their musical roots. She dedicated her life to ensuring the music and culture of the Mapuche was known around the world.

The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo are perhaps, alongside Eva Perón, some of the most internationally well known figures from Argentina. They are an association of women whose children disappeared during the Argentine military dictatorship of 1976-83. For over three decades now they have been campaigning, initially to find their children, and later to discover the truth and get justice for what happened to them. They have become one of the most influential human rights organisations in Argentina. During the dictatorship large gatherings were forbidden by the military, but the mothers got around this law by meeting every Thursday in Plaza de Mayo and walking in pairs around the plaza.

Although three of the founding members also disappeared, the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo avoided persecution as they represented one of the most powerful symbols of Argentine culture: motherhood. During the dictatorship they were one of the only groups of resistance against the military and caught the attention of international media. In 1986, the Mothers association split into two factions. The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo – Founding Line, which focuses on legislation to help recover remains and bringing ex-officials to justice and Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo Association, which is led by Hebe de Bonafini who take a more political and controversial approach.

The activism of the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo inadvertently led them to represent a different element to Argentine feminism; a feminist movement that embraced the values of motherhood. At the same time the implications of their work were embraced by social and human rights movements across the world.

Juana Azurduy de Padilla was born in Bolivia in 1780, but played a critical role in the Argentine fight for independence against the Spanish. She fought under the Argentine general, Martín de Pueyrredón, who elevated her to Lieutenant Coronel and also General Martín Miguel de Güemes. At one time it is believed she commanded an army of 6,000 men and it is said she fought whilst pregnant, returning to battle relatively soon after giving birth. She survived her husband and four sons, dying in relative obscurity and poverty, but is now remembered as an Argentine heroine. In 2009 she was ordained with the rank of general of the Argentine army, in remembrance of all she did for the country. In March this year Azurduy was honoured at a meeting of President Kirchner and President Evo Morales of Bolivia. At the meeting President Kirchner said that Azurduy “represents the thousands and thousands of anonymous men and women, without which the battles for freedom against colonial rule would have been impossible.”

Juana Azurduy de Padilla

Revolutionary Women

Although not displayed in the Casa Rosada exhibition there are many examples of women who were very active during and after the revolution on 25th May 1810. Joining Juana Azurduy de Padilla were other women who picked up weapons and fought alongside their husbands, fathers and brother, and others who supported the resistance to Spanish or British occupation by other means. Manuela Pedraza Tucumana fought with her husband against the first British invasion of Buenos Aires. Rumour has it that after her husband was killed by a British soldier, she picked up his gun and killed the soldier. Martina Céspedes lived with her three daughters in San Telmo during the second British invasion in 1807. When some solders knocked as her door looking for food and water, she served them alcohol to lower their defences, locked them in a  room and took them prisoner. She was later appointed a sergeant major and continued to participate in the wars of independence.

Many women offered their houses as meeting places for solders men who were resisting the Spanish rule. Maria de Todos los Santos Sánchez’s embraced the cause of independence and allowed men such as José de San Martín, Manuel Belgrano and Fray Cayetano Rodriguez to gather and plan their revolutionary activity in her house. Most importantly she wrote down her impressions of everything she saw and heard, providing for future generations, details of what occurred during those revolutionary years.

Another notable woman of the independence movement was Maria Remedios del Valle who like many poor women travelled with and supported her husband wherever he fought. In 1810, along with her husband and children, she joined the army who were fighting in the north under General Belgrano and attended to the wounded on the frontline: she was nicknamed ‘The Captain’. There is a story that years later an elderly women was begging around Plaza de Mayo who called herself ‘The Captain’. One day in 1927 General Jose Viamonte (a hero of independence) recognised her and said: “But this is the mother of the fatherland” (a way of describing the solders who had served on the battlefields).

In Salta a group of women from different backgrounds, formed a spy network and by seducing invading solders; travelling great distances; hiding information in the hems of their skirts or in places where women met, succeeded in getting information to the patriot army.

Women in Argentina Today

After reading about these women, it is hard not to focus on their lives in terms of their contribution to Argentine women’s and feminist movement. Marilyn Mercer in her essay, ‘Feminism in Argentina’ comments, “Although the individual efforts may have seemed small, unrelated, and often ultimately fruitless, when one studies these events and pulls them all together, there is indeed a realisation that much has been accomplished by women in Argentina.”

However, Barbara Sutton tells me: “Women’s movement organisations of different political persuasions, including those with an awareness of gender inequality, have contributed to shape public consciousness, have pressed for legislative changes to improve women’s lives, [and] have held governments accountable to international agreements”. It is also important to view the lives of these women in terms of the bigger picture. These women and many other women whose stories are not told, are an intrinsic part in creating Argentine society as we know it. The Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo (not part of the exhibition at Casa Rosada) may be a group of women brought together to search for their missing grandchildren, but they have also become one of the leading human rights organisations in Argentina.

While women may have not have led armies on the battlefield, they had (and continue to have) their own battles to fight and in the process helped gain rights and freedoms for many in Argentina. The bicentenary is a time to remember and celebrate the past and the present, but also to reflect on the challenges that many still face in Argentina.


Tours of Casa Rosada (Plaza de Mayo) and access to the exhibition are only on Sunday from midday until 6pm, free of charge, but bring some ID. (Opening hours may change so it is advisable to check before going).

There is also an exhibition, Las Mujeres 1810-2010 at Casa Nacional de Bicentenario, Riobamba 985, www.casadelbicentenario.gob.ar. You can visit Tuesday to Sunday (and public holidays) from 2-9pm. Admission is free.

The other women in the Casa Rosada exhibition are:

Mariquita Sánchez de Thompson is famously known for her writings about the failed invasion of the British in 1806 and 1807

Laura Ana Merello was a famous actress, tango dancer and singer, making over 45 films, spanning six decades of Argentine cinema.

Paloma Efron was a journalist, singer, director and theatre and television producer.

Lola Mora born in 1866, was an innovative and controversial sculptor.

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