In the foothills of the Andes some 2000km north west of Buenos Aires, the city of Salta, with it’s colonial architecture and sublime natural surroundings, is sometimes described as ‘sophisticated’. This does not refer to the local infrastructure (potholed roads, slow internet, and just one functioning railway), its mainly agricultural economy, and not even its considerable range of adventure and wine tourism options.

Salta, Argentina (by André-Batista, on Flickr)
Salta’s sophisticated side is best reflected in its vibrant arts scene, which provides a fascinating insight into the history and culture of Argentina’s north west. From ancient textiles to colonial religious iconography, 19th century landscapes, the Wichi naïve movement, and video installations and photomontages from around the country, Salta offers a vast spectrum of delights for art lovers, both historical and contemporary.
If you arrive in Salta by plane, your first experience of salteño art will be at the airport, where you might spot the exhibition of local paintings, photographs or sculptures to the side of the escalators that ascend to departures. And while you might have heard of Salta referred to as the ‘cradle of Argentine folklore’, you’d be forgiven for not knowing that Salta is also home to a world-class symphony orchestra, the result of a successful strategy several years ago of recruiting Eastern Europeans, virtuoso trained in the communist era, to play alongside and mentor local musicians.
Traditional and Fine Art
Salta’s Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum) moved to its current premises in 2008, and now boasts over 1000m2 of exhibition space arranged over two floors. There are different areas dedicated to pre-Columbian art, religious iconography of the 17th and 18th centuries, and 19th and 20th century art. About two thirds of the gallery is devoted to the permanent collection, with the remainder housing temporary installations, including art on loan from galleries in Buenos Aires. The majority of the permanent collection is by local artists, although there are also a few 19th century European works, and paintings from the Cusco and Potosi movements of the 18th century.

View of the city of Salta from the top of Cerro San Bernardo by Carlo Penutti
Notable historical works include the ‘View of the city of Salta from the top of Cerro San Bernardo’, a mid-nineteenth century oil landscape by Italian artist Carlo Penutti, fascinating also because you can ascend the San Bernardo hill by cable car today to experience the same view, and a contemporary painting of local Independence War hero General Guemes.
The temporary collections are often modern art, and feature installations and paintings by some of Argentina’s most celebrated contemporary artists. Currently on display, alongside paintings on loan from the Buenos Aires Museum of Contemporary Art, is a selection of textiles by local Salteño artist Carlos Garcia Bes, who creates modern images in the traditional indigenous local medium of tapestry.
Another collection of early 19th century portraits is on display in the Museo Historico de Norte (Northern History Museum), in the Plaza 9 de Julio, depicting characters from the prominent local families of the time of Argentine independence, alongside various military and domestic objects from the same era. Most of these families remain influential in Salta today.
Indigenous Art
Thanks to it’s majority indigenous population, Salta is also home to the most developed and thriving indigenous art scene in the country.
Pajcha, the Museo de Arte Etnico Americano (Museum of Ethnic American Art), one of Salta’s hidden treasures, houses the private collection of a local anthropologist. The collection is arranged to showcase the evolution of the three main mediums of indigenous art (textiles, sculpture, and painting), with historical artefacts and works on display alongside contemporary ones. Thus 1500 year old textiles are situated next to modern ones, illustrating how local traditions have survived the dramatic upheavals of the intervening centuries intact.

Textiles at Pajcha, the Museo de Arte Etnico Americano in Salta
None of the pre-Columbian American cultures invented writing, and neither did they paint besides decorating objects such as pottery, and as such religious iconography developed under the instruction of the Dominican and Jesuit priests that followed the conquistadors to the New World is the earliest example of indigenous paintings.
In Pajcha there are 18th century religious paintings from the north of the province, inspired by the Potosi and Lake Titicaca schools, that show religious scenes whose familiar Biblical characters have native American faces. There is also a painting from the famous Cuzco School, depicting a conquistador-angel, and photos of notable sculptures from the churches of the Humahuaca Valley in Juyjuy province to the north of Salta, historically on the trade route to Peru, again with protagonists with indigenous faces.
It was in the 20th century that local indigenous people began to paint for its own sake, depicting their environment and daily life. The Wichi tribe from the Chaco jungle region, a few hours drive to the east of the city, with the encouragement and support of the SIWOK foundation and the Anglican Diocese of Northern Argentina, have in particular thrived artistically, and have developed a unique style, vivid, colourful and naïve, depicting life in the jungle. Alec Deane, an Anglo-Argentine resident of Salta, founded the SIWOK Foundation in the late 1970s to help the Wichi people adapt to the modernity that was encroaching on their traditional way of life. He initially established a wood carving workshop to nurture one of their traditional art forms so as to provide them with an income, and from these humble beginnings, as Alec told their story and distributed their work internationally, the Wichi painting movement grew. The most famous artists from the movement are brother and sister Litania and Reinaldo Prado, and some of their work in on display in Pajcha.

Peruvian Coral Statues (Photo via Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña)
The Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña (Museum of High Mountain Archaeology) in the Plaza 9 de Julio contains the mummified remains of several children discovered in 1999 that were left on a nearby mountain peak as an offering by the Incas, and were preserved by the cold and lack of oxygen at the high altitude. With them were left various precious objects, such as textiles, sculptures and jewellery, which are also all perfectly preserved. These provide a fascinating glimpse of not only 15th century Incan art and culture, but also of the scale and interconnectedness of pre-Hispanic South America. The artefacts include gold figurines from Lake Titicaca in Bolivia, and coral jewellery from the northern coast of Peru.
Modern Art
For modern art lovers, besides the collections in the Museo de Bellas Artes, the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (Contemporary Art Museum), on a corner of the Plaza 9 de Julio, houses several temporary exhibitions. The standard is high, and the work on display is a mix of that by local artists and others from around the country. There are currently installations by Soledad Videla, a painter from Córdoba, and Julieta Anaut, who creates large photo-montages with mythical themes, alongside a study of Wichi life, past and present, by a collaboration of both Wichi and European-descended photographers and artists, including photos, paintings, and videos.

'Santuario Dorado Fauna Latente' by Julieta Anaut
Salta’s Art Museums
Museo de Bellas Artes (Fine Arts Museum) Av.Belgrano 992, 0387 422 1745, http://www.culturasalta.gov.ar/content/view/4481/446/
Pajcha, Museo de Arte Etnico Americano (Museum of Ethnic American Art) 20 de Febrero 831, 0387 422 9417, http://www.museopajchasalta.com.ar/
Museo historico del norte (Northern History Museum) Caseros 541, 0387 421 5340, http://www.museonor.gov.ar/
Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña (Museum of High Mountain Archaeology) Mitre 77, 0387 4370591, http://www.maam.gob.ar/
Museo de arte contemporaneo (Contemporary Art Museum) Zuviria 90, 0387 437 3036, http://www.macsaltamuseo.org/
Hugo Lesser is based in Salta in north west Argentina. He is the founder of Estados (www.estados.co.uk), which offers beautiful handmade Argentine leather goods in the UK.