Bar Seddon, one of the 54 bares notables of Buenos Aires, is the quintessential San Telmo bar. The bar’s essence epitomizes the neighbourhood’s bohemian character: the cobble stone streets, the 19th century architecture and the countless antique shops.

Photo by Jessie Akin

Bar Seddon, the quintessential San Telmo bar, has the original black and white tiles and red brick ceiling.

The bar is set up in an old 19th century pharmacy and still sports the old black and white checkered floor. From the floor to the red brick ceiling, all the decor in between has a refined vintage flavour. The original cabinets from the pharmacy now stock medicine of the alcoholic variety. The bar itself was a counter top at the National Bank in a different lifetime. On top of the bar sits a bulky old cash register, the kind with the (greatly satisfying) pull-down crank to pop open the drawer, and big typewriter style buttons. Art nouveau style, bevelled mirrors wrap around a particularly cosy corner. A dignified old clock from a railroad station gives the time.

Photo by Jessie Akin

Matias Seddon at the bar.

Not that too many people who visit are preoccupied with the time. Bar Seddon isn’t a place for “power lunches”; it’s a place for sharing a picada with close friends and carrying on long winded and wine-fuelled chats. The hospitable service extends from the warm disposition of the Seddon family, who own and manage the bar. When I interviewed them, I was fortunate enough to speak with members of three different generations of the family: Giorgina Renau, her daughter Pamela, and grandson Matías.

The bar’s essence stems from the original family business, an antique shop that was situated next to the Galerías Pacífico on Calle San Martín. The store was run by John Seddon, a painter and collector of fine old nicknacks, and his wife Giorgina, a sculptor. Unfortunately, the building that they were renting was owned by the Argentine Railroad company, who booted out all of the tenants in the late ’70s. John Seddon decided to get out of the antique business. He opened up a shop a couple of blocks down from the original and sold almost half of his collection. His children stopped him before he went any further; they had a better idea: open up a bar and use the antiques as decorations.

The original Bar Seddon was opened in 1980, on Calle 25 Mayo between Córdoba and Viamonte. It was truly a family business. Each member offered their own particular touch. Giorgina filled the bar with sculptures, including many goddesses and busts that sat on top of the bar. Pamela and her sister helped decorate, and their brother helped with construction and finances.

Photo by Jessie Akin

The bar is expressly intimate and low key, a good place for long winded and wine fueled chats.

John Seddon was a close friend of the influential group of painters, Grupo Espartaco, and he hung many of their paintings, along with his own, on the walls. The Seddons intended the bar to be expressly intimate and low key. They hung beautiful old wrought iron candelabras from the ceiling, kept the lights dimmed and placed candles at each table. The bar became a downtown favourite. From the beginning, the Seddons made a point of maintaining close relationships with their clientele, and they gained a loyal circle of regular customers.

The bar also became a destination for national celebrities like Ricardo Darin, Julio Bocca and Nacha Guevara. Numerous movie scenes were filmed in the bar, including one by the director of the last year’s Oscar-winning ‘El Secreto de Sus Ojos’, Juan José Campanella. U2 even dropped in for dinner and some drinks after playing a gig in town.

But a familiar and nasty fate fell upon the original Barr Seddon. As though a recurring nightmare, the owners of the building that the Seddons were renting sold it, and the new owners intended to demolish it. By this time, 2000, Bar Seddon had already been declared a bar notable by the city government, and the Seddons appealed to the government to help preserve the bar. They gathered signatures from their clientele, and presented an extensive petition against the demolition. Pamela laughs when she recalls notes that some of the customers scribbled under their signatures “this is where I met my wife!” and “this is where I had my wedding!” But the protests were ignored by the city government, and the Seddons were forced to leave.

The next year, however, would bring a touch of fortune to the Seddons. In 2001, as the country’s economy worsened, real estate prices dropped and the Seddons were able to purchase the old pharmacy at the corner of Chile and Defensa. Pamela points out that San Telmo, “was nothing like it is today”, and they were able to purchase the building at a very good price. Their good fortune continued after the dust of the economic collapse had settled and tourists started pouring into the city - tourists who took a particular liking to the classical architecture and bohemian charm of San Telmo.

The Seddons set up the new bar to be as close a replica of the old one as they could manage. They also wisely chose to implement some changes to cater to the foreigners’ tastes. They kept the kitchen open until 4am in order to provide all those tipsy tourists with the Argentine meat that they demanded. They offered tango classes during the week, and concerts during the weekend.

Today, the tango classes and concerts have stopped, but the bar still plays excellent music, and projects music videos on a large screen. The late night hours continue, and the bar also opens in the morning and offers tasty brunch options. The menu includes Argentine standbys, such as picadas, milanesas, pastas, pizza, burgers and of course, the most popular item on many menus, bife de chorizo (sirloin steak). The prices are on the cheaper end for the area, the quality is great, and the portions are abundant.

Bar Seddon is located at the corner of Defensa and Chile, Defensa 695. The bar is open everyday from 9am, besides Saturdays when it opens at 6pm, and keeps the kitchen open until 4am. The telephone number is: 4342-3700.

Photo by Pavel Ezrohi

Richmond is hemmed in on all sides by the bustle of microcentro

Jammed into the middle of Florida, hemmed in on all sides by the bustle of the microcentro, is Richmond, one of Buenos Aires’ 54 bares notables. There was a time when this traditional, English-style café was buzzing with activity. One of the managers recalls that 30 years ago you sometimes had to wait for an hour to get a table. Now the massive space is only about half full, and the hectic activity of the growing shopping district outside seems to have squeezed some of the life out of the bar.

In fact, Richmond could not be more out of place than it is on the busy, commercial Florida. The café is formal to the extreme. With wainscoted walls, a panelled ceiling and dark-red leather studded chairs it feels something like an Oxford college or an English country house. The heavy, imposing wooden bar fittings and the waiters dressed in waistcoats and bow ties add to this impression. Even from the road, the bar seems to exude wealth and tradition: the heavy brass columns, shining glass doors and rows of flags hanging above the entrance mean that you cannot miss it. And it all jars quite a bit with the street vendors selling Hello Kitty merchandise and the crowds of tourists outside.

Photo by Pavel Ezrohi

‘Tora Richmond’: Everything a sweet should be

Nevertheless, despite the apparent formality, the waiters themselves are friendly and charming. With a slight cheekiness, the duty manager Tomás Gil Díaz tells me about the history of the bar, describing how an English family named Richmond opened it in 1917 as part of a chain, although today only this location remains. Tomás reminisces about the bar’s past and laments the lack of customers. He says that in many ways, the fact that the government added Richmond to its list of bares notables has been more of a burden than a blessing, as it means that the owners can’t adapt to move with the changes taking place in the district, and instead are forced to maintain the image of the past. “Look around you. This ought to be full,” he tells me, gesturing at the customers dotted sparsely around the room.

However, the decline in custom is not all bad. Despite the crowded location, the space inside the bar is massive and you are guaranteed a seat. Tables are well spaced out and the atmosphere is calm, something like an English country club. The bar doesn’t get too noisy, and is certainly a relief from the street outside. If you are shopping with your parents on Florida and need somewhere to take a rest, then this is an ideal location.

Photo by Pavel Ezrohi

If nothing else, the waiters will make you smile

Having said that, prices here are quite steep. Cakes and coffee are still affordable ($10 for a café con leche, $15 for a slice of cake), and there are some cheap dishes on the menu, but the majority of the meals served here are pricey, ranging from $25 to $70. Nevertheless, the food is good (we tried a vegetarian omelette which was light and tasty) and the cakes in particular are a speciality. The ‘torta Richmond’, which is recommended by Tómas, is chocolaty, creamy, sweet and generally everything that a dessert ought to be.

Overall, this is not a location that will blow you away. Hefty prices and a slightly stuffy atmosphere are probably the reason that the bar is in decline. However, if you’re overwhelmed by the bustle of Florida, and want to escape for a while to a calm world of English tradition, this isn’t a bad place to have a cup of coffee. If nothing else, the waiters will make you smile.

Richmond is on Florida 468/ 66. It is open daily  7am-10pm. For more information call  4322-1341 or see the website: www.restaurant.com.ar/richmond

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

Victor and Miguel, regulars.

If asked to choose one or two words that best describe La Giralda, one of the 54 bares notables de Buenos Aires, neither “romantic” nor “Bohemian” would have been on my short list. However, those were the descriptions offered by regular customers Victor and Miguel, who have been coming to the bar for almost 30 years. They meet and discuss the issues of the day, politics and life. They adore the bar for having remained essentially unchanged for over 50 years.

The charm of many of the bares notables usually comes from their being relics of bygone eras. La Giralda, at first encounter, seems to be more stuck in the past than consciously preserving some antiquated beauty. The bleak dining room is lit by four cold fluorescent lights and there is hardly any adornment on the walls other than a few mirrors. This light is reflected in the granite floor, white tile walls and marble table tops.

The long wood panelled bar gives the place a bit of warmth, and the abundantly stocked shelves of liquor show signs of life. To the side of the bar there are two display cases filled exclusively with bottles of whisky. A waiter explained to me that, years ago, a group of regular clients thought it would be convenient for them to be able to buy their whisky from the cafe where they were spending so much of their time. La Giralda’s staff obliged.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

Still simple.

This accommodating service sheds light on the charm of La Giralda, which may be lost on the first time visitor but has earned the bar a vibrant following of steadfast supporters and inclusion on the list of bares notables. Apparently, if the regulars prefer the dated simplicity of the atmosphere the owners are perfectly willing to maintain it.

La Giralda was first opened by Spanish immigrant, Francisco Garrido, in the early 30s as a dairy store. Garrido named his shop after the soaring bell tower of the Cathedral of Seville, a giant gothic masterpiece. In 1951 Antonio Nodrid bought La Giralda, turned it into a bar and expanded its milk processing into the production of chocolate and other sweets. The Nodrid family still owns and manges the bar today.

During the 60s and 70s Avenida Corrientes gained a reputation for being “the street that never sleeps”. The street was packed with theatres and bookstores. In those days La Giralda stayed open 24 hours a day and catered to the young and restless that prowled along this great cultural nerve centre. The bar became a destination for intellectuals and young radicals looking to pass a few idle hours.

There was a special ingredient that kept bringing loyal customers flocking back to La Giralda. That ingredient was the delicious combination of churros, Spanish fried dough pastries, and homemade hot chocolate. This delectable combination is La Giralda’s proverbial bread and butter. By far the most extravagant element of the bar’s decoration is the giant blue and green neon lettering on the far wall reading “Chocolate con Churros”. On top of the bar sit five large bell jars that encase pyramids of freshly backed churros.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

Bread and butter.

The churros come in two different varieties, both are filled with dulce de leche, but one is also coated in chocolate. The standard churro costs $3, the chocolate coated ones $3.50. The hot chocolate, which includes a personal miniature teapot for refilling, costs $12. The churros are indeed tasty, but can be found in many cafés throughout the city. It’s the homemade hot chocolate that is the real gem. Sitting down to a hot chocolate is slightly different from sitting down to a coffee. First, it takes longer to prepare, so you have to be patient and not looking for a “fix” and then the nearest exit. It is also much richer, and must be savoured instead of simply ingested. La Giralda also sells bars of their bitter baker’s chocolate, labelled as Fénix.

After sopping up the dregs of the hot chocolate with my last bite of churro – the spirited Friday afternoon conversation among my friends having died down – I began to decipher  the subtle charm of La Giralda. I turned my attention away from the spartan interior and watched the crowd feverishly scuttling along outside of the windows. There were no bells and whistles being used to draw in the teeming masses, just the essentials: good-natured service and delightful snacks.

As the leaves continue to curl and the mercury continues to drop, La Giralda presents an inviting option for the coming months. Bring some good company, close friends or a good read, hunker down for a while, and sip your way through a pleasant afternoon.

La Giralda is situated at Avenida Corrientes 1453. The bar is open from 6am to 11pm everyday of the week. The telephone number is 4371-3846.

When I first heard about the Plaza Bar, one of the 54 cafés notables, I immediately imagined one of those traditional confiterias where I could sit and taste a café con leche and a medialuna. But, before going there, my curiosity pushed me to have a look at its website and that’s how I discovered that my idea about the place was totally wrong.

Photo courtesy of Marriot Plaza Hotel

A panoramic view of the classy Plaza Bar.

Also, the thing that attracted my attention was not the photos but a short sentence: “Chosen by Forbes Magazine as one of the top nine hotel bars in the world, the Plaza Bar is considered among the best wine bars in Buenos Aires.” The images of a noisy café notable where the waiters bustles about serving coffees and where spoons make tinkling sounds in the background disappeared from my mind. Actually, the Plaza Bar is much more about sobriety and calm.

Located inside the Plaza Hotel (today known part of the Marriott Hotel chain), the bar opened in 1909. It quickly became a meeting point for the upper-class. Politicians and businessmen headed down there to sip a cocktail, smoke a cigar and hold conversations about politics, economics and religion. An unique venue in Buenos Aires.

For many decades, the Plaza Hotel was the only high standing hotel in town and its bar opened its door to the most famous political and economic leaders: to hold some people as an example, Charles de Gaulle, Edward Kennedy and Henry Ford walked into this mythical place. Also, until the 1980s, the bar remained a gentleman’s club where women were not allowed. The ladies used to meet in another venue called La Brasserie.

Photos by Brian Funk

Red leather upholstered chairs lined with brass give the Plaza Bar its antique and fancy character. The bartender showcases the impressive Plaza Bar drink menu.

Today, the bar still attracts a large number of businessmen who work in the business centre just a few blocks away. However, Buenos Aires has seen a lot of high standing hotels and bars emerging over the years, so the Plaza Bar now attracts many tourists from all around the world. People like to settle down after a long walk around the city centre and taste one of the cocktails. But I must be honest – a stop at the Plaza Bar is the cheapest option. Customers will have to spend $35 on average for a Bloody Mary or a Dry Cosmopolitan. They will also have to pay $25 to taste a ham and cheese sandwich or $42 for a salmon sandwich.

Never mind. Going to the Plaza Bar is most of all an enjoyment. People come looking for a cosy place where they can have a drink and admire the British pieces of decoration. Indeed everything has been directly imported from the UK: the bar, the tables and even the seating. Today, the decoration remains exactly the same and the Art-déco style gives to this venue an elegant and relaxing atmosphere.

This is probably the reason why the bar still welcomes a large number of afficionados. Despite the large range of tourists who usually stay for a short lapse of time, the Plaza Bar can also count on some customers who stick to this place. “These people come here because the bar is part of their memories. They keep in mind the time when they came with their father. It’s a place of traditions for them,” explained Vanessa, one of the waitresses who knows such customers’ tastes. “I always remember what they like to drink.”

After more than an hour spent there, my break at the Plaza Bar came to the end. I must say that I was impressed by the history. But the most surprising thing was to discover the number of bottles the bar owes. The cellar comprises almost a hundred thousand bottles of alcohol between imported and national brands. Also, people who have a passion for whisky will be able to choose among the forty-five brands on offer. As for the wine amateurs, they will take the time to glance at the menu to see the impressive list of Argentine and foreign wine… A menu that still brings to the bar its reputation after more than 100 years of existence.

PlazaBar sits on Florida 1005. Open from 9am to 1am. Website: www.marriott.com Tel: 4318 3000

Walk into El Progreso on any given day before 4pm and you will find the owner Licinia Tomas sat at a table in the corner as her ginger cat, Kitty, paces in between the legs of tables and coffee drinkers. Licinia, originally of Spanish descent, bought El Progreso with her husband about 30 years ago and it is now one of the 54 bares notables in Buenos Aires.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

Tomas at her usual table.

On the bar, there is a picture of her father’s bar in Asturias, Spain and she tells me that they tried to create a similar ambience in El Progreso. There are certainly similarities between the faded black and white picture and the reality of the cafe. She may not be able to perch on the bar any more, but she retains the same broad smile and just as there are bottles of liqueurs lined up on the shelf in her father’s bar, so you can find bottles of gin and whisky on display in El Progreso.

The broad windows of this imposing building gaze out onto the corner of Avenida Montes de Oca and California. As I sit there, mid-afternoon, the cold daylight filters in along with a variety of clientele. There seems to be no other form of lighting and the harsh sunlight on the white walls makes the place look quite bare. However, as I sip my coffee and eat my cold stewed apple, I notice the chequered floor and the display cases filled with Licinia’s trinkets and photos and this impression dissipates.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

The house cat.

More customers filter in as time passes and Licinia informs me that they are all locals that work in the nearby neighbourhood of Barracas. They very rarely receive tourists there, even though the cafe has been the location for film shoots. She proudly shows me a picture of her with the Paul Leduc, the director of ‘Cobrador’, as well as a variety of actors. The building has been preserved incredibly well and retains art deco features and a beautiful old wooden bar. It is also high-ceilinged and spacious, which is perhaps why I felt it was quite open and bare when I first turned up. I can see how, with its old features and such a sense of space, it would serve well as the setting for a film in Buenos Aires.

The cafe seems to be at the heart of the barrio – there are also pictures of Licinia with the Barracas football team, bearing the name of El Progreso on their football shirts and Licinia with some local schoolchildren. As I talk to Licinia, I discover that she loves Argentina and her barrio, even though she returns to Spain regularly. She loves the people, the food and she has always been happy here, earning the peso. She was even concerned about my experience of Argentina and was very satisfied to learn that I was having a good time. With this sort of affection, it is no wonder her cafe is a centre for locals to congregate.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

A neighborhood spot.

The clientele is a real mixture of old and young people, most of them in pairs or alone. They filter in to have a quiet chat over some food or take their coffee over the newspaper. Licinia tells me she likes her bar to be tranquilo. ‘This is a bar where you can read in peace. We never turn the television up and you can hear each other talking,’ she informs me. She describes with some relief how the bar used to be much busier and she and her husband would work day in and day out, until the local factories closed. Now she does not work and relies on her waiting staff, some of whom have been working there for around ten years. She seems to enjoy having a quiet bar where everyone knows her and greets her when they come in.

I was surprised that one of the 54 bares notables would have so few tourists in it, but I imagine this is in large part due to the location. Las Barracas has neither the antiques of San Telmo nor the colourful houses of La Boca and is quite far out from the centre of town.  Having said that, Barracas does have a few gems. Those who feel like exploring a lesser known part of Buenos Aires should take a wander around Calle Lanín, a colourful alternative to La Boca’s Caminito and see the old El Aguila chocolate factory.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

The counter, always stocked with photos.

Now that winter really is on its way, you can pop into El Progreso, get out of the wind and enjoy one of their submarinos. The cafe offers standard porteño snacks and cafe fare. Coffee and postres for two will set you back around $24. It may seem out of the way, but it really is a good opportunity to sit in peace for a few hours, whilst still feeling like you are enjoying something of Buenos Aires. And if you haven’t brought a book, there is a collection of Borges books available for Spanish readers and Kitty will keep you company.

El Progreso is situated on Av. Montes de Oca 1702 and is open Monday to Saturday. For more information, visit: www.barelprogreso.com.ar

Photo by Rosalie Smith

At first glance, El Hipopótamo looks similar to any of the other locations on the government’s list of 54 Bares notables de Buenos Aires. Founded in 1909, it has the typical panelling, broad wooden counter and old photographs and placards covering the walls that you would find in any of the city’s historical bars. However, although it seems to fit right into the list, it has a spark of irreverence that makes it stand out. It’s working-class roots, its name and, most importantly, the attitude of the bar staff give the bar an attractive rebellious streak, which makes it irresistible.

El Hipopótamo was founded in the south of San Telmo, on the corner of Parque Lezama, as a bar and general store for the neighbourhood’s dock workers. A typical working-class locale, dockers would come into the bar every day on their breaks to drink, eat and chat. Since the bar’s early days, the typical clients have changed, mirroring the developments that took place in San Telmo as a whole: from being a typical working-class area at the turn of the last century, over time, due partly to the closing of the commercial port, the barrio has become gentrified and popular with tourists. This is reflected in El Hipopótamo’s customers, who are no longer the old-school dockers of the 30s and 40s. However, even now the café is far enough south to avoid the bulk of the San Telmo tourist trade, and the waitress Ana Sala, tells me that there still are a few elderly clients who are regulars, and who originally came with their parents over 70 years ago.

Photos by Rosalie Smith

As well as holding on to some of its old customers, the bar stays true to its local roots in terms of the food it serves. The house speciality is the picada, a varied selection of cold meats and cheeses typical of Argentina, costing $30 for one person, or $42 for two. The bar unapologetically serves traditional local meats, including tongue, tripe and other unusual cuts of beef. Whether or not this is what you would usually order at a restaurant, it’s worth taking the risk here to get the full El Hipopótamo experience. Moreover, thanks partly to its original Galician owners, the bar is one of the few places in the city that sells cider on tap, and also offers excellent beer. Although El Hipopótamo also serves more conventional food, this tends to be less special, and it is the hearty, traditional fare that is worth trying.

Not only the food, but also the name of the café makes it stand out. When it was originally founded it was known as Estrella del Sur (perhaps reflecting its maritime roots) and was later named Don Pedro after the monument in the neighbouring Park Lezama. However, about 30 years ago one of the owners renamed it El Hipopótamo after a stylish and expensive high-society bar popular in Buenos Aires at the time. Ana the waitress tells me that the name was a bit of a joke, because the original location, which she describes as “very fine and bit snobby” had so little to do with this workers café.

At first the bar was re-christened El Hippopotamus, so it would not be confused with its namesake. However, the more stylish establishment closed and the San Telmo bar was able to adopt its current Spanish title. More than anything, the changing name reflects a very attractive rebellious streak in the bar, as it thumbs its nose at the Argentine establishment. . Today, a huge concrete statue of a hippopotamus still sits on a cabinet in the centre of the bar, sharing in the joke.

Photos by Rosalie Smith

The cheekiness of the hippopotamus is more than reflected in the attitude of the bar staff. When I asked Ana what she thought of the locale being on the list of bares notables, she gave me her honest opinion: “On the one hand, it’s a type of recognition. On the other hand…it doesn’t help at all. It’s like you want to change something, and because it’s a bar notable…you’re not allowed to.” She says that government officials come to the bar almost every day and she dislikes the sort of petty attitude they display when they inspect the premises: “”Why is this here and why is this there…?’ They look at the employees and tell them to wear hats in case a hair falls out of place. And this happens every day.”

More than the hassle of the inspections, Ana says she objects to the fact that the bar is expected to pay fines every time something is not to the government’s liking: “the only thing that interests them is money,” she complains to me. Moreover, she is suspicious of where these funds actually go, saying that despite government officials levying heavy charges in all sorts of aspects of everyday life, the city hospitals still don’t have the necessary equipment to run properly and that if you visit a public school “it’s a disaster”.

Despite Ana’s objections to the concept, its clear that El Hipopótamo fits well on the list of bares notables, at least as far as appearances go. With over 100 years of local history, it has also been host to a number of famous clients including the actress Tita Merello, writer Osvaldo Soriano, and actor Ulises Dumont. Moreover, it’s been the setting for a number of adverts and films, and when you see the picturesque interior you understand why. However, it’s the warm atmosphere in the bar, the frank, friendly attitude of the staff and the sense of cheerful irreverence that makes El Hipopótamo really special. In the end, you shouldn’t come here because it is a bar notable; come because it’s more than that.

El Hipopótamo is on Brasil 401 (corner of Defensa) The bar is open from 7am-2am Sunday to Thursday and 7am-4am Friday and Saturday.

It’s easy to become lazy in Buenos Aires. In central areas such as Recoleta, San Telmo and Palermo you are only stumbling distance from an array of excellent restaurants and bars. However, whilst continuing The Argentina Independent’ review of the 54 historic and notable bars of Buenos Aires, I discovered that straying a little further afield can be extremely rewarding. Tucked away in the quiet and pretty neighbourhood of Villa Devoto, is Café de García. This joint is really something special.

Photos by Brian Funk

An antique paradise behind the bar in Café de García.

Run by Ruben García and his brother Hugo, the café sits proudly on the corner of Sanabria and José Pedro Varela. It was first opened in 1937 as a small café, but was increased to the size it is today in 1943. In 1950 Ruben’s parents bought the café and ran it as a family business until they sold up 1968. In 1982 the García brothers bought the bar back and have run it ever since. Ruben tells me that very little has changed about the place since the early 1980s and, “we won’t be changing much in the future”.

Spending time in Café de García is a history buff’s dream, or should that be collector’s dream, or perhaps photographer’s, or football fan’s. You name it, whatever you’re in to; Café de García has something for you. Covering the walls of the main room are photographs and pictures of famous customers (including Francis Ford Coppola), an Argentine football shirt signed by Diego Maradona, radios from the 1930s and 40s, a row of cured and salted hams hang from the ceiling and the list goes on. Somehow it isn’t imposing or crass, but utterly fascinating. I’ve visited many ‘theme’ pubs who buy in memorabilia to decorate their establishments – Café de García is the genuine article. Ruben says that many of the objects adorning the walls are gifts from customers and visitors. It certainly makes sense that such an eclectic mix of objects should have come from many sources.

As you walk into Café de García you immediately notice the black and white chequered floor that makes you feel a little as if you’ve walked into a giant board game. This isn’t too far from the truth as games definitely play a major part in the life of this bar. Two beautiful billiard tables sit towards the back of the main room and on the walls lockers guard the cues for regular players. As I sat soaking up my surroundings, a couple of guys started up a game and the sound of the cues hitting the balls resonated around the large and airy room.

Photos by Brian Funk

Antique decorations in the unique Café de García bar in Villa Devoto, Buenos Aires.

Tucked away off the main room is the ‘Metodio y Carolina’ annex, named in memory of the brothers’ parents. This room is where the serious collectibles and mementos are displayed and also where customers are allowed to smoke. On the walls I discovered a copy of the Argentine constitution, some Garcia family photographs, old cutlery, jugs, locks and the odd head of a small animal. I’m sure that every visitor has a unique experience when they walk in to the annex and when full of people and swirls of smoke, you could imagine you have stepped back into another era.

Even going to the bathroom in Café de García is an experience. To reach the ladies, you pass  some old ticket machines from buses (complete with tickets) , several old fashioned radios hang above you from the ceiling and the bathroom itself is full of more interesting bits and bobs to look at. In a room beside the kitchen, Ruben showed me his workbench and tools; here he carefully restores some of the donated objects and fixes anything that’s broken in the bar.

This is definitely a bar for everyone. Ruben states that the café attracts all different types of customers; men who had lost their wives, sit silently, sipping a coffee and watching the world go by; young guys who turn up to watch a football game or play a game of pool; and families and groups of friends come to catch-up over the cafe’s famous picadas. The picadas especiales are available on Thursday to Saturday from 8pm to 11pm and you are advised to make a reservation. For $80 you are treated to 30 tapas-style dishes, a glass of sparkling wine, a dessert and coffee. The rest of the week there are three or four choices of main meals a day and, if you don’t have time to eat a full meal, I’d recommend a slice of mascarpone lemon cheesecake and coffee.

Photos by Brian Funk

Two bar regulars have a drink and play some pool in Café de García.

Café de García is a proud place, proud of the community around it proud of its history and heritage and proud of the customers who frequent it. During my visit Ruben greeted most people as they walked through the door. This is a local’s bar, but as a visitor to Buenos Aires, I don’t think it would take too long before Ruben and his staff made you feel like a local too. On the back of the menu for the picadas especiales you will find the café’s motto: “The place, the corner, the night, the climate, the style, the people, the history, the passion, the sport, the newspaper, the coffee, the picadas, the tango, the billiards, the drink – Cafe de Garcia”. I think this is an excellent summary of what this wonderful place is all about.

Sanabria and José Pedro Varela, reservations 4501-5912. For more information visit www.cafedegarcia.com.ar. The picadas especiales are served Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 8-11pm and it is necessary to reserve ahead.

Photos by Rosalie Smith

Businessmen having their early morning coffee.

Among the 54 notable bars of the city, comes up London City Bar… When I heard the name for the first time, I immediately imagined one of those bars in central London full of well-dressed traders who head down there after work to sip their beer and chat about football.

But back in Buenos Aires, the reality is slightly different. The concept remains the same, apart from the fact that coffee and medialunas stand in for beers and crackers. Also customers put aside conversations about sport. Actually, as soon as I walked in the London City Bar, I realised that the café is more a venue for professional meetings than a hangout for football and rugby fans. Excellent! At least I didn’t feel obliged to know the latest matches results.

Once seated, I briefly looked around me, trying to find some elements of decoration that could attract my attention. At this point, the only thing that I could stare at was the smoking room. At the back of the bar there is a cubic box where customers can enjoy their coffee and cigarette without puffing smoke on their non-smoker neighbours. A good venue for smokers then as they don’t get upstaged and are not pushed outside every time they want to take a drag on their cigarette. Non-smokers will also appreciate the concept.

But apart from this organisation that I found interesting, I must admit that London City Bar is definitely not the most impressive bar of Buenos Aires. No specific design, no high quality service and no extraordinary menu. Also, the pale colours of the waiters’ uniforms made me think that the bar became worn with the passing years.

However, the confiteria received the prestigious appellation “café notable” in 2000 by the commission for the protection of cafés, bars and confiterias in Buenos Aires. Is there a good reason behind this? I’m not entirely sure.

Photos by Rosalie Smith

Above: The smoker’s room, which was very smokey.

Opened in September 1954, London City Bar – commonly called ‘La London’ – became a meeting point for the local artists. Thus, the young writer Julio Cortazar found there the inspiration to write one of his most famous novels: ‘Los Premios’. As homage, the author quoted the bar many times in his book.

Nowadays, ‘La London’ attracts mainly people who work nearby and some tourists. They usually come to sip a cafe con leche. The famous beverage remains affordable: $10. As for me, I remained faithfully to my English influences and opted for a cup of green tea. Also, I tried to resist and not to glance at the medialunas but the temptation got the upper hand! And I must confess that I didn’t regret it: the pastries were amazingly buttery and tasty. I paid $12 in total. But despite some sandwiches, some salads and some desserts that came to fulfil the pages, the menu didn’t offer much more, unfortunately.

I finally left London City Bar, thinking that I could have been in any other bar of Buenos Aires and get the same service. Even though the waiters remain friendly and the medialunas delicious, I’m still wondering why ‘La London’ is part of the “cafés notables”.

London City Bar sits on the corner of Av. de May 599 and Perú. Visit www.londoncitybar.com.ar for more information, or call: 4342 9057.

Photos by Beatrice Murch

There is one entry on the list of 54 Bares Notables de Buenos Aires, which adds a little spice to the mix. This is El Gato Negro, which originally opened in the 1920s as a retailer of exotic herbs and spices. Today it functions as a café, while still continuing to sell one of the most specialised ranges of spices, teas, coffees, condiments and sugars in the city.

El Gato Negro was founded in 1927 by a Spaniard named Victoriano López Robredo, who moved to Buenos Aires after living in the Far East for 40 years. Working for a British company, López stayed in Ceylon, Singapore and the Philippines, travelled around Malaysia and Manchuria and finally returned to Europe on the Trans-Siberian Express. After arriving in Argentina, López opened El Gato Negro, a shop where he could sell all the exotic goods that he’d come into contact with during his time abroad. Indeed, there is reason to believe that López’s journey on the train through Siberia inspired him directly to open the café, as some people say that the logo of the black cat was taken from the front of the menu in the dining car.  However, another view is that El Gato Negro was named after a famous romantic café in Madrid, so that even though it sold spices from across the globe, for many Spaniards living in Buenos Aires in the ‘20s it also represented a little slice of home.

Whether the inspiration for the black cat logo came from the Far East or Spain, the café preserves its international flavour – quite literally – through the vast range of spices from all over the world that are available to buy here. The selection is impressive, offering everything from aniseed to za’atar (a combination of middle eastern herbs, spices and sesame seeds). Indeed, in many cases El Gato Negro is the only place in Buenos Aires where certain exotic flavourings are available, so if you are planning on doing any non-Argentine cooking then this is the place to come.

One reason that the range of goods here is so extensive is the interest of the founder’s son. Benigno Andréa López Robredo took over the café after his father, and worked extensively with the spices, mixing them himself, coming up with new formulas and writing his own recipes. He insisted that the goods be imported whole and ground by the workers in the shop in order to preserve their freshness. Benigno’s obsession with the quality of the seasonings can still be felt today: as soon as you walk in the door the smell of freshly-ground spice is the first thing that hits you.

Spices don’t just make up the history of the café, they also define it’s interior. Jars and jars of them line the wall behind the café’s large wooden counter and are stacked on shelves stretching up to the ceiling. The bar preserves its original architecture from the 1920’s, with tall, art deco style shelves and a broad wooden counter, which makes it look rather like an old-fashioned sweet shop. It’s worth noting that the store is quite small and the little, round tables only admit two or three people, so if you’re planning on popping in for a coffee, it’s better to come with a select couple of friends rather than a large group of people. However, the fact that space is limited makes the café’s atmosphere a little more intimate, and the experience of sipping your coffee a little cosier.

Photos by Beatrice Murch

And that coffee is wonderful! As you would expect, the range is wide and not only can you try different brews from around the world, you can also sample infusions of coffee and spices. I tried a cardamom coffee ($10) and my friend had a café al jenibre ($11), a combination of coffee, cream, ginger, honey and cinnamon. Forget every flavoured latte you’re ever drunk in Starbucks – the spices here are unbelievably fresh, and the aromas are strong yet mellow. The choice of teas is also extensive, and there is a large selection of cakes. We tried the chocolate brownie (stunningly moist and rich) and the coconut and dulce de leche slice (crumbly, sweet and gooey). Considering the quality of the ingredients, prices in El Gato Negro are reasonable: an ordinary coffee costs just $6. Some of the more exotic brands are pricier (a specialised Kenyan coffee is $14) but it’s certainly possible to eat here on a budget.

If the food itself isn’t enough for you, the café is also host to a number of cultural events, including concerts and book readings. Music shows only take place a few times a year, but public readings are more regular. Unfortunately information about upcoming events is not available on the website, so if you want to know about any future shows you have to call the café or pop down there yourself.

All in all, whether it’s food, coffee or culture that you’re looking for, El Gato Negro is a great place to come and spice up your routine!

El Gato Negro is in Corrientes, Av. 1669. Tel: 4374-1730 Website: www.elgatonegronet.com.ar. Opening hours: Mon 9am–10pm, Tue 9am–11pm, Wed 9am–midnight, Thur-Sat 9am–2am

Tucked away amongst the many bars and restaurants of Palermo is a slice of the old world. El Preferido is one of the 54 bars and restaurants notables of Buenos Aires and in my opinion it definitely deserves a place on the list. This family run business has charm, warmth and an extensive menu. Whether you’re looking for a quick bite to eat or a sit down meal, El Preferido will provide.

Photo by Pavel Ezrohi

Martín Suarez taking a break during a down period.

It was in 1951 that Arturo Fernández, the current owner, arrived in Argentina with his family from Asturias, Spain. In 1952 his father started working at the El Preferido Almacen, a popular general store, providing goods to the neighbourhood of Palermo. Arturo still remembers running deliveries of sugar to homes in the local area. With the arrival of large brand supermarkets into Buenos Aires, the local almacenes soon began to disappear. Instead of shutting up shop, Arturo and his family transformed the store into a quick eat bistro.

Today the restaurant is split into two parts; the informal, high-tabled, quick eatery and a more traditional restaurant in an adjacent room. The informal bistro still retains the original interior of the old grocery store. The walls are decorated with large jars of pickled vegetables and bottles of alcohol, all of which are used in the bustling restaurant. There are still a few items available for purchase, including some large pots of dulce de leche or for a souvenir, an El Preferido calendar. The restaurant next door feels like it hasn’t changed much over the years. The tables are decorated with red and white table clothes, large chandeliers hang from the ceiling and shields with the emblems of Spanish families adorn the walls alongside photographs and memorabilia depicting the favourite football teams of the waiters. The ambience is very relaxed and the friendly waiters are more than happy to explain the menu and recommend dishes.

El Preferido has remained a family run business and today Arturo’s nephew Martín Suarez works the front of house with Arturo, whilst his niece Florencia Suarez manages the kitchen with Arturo’s wife, María del Carmen. Family run restaurants often have the ability to make you feel relaxed and at home and El Preferido is no exception.

It is difficult to know where to start with the food, as the menu is vast. On the bistro side you can pick up a generous sized main for $25. The restaurant menu is a little more expensive and delicious plate of salmon rosado con papas natural was $80 (for two). If you are craving a change from a traditional Argentine parillia then this is the place for you. Arturo and his family brought all their inspiration from their home in Asturias, Spain and the food has retained the Spanish influence. The large plates of paella look especially appetising and the seafood and fish options are impressive. A recommended dish is vaska style tuna fish, which unfortunately was unavailable on my visit. If you cannot do without your red meat then do not fret, there is plenty here for you. The stroganoff sirloin, kidneys in sherry sauce and Spanish style veal are amongst the many specialities. Other favourites of the house are Asturian style lentils, meatballs with rice and did I mention the seafood!

I would highly recommend planning your desert at the start of your meal. The speciality is an apple pancake, which is a thick and luxurious affair. They are made to order and need 40 minutes to prepare, so it’s worth planning ahead and saving some room for this delicious postre.

Photo by Pavel Ezrohi

The unique El Preferido decor.

Every time I’ve visited, both parts of the restaurant have been heaving with a predominately local clientele. It’s clearly a popular choice and they have even had the odd famous customer; both Francis Ford Coppola and William Defoe have dropped by in the past. I don’t think that El Preferido would claim to have a cordon bleu menu, but that’s not really the point of this restaurant. Good home cooked food with a warm and friendly atmosphere is what Arturo, Martin and the rest of the El Preferido family aim to achieve. And this they certainly do with some seriously good value and wholesome food.

Jorge L. Borges 2108 Tel: 4774-6585, Monday to Saturday, 8am-11pm, deliveries available