If it’s true that we are what we eat, then why not know the story behind the food we consume?

Farmers markets are all different but most of them have a common objective: To improve people’s lives by providing quality food from independent producers directly to the consumer. Whilst organic certification is costly to come by, many suppliers work on a trust basis and not only farm organically, but also avoid toxic additives, promote intelligent food consumption such as fair trade, and try to reduce carbon emissions and boost recycling. Most importantly, as Federico Arce from El Galpón says: “To let people know the story of the food they are eating, it’s important that they know what they are consuming.” Bravo!

There are plenty of markets to be found in and around Buenos Aires, but this week’s Top 5 aims to bring you the Farmers Markets dearest to our hearts.

Fruit for sale at El Galpon (Photo: Brian Funk)

1. El Galpón de Chacarita

Number one in our Top 5, El Galpón in Chacarita is a hippie market that is both quirky and stylish at the same time. You come in through a free parking area, nestled between old rusty train tracks, to a bright yellow barn, an organic fruit and vegetable allotment and an outdoor barbeque and restaurant serving agro-toxic free meat.

The colourful interior has lime green tablecloths with flower arrangements that compete for your attention against various paintings and posters of The Beatles. Better than all of this, you feel like taking your shoes off and enjoying the positive vibe in a place where everyone smiles and takes the time to chat to you.

Created by former political prisoners, El Galpón is now a cooperative, where stalls all work together to maintain and provide for the space. They even contribute to the creation of homegrown compost to be used in the allotment.

But El Galpón had a rough start. “People didn’t used to want to come here because of the neighbouring slum, and the fact that they couldn’t see what is in here from the street,” says Victoria Angarita, who sells organic coffee from Full City Coffee House. “But now we have home delivery and word has spread about what we do.”

Walking around you will find food that is portioned and wrapped in recycled paper, aromatherapy incense sticks, homemade ice creams, washable and ecological feminine pads and a great variety of organic food. You choose what you want to buy, pay at a common till and collect your purchases at the end. And you can shop happily knowing that a portion of the profits go towards the maintenance of the barn. Just don’t forget to collect your purchases!

Wednesday and Saturday 9am to 6pm. For more information, click here.

Dietetica at Mercado Bonpland (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

2. Mercado Solidario Bonpland

There are two words to describe this market: community feel.

As you walk in, the sweet aroma of flowers from the florist at the entrance invades your senses and as you glide through stalls selling homemade wine, biodegradable washing powder, natural creams, nuts, granola and more, you can tell the workers are happy to be there.

“This is not just a job,” said Juan Pablo Pereira, one of the vendors from CECOPAF, an organisation that supports small scale agriculture. “This is a positive statement that we fight for better pay and working conditions to all farmers.”

What sets Bonpland market apart from the rest is its support of community projects. One of the shops is operated by a group of volunteers that run the Movimiento Popular La Dignidade, an NGO that works at improving the lives of disadvantaged people.

The sale of handmade clothes in the shop, fundraising events and public funds all help to support four free nurseries, after school tutorials, food charity programmes and an online television channel.

At the far end of the market, a door leads to the adjoining Bonpland Cultural Centre where the NGO works, but also where local gatherings happen. A community room hosts several social activities such as singing and yoga lessons or art and drama workshops, operated on a donations basis for anyone wishing to join in.

Fridays and Saturdays 10am to 8pm. For more information, click here.

Tofu Pates by Alejandro (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

3. Mercado Natural Punto Verde

Mercado Natural Punto Verde only opened at the beginning of this year and, as the smallest of our selection, satisfies the saying “it’s not size that matters, but what you do with it”.

In this case, it’s a clean, feminine place, and the most holistic of all. The food here is magnificent, from the ready-made mouth watering (flour-free, egg-free, milk-free and fat-free) wraps and delicious wheat-grass juices, to tofu pates and organic whole-wheat empanadas. The homemade chocolates are divine.

Beyond food and a basic fruit and vegetable section, you will also find meditation books, crystals and additive-free cosmetics. Patricia Oulton, who works at one of the stalls, also works with alternative therapies including Kirlian photography diagnostics and bio-energetic massages, which she will happily talk to you about.

This is a child-friendly zone, where kids can play with crayons and sheets of paper provided for them on tables in the middle of the market, and you can shop away.

The space offers clowning workshops from Monday to Thursday.

Fridays and Saturdays 10am to 7pm. For more information, click here.

Sabe la Tierra at San Fernando station on the Tren de la Costa (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

4. Sabe La Tierra

Hats off to this market: It’s charming and, if you live in the centre of Buenos Aires, the most exciting part of it is the journey to get there. Located in San Fernando train station along the route of the Tren de La Costa that takes you to Tigre – it’s a perfect excuse for a day out of the hustle and bustle of the city.

While sat on the train your eyes will glow at the sight of miniature stations, local parks, children’s playgrounds, traditional restaurants, tree lined avenues, suburban houses and mansions. You’ll either feel like you’re instantly on holiday, or lost in the perfect suburbia of the Stepford Wives.

In my case, as soon as I arrived I’d received invitations to move in with an alternative Christian community, join a yoga class, and sample several different types of organic honey. As a kind of connoisseur, I have to say it was the best I’ve tried from this Top 5!

“Our idea is to take care of our lands and take care of our bodies,” said Pablo Barrio, seller at Sol7 stall.

The market is bigger on Saturdays but you’ll find it less crowded on Wednesdays.

Wednesdays 10am to 4pm and Saturdays 10am to 6pm. For more information, click here.

The greenhouse and farm at Taller Verde (photo courtesy of Taller Verde)

5. Shop Online Delivery Services

If markets aren’t your favourite way to shop, or you live far from a farmers market but you’d still like to eat freshly produced food with a conscience – not to worry! A selection of websites including Tallo Verde, De la Huerta a su Mesa, and Puente del Sur, sell a variety of products from small, independent local producers and will deliver to your doorstep. The drawback is that you need to allow at least two days for your delivery to arrive, but it’s these two days that enable them to reach farmers directly and get the freshest foods.

Setting up a regular order is a good idea since to care for the environment, most have a minimum purchase amount and operate a rotation system delivering to the different areas of Buenos Aires on different days. Whilst you might get a little lost with the variety of products they have on offer, at least you won’t be short of options.

Some of the websites even feature recipes to help you turn your new non-toxic ingredients into delicious treats.

To shop online or over the telephone, with delivery to your door, we recommend visiting talloverde.com, delahuertaasumesa.blogspot.com or puentedelsurcoop.com.ar

Caligiore vinyard at the base of the Andes (courtesy of Caligore)

Think Argentine wine and the first words that come to mind are malbec and Mendoza. But Argentine wine is much more than the the mass-produced vino de mesa from the 1960s and 1970s. In fact, the quality of wine has become so high that vines of malbec are being exported back to France from where they originated. And a white wine, torrontés – which is grown in the higher altitudes of Salta province – has grown to become another signature grape of Argentine wine. More recently, the country’s pinot noirs from the cooler Patagonia region have earned an international reputation.

The remote location of Argentina’s wine-growing areas – either at the foot of mountains or in the centre of a desert – provides natural deterrent to the dreaded phylloxera and other diseases, and thus reducing the need to use chemicals to fend off the bugs. This positions Argentina ideally to take advantage of the current rush in the wine-making world to produce organic and biodynamic wines.

So what is the difference in production methods? What does organic and biodynamic actually mean? Vines of an organic wine are grown without the use of artificial chemical fertilisers, pesticides, fungicides and herbicides. Only yeast naturally occurring in the grape is used to induce fermentation. Biodynamics takes organic farming to a higher, spiritual level. Based on the influence of the universe on life, for example the waning and the waxing of the moon, vines are tended in accordance with an astrological cycle. Combined with harmonising the soil and the vine, the theory is that it improves grape quality.

Sustainable wine production is a current buzz word. For example, the use of composting and the cultivation of plants that attract insects that are beneficial to the health of the vines.

In terms of quality, organic wines can be weaker than traditional wines as they rely on the grape’s natural acidity and yeast to produce alcohol. To compensate for this, wine makers leave the grape longer on the vine to attain higher sugar levels and thus producing a richer style wine with a higher alcohol content. Organic wines are described by some as being more complex, and more balanced.

Studies also highlight heath benefits of organic wines, since the grapes contain twice as much resveratrol, which acts as an antioxidant and provide protection against cancers.

So, here we look at five wine producers who are pioneering organic and biodynamic wine production in Argentina.

Grapes on the vine at Bodega Colomé

1) Bodega Colomé

Cafayate in Salta province is a relatively new name in the wine world outside of Argentina, and its altitude suits the torrontés varietal. The Upper Calchaquí Valleys, where Colomé is based, is one of the highest vine-growing areas in the world, with its four vineyards at altitudes of between 2,300 and 3,111 metres above sea level. The result is that grapes have higher exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays makes the grape generate a thicker and darker skin to protect itself from the rays. This, combined with the large temperature range at such altitude,  produces a higher concentration of balanced aromas, colours and flavours.

Founded in 1831, it is the oldest still-functioning bodega in Argentina, and the original cabernet sauvignon and malbec vines produce Colomé’s top-end wines, with prices starting at $120. Its operations are both organic and biodynamic. Soil is fertilised from the bodega’s farm and vegetable garden (which also supply the in-house restaurant and hotel) while all procedures are planned around the movement of the sun and planets.

Several wines are available in Buenos Aires, and luckily there are cheaper options. Priced at $50 and rated 90 by Robert Parker, the torrontés is easily accessible as even my amateur palate can distinguish the citric orange flavour for which it is renowned.

If you have a chance to visit the bodega, opening hours are 10am to 6pm. For further information, visit their website.

Bodega Chacra

2) Bodega Chacra

Patagonia is not a region well-known for its wines, but since the mid-1990s increasing numbers of wine entrepreneurs have ventured as far south as 39° latitude and planted new plots. Wine has in fact been produced in the area since the late 19th century, and Pierro Incisa della Rocchetta has carved itself a niche by tapping into this history and purchasing fincas planted with pinot noir in 1932 and 1955. With the addition of newly-planted chardonnay, Chacra takes advantage of the higher soil chalk content and the cooler climate – ideal conditions for both varietals.

Located in the desert of the Río Negro valley, it is situated in an oasis created by channelling snow melt from the Andes. The desert provides a natural barrier to the dreaded phylloxera and other diseases, and the reliable climate allows wines of a consistent quality to be produced year after year.

Rocchetta only uses specific natural and biodynamic winemaking methods. Of his top-rated wine, aptly named Treinta y Dos, only 7,000 bottles are produced annually. It is described as “highly focused”, “fresh and vibrant”, and as having “raspberry characters on the finish”. And this dedication to quality comes at a price – think $140 for the entry level Barda to $460 for the Treinta Y Dos.

For further information, visit their website.

Golden leaves on the vines at Bodega Krontiras

3) Krontiras

In 2003, Constantinos Krontiras acquired a seven hectare, 80-year-old finca in Lújan de Cuyo near Mendoza with the aim of creating a bodega to showcase Argentine wine overseas and to prove its export potential. He planted  new vines in 2001 and the first organic wines were produced in 2009. The bodega is moving towards fully biodynamic production in the next few years.

Renowned winemaker Panos Zouboulis said: “While in Greece with native vines producing wines suitable for every terroir, in Mendoza we have the optimal altitude and climate which, combined with the age of the vineyards, allows us to achieve the best expression of Malbec.”

Krontiras currently produces only 6,000 bottles of Doña Silvina Reserva and 7,500 of Doña Silvina, both malbecs. As newly planted fincas mature, production is planned to increase considerably, in terms of quantity and variety – petit verdot, tempranillo and chardonnay varietals have all been planted and are nearing maturity. Wine production relies totally on gravity flow in the state-of-the-art winery, using the natural slope of the hill to full effect.

Originally producing wine solely for export, his wine is now rated locally and can be found in some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires.

For further information, visit their website.

Organic Malbec in production at Caligiore

4) Caligiore

Founded in 2001, Caligiore is based in Lújan de Cuyo near Mendoza. Winemaker Gustavo Caligiore places a strong emphasis on sustainability: “Organic viticulture helps preserve the character of old vines in Mendoza. It follows many goals, but environmental sustainability is key. By preserving the fertility of soils, water and air quality through natural equilibriums and biodiversity, the plants are well-nourished and you have a healthy ecosystem.”

Indeed, some of the vines used by Caligiore are more than 75 years old and so the emphasis on longevity is high on the list of priorities. Caligiore wines are regarded as having depth and concentration, and it is one of the few bodegas to produce a range of wines using the bonarda varietal – a personal favourite of mine as it is a perfect accompaniment to a large bife de lomo. And, despite a modest 79/100 rating by Wine Spectator, I find its big smoky flavour to be a relaxing, sit-back-in-your-chair, break to chewing off chunks of carne. Caligiore’s malbecs receive greater praise from critics, consistently scoring over 90 points.

The Caligiore motto is: “The soul of the land turns into wine.” I would add: “And then into a big evening meal out.”

For further information, visit their website.

Selecting the perfect grapes for Vinecol wines

5) Vinecol

“Man and nature together.” This is the motto of Vinecol, a bodega situated next to the UNESCO Bioshpere Reserve Ñacuñan near La Paz in eastern Mendoza. A project launched in 2000, the finca is 80 hectares in size and is planted with a range of grapes from cabernet sauvignon and bonarda to chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.

Vinecol combine organic growing techniques with the latest in grape-processing technologies. So, while the vines are drip and surface irrigated, and picked and selected by hand, they take advantage of the latest Italian and Spanish machinery to process the grapes, including stem grinders, peristaltic pumps, stainless steel harvest exchangers and pneumatic presses.

It is clearly a process that produces results – its Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 won the gold medal at the 2009 Bio Fach international organic wine competition in Germany, while its Malbec Oak Reserve 2008 won a silver a year later.

Vinecol is also involved in La Paz community projects. They run a school program educating children in the province about sustainable agriculture and deforestation. And they’ve won provincial awards for local agricultural development.

Above the cellar is a banner saying: “Only things that render genuine feelings last the test of time.” With the care taken with the environment and the quality of its produce, Vinecol will be producing organic wine for many years to come.

For further information, visit their website. Prices from $80.

Painting the ecobolsas (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Sunday 5th June El Galpón farmers’ market in Chacarita played host to celebrations for World Environment Day, organised by Ambientate. The day-long event included, among other things, an array of bands, a bicycle fashion show and some excellent organic food.

The wide range of groups who took part give us a good snapshot of Argentina’s fledgling ecological movement. One of the most interesting of these groups was EcoBolsas. A cooperative for social inclusion, it trains homeless people to make sustainably produced bags, providing them with skills and employment while helping to reduce our reliance on plastic bags.

A clothes swap aimed to raise awareness of the huge environmental impact of producing clothing and show how making responsible choices can dramatically reduce our carbon footprint. They highlighted how by re-using the wealth of unused clothing in circulation instead of buying new we can avoid consuming ever more raw materials.

Another hidden, but considerable, contributor to our carbon footprint is in what we eat. Alicia Bersi was on hand to demonstrate the benefits of a more sustainable diet: choosing organic, buying from local producers, and reducing our meat consumption. For example, producing one kilogram of meat emits twelve to fourteen times the amount of carbon as does producing one kilogram of apples. Bersi was also distributing delicious vegetarian recipes to help win over those reluctant to give up their carne.

Attempting to bring these promising green shoots together into a credible force for change were Ambientate, an umbrella group for the environmental movement in Argentina. Organisers of the event, they also helped make Argentina the first country in Latin America to sign up to the global 10:10 movement to reduce carbon emissions.

Wherever you find politics in Argentina music is never far away, and a selection of bands played to entertain visitors and spread awareness throughout the day. The Indy spoke to members of Sueños de Libertad and Tres Arroyos to ask what World Environment Day meant to them.

Tres Arroyos playing in the cool evening event (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Lukas from Sueños de Libertad underlined why, as artists, they felt so proud to be involved, because “the movement to protect the environment is the only cause we have to care about absolutely, because if there’s no world, there’s no life. And if there’s no life, there’s no art.”

But their views echoed a consensus that eco-consciousness as a nation was low, and that big corporations, soya farmers and an unwilling government were among the biggest threats to protecting the environment in Argentina.

However, when asked if they had hope for a greener future all answered a resounding “yes,” confident awareness was increasing. Fernando from 3 Arroyos emphasised “this is why we play: to keep the fire behind the movement going.”

Argentina’s greener future looks set to arrive on two wheels, as the evening was dominated by cycling groups. The monthly Critical Mass bike ride was re-routed to El Galpón and the evening saw the event invaded by an army of cyclists. One of the groups who pedalled along were Fabricicleta, a non-profit workshop who provide free bicycle repair and instruction on cycle maintenance. The project also find abandoned bikes, work to repair them, and then pass them on free of charge to anyone looking for a carbon neutral method of transport.

Rolling down the runway of the biciconga (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Representatives of the city government’s Mejor en Bici were also on hand to demonstrate how through the construction of a comprehensive network of bicisendas they are putting the bike at the heart of Buenos Aires’ transport policy.

But the highlight of the day was Biciconga‘s hugely entertaining cycle fashion show. Through their imaginative and unique events they aim to spread a love of cycling. They bring people together and show that the bike is even more than just a free, green, and healthy way to get around.

Biciconga’s message echoed that of the event as a whole: that being green is about more than just hard choices, it is about joining a vibrant community of cool and creative people who want to come together to share the embrace of a better way of life.

If your summer has been full of choripan and asados, it might be time to put down the steak knife and consider a healthier option. Green-minded restaurants that make veggies fun have been springing up all over Buenos Aires. It’s about exciting new flavors that don’t wreak havoc on your health. If you want to clean up your eating habits or are just looking for a new dining experience in this city of red meats, here are some restaurants you should definitely try.

Kensho interior (Photo: Rafa Lopez Binaghi)

1.  Kensho, Palermo

In Zen Buddhism, Kensho is the direct and intimate experience of enlightenment. In Palermo, Kensho is an awakening into the world of gourmet vegetarian dining. The food is creative, and beautifully presented. Everything is vegetarian but many things are also vegan, and some are raw food. If you’ve never experienced raw food, lose that innocence at Kensho. The raw-food picada for two, $60, combines familiar flavors with an unfamiliar preparation – nothing cooked above 38 degrees. The philosophy holds that anything heated above that temperature has lost most of it’s nutritional value. The dish has a raw spin on chorizo – made of nuts and seaweed, a cashew cheese that is to-die-for, and variations on falafel and paté. The Kensho menu is organic, and changes with the season – the promise of new dished and flavors will keep you coming back year-round.

Open Tues-Sat, 10am until late, Sun, midday until midafternoon. Prices from $45 for a main. Accept cards. Click here for more information.

Natural Deli Restaurant

2.  Natural Deli, Palermo

This a wonderful place to bring a book or your laptop and park for a while. With some couch seating and several tables surrounded by shelves filled with healthy deli goods, this is a calming space to have breakfast, lunch or dinner. The environment is as fresh and vibrant as its food, with a lot of space and natural light. Order one of their blended juices. The Reenergizador, with red fruits, banana and orange has the promise of booting your energy levels. The other side of the menu breaks down the nutritional benefits of the ingredients you’re drinking. Turns out banana is rich in potassium, calcium and vitamins B and C. Good for athletes, children, and those in need of a boost. There is a large variety of home made baked good and pastries, but don’t skip over the dining menu. You can’t miss the Verde Thai wok, $39. With three locations, Natural Deli provides a good ambiance, and a variety of healthy natural products you can take home.

Located at Gorostiaga 1776 (Las Cañitas), Laprida 1672 (Barrio Norte), Rep. Árabe Siria 3090 (Botánico). Open Mon-Sat, 8am-12am, Sun, 9am-12am. For contact information visit the official website (www.naturaldeli.com). Prices from $39 for a main. Accept cards.

Bicycle display outside Hierba Buena

3.  Hierbabuena, Barracas

Only five months old, this restaurant has already warmed many to the idea of healthy-and-delicious. Of course, the warm and inviting garden-like ambience doesn’t hurt their cause. Located in an old naval hardware store, the place combines the antique machinery with pastel striped walls and a colorful mural. The message here is “green,” and the idea is to teach people to enjoy and reap the benefits of healthy food. $40 will get you a prefixe meal: a drink (try their lemonade mixed with mango), a café and fruit salad, and a choice between two freshly made entrees. They are inventing new dishes everyday and expect to roll out a new menu with more delicious options in the coming weeks. For something unique, have the mushroom burger, a meaty patty without the meat. It comes with a massive salad, tomatoes and pickled turnip, $35. Whatever you have, you’ll leave with a fully tummy and a smile.

Open Mon, 9am-5pm, Tues-Sun, 9am-midnight. Prices from $40 for a main. Accept cards. Click here for more information.

Bio Restaurant Menu (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

4.  Bio, Palermo

The original organic restaurant in Buenos Aires, these guys have been around for almost a decade and for good reason. They keep the customers coming back with fresh, local produce, unique dishes and a dedication to their cause. The green and natural wood decor, gives this veggie restaurant an earthy feel, but no need to put on a hemp tunic or a flowy skirt. Their reputation has all kinds of people coming in for ginger lemonade and house made breads.  The menu has taken gourmet food and altered it with vegetarian and organic ingredients. For example: the Milanesa made with soy and rice is a Bio Classic. This restaurant pioneered green awareness in the city, and made some elbow room for health in the Argentine diet.

Open Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm, Tues-Sat, 8pm-1am. Prices from $40 for a main. Accept cards. Click here for more information.

Pura Vida wrap combo

5.  Pura Vida, Microcentro (editor’s note: as of early 2012, Pura Vida closed down).

This bustling juice bar in the middle of the city serves up fresh fruits and veggies everyday. Get your vitamins in a shot of wheatgrass, a blended smoothie, and accompany it with a wrap or salad. Serving up dishes in about 5 minutes – they’re putting the “foodie” in fast food, making it the perfect spot for a quick bite during your lunch break. If that is not convenient enough, they also deliver within a 5 block radius of their location. They are conscious of creating a well-rounded dining experience, even offering five variations of olive oil. Order a fresh juice like the Jardín del Eden, with carrot, celery, ginger and apple, $17 for a small, to feel quenched and energized. Next time you need a quick bite skip the cheeseburger and enjoy Pura Vida’s beat and vibrant atmosphere instead.

Open Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm. Prices from $25.50 for a wrap. Accept cards. Click here for more information.

Wander around Palermo ‘Hollywood’ these days and you would be hard pushed to miss the plethora of ‘natural’ restaurants and cafes that have sprung up in the last year or so.

Kensho restaurant interior (Photo: Rafa López Binaghi)

Kensho may be the newest kid on the block, having opened its doors at the end of August, but it is by no means the newest in town, having moved from its previous location. In fact, Buddhist founder and chef Máximo Cabrera has nearly a decade of cooking experience under his belt, having cut his teeth in the kitchen at Bio, Buenos Aires’ first organic restaurant, in 2002. After a few years, Máximo founded Kensho, which began as one of the first closed-door restaurants in Buenos Aires. He then opened Kensho publicly a few years ago in Villa Ortuza, before moving to the current location in Palermo, where he has expanded to include the boutique and deli that feature next door to the restaurant.

So what makes Kensho stand out from the eco-masses?

The slick, chic appearance? True, the interior fits in with true Palermo style – clean simple décor, with not a lick of apple-coloured paint or a hint of wicker in sight. The green philosophy goes much deeper than appearances, so deep in fact, that the restaurant does not try to prove itself on appearances alone. It looks like any other classy, good restaurant with its timeless style.

This was a conscious decision on Máximo’s part – he aims to appeal to people beyond the regular consumers of restaurants whose fare is organic, vegetarian and raw. Yet the philosophy is a throbbing vein that runs through the heart of everything the space is about – every detail has been taking into account. Customers have the option of bottled or filtered tap water, the menu is made from 100% recycled paper, the cover of which explains the ethos behind the food, which changes with the season – proof of Máximo’s adherence to the philosophies of slow food, a movement he is part of in Argentina. The Slow Food movement was born in Italy, and adheres to the policy of using food that is local, grown in a sustainable way – aka organic – and offers a fair price to producers. In Kensho, the concept of changing the menu with the seasons also follows ancient Chinese methods.

So does the food cut it?

We opted for the ‘experience’ which comes in four courses, at a price of $160 for two. It is a good way to try more of a range of food on the menu, especially if some of the options sound alien to you.

Trio de Dips with a light cocktail (Photo: Rafa López Binaghi)

The Trio de Dips were accompanied by a variety of different breads, all of which were 100% wholegrain and homemade. Tastebuds were tickled by the fanciful black bean guacamole and nut pâté; a little green ball made of sunflower seeds, rocket and honey. The combinations made a change from a cream cheese dip and processed white bread that is the standard fare in most restaurants, as well as being healthier and far more interesting.

These were followed by two soups: lentil soup with cashew nuts and parsley; and butternut squash with an apple chimichurri, made of apple, canela and spices. Both were hearty, filling and warming for a chilly Spring evening.

Tofu Tandoori, tofu in a tandoori and orange sauce, accompanied by rice with basil and seaweed, was one of the main courses. I am not a tofu fan at all, fearing it falls into all the traps of being beige and bland, a stereotype of bad vegetarian fodder – but as Máximo explained, it is all about what you do with it, as it doesn’t have a particularly overwhelming flavour of its own. And he may have converted me with this one plate.

The other main, Crumble de Calabaza, was a combination of intense flavours and textures. The base was butternut squash coated in a crumble that was sweet in taste, but contrasted strongly with the melting goat’s cheese on top, accompanied by wild mushroom and beansprouts.

Crumble de Calabaza with goat cheese (Photo: Rafa López Binaghi)

Dessert consisted of a platter with different tastings, each carrying names that reflect Máximo’s love of music: the vegan James Brownie, Banana Nirvana, a banana in a kind of batter, as well as vegan ice cream, and other delights.

We finished full, but not bloated, having tried various new food combinations. And it lives up to its name, in both senses – it really is a dining ‘experience’, and Kensho, which means ‘to wake up the imagination’, carries the slogan ‘food to wake you up’. And it does just that. It brings a new, different focus to the concept and act of eating, encouraging customers to think about where the food has come from, and to try new flavours and combinations. It is a three-dimensional experience, not one that is flat and leaves the diner lacking, as so many vegetarian restaurants unfortunately tend to.

Kensho is a place for food lovers – vegetarian or not. This is what Máximo had in mind when opening the new locale, and he has hit the bulls eye. He wants people to experiment, to alternate between meat and two veg (or meat and more meat, as is often the case in Argentina) and wants Kensho to open people’s eyes – and tastebuds – up to new ideas.

He is realistic in this aim, and the balance he has managed to strike is an intelligent one. Rather than painting the place green, Kensho is stylish and the philosophy goes deeper than a trend or a passing fad, ensuring that it will survive any changes in fashion. The wine menu is a reflection of this, and the emphasis is on quality above and beyond anything else.

As well as organic and biodynamic wines, the menu contains regular wines – again a conscious decision by Máximo. He says that when he first opened Kensho across town, he had wanted to only serve organic wines, but the industry is not as developed as the regular wine trade in Argentina, and he found that often the wines were somewhat lacking, and not up to the standard he wanted to reach. So now he has wines of varying prices and includes organic and biodynamic wines on the list, but the emphasis is on quality. This is mirrored in the drinks menu generally – there is a long list of cocktails and ‘refrescantes’ (longer drinks with less alcohol) and the clients are welcome to drop in to have a drink just as much as they are welcome to eat, another move aimed at tentatively opening Kensho up, and helping Máximo’s food philosophy reach a wider audience.

And he seems to firmly desire growth of a more sustainable food movement – so much so, he teaches cooking classes on Mondays, when the restaurant is closed, in Kensho’s kitchen.

We leave feeling we have learnt a lot and been given a privileged insight into Máximo’s ideology, which he translates into edible delights on a daily basis.

Photos courtesy of Fundacion Huerto Niño

The idea of ‘being green’ can be slightly overwhelming. To do it well and consistently does (as I am quickly learning) mean a complete overhaul of previous habits. No more plastic bags; remembering your environmentally friendly food bag; sorting your rubbish into a surprisingly large amount of categories; taking your bike instead of catching the bus.

The list is endless, and whilst we may not be able to abide by all of them, all of the time, we can do our part whenever possible. In a conscious effort to do mine, I am increasingly aware that green does not equal a complicated way of life, just a more proactive one. Past practices may have meant that life was that bit more comfortable yes, but they were also sheer laziness and quite frankly, ignorant.

As we learn and understand more about being environmentally friendly, the supermarket is becoming increasingly unpopular. However, the effects on such large corporations continue to be minimal because unfortunately, if there is a choice between making effort and comfort, most of us would choose the latter. The supermarket may be having a negative effect on people and our environment, but we either don’t see it, or we choose to ignore it. Yet by doing our food shopping at the supermarket, we are shooting ourselves in the foot. Much of the produce that exists in supermarkets is imported from other countries; to cover the costs of this process means an automatic rise in price whilst the actual quality of the product, decreases. There is a common misconception that to eat well you have to pay for it. Wrong. Eating well does not require money; it requires understanding.

So, what is Argentina doing about it? Environmental awareness has not developed as quickly here as in other parts of the world. As previously discussed in The Argentina Independent, saying no to the plastic bag can be surprisingly tricky – they are fanatical about them! Why have one when you can have two? But if you scratch beneath the surface there are in fact, numerous organisations all striving towards the same thing: local, organic produce.

Puente del Sur

Photos courtesy of Fundacion Huerto Niño

Founded in 2003, Puente del Sur (puentedelsurcoop.com.ar) is a cooperative that works with smaller producers and sources out those people who choose an alternative way of buying. At Puente del Sur there is a firm belief (and they would be right) that supermarkets ‘exploit, adulterate, contaminate and cause unemployment. They explain that by buying in supermarkets we are financing their huge distribution and production systems of buying, something that we as individuals do not need. We are fundamentally supporting this finance system and paying for the huge price of capitalism to exist.

Puente del Sur endeavours to increase the distribution of locally produced, organic food and products that are made with the consumer in mind, consistently finding ways to improve quality and price. By working with smaller companies and producers we are avoiding these costs and in addition, supporting social relations by creating a local economic circuit. Buying from local producers not only creates jobs in distribution, making the smaller companies more viable, but the money we give over is for the products we buy and the work of the individuals involved. Nothing more, nothing less.

So how does Puente del Sur actually work? Quite simply, they deliver the requested products door-to-door. Each month, Puente del Sur sends its clients an email with a list of available products (unlike these huge corporate chains who provide every and any type of fruit and vegetable regardless of the season, Puente del Sur works with products available at that given time) who in turn make their order by phone or email.

What is brilliant about Puente del Sur is that there are no delivery charges on your bill. A concept practically unheard of. To avoid extra costs, the deliveries are generally done on a monthly basis, visiting three or four barrios close to each other on one day of the month, and other areas on another. All they request is that clients make an order of $80 or more. The list of products available has seen a huge increase since the birth of the company, which continuously accept and work with more and more local producers, hoping to avoid the exclusion of anyone. At Puente del Sur, they make every effort to create social change, giving the working classes more options and opportunities that would usually be unavailable to them.

Huerta Niño

Photos courtesy of Fundacion Huerto Niño

Non-governmental organisation ‘Huerta Niño’ (mihuerta.org.ar) has similar beliefs. Founded in 1999, Huerta Niño works with disadvantaged rural schools in the province of Buenos Aires, offering them the chance to train in and about their environment. How? The foundation provides these schools with one-acre vegetable gardens to be sustained by the children and their parents so that they are able to improve their diet through their own cultivation.

When Huerta Niño was founded, Argentina provided food for 350m people but despite its population of 37m, in over half the country, children were malnourished (the staff are quick to add that this figure is likely to have worsened since then). The founders of Huerta Niño started questioning these alarming statistics and wanted to do something about them. It is important to mention that the term ‘malnutrition’ does not only apply to those who are starving, but also those who are clinically obese. They may appear to be two very different illnesses but they are closely related: both are the result of bad diet.

The main goal of Huerta Niño is to reduce and eliminate hunger and malnutrition. Yet, after research and investigation, the foundation discovered that, aside from health issues, bad diet can severely effect a child’s education and therefore future.

“When a child eats badly, they lack the things needed to function properly. Without a balanced diet, we have seen that children simply cannot concentrate in class and therefore end up missing out on school entirely. It’s all related,” explains Constanza, who works in the development and communication of the foundation. Building vegetable gardens seemed to be the logical and suitable response to these issues, approaching three areas close to the foundation’s heart. “Huerta Niño incorporates education, environment and food into the daily lives of the children, all of which are fundamental to us,” says Constanza.

The children learn a huge amount from these one-acre vegetable gardens. From compost production, worm breeding and construction of home-made tools to crop rotation and preserves, they are continuously gaining valuable knowledge. They are involved in every step of the project right up to the cooking, giving them the satisfaction and enthusiasm to sustain what they have essentially built themselves. The projects promote community unity and organisation through this common goal. The work of the organisation stresses that it is not just a question of feeding but about teaching people how to produce food and feed themselves so that they do not need to rely on others but simply have a helping hand getting started.

Photos courtesy of Fundacion Huerto Niño

Huerta Niño sees a future of more vegetable gardens in not only Argentina but across the globe, to reduce malnutrition and hunger. However, despite the importance of the foundation’s concept, Juan the director of Huerta Niño, explains it can be surprisingly hard to find donations and sponsors to get the ball rolling. He discusses the frustration the organization faces at times, due to people’s sheer lack of interest and laziness to participate in something so vital, ‘To me, it’s the same principal as the sweet wrapper. You can eat the sweet, and then walk just that little bit further to put the wrapper in the bin, or you can simply drop it where you are, and forget about it. Unfortunately there are too many people who choose the latter; It’s the same with the sponsors- it’s too much of an effort for many of them, no matter how much money the have. We need to educate and change the way of thinking’.

A bold statement to make perhaps, but certainly not impossible. If each of us just make that extra bit of effort, and support each other, it will be us as individuals, and as a community, who see the benefits rather than these huge corporations.

  

Illustration by Nick Mahshie

Looking back, I deserved to be punished. In fact, in a weird way, it was what I wanted. I saw my epic 35-hour journey to the tip of Patagonia and subsequent six weeks hard graft on a sheep farm with Quinchado, the 65-year-old Chilean gaucho, as a form of penance.

My face had changed since arriving in Argentina and I didn’t like it. You could tell by the jowls, my dull eyes, the hollow cheeks and the scurvy that I had lived beyond my means and my moral factory settings. The only thing for it, other than return to the warm, perfumed embrace of my mother, was to go Wwoofing.

With no interest whatsoever in organic farming, I knew I was going Wwoofing (World-wide opportunities on organic farms) for all the wrong reasons, but I didn’t care, I needed help and a straight-talking gaucho to show me the light.

I should have turned back when the bus company said the only seat left on the bus to Gobernadores Gregores was non-reclinable. I should have turned back when a gang of laughing Paraguayan hookers who looked like they had just raided a primary school prop cupboard, boarded the bus. I felt like Pinocchio trapped on that weird vaudeville-like train to the circus. I couldn’t believe my eyes when, halfway through an omelette roll during a lunchtime pit-stop, a couple of the girls tried turning a few tricks from the roadside.

I had made a pledge not only to myself, however, but also to the estancia owner, Marc-Antoine, that in his absence I would show up, scrub his corrugated iron roof with a wire brush, make sure no one pinched his sheep and shovel the horse shit out of the barn. I had paid my US$30 subscription fee for access to the Wwoofing website and I was determined to see it through. In return for my efforts I was to receive free bed and board.

As arranged, I was picked up from the bus stop by Marc-Antoine’s mate and dropped off at the estancia. A three-legged sheep dog with a stick in its mouth came bounding awkwardly towards us. According to Marc-Antoine’s mate, it always had a stick in its mouth. Bit strange, I thought. The estancia was desolate. Quinchado’s concrete hut was empty. Marc-Antoine’s mate told me to sit and wait in the hut, before leaving me alone with the dog scratching around outside on its three legs.

The little I knew of the gaucho lifestyle came from studying Martin Fierro – Argentina’s most notorious gaucho – during literature classes at uni. He used to wander around on horseback, get drunk and start knife fights. So it came as somewhat of a surprise to find, inside the hut, a teddy bear sitting with his legs dangling over the edge of a wooden sideboard next to a small ticking alarm clock.  The hut, which smelt of wood smoke, was tidy and sparsely decorated: Two calendars nailed to the wall, a table with three chairs, a wood-fire stove, a hook from which hung a hunk of meat, a sink and a sideboard stacked with tins of coffee and mate. There was another door – which no doubt led to Quinchado’s room, and possibly even more teddies, so I kept it shut. I waited in that cold hut listening to that ticking clock for three hours before the dog barked, signalling Quinchado’s arrival.

Passing the hut window on horseback with a skinned sheep slung over the rear end of the horse, Quinchado dismounted in an all-in-one blue boiler suit and stood approximately 5ft tall in his wellies. With relief, I realised I would just about hold my own against him if things turned nasty. What looked like a brown, over-sized seagull hopped around behind him as he put away the saddle and cut up the dead sheep.  His eyes were two-toned – blue with green-rimmed edges. We shared a mate, he turned on the radio and we sat in silence listening to the messages being broadcast out to the estancias from the town, approximately 60km away.

  

Photo by Kate Stanworth

This idyllic image of wwoofing was not what greeted Sean on his trip to Patagonia

He was an orphan, he told me. He once worked in a bakery in Chile but got into a fight so moved to find work on the estancias in Patagonia. He preferred animals to people and hadn’t been to the town for two years he said. He proudly showed me a new pair of bombachas he had bought there two years ago and still hadn’t taken them out of the bag. According to the one of the broadcasts, an old gaucho friend of his had died, so Quinchado lit a candle and said he would stay awake until it burnt down, as a mark of respect.

He cooked us a lamb stew on the stove and then asked me why I was there. It turned out that ol’ Marc-Antoine hadn’t bothered to tell him that I was coming. I did my best to explain the Wwoofing concept but he couldn’t get his head around the fact that I had travelled across the country to work for free. In fact, it seemed to annoy him. Perhaps he thought his job was at risk? Perhaps he thought I was just stupid? When he explained that a boy from the town arrived the year before and was paid 50 pesos a day for the same work, I started to wonder if indeed I was stupid. Once he realised I was of no relation to Marc-Antoine, that I wasn’t French, that England wasn’t in France and that I was actually a journalist, things started to go downhill fast. The whole episode was farcical.

He showed me to a wooden cabin on the other side of the ranch. There was no heating, no running water, an upside down horseshoe above the entrance and a sheep’s skull encasing the one light bulb. Work was to start at 8am. I didn’t have an alarm, so he lent me the little clock from his sideboard. Bearing in mind it was mid-winter, the temperature had dropped well into the minuses.

Wrapped in all my spare clothing, frozen to death, my mind started racing. No one knew where I was, civilisation (if you can call Gobernadores Gregores that) was a good 40-minute drive away, and I was stuck on an estancia within rifle shot of a confused gaucho with a penchant for teddy bears. People make their own rules in places like this. This wasn’t a place for me. I didn’t have rough hands and a way with horses. I was a city boy, and a scared city boy at that. Dead on half past ten the clock suddenly stopped ticking. The same clock had been sat on his sideboard for goodness knows how long yet had suddenly stopped within half an hour of me being in the room. I was close to tears. My gut instinct was telling me to get out.

I was pleased to see daylight stream in through the window. So cold was the night that my alcohol-based ointment I was using to treat a wart had frozen in its bottle. Without the use of the clock, I judged it to be roughly 7ish, so headed over to Quinchado to see how things stood. He could see I hadn’t slept a wink, or washed, and just gave a toothy grin. He knew I was close to breaking. He set a few challenges, like getting me to drag a wheelbarrow across a frozen stream and chop a tree trunk with an axe.

I realised, watching him handle the axe that he was as strong as an ox and despite being a midget could axe his way into my cabin, rough me up and have me hanging in cutlets from one of his metal hooks whenever he wanted. That evil-looking bird appeared again and watched us as we took turns with the axe. Quinchado had the thing tamed like a circus chimp. He was able to push its head into the ground so that its beak got stuck in the mud. As I was loading the wheelbarrow with wet leaves the nasty little thing launched itself at me and tried to land on the back of my head. I grabbed the rake and shooed it off while Quinchado flashed his teeth laughing and said the bird knew what I was like. What was that supposed to mean?

  

Photo by K.W. Slovache

This idyllic image of wwoofing was not what greeted Sean on his trip to Patagonia

I had had enough. Soon after this, the three-legged sheepdog started to bark and ran to the estancia entrance. Quinchado’s ear pricked up and he followed. A truck pulling a trailer full of barking dogs in a cage pulled up. Out jumped Martín. Was this a good or a bad thing? Was Martín my saviour or had Martín come to join the party? The wild barking from the dogs and the wild, thick set of black curls on Martin’s head and his deep-set dark eyes had me worried. His arrival interrupted the labour at least, and we broke for mate in Quinchado’s hut. I sat and listened to them talk about the dead gaucho, the radio broadcasts, skinny sheep, fat sheep, diseased sheep, good sheepdogs, bad sheepdogs, the three legged sheepdog and that bird which was now tap dancing above us on the corrugated iron roof. Quinchado then explained to Martín that I had travelled all the way down by bus from Buenos Aires to cut wood and shovel shit out of the barn for free. Martín was particularly ticked by this story and I noticed his shoulders shake as he sucked on the bombilla.

“Martín, are you heading into town with those dogs after this?” I asked. Quinchado knew what was coming.

“Are you going?” Quinchado asked.

“Yes”, I said, “I have made a terrible mistake and now realise this isn’t for me. I’m sorry for wasting your time and thank you for the food and your hospitality.”

I rushed back to the cabin and threw everything into a bag before joining Quinchado and Martín who were now standing by the truck. I shook Quinchado’s hand, although he opted not to make eye contact. I think he was just blown away by the whirlwind that had been the last 36 hours and was still trying to make sense of it all as I buckled up next to Martín and felt, at last, that things were back within my control.

I gave Martín $20 for his trouble when we arrived in the town and ran to the bus ticket office to organise my 35-hour return back up north. The bus journey now seemed like heaven in comparison to what I had just been through.

I decided to write to Marc-Antoine when I returned to BA to explain that I did make it to his estancia, that I had shared dinner, breakfast and lunch with Quinchado, managed a couple of jobs on the checklist and nearly died of hypothermia before before jacking it in. I explained I was ill-prepared and naive about what to expect and that I had become de-motivated after learning that the work I was doing was previously cash-rewarded. I conceded that it was I who accepted the conditions prior to starting and apologised for flaking.

A disappointed Marc-Antoine wrote back suggesting I should have asked Quinchado for a hot water bottle. Perhaps that was what that bloody teddy was?? Although I don’t think so…

 

Photo by Hayden Lewis

Very noble indeed, this tienda hides its tiny yellow self shyly amongst a row of shops that surround Av Corrientes. But if you’re lucky enough to spot it like I did, then you can rest you will leave with your belly – and wallet – full.

Noble y Natural has only been open for a few months, and tries to promote an alternative way of eating healthy foods. They specialise in Chinese and Argentine cuisine, and have a strong policy against the suffering of animals and so all products are made from 100% vegetarian and organic ingredients.

The one thing that has kept me going back to this store is the salad buffet which has an extensive range of foods to choose from and sauces to create the perfect topping. With fresh fruit such as kiwi, watermelon, strawberries, and cherries, you can create a very refreshing fruit salad to accompany your dish. The options for the main salad include rice with vegetables and lentils, aubergine, red kidney beans, chickpeas and carrots. Although the beans and vegetables are cold, the rice and pasta are warm which provides the perfect balance.

If you’re after something a bit heavier to satisfy the taste buds, then a range of hot and freshly packed stir fries, and spring rolls, noodles and empanadas are available from as little as $6. All with tasty meat-free alternatives to chicken, pork and beef.

Aside from the food to eat in and to go, there is also a variety of other products such as dry fruits, organic wholemeal bread and cakes, all free from any traces of animal produce. A great way to stock up the cupboard on yummy – but again healthy – snacks.

 

Photo by Hayden Lewis

Its quite a sight watching the chefs chop up vegetables in the kitchen out back, and when you see those behind the counter scoffing down the same thing you’ve just bought, it brings reassurance that the food is fresh and healthy to eat. With smiles on their faces, wearing bright green aprons and hats which say “eat healthy and smile” it’s definitely worth a visit just to see the staff in such fancy costumes.

Manager Pablo is pleased with the success of the store so far and how popular it has become in such little time. He says, “many people when thinking of vegetarian food, picture lettuce and tomatoes, but we want to show them that there is indeed a wider range of tasty options for the vegetarian sector.”

Below the counter is a series of leaflets and pamphlets smothered with facts on healthy eating and the importance of a good diet, they are free for all customers to take. But be warned some of the information is shocking as to what bad food really does to us. Lucky there’s now somewhere healthy and tasty to go for a quick meal at this end of town!

Noble y Natural, Corrientes 4657, Villa Crespo. Tel: 4862 1827

   

Photo by Sanra Ritten

To most people, steak, mate and malbec are the bastions of Argentina’s gastronomy. Yet according to Slow Food, an international grassroots, eco-gastronomic non-profit organisation, the three bastions that truly demonstrate the country’s biodiversity are yacón, Andean corns and Andean potatoes.

Slow Food is a movement that challenges the current industrialised food industry and global economy, which are threatening communities, native foods and environments around the world. Slow Food is dedicated to strengthening the relationship between the world of food producers and that of consumers. It strives to transform food policy, production practices and market forces to ensure equity, sustainability and pleasure in the food we eat. Founded in 1986 in Italy in protest against the opening of a McDonald’s near the Spanish steps of Rome, it is now a global movement, with headquarters in over 100 countries.

Of the 750 regional conviviums, or branches of Slow Food, in the world, there are seven in Argentina. The Argentine conviviums cover the vast country from the altiplanos of Tucumán and Salta all the way to the capital.

While steaks made from grass-fed, free roaming cattle, fair trade yerba mate and artisanal wines certainly have a place under the umbrella of Slow Food, Slow Food Argentina strives to preserve and promote an extremely diverse array of foodstuffs. But, in order to fit into the philosophy of Slow Food each item should be good, clean and fair.

Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food, defines these simple words in their relationship to sustenance in his book Slow Food Nation.

That food should be good signifies that it should be a quality product that brings pleasure to the person consuming it. Food is to be savoured; it is not only what fuels our bodies but can also bring us joy and happiness through sensory pleasure.

   

Photo by Sanra Ritten

That food should be clean means that it should not contaminate or harm the environment in any of the processes that it undergoes from the field to the table. It also should not contain chemicals or genetically modified organisms, it should be as close to its natural state as possible.

That food should be just means that the people who plant it, cultivate it, harvest it, transport it and cook it should be paid fairly, treated properly and respected for their dignified work, on which all human beings ultimately depend.

A unique element of Slow Food Argentina is its Network of Cooks. According to Petrini, their involvement in the movement is extremely important.

By incorporating a network of cooks, Slow Food Argentina ensures that there is a growing body of people utilising and thus spreading awareness about the indigenous and local ingredients that are struggling to enter the market, such as Argentina’s bastions.

Yacón

Yacón is a sweet Andean root, whose origin has been lost in Argentina’s past. In Aymara, the region’s indigenous language, the root is known as aricoma or aricuma. The cultivation of yacón requires a great deal of water and well-fertilised earth, and it grows well in the area of Quebrada de Humahuaca, in the north-western province of Jujuy. The towns most noted for the production of yacón are Barcena and Volcan.

The plant is cultivated using ancient techniques and tools like the taclla, a wooden tool that can be traced back to the Incas. The taclla is used to prepare the land for planting and is then used to place the bulbs in the furrows. In the cool months of August to September, yacón is harvested. The shrub has a thin trunk that can grow to one and a half meter in height and lanky green leaves. The edible part of the plant grows below ground, where the root, after being peeled of its dark brown skin, boasts sweet and succulent pale yellow flesh similar in texture to an apple’s. With time, the root sweetens further as the starches transform into sugars. Once the root has been left out in the sun long enough for the skin to shrivel up, the flesh can be enjoyed raw.

   

Photo by Sanra Ritten

The people of the Quebrada also use yacón to make juice, jams, and fruit jellies. Dried, the plant’s leaves can also be used to make a very fragrant tea. Today, the vast majority of yacón is consumed locally. However, yacón has great potential; it is wholesome, versatile and has important dietary properties. The fruit contains inulina, a natural substitute for sugar, making it suitable for diabetics.

Andean produce

The history of corn, today one of the most highly consumed grains, dates back thousands of years. In northern Argentina, particularly in the province of Catamarca, many ancient varieties still exist, including capia, blanco criollo, amarillo socorro, morocho and chullpi.

These native corn varieties are raised in small plots, grown along side peppers, potatoes, and aromatic herbs, primarily for family consumption. The fields are sown by hand during the first days of October and the corn is ready to harvest in April. Before it is ready to eat however, the corn must go through a lengthy arduous process of drying, after which the kernels are cut off the cob and peeled. Because the capia variety has tender grains that shred easily, the corns are first baked in water and lime and then peeled and dried in the sun. Andean culinary traditions have played an important part in safeguarding the biodiversity of these crops. Each variety has a role in the local cuisine and festivities, and cooks prepare a great variety of distinct dishes with each one.

Andean corn, along with Andean potatoes, provides the foundation of the local population’s diet. Yet potato biodiversity, much like that of corn, in the world is under serious threat. Ancient varieties cultivated for millennia have been lost and wild species are threatened by climate change. In the north of Argentina, perija, papas azules, lisa verde, negrita, oca papa, lisa overija, are just a few of the Andean potato varieties that continue to sustain local populations, both as alimentation and a source of income.

While Slow Food brings attention to and gives technical and financial support to preserving these three culinary bastions, it also brings something else. According to Susana Martinez, president of the Patrimony Agriculture Cooperative, ever since yacón was designated a Slow Food bastion, people and producers began to look at yacón production and agriculture in a different way, with much more respect and appreciation.

Slow Food Argentina has a lot of work to do seeing that these three bastions are just the beginning of Argentina’s incredible biodiversity and food traditions.

photo by Anette Berve

Mike Legge is a man with a mission: to change the eating habits of Argentines. And his mission is to be accomplished via his chain of café-cum-delis: Natural Deli.

The Brit is quick to point out that he’s ‘not a tree hugger’ though. “I grew up on a farm, growing my own vegetables – there were no chemicals in the food, it was all environmentally friendly.”

He saw an opportunity here as he thought the food on offer was very limited in Argentina – especially in terms of food on the go. Legge says he found the options very limited and conservative, and moreover, felt sorry for vegetarians.

And thus the idea of Natural Deli was born.

The first store opened in Las Cañitas last year, and that was more recently followed by a bigger place in Barrio Norte, earlier this year.

The concept is to offer fresh, healthy food to eat in or take away – with delivery being added as an option in the near future – which will hopefully inspire people to come back and buy some of the products in the food themselves, to take their new eating habits home and into the kitchen.

Legge is quick to point out he is not a chef. “I would say I’m a gastronome though – I know about food and I love food. I love to cook. When opening Natural Deli I thought: what do I miss from home? What do I feel I can’t get here?”

And after a bit of trial and error and a few tastings, the seasonal menu was put together with the help of Pablo, the head chef.

“I would like to emphasise that we do not have ham and cheese sandwiches, and the only time we had empanadas was on independence day. We sell products you would normally find in a diet store, but without the dull clinical display.

“We also do not sell soft drinks. We have had customers walk out because of that. We are known as ‘the place without gaseosas, and we might be the only one in BA,” Legge says laughing.

“But I want people to enjoy themselves here and try something new. It is probably best to start slowly and just try one new thing – not go for the most extreme.”

The food is freshly prepared daily, and, after experimenting with a lot of recipes they have come up with some pretty unusual combinations: like a pudding made with polenta and using chia, a type of grain from the north which is very healthy. The aim is to always have a twist to the menu, making it healthy and different, yet tasty.

photo by Piers Calvert

And organic – wherever possible. Natural Deli was the first store in the capital to offer organic coffee. But Legge explains that organic food is still not that popular or common here – he has been offered organic chicken by potential suppliers, but upon some investigation, he discovered that organic chicken does not exist in Argentina. “The so-called ‘organic’ chicken here is not organic at all!” he says.

Aside from the café element in the Natural Deli chain, there is also the store part, offering lots of the products that are used on the menu. Aside from food, you can also buy 100% organic cosmetics for men and women, and body products without toxins.

And how is all of this being received by Argentines? Legge says they have a lot of Argentine regulars, particularly for breakfast. He believes this is partially because they have ‘the best scrambled eggs in BA’, which are served for breakfast along with porridge and toast.

He tells of one Argentine regular who comes into the store daily for breakfast, which is always toast. The man was going away on business, but before he left he came in to buy the exact bread and jam he had every morning to take away with him, so he could continue enjoying it whilst working away.

photo by Anette Berve

A sure sign of success.

If people are sceptical, or scared, of trying the food, the majority of which is often new to them, they can sample things and the staff can help them out, explaining the ingredients. The store even offers its own nutritionist for $30-40 a session who will help with information on nutrition and lifestyle.

And so the next step for Natural Deli? World domination of the organic and health food market?

Legge laughs at this concept, but there is a twinkle in his eye of such ambition. For now he is happy opening more stores – the ultimate aim being ten in the capital, and potentially using environmentally-friendly packaging and bags.

And of course continuing to change people’s food and eating habits long term.

Natural Deli is in Las Cañitas on Gorostiaga 1776, or in Barrio Norte at Laprida 1672. For more information visit www.natural-deli.com