It is not overwhelmingly encouraging to walk into a restaurant whose clientele appears never to have actually allowed their bodies the sinful indulgence of food.
This was my immediate reservation upon observing the beautiful – if somewhat emaciated – young things occupying the crisp white tables of Sabbia, one of Recoleta’s newest and most exclusive resto-bars. Luckily, it became clear that these customers were not, in fact, there to eat, but rather to enjoy the extensive selection of cocktails on offer: an exercise which did not jeopardise the maintenance of their svelte figures, and a revelation which restored my hopes for a rich, filling meal.
We were led past the pinstripes and high-heels of the New York-style lounge area, and through to the equally elegant restaurant. The decor was modern meets classic; glamorous meets trendy; boudoir meets boliche; favela meets chic. White chiffon curtains adorned the corrugated iron walls, atmospherically illuminated by red floor lights and blue backlighting along the length of the mirrored bar. Based on the interior design and the calibre of the punters, in this establishment appearance was undoubtedly everything. It soon emerged that the food was no exception to this rule.
As we flicked through our menus, we watched the other diners receiving their beautifully presented platters of sushi and decorative entradas served on (debatably, superfluous) asymmetrical dishes. However, it did seem as though the menu had been compiled in primary consideration of that which could be dressed up. The choice of starters, puddings and sushi was impressively vast, where the main courses were limited to just seven options, all priced between $29 and $39. In fact, the wine and tragos list was about four times the length of the food menu, affirming that Sabbia is perhaps most aptly categorised as a ‘cocktelería’.
Nonetheless, the food was delectable. The menu boasted a range of salmon and prawn dishes, including the particularly recommendable bruschetta de salmon y brie. Although small, this appetizer was delicious, and if a full belly is the aim of your evening, this could be followed up by one of the more generous principales of pollo relleno de vegetales, medallones de lomo, raviolis or a ‘wok’. However, the house speciality was evidently the sushi, and head chef, Mónica Camino, serves up an ornate variety of sashimi, niguiris, makis and rolls, drawing from her past experience of working for Buenos Aires’ popular ‘Sushi Club’. The $72 Sushi Tabla Combinada would be ideal for a group of four or five.
For those with a sweet tooth and not on a low-calorie diet, the Sabbia postres, which are all priced around $19, are exceptional. Decorated by a dusting of flower petals, the Volcán de chocolate made for an appropriately lavish finale to my experience of fine dining. So as not to feel as though you’ve missed out on anything, ordering the degustación de mini dulzuras (a sample of each of the desserts on the menu) would be a wise move.
Despite the sumptuous menu, it is the wide variety of original tragos that steals the limelight, and cocktails are all priced around $25. At 9pm on a Monday evening, the bar was barely buzzing; however, our waiter, Ramiro, explained that from Wednesdays until Saturdays the place is packed into the early hours. At weekends, guests pile in to enjoy the live DJs playing in the upstairs salón de boliche and to soak up the relaxing ambience of the glass-covered smoking area, complete with a log fire and atmospheric mood lighting. In fact, although relatively new to the fashionable circuit of the noche porteña (the Recoleta branch only opened in July, following in the footsteps of its counterparts in Pinamar and Punta del Este), Buenos Aires Sabbia Liquor Bar has already attracted its fair share of celebrities, including actress, Brenda Gandini and model, Zaira Nara.
It is thus unsurprising that Sabbia insists on the ‘vestimente elegante’ of its guests. It is a place to be seen, and the meticulous attention to detail with which the food and drinks are prepared is matched only by the care with which the clientele have been coiffed. Book ahead for a table at the weekend; expect excellent service and an enjoyable evening of chic drinking and dining. Do not expect to leave feeling full.
Sabbia Liquor Bar is on Ayacucho 1240. The restaurant serves food on Mondays to Saturdays at 6pm-1am, and the bar remains open until 3am. For reservations and private events, call 4827-4415. For more information, visit www.sabbia.com.ar. Mondays are ‘Ladies Night’, and groups of chicas can enjoy a 30% discount of their table’s total bill.


