Walking along the street of this porteño neighbourhood, the architecture is stunning, but the façades have seen better days. I am not in the restaurant reviewer’s regular part of town.

Aramburu defies every syllable of the ‘location, location, location’ concept. Whilst Guía Oleo places the restaurant in much more marketable San Telmo, the Guía-T accurately places it in the much less appealing Constitución. And it does seem like an extraordinary choice for such an up-market and well-received restaurant, but it is a choice chef Gonzalo Aramburu defends. He is from the area and lives just a few blocks away. And besides, the election doesn’t seem to have done them badly – the restaurant has been open for over five years, and they are expanding to open a bistro half a block away before the year ends. And on the Wednesday we go, all 20 seats are full.

Upon entering, you are suddenly whisked out of the south of the city and into somewhere much more cosmopolitan. The bare-brick walls open out to the modern, stainless steel kitchen, which is entirely on view from behind an enormous pane of glass – a good choice, given the size of the dining area and the noise levels that would likely come from the kitchen were it actually open.

The decor is simple, yet sleek. The tables have a very considered lighting effect, with spotlights illuminating the centre, but keeping diners mostly in the dark – a flattering combination. And after all, it is the food that is protagonist at Aramburu.

There is no menu: Aramburu offers a ten-course dining experience, which is entirely a surprise. Diners are asked by the bilingual staff if they have any particular dietary requirements or preferences, and the rest is left in the hands of Aramburu himself.

The menu is designed in four stages – entrees, followed by seafood, then meat mains, and finally desserts; and within each stage are two or three dishes. The variety in the steps is overwhelming with hints of the chef’s time spent working in Europe and the United States. Each and every plate is a carefully considered creation, mixing flavours and tones as diverse as the cauliflower and truffle soup, a version of a tamale topped with a corn foam, or a green salad on an avocado base with cucumber and apple dressing.

There is definitely something of a crescendo in the courses, and the two meat dishes were indeed the highlight. Suckling pig, after eight hours of cooking, simply melted in the mouth, and came accompanied with almonds and butternut squash. Next up was filet mignon served with four textures of potatoes, each one served differently, in praise of the Andean staple.

And between the mains and the desserts, we were in for a surprise. A stone pot filled with moss sprinkled in apple oil was left on the table, and moments later a waitress appeared with a steaming jug of dry ice and proceeded to pour it over the pot. Visually, the effect was stunning, and the fumes we inhaled proceeded to cleanse our palate, readying us for the final stage of the dinner: dessert.

Whilst there is little freedom of choice on the menu itself, the wine is the complete opposite. The selection is extensive, with wines from the heights of Salta to the reaches of Patagonia, and includes organic and biodynamic wines, as well as less common varietals such as Riesling. Sommelier Agustina de Alba, who put the menu together, confirms our surprise at an Argentine Riesling, explaining only 83 hectares of the grape are planted in the entire country.

The international selection is equally broad and goes beyond the predictable European and new world labels, with even Hungarian wine featuring.

And the option of a five-glass wine flight allows diners to enjoy wines that they might not otherwise venture to choose. Like the food menu, the wines are also a surprise.

We were served five glasses of extraordinary wine, with neither Malbec nor Torrontes featuring, to my delight. A Riesling from Humberto Canale, Patagonia’s oldest vineyard, and an excellent 2010 Colomé Bonarda really stood out. The servings were generous, and I would recommend the tasting menu – it really is worth every centavo of its $220 price tag.

It would seem that there is nothing predictable about Aramburu, which seems destined to keep surprising and defying the odds of its somewhat strange location.

Editor’s note: we are revisiting this article, which was originally published on 18th May, 2011, as part of our food month. Some information and prices may be out of date. Please follow the links to the restaurants’ websites for up to date information

There is nothing like having a home-cooked meal. There is really nothing like having a home-cooked meal prepared by a professional chef. All over the world chefs have been opening up the doors to their hogar and preparing delectable meals from their house kitchen. Puerta Cerrada (closed door) restaurants have become particularly popular in Buenos Aires after the economic crisis of 2001. The Indy sent out one lucky journalist to hunt down five of the best and most unique closed door restaurants in the city.

1.  Casa SaltShaker, Barrio Norte

For the last six years Chef Dan Perlman and host Henry Tapia been inviting strangers into their home to eat, drink and be merry. Originally from the States, Dan says it is fun for him to provide a forum for people to meet each other. With capacity for 12 guests, who sit around two communal tables, the experience is jovial, conversational and international – especially since now-a-days most guests are foreigners. They ask participants to arrive between 8.45 and 9pm so the joint adventure can begin around 9.15. You’ll be greeted with a welcome cocktail followed by a five course meal of “fancy home cooking” – as Dan describes it. The menu, that changes weekly, usually has a historical theme – based on the date. Dan keeps his meals memorable by taking on challenging themes that stretch his specialty in Mediterranean cuisine. Previous meals have been inspired by ‘Cinco de Mayo’ but also ‘Towel Day’.  In his house, Dan’s cooking whims are the way – and everyone is better off because of it. The food is fresh, unique and truly delicious – throw in a group of multicultural strangers (soon to become friends) and you get one hell of a dinner party.

The five course meal is $130 with an additional $60 for wine pairings. Cash only please. For more information, click here.

2.  Paladar, Almagro

After you ring the door bell, enter a candlelit escape from the typical night out. A faint red glow, soft background music, and private tables scattered through the space give Paladar Buenos Aires a romantic ‘night in’ feeling – except instead of delivery pizza and beer – you’re being served a divine meal by dedicated service, paired with the absolute perfect wine. And when I say the perfect wine, I mean the suggestion for each course takes what is already an exquisite meal into the realm of heavenly. The presentation of each of the four courses is elegant, but unlike super swanky restaurants, the servings here are hearty and full – with out being too rich or heavy. Chef Pablo Abramovsky combines fresh ingredients with an ingenious command of flavor to make an extraordinary culinary experience. His wife Ivana Piñar, usually the sommelier, skillfully connects the meal with Argentine vino to create a masterpiece. Did I mention I liked the wine pairings? Coffee and a petite cookie make the perfect finale to an enchanting evening. For a particularly special occasion you may want to reserve the table by the fireplace where you and your loved one can snuggle next to each other on the red couch.

The four course meal is $135 with an additional $45 for wine pairings. Cash only. For more information, click here.

3.  Casa Felix, Chacarita

Walking into Casa Felix is so cozy and welcoming, you immediately feel at home. Chef Diego Felix and wife Sanra Ritten have created warm, intimate space – like you’ve just walked in to your best friend’s really gorgeous, antique house. You take your welcome cocktail in the garden, filled with aromatic herbs growing in every corner of the yard. This is where the chef finds his inspiration. Every course of the meal has a least a little something from the beautiful vegetation he has in the back. It could be lemon, lavender, mint, fuzzy chayote leaves – these he wrapped around a piece of Patagonian cheese to make a wonderful morsel with surprising texture. The 15 puerta cerrada-goers mill about out back, chatting and getting to know each other – but once it is dinner time, everyone is herded through the bustling kitchen, to individual tables. Sanra’s professional photography decorates the white walls and gorgeous multicolour paper chandeliers hand from the high ceilings. Diego makes food for the more adventurous palate – willing to move beyond they usual Argentine fare – the meals are pescatarian – and create mouthwatering surprises like an ‘exotic mushroom empanada’. By the end of my dining experience I felt so at home, I felt like hugging Diego like an old friend.

The four course meal is $150, with an additional $75 for wine pairings, or order a bottle from the list. Cash only. For more information, click here.

4.  Casa Mun, Palermo

The newest puerta cerrada on the scene, Chef Mun has already made a name for himself in this world of clandestine restaurants. Their loft home is minimalist and modern. Clean lines, complete with bamboo in the patio. The Asian inspiration continues with the food – fused with some California influences. The May menu includes crispy tempura, melt-in-your-mouth sashimi, sushi rolls, Chinese curry and (my favorite) Korean bibimbap with a quail egg! Chef Mun likes his spice, but is sensitive to Argentine vulnerability, making room for less tolerant taste-buds if necessary. Perhaps the part of the evening, besides the meal, was Chef Mun’s description of each course, his passion for food and love for entertaining are obvious as he beautifully explained each impeccably designed plate placed in front of you. Arrive at 8.30 for a champagne reception and a chance to get to know everyone who will be dining with you. Communal tables and wine pairings make for a jolly night of delicious food and good company – most of the foreign kind – even a little spice can be too much for the Argentine palate.

The five course meal, including wine pairings, is $195. Cash only. For more information, click here.

5.  Cocina Sunae, Colegiales

Chef Christina Sunae spent much of her younger years living in the Philippines and Japan. After several years in a Thai restaurant in New York, she brought authentic Asian cuisine to Buenos Aires. The dining room is spacious, candle-lit and mostly divided up by tables for two. Unlike several of the other restaurants – Christina finds her guests to be mostly Argentine – and unwilling to share a table with strangers. For people who are in the mood for real Thai food – the spicy kind – or Asian cuisine the way it was meant to be – Sunae has got it down perfectly. The chef knows authentic taste and if she can’t find the perfect ingredient, she’ll mix things around until the taste is just right – no exceptions. According to the chef, Asian food is made for sharing. She offers two entrees every night to provide variation and suggests couples order one of each so they can experience more plates. The meal is rich, spicy, playful and filling – for the last two years Cocina Sunae has been expanding the Argentine palate and will continue to do so for a long time.

The four course meal is $110, wine from the list is additional. Cash only. For more information, click here.

Ever thought… ‘Where are all the Koreans hiding in this city?’ OK, probably not. But maybe you have thought that you are tired of empanadas and pizza. Although it might seem like Buenos Aires has a limited spectrum in terms of cuisine, you just need to know where to look to find something, well, different.

Buenos Aires has the second largest Korean community in Latin America. Korean immigration was in full swing in the 1980s and has since slowed, but has eventually amounted to some 50,000 people. Most of the community currently reside in the neighbourhoods of Flores and Once, so that’s where our search for something out of the ordinary began…

1. Bi Won

The best-known Korean restaurant in the city for a reason; The Korean owners of Bi Won have developed an extensive menu comprised of both classic and contemporary dishes. Dining is on the formal side, and the décor follows suit. There’s no need to throw on heels or a suit, but the environment sets the tone for the meal. In the afternoons you can choose from a selection of more traditional plates, and in the evenings you’ll find almost every Korean delight you can think of among the pages of the menu.

Wanting to try a few staples, I chose an afternoon meal. Don’t trust the online listings for opening hours, the waiters tell me they’ve been meaning to change them for years. If you arrive after 2pm expecting to eat, you might be told the kitchen has closed.

But if you call in advance or get there in time, try some traditional food.  A classic is bibimbap, which literally means ‘mixed meal’, and consists of a bowl of rice with vegetables. Bibimbap is prepared at your table, and before serving, a final touch of sesame oil and gochujang, a spicy red pepper and chili paste, is added.

A second dish you shouldn’t skip ordering here is bulgogi – thin slices of sirloin beef marinated with soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, pepper, scallions, mushrooms and other “secret” spices that neither the chef or the waiter would reveal. They even denied bribes. I only ordered one, but given time and a second stomach, I could have happily eaten two. The flavor combination was exquisite and the meat was extremely tender.

Bi Won’s prices range from $60-$100. For more information, click here.

2. Bo- Sung (Formerly Mido)

Marked only by a sign that says 보 줄도, the stairs behind the plastic butcher’s curtain that hangs over the door look like they lead to nowhere. In reality those stairs lead to the meat heaven that is Korean barbecue.

The restaurant is a lot to take in if you have never had the experience before.  There are about 15 rows of tables, with silver exhaust fans hanging from the ceiling over a charcoal grill that is built in to the table itself.  Korean barbecue, gogi gui, literally means ‘roasted meat’, and refers to the Korean method of grilling beef, pork, chicken or other types of meat.

At Bo-Sung there’s no menu. Just pick a table and sit down. After the waiter brings the hot coals over and lights the fire in the tiny stove, he places a metal grill over the coals and it’s time to eat.

The table fills up before your eyes. Little bowls or banchan, filled with tripe, rice, bean sprouts, pickled parsnip, various forms of seaweed, sautéed spinach, peanuts marinated in soy and the most traditional kimchi are the normal accompaniments to Korean barbecue. Along with ten or so side dishes, come steamed pork dumplings, oysters and some sort of fried white fish that the waiter’s wouldn’t name.

Nonetheless, the centerpiece of the whole meal is meat. Meat. Meat. A plate piled high of raw beef and spicy pork. But what makes Korean barbecue so unique is that you cook the meat yourself.

The way your meal tastes is also up to you, with flavours like soy, miso with soy, garlic and chili on hand, for $80 you can have all the food you can handle.

For more information, click here.

3. Sinko

If your palate is lacking some fire, Sinko can light it. Specializing in family-style meals and as a place to hold events, the restaurant itself is huge. A location often chosen for celebrations within the Korean community, the space feels festive. And the entire menu is made for sharing.

One of the dishes was a meeting of cultures, so to speak. “A Korean picada” as owner Roberto Chung called it, the real name is a little harder to pronounce.  Ra bok ki, a combination of white fish, cabbage, bok choy, rice and ramen noodles and a lot of gochujang spicy red pepper and chili paste, made tears well up in my eyes.

Another elusive item besides hot hot hot spice, that’s hard to find here in BA, is iced coffee. Sinko has it, along with many other delicious cold drinks. This is a place to share and come with friends. Just make sure they can handle spicy, otherwise they’ll leave crying.

Sinko’s prices range from $50-$100. For more information, click here.

4. Estilo Coreano

Who said Puerto Madero was the most expensive place to eat out in BA? Enter Estilo Coreano.

On the quest to find the best of the best for Korean food, this restaurant definitely wins for the best price. In this instance, the saying ‘you get what you pay for’ is true.

With $40 you can eat in semi-Korean food in a non-Korean environment. The plus side of this? Estilo Coreano is the most accessible Korean restaurant and has the most modern feel. You get everything you would expect with the Puerto Madero scene; lavish chandeliers with black crystal accents, chic floor-standing paper lanterns and paintings adorning every wall.

The fixed price lunch menu was basic but affordable. A complimentary soup and rolls start the meal, very porteño, not very Coreano. The dish of the day includes a take on a traditional dish with rice, and a choice of dessert is included in the deal. My choice of a wok style chicken bulogogi was average, but then wok is not a traditional cooking style for bulogogi, and chicken is not often used as the selection of meat.

At night the menu shifts up a gear, and perhaps so does the quality. For $65 you can enjoy a chef’s tasting menu with a small sampling of the various main dishes on offer. Whilst the food isn’t the most traditional, the location certainly makes up for it.

For more information click here.

5. Casa Feliz: 행복한 가정

A happy find: Walking off the streets of Barrio Flores into Casa Feliz, was like going from Buenos Aires to Seoul. The walls are a pastel green, and bamboo plants growing out of rectangular pots line the front windows of the restaurant. With not a porteño in sight, this was clearly a spot in the barrio that only people who live nearby would ever find… unless you are a gringa wandering around Flores looking for some fine Korean food.

The specialty at Casa Feliz is soup. Koreans eat soup with almost every meal of the day and almost every customer had a bowl of steaming soup in front of them – a sure sign that it’s the thing to order. Tteok-manduguk dumpling soup was my selection and the beef broth came with mandu, Korean stuffed dumplings, chives, pork, rice noodles and egg.

The only way to really understand the menu is to read Korean, but if you’re far from fluent, there are pictures to guide you in your selection, and some choices have a brief explanation in Spanish.

Don’t be surprised if you get funny looks on entering – you’ll almost certainly be the only non-Korean customer. After your soup, walk down the street a little to the nearest kiosko and get a Korean ice cream to top off your meal. But don’t expect to find any Bon-Bon frozen goodies – only mango, watermelon and aloe vera treats fill those freezers.

Casa Feliz’s prices range from $40-$60. For more information, click here.

Fed-up of facturas? Sick of steak? If you’ve had your fill of Argentine cuisine, sometimes what you crave most is good grub from home, exactly the way your Mum/Mom/Mamma/Maman makes it. In a city packed full of restaurants boasting every type of cuisine from Peruvian to Japanese, hungry customers really are spoilt for choice. To help you, we’ve focused on British, North American, Italian and French restaurants and come up with these five favourites.

1. Gibraltar, San Telmo

Highly regarded as the most authentic British pub in Buenos Aires, Gibraltar has been bringing a piece of the UK to Argentines and ex-pats alike since 2001. The bar’s longevity and proximity to hostels makes for a good mix of tourists and locals. Bosses lived in England for a number of years and were keen to bring the pub concept back to BA with them. Located in San Telmo and fronted by a traditional sign, the interior is attractive dark wood, tables and booths throughout several rooms, a pool table and a small beer garden.

Food reflects the multicultural British cuisine – traditional pies, fish and chips and beefburgers are joined by Thai Green Curry and pizza. The chicken strips with wide chips are highly recommended. Tasty puddings include brownie with ice cream, banoffee pie and lime cheesecake. What’s nice is that you queue and pay to order rather than waiting for service at your table. Happy hour is from 6-9pm, where you can sample the beer and many varieties of whiskey.

Open daily midday-5am. Mains around $40. For more information, click here.

2. The Office, Las Cañitas

As you’d expect from classic American grub, The Office specialises in burgers. There are six varieties and, if you can’t decide between them, you can order mini versions of three or five of them. My personal favourite is the tantalising Californiana, a burger accompanied by guacamole, cheddar, bacon and rocket. The Clásica contains caramelised onions, mozzarella and pickles; the BBQ Bacon is what it says on the tin – bacon, barbecue sauce and an onion ring. Aside from burgers, Yankees pining for home will go nuts for chicken wings, fried mozzarella cubes (definitely worth a try!), cheesy fries and ranch dressing (an irresistible combination of mayonnaise and garlic, for those not in the know). Desserts include New York cheesecake, apple crumble and the most authentic brownie this side of Texas.

Owner Alan Epstein moved to Buenos Aires from Las Vegas in 2007 and opened the restaurant in December 2010, having noticed a lack of good American food. Customers consist of ex-pats and Argentines and Epstein sometimes invites friends to hang out, which adds to the friendly, informal atmosphere. Downstairs has more of a diner feel whilst the roof terrace has old movies projected onto the wall and a classy bar with an impressive drinks menu (Mojitos, Bloody Marys, Caipirinhas).

Open nightly from 7pm. Mains around $30. For more information, click here.

3. California Burrito Company, various locations

US-born chain manager Alec Hart took on the business a while back and believes CBC is one of the city’s few providers of quality Mexican food. The first restaurant opened in Microcentro, which was followed by another twelve over sixteen months. Now CBC branches can be found in lands as far-flung as Uruguay, Chile, Colombia and Panamá.

Far from being an ex-pat hangout, meal times in the restaurant are crammed with Argentines. “Young professionals come here because they’re discerning and care about what they’re putting in their bodies,” explains Hart. “We don’t cut corners – our food doesn’t contain lard, MSG or excessive salt.” Nothing is frozen (in fact, the site doesn’t even have a freezer!) and only sweet corn is canned. Even the sour cream is made from scratch.

The range comprises tacos, quesadillas and burritos, filled with lomo, chicken breast or pork. Argentines need not fear – Hart is a strong believer in leaving condiment-adding to the customer so the food can be as spicy as you desire. Accompaniments include nachos, beans, salads and homemade salsas. They also sell beer, soft drinks and cookies for dessert.

Offers include Taco Tuesday (three tacos and a small drink for $30), Margaritas para Mujeres ($10 between 8pm and 10pm) and two-for-one beers on a Friday. The Microcentro restaurant is fitted with a bell that can be rung on exit to show appreciation. Throughout my visit, the bell rings frequently – a sure sign of satisfied customers.

Open 11am-11pm, Monday-Friday; 12 noon-midnight Saturday and 2-10pm Sunday. Mains $22-$36. For more information, click here.

4. Sette Bacco, Recoleta

If you haven’t yet made the pilgrimage down Agüero to this Italian restaurant, you’re in for a treat. The brick walls and ceiling softly lit by candle-shaped bulbs make for a cosy atmosphere, combined with the class of crisp white tablecloths and immaculate glassware. Background music manages to be both unobtrusive and funky and a bread basket of little cheese-topped buns is brought to your table as you wait.

Owner and chef Daniel Hansen, originally from Jujuy, trained in New York and fell in love with Italian food, which he describes as “the best in the world”, on his first visit to il bel paese. He has since devoted himself to an authentic learning of the cuisine. Sette Bacco has been open in the evening for the last eight years and as of two weeks ago, by popular demand, now opens its doors also at midday.

The lunch menu is simpler and lighter but you certainly won’t go hungry: for $65 you can have a soup or salad starter, a main (either pasta-based such as tortellini, gnocchi or spaghetti, or a chicken breast), a dessert (such as apple strudel, lemon sorbet or homemade ice cream) and a glass of wine or soft drink. The evening menu is extensive. Starters include pizza and aubergine topped with parmesan, whilst the mains menu flaunts numerous kinds of pasta (even five types of risotto), fish, meat and polenta. If you still have room for dessert, try the panna cotta, homemade dulce de leche mousse or tiramisú. The pièce de résistance, in my opinion, is the Trilogy, a semi-frozen dessert involving layers of biscuit, dulce de leche, chantilly and chocolate ice-cream. Delicious!

Open daily 12.30-3pm and from 8.30pm. Mains $40-60. For more information, click here.

5. Brasserie Pétanque, San Telmo

Located on a quiet corner of San Telmo on the beautiful cobbled street of Defensa, this French brasserie oozes charm and class. The interior is large and uniform with white pillars and cheer brought by yellow-mounted windows and doors. The bar is beautifully presented and boasts an impressive wine list. In addition to the inside chairs, you can opt to sit on a cushioned bench or outside.

With the lunch menu, for around $65 you can have a glass of wine, starter, main and dessert. The evening menu provides more choice, however. Starters include quiche lorraine, gazpacho, pâté, oysters and onion soup, which comes highly recommended by owner Pascal Meyer. Follow this with a main of meat, fish or pasta. There are traditional options such as rabbit with Dijon mustard, boeuf bourguignon and steak tartare, as well as some surprises: champagne-soaked salmon ravioli and trout with almonds. This mix of the traditional and new rolls over to the dessert menu where nestled among classics such as fondant, profiteroles and apple tart, you’ll find lemon mousse laced with vodka and orange crème brûlée.

Open Tues-Sun 12.30-3.30pm and 8.30pm- midnight. Mains $45-$75. For more information, click here.

Think traditional Peruvian cuisine here in Buenos Aires and the first thing that springs to mind may well be a chifa around Congreso or Abasto. Think upmarket Peruvian cuisine, and the most likely thing to pop into your head are the Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurants that are mixing ceviche with sushi throughout the city.

Well, perhaps it’s time to think again, as combining traditional and gourmet Peruvian cuisine is the core theme of Astrid & Gastón.

Brainchild of Peruvian masterchef Gastón Acurio, Astrid & Gastón was voted one of the 50 best restaurants in the world earlier this month at the prestigious San Pellegrino awards in London. The awards, which are considered to be the Oscars of the culinary industry, ranked the restaurant number 42, making it the first time an Argentine restaurant has featured in the listing.

I decided to head along and see if the restaurant stood up to its ranking.

Astrid & Gastón Buenos Aires, located in Palermo ‘Botanico’, has been open for two years and is one of eight of the restaurants of the same name that have spread around Latin America and Europe over the last decade. The concept is one that is almost unique in Buenos Aires – top end yet traditional Peruvian cuisine, in a stunning setting.

The magnificent 1920s French-style mansion and former petit hotel has over a hundred covers, which are spread around various smaller lounges, linked by a grand staircase and passageway, ensuring an intimate dining experience. The use of a variety of rooms guarantees a cosy setting even on a quieter week night, as it would be hard to make the restaurant feel empty. The décor lives up to the building’s history: ornate mirrors, gold-leaf trimmed ceilings and crystal chandeliers, along with other period touches, which give the place a Renaissance appearance.

Complimenting the setting is the food. Acurio uses a myriad of indigenous ingredients and traditional cooking methods fused with international influences to create beautifully conceived dishes, from classic ceviches to more elaborate combinations, all of which pay tribute to basic staples of traditional Peruvian cuisine, such as potatoes and chilies.

In Peru there are around 2,500 varieties of potatoes and the restaurant is proud to use seven of them, including the famous yellow potato. Astrid & Gastón bring to the table ‘causas’, a dish traditionally made of yellow potato, chili, lemon juice, oil and salt. The name originates from the Quechua word ‘Kausay’, and is commonly either stuffed or an accompaniment to other foods. At Astrid & Gaston one of the starters fuses the causa with giant prawns, cherry tomatoes and quail eggs, and it is delicious.

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Another traditional Peruvian ingredient, ‘rocoto’, is used in the ‘Ceviche Clasico’. The rocoto is a kind of chili pepper native to Peru and Bolivia that has been cultivated since it was domesticated some 5,000 years ago. As the ceviche was served, we were warned that the little strip of red chili was very spicy. For an Argentine palette it would be perhaps a bit overpowering, but I was surprised to find that although it definitely had a kick, there was also flavour among the flames, making for an intense, but enjoyable, compliment to the tangy lime of the ceviche.

The food is locally-sourced insofar as possible, something chef Roberto Grau admits is difficult when cooking Peruvian cuisine to such a standard in Buenos Aires. He explains that this is mostly because of the climate – as the seasons are much more stated in Argentina than in Peru, there are sometimes problems in winter; and staple ingredients, such as the yellow chilli, are sent down from Peru directly, or replaced on the menu.

Obviously, other features are more easy to get hold of in Argentina, with a variety of dishes incorporating the best cuts of beef, as well as seafood dishes from the Atlantic and some freshwater fish from the south of the country.

The Astrid & Gastón brand pays tribute to the partnership Acurio has with his wife, Astrid Gutsche, who he met working at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. And it is clear from the design of the dishes that more than a touch of France has carried itself onto the menu. In fact, as a self-proclaimed ambassador of Peruvian cuisine, Acurio uses his flagship chain of Astrid & Gastón to show that delicious combinations can be made for upmarket diners.

The high-end influences are reflected in the price – which if you hadn’t guessed by the selection of Buenos Aires elite on the other tables, is more than you probably should spend on a meal. But it is only as much as the food and dining experience are worth: if you’re looking for a place to splash out for that special occasion, Astrid & Gastón might just well be it.

Likely to be sitting next to: Old money

Some people will love: The elegant setting

My favourite dish: Call me dull, but the ceviche clasico

Likely to spend: $150-200 per person

Throughout history, factories were scarcely regarded as pleasant places or reservoirs of the unexpected. Creativity was reduced to the act of serial production. However, this one finding may transform those grey images of pipes and toxic smoke. And it all starts with an oxymoron: The Food Factory.

A hip restaurant located in the also trendy heart of Palermo Hollywood, The Food Factory defies tradition and breaks boundaries. Originality is the order of the day and has permeated the restaurant’s very birth. As world-renowned chef and owner Tomás Kalika explains, The Food Factory’s concept was inspired in Tim Burton’s wacky adaptation of ‘Charlie and the Chocolate Factory’.

The open, 90m² kitchen is regarded as a creative space, where almost anything can be licked into shape. With methodical and consistent work, the menu is produced and changed seasonally by Kalika himself. The idea is to offer a dynamic experience which exceeds labels. Hence, The Food Factory’s uniqueness relies in its diverse, uncategorized nature.

The menu

So, what about food? The menu is divided into different sections, each providing a different culinary experience.

If you happen to be wandering the streets of Palermo in the morning and get hungry, you could stop by in The Food Factory for breakfast. ‘TFF healthy start’ offers a vitalizing combination of fresh fruits, muesli or cereal, yogurt, orange juice and a hot drink. Else, if the fruity and healthy is not the right fit, you may want to order the ‘Full start’, consisting of a hot drink, three medialunas or toasts, orange juice, various jams and eggs of your choice. Feel free to order scrambled eggs, fried eggs or a cheese, ham, onion or mushrooms omelette.

Weather it is lunch or dinner time, The Food Factory offers tantalising main courses. ‘TFF green salad’ – green veggies, croutons, tomatoes, avocado, poached egg, shallots, garlic balsamic vinaigrette – and baked octopus are not to be missed. Also, sandwiches are a big thing and a favourite amongst clients is the salmon sandwich. Ciabatta loafs containing smoked salmon slices, guacamole, tomatoes and Dill cream cheese pair up with papas rotas. The specialty potatoes are three times cooked, crispy on the outside yet extra creamy on the inside. Plus, salads and sandwiches can be taken away.

Yet, if you cannot make up your mind and want to have everything on the menu, there is a range of miniature, hot or cold dishes that sum up The Food Factory’s culinary alternatives.

Feeling adventurous? Then try chocolate and hazelnuts parfait with beet ice cream. Or, you may want to have the espresso and cardamom crème brûlée.

Fancy a cuppa? Tea is also served with a variety of pastries and bakery delights.

Of integration, interaction and inspiration

Atmosphere seems to be the ultimate complement to The Food Factory’s menu. Predominantly white and neat, the restaurant is spacious and alluring. Architectural and modern, its furniture and décor combine clean lines with a relaxing vibe.

As for the kitchen, its integration is not only achieved by its being open. The obvious is united with the subtle and translates into one of a kind wallpaper, a cohesive piece that brings The Food Factory concept together. The wallpaper is a photomontage, customized piece. It exposes Kalika’s old recipes and utensils, his working tools that have accompanied him throughout his career.

The Food Factory proposes an integral experience where customers can be part of the actual cooking process. Its contagious inspiration is sure to have you trying different flavours. It is a true feast for the senses.

In a country famed for its succulent steaks, cracking pork chops and greasy panchos, who needs seafood in Buenos Aires? Contrary to popular thought the city is overrun with tasty dishes sourced from the sea.  If you are looking for a lighter and more refreshing meal in the heat of the summer then here are a few delicious seafood restaurants that are a must-see.

1. Chan Chan, Monserrat

Authentically Peruvian, Chan Chan is the place to come if you are looking for a spicy and refreshing meal. Decorated wall to wall with eccentric murals of mountain landscapes and shelves adorned with religious idols, the restaurant has a vibrant atmosphere, everyone shouting to be heard over one another.

Serving up generous and inexpensive portions, the one-room restaurant has become incredibly popular, so you may have to wait for up to half an hour for a table. Offering only a modest range of beers and wines, the pisco sours are a winning alternative. The white fish is light and tasty but above all else the mixed ceviche is the key dish of the restaurant: flavoursome, fresh, and delicious. Try not to be too tempted by the baskets of bread, fried corn and spicy salsas while you wait for your food and save room for the ceviche. Highly recommended.

Open Tues-Sun, midday and at night. Prices from $20 for a main and $69 for a big ceviche to share. Do not accept cards. For more information, click here.

2. Cafe San Juan, San Telmo

Not typically known as a seafood restaurant, Cafe San Juan has a surprising amount of delicious fish dishes. Simply designed, the restaurant is laid out with an open kitchen where the diners can watch Chef Leandro Cristóbal at work. “The fish is as fresh and seasonable as we can get it,” he states, holding up a huge bright salmon to demonstrate the quality.

The menu changes frequently, depending on what Leandro can get hold of, and the staff are extremely knowledgeable, going into minute detail about each meal. On one visit the salmon was light and fragrant and the spicy fish curry was a welcome surprise, both portions being large enough to share. They hold a wide selection of wines, mainly stocking Argentine but with some French bottles in among them. With a laid back and warm atmosphere the restaurant has everything, and is not to be missed.

Open Tues-Sun, midday and night. Mains cost around $70. Do not accept cards. For more information click here.

3. Sipan, Centro

Celebrated as one of the best fusion restaurants in the city, Sipan combines traditional Peruvian and Japanese dishes. The menu successfully merges the two distinct styles of food offering both sushi and ceviche using exotic and unusual combinations. Elegantly designed, the restaurant reflects the food it serves: stylish, refreshing, and innovative, particularly the octopus and the shellfish.

The service is helpful and the atmosphere welcoming and energetic. The price range is a little steeper than others at around $130 for a meal, but the wine list is good along with the Pisco sours it is renowned for.

Open Mon-Sat, 12-4pm/8pm-midnight. Do not accept cards. For more information, click here.

4. Nemo, Palermo

In a cosy and atmospheric building, Nemo is tucked away in amongst the surrounding stylish and modern establishments. As a seafood restaurant, Nemo is to be taken more seriously than its name suggests: it provides a wide range of seafood including trout and shellfish risotto. Each of the fish can be served with a varied choice of dishes, for example potatoes, salad or stir-fried vegetables, and is prepared with whichever sauce takes your fancy.

The staff are friendly and helpful, the atmosphere is warm and comfortable, and the prices start at a very reasonable $35. All in all Nemos is a hit, even if it may take you a while to find it.

Open Mon-Sun, all day. For more information, click here.

5. Azul Profundo, Retiro

Renowned in the city for its Sushi, Azul Profundo does not disappoint. Offering a range of traditional niguiri, sashimi, and maki rolls, the restaurant is a pleasant reminder that traditional sushi still exists in the city. The chain offers a range of either single style dishes or combination plates with enough variety to satisfy a big party.

The restaurant itself is modern, simple, and stylish, with surrounding fish tanks and blue walls decorated with fitting shark murals to give the sensation that you are submerged in amongst sealife. Although perhaps a little too dark, the atmosphere is cheerful and friendly. The staff are not well known for being attentive but the refreshing sushi makes up for what lacks in other areas. Prices range from between $13 for six typical maki rolls to $288 for a huge platter to share, so the food can be as reasonable or as extravagant as you choose. Azul Profundo also helpfully offers traditional meat dishes for those avoiding raw fish.

Open Mon-Fri, 12pm-4pm / 8pm-midnight, Sat and Sun 8pm-midnight. For more information click here

Wander around Palermo ‘Hollywood’ these days and you would be hard pushed to miss the plethora of ‘natural’ restaurants and cafes that have sprung up in the last year or so.

Kensho may be the newest kid on the block, having opened its doors at the end of August, but it is by no means the newest in town, having moved from its previous location. In fact, Buddhist founder and chef Máximo Cabrera has nearly a decade of cooking experience under his belt, having cut his teeth in the kitchen at Bio, Buenos Aires’ first organic restaurant, in 2002. After a few years, Máximo founded Kensho, which began as one of the first closed-door restaurants in Buenos Aires. He then opened Kensho publicly a few years ago in Villa Ortuza, before moving to the current location in Palermo, where he has expanded to include the boutique and deli that feature next door to the restaurant.

So what makes Kensho stand out from the eco-masses?

The slick, chic appearance? True, the interior fits in with true Palermo style – clean simple décor, with not a lick of apple-coloured paint or a hint of wicker in sight. The green philosophy goes much deeper than appearances, so deep in fact, that the restaurant does not try to prove itself on appearances alone. It looks like any other classy, good restaurant with its timeless style.

This was a conscious decision on Máximo’s part – he aims to appeal to people beyond the regular consumers of restaurants whose fare is organic, vegetarian and raw. Yet the philosophy is a throbbing vein that runs through the heart of everything the space is about – every detail has been taking into account. Customers have the option of bottled or filtered tap water, the menu is made from 100% recycled paper, the cover of which explains the ethos behind the food, which changes with the season – proof of Máximo’s adherence to the philosophies of slow food, a movement he is part of in Argentina. The Slow Food movement was born in Italy, and adheres to the policy of using food that is local, grown in a sustainable way – aka organic – and offers a fair price to producers. In Kensho, the concept of changing the menu with the seasons also follows ancient Chinese methods.

So does the food cut it?

We opted for the ‘experience’ which comes in four courses, at a price of $160 for two. It is a good way to try more of a range of food on the menu, especially if some of the options sound alien to you.

The Trio de Dips were accompanied by a variety of different breads, all of which were 100% wholegrain and homemade. Tastebuds were tickled by the fanciful black bean guacamole and nut pâté; a little green ball made of sunflower seeds, rocket and honey. The combinations made a change from a cream cheese dip and processed white bread that is the standard fare in most restaurants, as well as being healthier and far more interesting.

These were followed by two soups: lentil soup with cashew nuts and parsley; and butternut squash with an apple chimichurri, made of apple, canela and spices. Both were hearty, filling and warming for a chilly Spring evening.

Tofu Tandoori, tofu in a tandoori and orange sauce, accompanied by rice with basil and seaweed, was one of the main courses. I am not a tofu fan at all, fearing it falls into all the traps of being beige and bland, a stereotype of bad vegetarian fodder – but as Máximo explained, it is all about what you do with it, as it doesn’t have a particularly overwhelming flavour of its own. And he may have converted me with this one plate.

The other main, Crumble de Calabaza, was a combination of intense flavours and textures. The base was butternut squash coated in a crumble that was sweet in taste, but contrasted strongly with the melting goat’s cheese on top, accompanied by wild mushroom and beansprouts.

Dessert consisted of a platter with different tastings, each carrying names that reflect Máximo’s love of music: the vegan James Brownie, Banana Nirvana, a banana in a kind of batter, as well as vegan ice cream, and other delights.

We finished full, but not bloated, having tried various new food combinations. And it lives up to its name, in both senses – it really is a dining ‘experience’, and Kensho, which means ‘to wake up the imagination’, carries the slogan ‘food to wake you up’. And it does just that. It brings a new, different focus to the concept and act of eating, encouraging customers to think about where the food has come from, and to try new flavours and combinations. It is a three-dimensional experience, not one that is flat and leaves the diner lacking, as so many vegetarian restaurants unfortunately tend to.

Kensho is a place for food lovers – vegetarian or not. This is what Máximo had in mind when opening the new locale, and he has hit the bulls eye. He wants people to experiment, to alternate between meat and two veg (or meat and more meat, as is often the case in Argentina) and wants Kensho to open people’s eyes – and tastebuds – up to new ideas.

He is realistic in this aim, and the balance he has managed to strike is an intelligent one. Rather than painting the place green, Kensho is stylish and the philosophy goes deeper than a trend or a passing fad, ensuring that it will survive any changes in fashion. The wine menu is a reflection of this, and the emphasis is on quality above and beyond anything else.

As well as organic and biodynamic wines, the menu contains regular wines – again a conscious decision by Máximo. He says that when he first opened Kensho across town, he had wanted to only serve organic wines, but the industry is not as developed as the regular wine trade in Argentina, and he found that often the wines were somewhat lacking, and not up to the standard he wanted to reach. So now he has wines of varying prices and includes organic and biodynamic wines on the list, but the emphasis is on quality. This is mirrored in the drinks menu generally – there is a long list of cocktails and ‘refrescantes’ (longer drinks with less alcohol) and the clients are welcome to drop in to have a drink just as much as they are welcome to eat, another move aimed at tentatively opening Kensho up, and helping Máximo’s food philosophy reach a wider audience.

And he seems to firmly desire growth of a more sustainable food movement – so much so, he teaches cooking classes on Mondays, when the restaurant is closed, in Kensho’s kitchen.

We leave feeling we have learnt a lot and been given a privileged insight into Máximo’s ideology, which he translates into edible delights on a daily basis.

You might be drawn subconsciously over the road – La Poesia seems much more appealing at first sight, the warm orange-tinted lights and laughter spilling out onto the pavement mean it picks up the majority of the foot traffic on the corner of Chile and Bolivar.

But I would encourage you to stray to the opposite corner. The partially frosted windows add to the intimacy once inside, but make it hard to work out what awaits from the street. But venture in to El Baqueano and there is a Pandora’s box of culinary treasures awaiting you.

Born out of the idea that there are many animals native to Argentina that the visitor never tries due to the inundation of parrillas, Fernando Rivarola, from the south of Buenos Aires Province, opened El Baqueano in 2008.

The name was an explicit choice – ‘Carnes Autóctonas’ (meaning native meats), is a purposeful aim to come back to national cuisines.

From yacaré (a local caiman), hare, wild boar, ñandú (a local ostrich) and a range of seafood in a variety of guises, unless you are going to visit the four-corners of the country you will have a hard job trying these delicacies elsewhere.

“Beef isn’t even native to Argentina,” Fernando is quick to point out, highlighting the Spanish conquistadores’ decision to introduce cows nearly 500 years ago. Beyond the country’s famous pampas, cows don’t roam very far, and there are many regions where beef is not the traditional meat at all. But Argentina’s massive centralisation comes into play, and the popularity of beef from the famous pampas, combined with the industrialisation of the food chain, means other meats barely get a look in.

El Baqueano’s response is a tasting menu of five or seven courses that changes on a monthly basis, with options ranging from llama carpaccio, yacaré brochettes, hare risotto, wild boar bruschetta, and seafood such as langostinos from Puerto Madryn.

When asked how they get such a range of animals to the capital, Fernando explains they have slowly built up a network of faithful suppliers and they tend to buy the animals whole and do all the preparation themselves, both ensuring the butchering is done correctly and the maximum usage of the animal.

The tasting menu is a conscious decision too – the restaurant used to offer regular starters, main courses and desserts as well as the tasting menu, but they realised most clients were reluctant to commit to an entire course of one strange animal or unknown flavour, and would be more conservative in their selection. As a result they moved away from the traditional menu to a full tasting menu recently, giving clients the option of trying a variety of different foods, all prepared in ways that maximise the culinary experience.

The staff are well-versed in the produce and happily explain the menu (or reassure their clientele where necessary) as if keen to convert as many people as possible.

Fernando’s partner, Gabriela, is training to be a sommelier, and is on hand to make suggestions about the extensive wine list, which includes organic and biodynamic wines from around Argentina. As with the food, the wine on offer includes many grapes not commonly associated with Argentina viticulture, where Malbec reigns high. We tried a refreshing Pinot Gris from the Lurton bodega and a rose by Villa de la Luna, as well as a couple of lesser-seen reds. If clients prefer to bring their own bottles, El Baqueano does offer a corkage service.

The two desserts on the seven-course menu include a savoury and a sweet option. The savoury is a tasting of five cheeses, including a fondue and something that could be described as a savoury alfajor, both of which were a delight to someone who is on a constant search for cheese with a kick. This also went on to break some prejudices, proving there is cheese with flavour beyond blue or goat’s cheese. That tasteless yellow rubber-cum-elastic combination, which is unfortunately often the standard fare, does not have to be the norm.

A trip to El Baqueano will have you wondering if perhaps more cows could be used to make such cheeses, and more menus would explore Argentina’s other native meat options. If you are bored of bife and up for experimenting, I recommend you try this place.

The idea of puerta cerrada restaurants conjures up a hidden treasure behind the tightly-closed large doors you see here in Buenos Aires. As my friends and I walked down Corrientes in Almagro to A Little Saigon, I wondered what we’d find. The brightly lit lobby, Ben’s eager greeting, and the amazing smells that greeted us as we stepped into the elevator all gave a delectable hint.

The lights were fairly dim, but tea lights dotted the dining room, casting a wonderful warm glow. The table was laid, ready for the meal to come. Shoes were removed, as is customary in most Asian households. Thuy (pronounced “twee”) Lam came to greet us all with her bubbly energy. Thuy was born in Saigon in the aftermath of the Vietnamese War. She and her family fled Vietnam, and in 1980, they all ended up in the United States in North Carolina. Growing up, she spent many hours cooking with her parents, listening to their stories of the home country. She and Ben came to Buenos Aires to explore the many cultural offerings, and they contribute their many talents back to the community.

The dinner guests gathered round the small table in the corner where drinks and a scrumptious starter graced the table top. Small talk ensued as we got to know our dinner partners and had a taste of what was to come. Fried dumplings filled with pork and bamboo were accompanied by two dipping sauces, a simple soy sauce, and a hot sauce for people who wanted some kick.

A dozen people from Argentina, Australia, Europe and the US had congregated to have a ‘Meat Lovers’ Vietnamese family style dinner. The conversations started to flow more easily as the wine loosened up the group. Then, Thuy motioned for us to take our seats as dinner was nearly ready. We were treated to a short, intimate speech. It felt much more like we were friends in her home rather than paying guests at a restaurant. This was to be their last dinner before returning to the US for a month to celebrate their wedding. Many congratulations were given, and the happy couple served dinner.

The first course was spicy cabbage salad with shrimp and n??c ch?m dressing. Conversation died down as we tucked in with our chopsticks. The juices combined to make a zesty and fresh dish, with the cabbage and carrots giving the dish a nice light colour. The prawns peppering the salad were a delicious treat.

Serving plates piled high with meat of three varieties were placed on the tabletop for the second course. There was salty grilled pork ribs, caramelised pulled chicken, and sweet and spicy grilled beef accompanied by bowls of jasmine rice. The burst of flavour combinations delighted my taste buds. The Argentine aversion to the flavour combo of sweet and sour had left me lacking. We filled up on protein and eventually took a break to make room for the dessert that followed: chilled mung bean soup paired with cups of jasmine tea. This dessert was a light and palate-cleansing end to an excellent meal made and served by Thuy and Ben. I felt so welcome that I had to struggle not to rise up and do the dishes as I do in my friends’ homes.

This feeling of comfortableness is what they strive to bring to their guests each weekend as they open up their home and kitchen to a dozen strangers who share a delightful home cooked meal. Mission definitely accomplished.

Please view the MENU and FAQs page before making reservations with Thuy by emailing thuy@alittlesaigon.com or calling 15-6056-8823. http://alittlesaigon.com