As part of The Indy’s on-going villas series, we revisit Laura Mojonnier article on ‘curas villeros’ – priests who have been working out of the capital’s shantytowns for 40 years.
During my first trip to the villas of Buenos Aires, I felt as if I were in another city altogether, if not another country. These overcrowded, ramshackle settlements on the outskirts of the city are not the expat’s Buenos Aires, a city defined by French-influenced architecture, restaurants with two-hour waits, and overpriced month-to-month apartments.
This is the part of Buenos Aires in which Argentina’s poverty is tangible – from the rocky, unpaved mud roads, to flimsy buildings constructed from cinderblocks and scraps, to the depth of the stares that one receives as a tall, blonde white woman walking through the streets with the local Parish priest.

Padre Carrozza walks through villa 31 (photo/Julián Bongiovanni)
While it can be easy to forget about – or never even know about – the villas while living in the centre of Buenos Aires, there is a group of dedicated Catholic priests who have made serving these marginalised neighbourhoods their life’s work. Known as the curas villeros, these clerics have lived and worked in the villas for the past 40 years, becoming de facto community organisers, social workers, and authority figures in the barrios that so many have left behind.
The Situation Today
Today, there are about 20 priests living in the villas, located in the south and southwest of the city. In addition to standard priestly duties like conducting mass, hearing confession, and overseeing funerals, these priests engage in a host of community-building activities, from organising day care services to providing help for paco addicts to offering computer classes.
According to Father Martín de Chiara, who lives and works in Concepción Inmaculada in Barrio Ramon Carrillo, the goal of the priests is to help the villa residents find agency and a sense of meaning in their own lives, despite the obstacles they face.
“We want to support them to study, to have dreams and to realise them, to develop as people, to find meaning in life, to find their path and follow it and be happy,” he said. “We work a lot in prevention of drugs and delinquency, we help adolescents and young people find meaning in their lives so that they don’t turn to drugs or delinquency to escape…Our work is not just religious, it’s also human and social promotion.”
The parishes in the villas become more than a place to worship the Christian god – they are a place to get a home-cooked meal, to learn a trade, or to commiserate with others whose families have been touched by drug addiction.
The Church has also become a place of celebration. De Chiara’s parish, for instance, held a massive party for el Día del Niño in August, with more than 900 neighbourhood children in attendance.

The Dia del Niño party at Father Martín de Chiara's (pictured) parish (photo/Jessie Akin)
In Bajo Flores, the church grounds of Santa Maria Madre del Pueblo Parish function like a fully-fledged community centre. Services include a daycare centre for 72 children; classes that teach computer skills, carpentry, painting, electricity, welding, and sewing; soccer and hockey clubs; a youth band; and a support group for relatives of paco addicts.
With over 40,000 residents in Bajo Flores, there is a lot of need. There are two other chapels in the villa in addition to Santa Maria, and the curas villeros are currently looking to buy another building to expand their activities. They want to increase class offerings and start a live-in care and rehabilitation facility for recovering addicts. (Currently, those looking to end their dependency can come to the Church for breakfast and lunch, a place to shower, a fresh pair of clothes, and to speak to someone to help them enter a local treatment facility).
“Most of the people are looking for a better life,” said Father Gustavo Carrara, one of three priests from Santa Maria. “The difficulty is that they have a lot fewer opportunities.”
In Search of a Better Life
The majority of villa residents are new arrivals to Buenos Aires. They come looking for work from the more impoverished interior of the country or from neighbouring countries like Bolivia and Paraguay. Those who come from abroad are often in search of healthcare: they have a sick family member whose expensive treatment they cannot afford back home. So they come to Argentina to take advantage of the free public system.
But then they often find themselves in financial circumstances that are only marginally better than back home. They commute to the city centre to work in construction and housekeeping, earning just enough to put food on the table. Some cannot find work at all.
Despite dire economic circumstances, Father José María Di Paola, believes that other Argentines could learn from villa residents.
“We believe that the villas have a lot to teach the rest of the city,” he said. “Our job is not to change this fact, but [also] to learn what they have to teach us.”
Known as Padre Pepe, Di Paola has become the leader of this generation of curas villeros, rising to prominence in Argentina after holding a press conference in 2009 after he received an in-person death threat while walking through his villa in Barracas.

Padre Pepe (centre) and Cardinal Bergoglio in Barracas (photo/Julián Bongiovanni)
During her time in the villas, author and journalist Silvina Premat, whose book on these priests – ‘Curas Villeros: de Mugica al Padre Pepe, Historias de Lucha y Esperanza’ – was published this year, said she witnessed a profound sense of community and an application of Christian values that is less prevalent in more affluent neighbourhoods.
“They maintain the values and the experience of faith that has an influence on their daily lives,” she said. “They help their neighbours who are homeless, by giving them food, letting them use the bathroom. This is a solidarity that is lost in the center of the city. Could you imagine letting a homeless man in to use your bathroom?”
Carrara agreed. “It’s a more popular culture, that has great cultural wealth,” he said. “I learned a lot of the people’s faith, of a grand religiosity. Its heart is more religious.”
Perhaps it is this popular religiosity that allows the priests to gain the respect of the villa residents so quickly, despite the recent secularlisation of Latin America as a whole, and Argentina in particular. Where the state has failed them and material wealth has eluded them, the Church has always been there.
“The presence of the state is not there,” Premat said of the villas. “The only people who have an authority are the priests. But they have a religious authority, not a political one. They are known in the streets as “Padre”, not their proper names. That is their identity.”
The Legacy of Mugica
The Catholic Church first made its mark in the villas of Buenos Aires in 1960s, when a group of priests who called themselves Los Sacerdotes para El Tercer Mundo (Priests for the Third World) moved into the impoverished neighbourhoods with an explicit commitment to social justice and political change. The now-legendary Father Carlos Mugica emerged as the movement’s leader, leading the charge for the government to establish the most basic living conditions in the villas, like proper sanitation, potable water, electricity, and gas.

A man holds up a picture of Father Mugica (photo/Julián Bongiovanni)
The tercermundistas were inheritors of liberation theology, a political-religious movement that spread through Latin America in the 1960s. In this time, many Catholic priests saw their role as relieving the poor from their suffering, and addressing the systemic political reasons that such profound inequalities existed across the continent. Mugica himself was a committed Peronist and socialist, calling Marx, Che Guevara, and Freud “grand profits of the Church in our time”.
“They are men that concerned themselves with or are concerned by mankind and by the human condition,” Mugica said. “Marx said that religion is the opiate of the masses. Marx probably would not feel this way if he had known people like Torres, Helder Cámara or Pope John XXIII.”
But the mission of this first wave of curas villeros received a major blow when Mugica was assassinated in 1974, most likely by the Triple A, a covert government-backed paramilitary organisation.
The ensuing military dictatorship along with the ascendancy to the papacy of the neo-conservative John Paul II in 1978 forced the tercermundistas to recede into the background along with their radical ideas.
But a smaller, quieter group of priests carried on with the work, rebuilding a sense of order and community in these neighbourhoods that had nearly been destroyed by the military regime as they tried to eradicate the villas.
The curas villeros were given an injection of support with the ascendency of Cardenal Jorge Bergoglio in 1998. Bergoglio vastly expanded the corps, arranged for the priest to live in pairs or small groups instead of alone in the villas, and encouraged the development of a support network in the form of monthly meetings and increased cash for projects.
“Without the help of the bishops and the priests from other neighbourhoods, our work would not be possible,” Carrara said. “There is not a good Church and a bad church.”
Indeed, the international Catholic Church as a whole appears to be more supportive of their work as a whole. In June, Di Paoloa – or Padre Pepe – was one of four men chosen from around the world to speak about contemporary issues facing priests at a Vatican conference in front of Pope Benedict XVI.
One major difference between the two generations of curas villeros is the lack of involvement in politics of today’s priests, perhaps making the contemporary movement more palatable to Church leaders.
De Chiara attributes this largely to the changing times – the 1970s were simply a highly politicized epoch in Argentina.
“I do not identify with a party on the left or the right, I identify with the mission of Christ,” he said. “I believe that Jesus chose the poorest, and I try to do the same.”
Despite the political neutrality, there are more continuities than discontinuities between the two groups.
“Our roots are in the first groups who went into the villas,” said Di Paola. “We continue working in the same places, but with different challenges. For example, in Mugica’s era, there wasn’t paco. It’s the same spirit, the same strength, but the challenges are different.”
Mugica remains a major inspirational figure. His picture is emblazoned on Church relics like the Communion chalice and framed on small monument in the corner of the Santa Maria chapel to fallen curas villeros, including Rodolfo Ricciardelli, Jorge Goñi, and Daniel de la Sierra.
The Priests have not totally given up on an increased government presence within the villas. They routinely petition for more schools and health centres to accommodate the swelling population, for example.
But De Chiara said that today’s priests are careful to recognise the limits of their role.
“The Church can support a transformation, but that is not our job,” he said. “Our job is to support the people. But to create a transformation, that is the job of the government.”