Megan Cassidy heads to Argentina’s 8th annual Tattoo Show to meet with organisers, a network of friends who have worked in the industry together for years.

Camera: Celeste Barrera
Editing: Luis Lopez

Full Back Tattoo (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

A quick Subte ride or walk down the street will reveal not only the Argentines’ bizarre penchant for shoes that look like cloven hooves, but also their love affair with a longer-lasting fashion statement: tattoos. A myriad of bright designs are sported by young and old, male and female, across all socioeconomic groups. When did the phenomenon of tattoos take off and how did it infiltrate every sector of society?

Diego Staropoli, 39, is an artist from Mandinga tattoo studio in Buenos Aires. “I opened a salon in 1993 but tattoos in Argentina really exploded around 2000 and even more so in the last five years. People see tattooed politicians and sports stars on TV and think, why not me?” It is true that tattoos, once solely associated with punks, bikers and criminals, have permeated mainstream culture to such an extent that seemingly everyone now flaunts them – from Brad Pitt and Beyoncé to Beckham and Britney.

The internet boom means that artists’ work is now not just to be found in specialist magazines; many salons have websites where potential clients can see photos and contact the artists, somewhat demystifying the profession. As tattoos become more commonplace, people are overcoming their fear of the risks associated, which are greatly minimised in hygienic salons with experienced artists. Their popularity has grown to such an extent that the annual Tattoo Show, held at the Bauen Hotel last weekend, drew in some 2000 visitors, a number of whom were families with children. Part of the draw was the presence of big name tattoo artists from North America such as Goethe (Mexico), who specialises in Ancient Mexican patterns, and Paul Booth (USA), famed for his macabre designs in black and grey and tattooist to metal bands such as Slipknot.

Robbie Ice and Diego Staropoli (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Staropoli first organised the Tattoo Show in Buenos Aires in 2004, having seen the popularity of his friend Robbie Ice’s convention – the first in the country – in Rio Gallegos, Santa Cruz. However, Staropoli was keen that his should be less elitist, more accessible and have more of a show feel, featuring rock bands and a fashion parade, as well as the annual coronation of a Miss Tattoo.

The rooms are abuzz with the whir of needles as punters choose tattoos from a plethora of stands, run by artists from the Bond Street Gallery and much further afield. One such punter is Clémence Barban, 23, from Paris. “I’d been thinking about getting a tattoo for about six months but waited for the right moment to do it. I wanted to choose something personal and I like the meaning behind the Ohm sign. I like discreet tattoos so I had it done on the nape of my neck. Most of the time I can’t see it – I was afraid I’d get tired of it after a few years. I was worried it would hurt but it wasn’t too bad. It stung a bit but it’s definitely bearable and only took twenty minutes.” Clémence notes that, in comparison with France, tattoos cost a third of the price here and that the high number of people with tattoos in Argentina makes it “less shocking.”

Each country has its own attitude to tattoos. Lenny, 45, from Denver, Colorado was “a black sheep in a white collar family” whilst growing up and worked as a body piercer before getting into tattoo art. “In the States, tattoos were part of a surf and skate culture that caught on years ago and is now old hat. It’s exciting to be in South America because it feels like something new is happening. Brazil and Argentina are at the forefront, perhaps because they’re more progressive. Peru is getting there but in Bolivia it’s barely got started.”

The reasons why people get tattoos are many and varied. Salomé Sanjin, 33, is one of the few female artists at the convention. She studied Fine Arts, married a tattoo artist and now has her own studio, Calavera No Chilla (English equivalent: You Play, You Pay). She explains: “It’s a very personal thing – some people get tattoos to remember a loved one or to commemorate a special occasion like a birth or a trip abroad. Some are purely for aesthetic reasons.”

Lenny at work (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

For Lenny, connecting to the customer and understanding where they are coming from is a responsibility that requires much intelligence, contrary to what many believe of the profession. “We have to approach it as a shaman would. We have to know about religion, symbolism and the folklore of other cultures.” In his opinion, the recent surge in spirituality has led to an increase in tattoos as when people see the body as a temporary dwelling for the soul, they care less about what is on it. “People have been decorating their bodies for thousands of years. It’s nothing new. The World War Two veterans all got tattoos but their children, the Baby Boomers, did not. It always goes in waves. Many of the current Generation Y have tattooed parents so perhaps they won’t get end up getting tattoos themselves.”

Whilst the popularity of tattoos may change with future generations, the tattoos themselves will not – since laser removal is painful and expensive, the importance of choosing wisely is paramount. Many artists are asked to cover up old tattoos which are badly drawn or contain names of ex-loved ones. Staropoli’s own first tattoo, a little flower like the guitarist’s from Kiss, was done in the men’s bathroom of a big fruit and vegetable market over twenty years ago. Despite the pain, it would be the first of many. He agrees that tattoos are highly addictive, especially as the quality of designs gets better and better. “Whereas clothes wear out, the skin is a living canvas. I’ve seen some incredible tattoos – they can look like paintings. But what’s good now might seem terrible in twenty years’ time.”