Summer is upon us, and it is high time you revise your sun lounging companions. The melting hot summers in Buenos Aires call for light and airy clothes in cool colours. And as your best ally when exercising the freedom of summer, your choice of beachwear should not be left to chance. We have consulted the experts to give us some tips on how to choose among the extensive range offered in stores.

Garza Lobos (press image)

Your best fashion investment for summer is a well-fitted swimsuit, but even more important is to choose the cover-ups and accessories that complete the look and make it suitable for urban wearing. Whether you’re spending those warm, lazy days in the park, on a rooftop pool, or heading to a far away beach, think tropical flowers and nautical stripes and you can’t go wrong this year.

During BAFWEEK in August, the biggest Argentine designers revealed their takes on summer 2013. Florencia Brunetto, fashion editor of Harper’s Bazaar Argentina, summarises this summer’s collections for The Indy. “This season is all about the prints and appliqués – that goes for all items of clothing from top to toe, and not least for swimwear. Optical flowers and jungle prints are predominant.”

“To complement your swimsuit on a beach day,” she says, “wear a light silk or cotton shirt (natural fibres allow the passage of heat, cooling the body from the sun), or for girls, a linen dress.” For accessories, Brunetto recommends “a wide-brimmed hat to protect from the sun, 40s style sunglasses á la Miu Miu, and finally, a big black-and-white leather bag, suitable for storing sunscreen, your summer read, and other necessities.”

Swimwear brand Mäda confirms that the flower appliqué trend is a must for swimwear this season; it is most flattering to wear it on the upper body. The brand’s designer Paula di Filippi still puts the classic triangle bikini first on the list of style favourites, closely followed by the strapless tube bikini top.

Bensimon (Press image)

The top-to-toe prints – perhaps best worn in moderation – shared the stage with another big trend at BAFWEEK: the nautical theme – a style that applies to both men and women this summer.

Rubén Troilo and Constanza von Niederhäusern, designers behind fashion brand Garza Lobos, have used a combination of the two biggest themes: flowery prints in contrast to marine stripes. “We have used prints inspired by old porcelain and interpreted this year’s marine trend with a two-tone nautical aesthetic in white, off white and sand, added to black or navy blue,” they describe.

They took inspiration from native dressing traditions of French Polynesia, which resulted in a collection with geometrical shapes and marine details in silk and linen with a relaxed fit. “Tops hang loosely on the shoulders and prints are flowery and tropical. Starting from the palest coral and shades of apricot ranging up to more intense fuchsia, the flowery colours contrast nicely with summer tanned skin,” state the designers. The tropical trend is best completed with brightly coloured accessories in organic materials.

In line with the nautical trend, men’s swimwear for this season should be striped and made of poplin. According to Diego Romero, designer of the brand AY Not Dead, shorts reach mid thigh. “Our swimwear for this season comes in darker shades like black and azure royale, a nuance of blue that is one of the main colours of the collection.”

Swim shorts are best combined with thin, long sleeved jumpers or cotton shirts for a sophisticated look. Continuing on the nautical theme, men’s inevitable must-have will be a pair of sailing shoes.

Diagnoal Norte Cupola (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

With its low buildings, eye-level graffiti, and outward sprawl into the provincia, Buenos Aires is often thought of as a “horizontal city”. In at least one respect, however, that impression merits modification. Buenos Aires is the South American city with the greatest number of dome-shaped roofs, or cupolas. About 300 can be found scattered throughout the capital in eccentric, beautiful, and seemingly infinite variations—from the heaven-stretching peak on San Martín and Diagonal Norte reinforcing the strong line of the “diagonal”; to the artillery-like projection set atop the blades of the now-defunct Confitería del Molino on Rivadavia and Callao; to the oval mirrors and intricate metalwork of the cathedral on Ayacucho and Rivadavia with its inscription in Catalán “No hi ha somnis impossible” (“There are no impossible dreams”); to the enormous mint half-globe of the Congreso building mooring Microcentro; to the double crowns of the Art Nouveau-style Otto Wulf building on Belgrano and Perú built by the eighth viceroy of Río de la Plata to house his 16 children.

A few of these cup-shaped roofs are in prominent locations, but many are not. They tend to top otherwise unremarkable buildings—walking briskly down an obscure side street, a viewer might miss one entirely if he or she chances not to look up. Whether one is conscious of them or not, however, the cupolas affect the skyline—and personality—of the city. Those interested in the social aspect of architecture might thus ask: Are these structures simply yet another eclectic urban element, or do they possess some greater significance?

The obvious place to begin an investigation would be the city’s many libraries. But a comb through the catalogues turns up disappointingly little—there is one book in the Biblioteca Nacional (notes on the aesthetics of the Immaculate Conception church in Belgrano), and nothing relevant in the Biblioteca del Congreso. Search results in the Universidad de Buenos Aires’ Facultad de Arquitectura, Diseño y Urbanismo: 0. Nor do the cúpulas necessarily draw the attention of tourists, who tend to register them only subconsciously as they chase down more attention-grabbing attractions.

Looking at the work of artists native to the city and familiar with its landscapes yields more fruitful (and colorful) results. Photographer Julio Fernández spent a year taking pictures of the cupolas from different angles and at different times of day; he’s found a reception in cultural centres around the country. Carlos Rios paints the cupolas in soft, impressionistic colours, as part of a quasi-phenomenological architectural project; for him, they have a “cosmic significance” in their “analogical relationship between the macrocosmos and the microcosmos, i.e. their reference to both the world and individual man.” And although it was a Chilean, Ángel Cruchaga Santa Maria, who wrote perhaps the most well-known traditional poem using the cupola as metaphor (“Es mi corazón como una cúpula / llena de cantos…”), Gustavo Cerati of the Argentine band Soda Stereo gives them a dark, majestic treatment in his 1988 track ‘Lo Que Sangra (La Cúpula)’.

No Hi Ha Somnis Impossibles - This building on Av. Rivadavia (at Ayacucho) was built in 1907 by Argentine architect Eduardo Rodríguez Ortega. He also designed the Palacio de los Lirios just down the street on Av Rivadavia. Both buildings have many detailes inspired by Gaudí. (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

In most of this art, the cúpula is treated in one way—as a form worth artistic consideration simply because of its beauty, as an “ideal” subject like a landscape or flower. If there is any thought behind its selection at all, it is the idea that the cupola is a crystallisation of the “romantic spirit” of the city and of the architects who built it. To quote the material promoting Fernández’ photography exhibition: “Those who constructed the city were able [with cupolas] to give expression to the romantic spirit of the landscape, in addition to brilliantly endowing it with a magnificent work of architecture.”

This idea of a “romantic spirit” is rather misguided. Nearly all of the cupolas are remnants of the 19th and 20th century immigrant waves, when French, German, Italian, and Belgian architects began to use materials such as iron and zinc rather than the previously-favored brick and wood, and imported aesthetic ideals such as the dome rather than adopting the simpler Rioplatense style. Most were built as commissions for the bourgeois Argentine upper classes. If there was any “romance” in the construction, it referred not to the landscape or the architects, but to the vision those ordering the buildings had of themselves.

In this century the construction of cúpulas has for all intents and purposes come to a standstill. But in the ’50s and ’60s their presence in the city served as a continuous reminder that an alternative existed to the modish functionalism of ‘Latin American Brutalism’, with its cost-effective repetition, prefab parts, and rhetoric of decent living standards for the masses instead of singular luxury. (An excellent example of this “box within a box” architecture in Buenos Aires is the Banco de Londres y América del Sur.)

Contrast this with the dome, which like the medieval gothic arch unapologetically projects grandeur, aiming to lift the viewer out from the humdrum of the everyday. In the case of churches, this means toward God—but the dome’s aura of nobility has also made it a favored choice for government buildings, and a symbol of earthly power. Indeed, the Spanish word for cupola—“cúpula”—possesses the secondary meaning of political, military, or business leadership; examples provided by the translation website WordReference are “la ~ del partido“, the party leadership; “la ~ militar“, the leaders of the armed forces; and “la ~ de la empresa“, the upper echelons of a company.

In the barrio Flores, a triple set of cupolas (one belonging to the basílica, two to the Banco de la Nación Argentina) loom over the plaza—luxury and commanding heights on one side of the Av. Rivadavia, homelessness and insecurity on the other. There’s nothing terribly new about the contrast. One might remember the roots of the word “domus”—in ancient Rome, the elite often lived in elaborate, cupola-topped marble residences, while the lower and middle classes lived in crowded flats called “insulae”. The two types of homes were often found intermingled on the very same street.

Otto Wulf building at Belgrano and Peru (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

The false “romance of the cúpula” in the city may not be entirely negative. It has provided an impetus, even if uncritical or unconscious, for the restoration of a number of deteriorating domes like the Otto Wulf building, which have suffered from the effects of weather or time. The push is necessary: the government hasn’t been known to restore old edifices without pressure, and in recent years, in the absence of serious opposition, it has torn down a number of historically valuable sites. (Something grassroots organisations like Basta de Demoler have sprung up to prevent.) Despite their complicated past, the majority of the cúpulas are genuinely beautiful, and should be not only restored but promoted as touristic attractions.

To truly be effective, however, the process of advocacy needs to go hand-in-hand with reevaluation. Gothic churches were once considered a mere relic of the Dark Ages, and even a threat; their defenders were thus forced to turn out not simply nostalgic paeans but also arguments explaining why the buildings were not simply petrified relics of a dead past. A host of architectural critics in Buenos Aires today write on a range of topics, from Beatriz Sarlo’s analysis of architectural reification and the possibilities for reinvention (in a study of the shopping mall), to the attempts of Enrico Tedeschi to theorize the spiritual possibilities of architecture in the midst of secular urban life. These are possible starting points—the cúpula awaits its critic.

Spoils from an expensive Palermo shopping excursion. (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

When shopping in Buenos Aires comes to mind, I imagine the café-lined streets of Palermo Soho, filled with trendy shops and even trendier consumers. I picture soft leather jackets, tall boots and structured handbags in all cuts and colors, framed by the grand picture windows of the poised Recoleta neighborhood. I feel the sensation of entering a buzzing Alto Palermo on a busy Saturday to comb through crowds in Zara and Maria Cher, Starbucks in hand.

Two years ago, this was my reality. With dollars still in my US bank account and the peso at a relatively good exchange rate, I steadily shopped for what I thought were good deals among the best of the best in BA. But I am sorry to say, ladies and gentlemen, a peso salary and inflation have caught up to yours truly. Long gone are the days of effortless spending and decent prices. Take a peek at any price tag at one of the main fashion players in the city, and, after you pick your jaw up off the ground, you’ll agree it’s gone too far.

So the age-old question arises, where can a girl go shopping without sacrificing the label off her back, but still have pesos to eat?

I have quickly found the answer to be outlets. This is not a new concept to any of us, whether you are a fashionista or soccer mom. But if you’re thinking mass amounts of Gap sweatshirts and noname basics in the middle of nowhere, think again.

Outlets in Buenos Aires are a different story: they are simply last-seasons’ styles, maybe a “second section” item or two and even current merchandise in some cases, all at a fraction of the price – anywhere from 30-60% less than in the malls and Palermo. Plus, they are right around the corner.

But maneuvering outlets in the less touristy barrios of Buenos Aires can be an intimidating venture, so I have compiled a bit of research to get the ball rolling.

The first area and granddaddy of them all is Av. Córdoba, comprised of a strip roughly between the 4000 and 5200 blocks. Here you can find a little bit of everything: Nike, Ayres, BenSimon, Vans, Awada, Tascani and blocks and blocks to literally shop till you drop. Wear comfortable shoes, seriously.

Nike Shoes (Photo: Kyle Lease)

My personal favorite is the Aguirre district of Villa Crespo, which is open 7 days a week. Stick around the 600-900 block of Aguirre and head down Gurruchaga to find even more hidden gems. There are solid international brands like Columbia, Lacoste and RayBan, top Argentine ones such as Rapsodia, Paula Cahen d’Anvers, Akiabara, Prüne and Cardón, many a shoe store, plus a taste from global designers such as Yves Saint-Laurent y Christian Lacroix.

Keep in mind; some outlets advertise themselves as “vintage” to fit into their pretty Palermo surroundings. My advice is check them out, but realize you are still in a major shopping area that is surely going to affect the price. Palermo Vintage is around the Honduras 4700 block, and includes Prüne, Paruolo and Rapsodia.

If you’re willing to travel a bit outside of the capital, there is a group of outlets that I hear is worth the trip. Estacion Central (Av. del Libertador 3080) in Olivos is a hub for brands like Levi’s, Maria Cher, Vitamina, and QuikSilver, all yours for the taking.

Buyer Beware: Outlets can be overwhelming followed by addicting. To save you from making some of the mistakes I’ve made along the way, I’ve gathered a few of the best tips to ease you into the process. Without further ado…

Your Very Own How-to guide to Outlet Shopping in Buenos Aires.

1. Research: A little goes a long way. Fortunately, the World Wide Web has much to offer on the subject. There are several lists online, and keep in mind some outlets advertise themselves as “vintage” (e.g the notorious Rhapsodia in Las Canitas). Always ask around and if you find a seasoned shopper ask questions, we loooove sharing deals.
2. Take one bite at a time. Outlet shopping is a vast business, so stick with one area at a time. Indeed, there are many outlets scattered throughout the city, and even MORE in the outlying areas. Start small, and work your way around the city.
3. Plan ahead! Pick a day and set aside ample time. My best advice is to shop weekdays and off-peak hours, specifically mornings when merchandise is tidy and Ariana the sales associate is fresh. Set aside a chunk of time to allow yourself time to dig through the racks. Prepare mentally or prepare to be overwhelmed!
4. Shop off-season. This rule is your ticket to finding some real steals. You may be in your winter coat, but picture yourself poolside and look around for tanks and frocks, or vice versa. The outlet system in Buenos Aires favors those who can think ahead and transform last season into next.
5. BUDGET! Low price seduction is a common affliction among outlet shoppers. No matter how expensive that plaid, bow-bedecked mini skirt was, you’re probably, definitely never going to wear it. So carry only a specific amount of pesos in cash. Remember, cheaper does not mean “buy more”.
6. Become the best in the fashion game – shop often and shop smart. This doesn’t mean drop everything and train for hours. It means find out when new shipments come in and plan accordingly. Constantly check your budget and try to always stay on track. Once you get the hang of things, you’ll realize outlets are what you’ve been missing in your BA shopping routine.

Greenpeace's anti fashion show - the Matanza-Riachuelo line. (Courtesy of Greenpeace by Diego Martinez)

After five days in La Rural, over 25 runway shows from Argentina’s top fashion designers and one “anti-runway” demonstration by Greenpeace, Buenos Aires Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011-12 edition was brought to a close. Right about now, the Argentine fashion industry is beginning to gear up for the next go-round, BAFWeek Fall/Winter 2012, to be held in February of next year. But before we jump ahead, let’s look back at the most influential of this past week’s shows and take a glimpse into the growing market of Argentine “diseño de autor”.

Evangelina Bomparola: The perfection of neutrals and neons

Only 2 days in to BAFweek, one designer raised the fashion bar for everyone who dare follow. Evangelina Bomparola proved her impeccable tailoring skills in an ultra-chic collection that mixed creamy camels and crisp whites with vivid fuchsia, orange and yellow neons. Bomparola took 60’s and 70’s suits and shifts and evolved them into a modern woman’s dream with new cuts, effortless lines, elegant color-blocking and super feminine materials, such as chiffon, organza, silk and crepe. Sleek ponytails and nude heels topped off each look to create beautiful collection sure to please your inner minimalist.

Tramando line by Martin Churba (Courtesy of FB Campaign)

Tramando: Martín Churba and “Fashion Now”

“Fashion now” is Martín Churba’s attempt to “democratize” couture and bring high fashion to the rest of us. Originally a textile designer by trade, Churba created a wide range of experimental and printed materials that spoke to the masses for his S/S 2011-12 collection. The transparent, the opaque, the iridescent, hues of corals and blues on chiffon, animal prints on silk, photography and dreamy art made up a collection of fine fabrics and dresses to send your adrenaline rushing. Pleats, a recent comeback trend in the global fashion scene, graced this runway in a different way – forget the structured lines of your abuela, these patterned pleats were light and loose, found swirling around colored sequins or accenting the vanguard label’s signature deep blacks and geometric designs. With clean-cut leather jackets, multicolored flat-forms by Topper and a runway transformed into a surreal forest the show became complete. Yet again, Churba prove he has his finger on the pulse of the fashion world.

Juana de Arco: Guru of color meets “The Art of Living”

Spring and summer are a time to play with color, and Juana de Arco doesn’t discriminate. For her 2011-12 collection entitled “Jai Gurudev”, designer Mariana Cortés brought an explosion of red, coral, turquoise, orange, fuchsia and yellow, plus fresh prints and forms inspired by India and “The Art of Living”, a philosophy based in yoga, meditation and all things beautiful. This moving concept surfaces not only in Cortés’ masterful use of color, but also playful tunics with elephants and lotus leaf imagery, voluminous floor-length dresses and whimsical constructions in satin, colorful crochet, lace and artisanal embroidery. Consider this collection a joyful and colorful celebration of life.

Julieta Bulay and Rocío Bernardo's earthy Circo Criollo design (Photo courtesy of KeoMag)

UBA Semillero: One newcomer designer team tops the list

Winners of the 2011 Semillero UBA, a talent incubator for young designers, Julieta Bulay and Rocío Bernardo won over audiences with oversized knits and organic couture. Calling their label Circo Criollo, these two ladies constructed pants and shirts in large volumes and mixed proportions, alluding to traditional “gaucha” heritage. Bulay and Bernardo played with tailoring, knitting, wools, denims and leathers, while maintaining a muted color palette – earth tones, green, blue and mauve – saturated in gray. Leave it to the rookies to truly push the design envelope and unabashedly take BAFweek by storm.

Varanasi: A homage to Africa

For the Varanasi 2011 spring and summer collection, design duo Victor Delgrosso y Mario Buraglio brought Africa to Argentina in a presentation entitled Homenaje (homage). Indeed, we saw intricate fabric details, raw body art and nest-like crowns evocative of African tribal rituals and customs. However, we also saw the heart of the Varanasi brand, rooted in bold color, architectural design and seductive silhouettes. Laser-cut pieces invoked images of broken earth and lace, while geometric design emerged as the protagonist. At the end of the day, the eccentric accessories and distinctive styling paid the African homage, while the clothes themselves stayed true to Varanasi’s own Argentine history.

Argentine designers enjoy their annual fashion week, coined BAF, every February. Inevitably a season behind, it fails to receive much international attention. But the reputation of South American fashion is on the rise, with people such as the Brazilian Francisco Costa, who currently heads Calvin Klein’s womenswear collection, leading the way.

Argentine presence specifically has become more common in some of the most prestigious fashion weeks round the world. The fashion industry is also increasingly turning its attention to the new emerging economies, Prada’s decision to debut its Spring/Summer collection in Beijing in January of this year, just one indication of this shift.

When discussing designers here it is important to think of them in a different context to the fashion houses of Paris, London and Milan. These are designers who may well be on first name terms with their shop assistants, who design couture dresses for a realistic price and whose creations are of course beautiful and exciting, as well as intelligent at being fundamentally Argentine and therefore different. What’s more, if you are earning in pounds, dollars or euros, these pieces are affordable, whilst retaining that same air of desirability and remaining quite simply special.

Argentina’s Top 5 designers are most definitely a force to be reckoned with. Whether you have the opportunity to saunter downtown to one of their stores or you want to order a piece from a far-away part of the world, you will find that typical Argentine accommodating character trait present in your dealings with the designers as well as the quality that you expect from their European counterparts.

Pablo Ramirez Jan 2011 collection (courtesy of Pablo Ramirez)

1.Pablo Ramírez

Someone once said that the number of buttons you wear on your sleeve determines how important you are. Some shirts by this man have six – a grand number indeed. ‘The grandfather of Argentine fashion’, ‘the Argentine Valentino’, Pablo Ramírez can certainly get away with six buttons. He is the foundation of fashion design in Argentina. His pieces are simple and beautiful – reminiscent of the timeless beauty of vintage Balenciaga. Rarely deviating from his black and white pallet, the beauty of his pieces is in the cut, the drape and the sheer quality of the design. Also a costume designer for plays, ballets, operas and concerts, his extravagance for design is evident in the flared sleeve of a chequered suit jacket or in the pointed collar of a crisp white shirt. Buying an item from one of Ramírez’s collections is buying an item you will treasure through the changing seasons and trends. Always classic and always stylish this is the designer to go to for that piece you have always wanted.

Arguably Ramírez also has the strongest reputation in foreign lands. If you’re looking to impress with your labels he will sit confidently among better known European brands in your wardrobe. A regular at both Madrid and Berlin he is on the cusp of the established circuit.

Situated in San Telmo, apart from his peers in chic Recoleta, his store holds it own in this barrio. Here it is also possible to have a dress designed to your requirements, a service which some celebrities have taken advantage of to attend events such as Cannes and MTV. So whether you’re looking for the couture experience, but seem to have misplaced Valentino’s number, or you want to invest in some classic, romantic pieces, Pablo Ramírez is a designer whose clothes you will stay in love with for a lifetime.

Shop – Perú 587, Tel: +5411 4342 7154, Email: tienda@pabloramirez.com.ar www.pabloramirez.com.ar

Jessica Trossman collection (courtesy of Trossman)

2. Jessica Trosman

I can imagine that when Trosman was younger she was the kind of child who would draw on walls and cut things up. Her clothes are a delightful mixture of fabrics and cuts. Whether a classic, cosy woollen jumper mixed with pearls and silk, a slinky jersey maxi skirt with wool and leather or a hard leather jacket softened with wisps of silk, her pieces are interesting and they work. There are the slightly predictable t-shirts with silk panelling, and then there is the rest of the collection which is fascinating and unique. Indeed the desired affect is not that the pieces look sewn together, but that they are an ensemble, always destined to exist together. There is never a theme to her collections, just the natural result of her vision and passion – evident in the individual nature of each piece. Her collections are displayed in colours, with rows of black punctuated stylishly with a vibrant orange top or a golden cream skirt.

It is always dangerous to make comparisons, but Alexander Wang springs to mind when looking at the hang of the clothes and feeling the soft jersey and shiny leather. However, Trosman is much more about the energy of Buenos Aires rather than the grunge of New York.

In the glitzy Patio Bullrich shopping centre in Recoleta, Trosman’s store takes pride of place at the front entrance. With competition inside from fellow fashion labels such as Max Mara and Christian Lacroix she most certainly holds her own. This is also reflected in her rising reputation abroad. From her first collection in 2002 she has enjoyed, along with the Argentine economy in general, consistent growth. There has been worldwide reception of her designs, not a surprise as they manage to be the magic three of beautiful, cool and feminine all at the same time.

Shop – Patio Bulrich, Av Libertador 750, and Trosman Jeans store Armenia 1998. Tel +5411 4856 5288, Email trosman@trosman.com, www.trosman.com

Martin Churba on the Runway (courtesy of Tramando)

3. Martín Churba

If Argentina wants to strengthen its ties with Japan then it should most definitely use Martín Churba as an ambassador. With a store in Tokyo, the Japanese are amongst his biggest fans. A quick peruse through his store makes it obvious why. Cool, modern and futuristic designs and strong materials catch the eye and keep you wanting to see more. The cut on his trousers are especially edgy and contemporary. His collections are always photographed against a plane white wall – it helps one envisage how these clothes will stand out in real life.

Churba’s background is in textile design and he started in this field over 15 years ago. This helps to explain the delightfully colourful nature of many of his designs. It is the pattern and feel of the clothes more than anything else which really makes them stand out. His brand ‘Tramando’ was started in 2002, and as an exciting new development in Argentine design, it really did change how the Argentines approached fashion.

His dresses especially really stand out. Is it acceptable to admit that you are slightly intimidated by an item of clothing? The criss-crossing, draping bands of material in various shades of metallic instantly catch your attention, but it is doubtful how flattering they would be. Churba doesn’t appear to design his clothes with female insecurities in mind however. His pieces are fun and cool, for people whose first priority is not how they look in the clothes, but how the clothes look themselves. His skill is the ability to make all his items of clothing so aesthetically interesting and desirable that you just want them no matter how they look on you. Ultimately it is because we all want to be the kind of person who can wear Churba’s collections. Attractive and feminine of course, but above all, cool.

Shop, Rodríguez Peña 1973, Tel +5411 4811 0465, Email: casamatriz@tramando.com, www.tramando.com

Min Agostini designs on the Buenos Aires runway (courtesy of Agostini)

4. Min Agostini

Another giant of the Argentine scene, Agostini is a highly respected regular at BAF week. In recent years her accolades from abroad have been plentiful – a runway at Mercedes Benz New York Fashion Week, selected by Harrods to display her work in their main window to represent Argentine fashion design, named by the Independent Newspaper in the UK in 2009 as the most prominent Argentine designer – are just a few examples of her flourishing reputation.

With designs made uniquely out of one piece of material, twisted and folded in such a way as to a create stand-out item of clothing, once you start inspecting her work you realise just how special they are. This season’s collection sees rich colours of blue and red amongst deep shades of black; they are reminiscent of the physical landscape of a dark Nordic winter. The volume and cut of some of the pieces further echo the volume trend we see promoted in Spring/Summer 2011 collections in the northern hemisphere led by designers such as Jill Sanders. What’s more, her background in architecture helps explain the exciting structures of some pieces in her collections.

Agostini’s strength lies in the power of an individual piece to make an outfit powerful and unique. The quality of the cut of the pieces and Agostini’s respect for the female form means that it’s not only the dresses which drape beautifully, but also the waterfall waistcoasts, the shawls and the jackets.

At her store too it is possible to buy one off pieces.

A simply stunning silver pleated dress stood out in the rails. Recommended as a good dress for a wedding, perhaps the mother of the bride, if the bride did not want to wear white it would actually be beautiful enough for her position centre stage. And that is the point of Agostini’s clothes – to take centre stage – and this attention they most certainly deserve.

Shop – Libertad 1532, Julían Álavarez 1419, Tel: +5411 4813 0805, Email info@minagostini.com.ar, www.minagostini.com.ar

Benito Fernandez designs (courtesy of Fernandez)

5. Benito Fernández

Benito Fernández’ clothes photograph incredibly well. A look into any of his campaigns or catwalks shows show colourful and creative his pieces are. His experience in selling clothes, which began in 1994 with haute couture creations in bridal and night gowns, is also evident in his more relaxed ‘Jeans’ brand. Both his couture and Jeans pieces exude colour, sparkle and yet remain stylish.

Originally a law student, Fernández decided to transfer to Flego, an Argentine academy of fashion, and then moved onto the Paris American Academy. Joining Min Agostini at fashion week in New York in 2009, as well as showing in Chicago, his international training has developed into international success.

Entering his boutique one is first confronted with what can only be described as a garish collection of colours, feathers and sequins. On closer inspection however the individual quality of the colour combinations and cuts of the clothes comes across. The couture dresses are unique and although you won’t like them all, you will fall in love with some – surely the sign of real couture fashion. Two stand out pieces were a dress of deep green feathers with a beaded bandeau top, and a sheer neon splattered dress which could be worn to a day time garden party or dressed up for a night time excursion. Fernandez is popular with many of the heavyweight celebrities in Argentina, unsurprising due to the quality and hang of many of his dresses, if not also the attention his dresses demand and the fun they exude.

His Jeans collections are also a good place to go. Pretty tweed jackets in fun green and blue, with a pleated dress cut at the hem would go well with the printed leggings. He is also able to make paint splatter ‘jeggins’ cool and desirable – surely the sign of a top designer.

Boutique – Benito Fernandez, Arroyo 900. Call +5411 4328 2990, Email info@benitofernandez.com.ar, www.benitofernandez.com.ar

Strolling around Palermo you will be surprised by the variety of shops and boutiques it has to offer. It seems like a place far from South America; as it could even be London, Paris or Milan. However, a way Buenos Aires distinguish itself from the latter and you may call it its trademark, is eye for detail! Although some of the well-known chains have settled in Palermo during recent years, the main part remains authentic with boutiques formed by independent, often Argentine, designers. Not only are their collections characterised by creativity and originality; the stores themselves are often stunning and crazily decorated. In this perspective Palermo’s boutiques are definitely unique, with stylish details everywhere! Also the phenomenon ‘smell marketing’ has made its entrance in Buenos Aires, since every store can be distinguished purely by the perfume that is spread out intensively. From art-gallery look-a-likes, to little castles or romantic houses; we had a look around to spot the most eccentric and special ones.

Casa Chic (Photo: Melissa Riggall)

1) Casa Chic

As the name gives away, from the outside, with its black coloured walls, this boutique seems chic and classy. But look through the display window and the shop looks exactly like a scene from an elfin forest;  a beautiful romantic four-poster bed, covered with roses, and surrounded by ivy and tree-stumps. Entering this fairytale through an immense old wooden stained glass door will be a pleasure on the eye; decorations and romantic details everywhere! Apart from these accessories for the home, the boutique sells shoes, belts, jewellery and clothes for women and children. The wide space with a beautiful old wooden floor is divided into three parts, one of them is devoted to the romantic changing rooms. In one of the spaces you will find an huge artificial tree in the middle, which is surrounded by various stunning draped linen cloths, curtains and pillows, all for sale. The outer part looks out on a lovely little patio. Everywhere on walls or at the ceiling you will encounter gadgets to make the place everything but boring; hanging butterflies, tea-sets, bird cages, stools, flowers, old suitcases, among others. A romantic, classic dreamland is how Casa Chic will be stored in your memory.

Open: Mon-Sat, 10am-8.30pm,  Sun 12-8.30pm. Click here for more information.

Maria Aversa (Photo: Melissa Riggall)

2. Maria Aversa

Entering this charming place you feel as though you are in an huge Greek summer beach house. The turquoise colours of the walls and the immense space with an overflow of light allows you to escape the busy city for a while; the peacefulness creating the ambiance for you to shop at your leisure and look through the collection. The first four floors – connected by little white steps and stairs – of this beautiful antique house, are part of the store in which they sell women and children’s clothes and shoes. Do not be afraid that there is not enough space to try those garment and shoes out; since a whole floor is specially devoted for this;  a few immense changing rooms and one of the cute art-deco style sitting areas, designed for the people who are going to judge your new outfit or just want to rest their legs for a bit. Several huge red hanging lamps are covering the high ceilings of the house, where the walls are decorated with old photos in wooden frames. On the beautiful mosaic tiled floor, several romantic side tables and benches are placed, while plants providing the finish in touch for a peaceful and perfect created spot to take a break if you don’t want to shop till your drop.

Open Mon-Sat: 11am-8pm. Click here for more information.

La Merceria (Photo: Melissa Riggall)

3) La Merceria

A look at the display window will pique your curiosity. ‘Paris’ might cross your mind when you are looking through, since several Moulin Rouge look-a-like mannequins are positioned; highly decorated and wearing wigs made of feathers. This French-styled boutique, as the name gives away, is a place where you can find almost everything. From dozens of special designed hats, to umbrellas, fabrics, pillows, hair-accessories, perfumes, soaps, bags, belts, jewellery and scarves, to name a few. Since there is so much to choose from, within a month the entire first floor will be devoted to these accessories alone. The store itself is fully lit by big chandeliers in different bright colours, huge mirrors everywhere, little angels on the walls and a lovely mosaic tiled floor, making the place a mix of everything. Piles of floaty Indian scarves, ostrich-feather fans, and fur-lined leather gloves beg to be touched. Even more hands-on are the reels of lace trims and sequined edging that line the walls. Changing rooms are classic and romantic. Next to the accessories bomb, the boutique provides women’s clothes, with one of the spaces specially designed for evening-dresses. So if you are having a cocktail party or have gala in your agenda, this is the place to be – either to buy a dress or to cover your old one with all kind of accessories in this modern version of a lovely old store.

Open Mon-Thu: 10am-8.30pm, Fri-Sa: 10am-9pm and Sun: 11.30am-8.30pm. Click here for more information.

Bokura (Photo: Melissa Riggall)

4. Bokura

It’s not just the ladies who have cool-designed stores in Palermo – Bokura is possibly the coolest men’s boutique in town. The main interior is black with red orientated details. There are several classy old style wooden cabinets in  perfectly straight rows and at the top of all of them, old-fashioned golden desk lamps and antique Chinese Ming vases. A seating area with old leather couches and next to them a stunning antique wooden bar, which comes straight out of the 60s; hundreds of types of liquors to look at – but not for use; decoration in its purest form. The black floor is covered with at least 30 beautiful Persian rugs and the cash desk is a sort of train station desk, surrounded by golden iron bars. When you look to the ceiling the Buddhas indicate China as your next destination. Two immense Chinese dragons and numerous Chinese umbrellas are bungling above you, accompanied by red stars, Chinese dancing dolls and red coloured fabrics, mixed with huge classy golden fans. The walls are fully covered with old photos and antique Chinese little statues are spread out through the entire store. The changing rooms are like little chambers, with mirrors of all sizes and a glass cabinet with little Chinese dolls and other decorations in all of them. With all these Chinese treasures you feel like an emperor in Bokura.

Open daily, 11am-8pm. Click here for more information.

Juana de Arco (Photo: Melissa Riggall)

5) Juana de Arco

Passing this shop the brightly coloured display window will immediately catch your eye. Inside the shop this same fresh bomb of colours continues to fulfil your soul with pure happiness. You could be in a sugar castle. An immense piece fabric that is a piece of art almost covers the entire wall, and is hanging centrally positioned above the counter. The fabric is made from all leftovers of clothes you can find in the shop itself. On the ceiling you can see similar style birds and other weird figures hanging, all made from these left-over materials. In the middle of the space, a glittery pillar, completely covered with buttons in all the colours of the rainbow will grab your attention. Having a look around at the walls and tables, you will find an eclectic range of random and funny gadgets; a bow and arrow, a statue made of egg-boxes, some wooden ladders and a wheelbarrow covered with painted flowers… The shop provides clothes for women and children and also has a line with accessories for the home in the basement, along with three wonderfully decorated changing rooms. This eccentric boutique is like visiting the world of Alice in Wonderland; where everything is possible and nothing seems crazy enough.

Open Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8pm,  Sun, 2-7pm. Click here for more information.

Green, ecological, environment, recycling. All words you hear more and more nowadays, and this ‘green flow’ is taking a foothold in Argentina. However, the words are there, but what about the actions? Yes, Palermo is full of ‘Eco-restaurants’, yes we have the ‘cartoneros’ who do a really good job and there are now bicycle lanes dotted around the city. But is that it?

No, although it is still in its infancy, there is more, for sure! Where? In the Argentine fashion and product design industry, that’s where. A brief dive into this world will lead you quickly to DQB Studio. So we went along to meet with Dominique Besanson, the studio’s art director.

Dominique Besanson from DQB Studio (Photo: Andy Donohoe)

Since her childhood Besanson has been interested in design, leaving Buenos Aires for Milan after high school to study fashion design. Although she maintains it was a very rich and valuable experience, it turned out that fashion design was not to be ‘it’ for her. “I liked it a lot but I didn’t really think like a fashion designer,” she explains. So, a new course of studies and a new city it was to be, and Besanson started studying art and photography, swapping the city of fashion for the city of infinite possibilities: New York.

Her studies and experiences in New York  lead to the idea of mixing design with photography, and upon returning to Buenos Aires, Besanson found the last piece of the puzzle: sustainability. Thus in 2002 those three ingredients lead to the recipe with the name: DQB-Studio.

DQB links art and photography, specializing in crafting sustainable handmade goods. The studio consists of five people from all different professional backgrounds but with one goal in common: working in a sustainable way.

Besanson sees starting her studio in Buenos Aires, a city where the concept of sustainability is still in its infancy, as an extra challenge. “It gives me an extra drive to spread the word and emphasize the message of sustainability. I want to make it clear that products which are made from recycled fabrics are not ‘dirty’ or ‘dusty’. Although my products of course have to look nice, the message that comes with the product, remains the most important thing.”

But Besanson admits that whilst Buenos Aires is a city that follows trends and changing fashion, people still tend to stick to their old habits. “In Europe for example, recycling is already a more basic thing, people are already used to it, here in Argentina it is still quite new and uncommon.”

Having completed several aesthetics projects, in 2006 Besanson started her own line with the philosophy of making her products easy and practical. None of them contain parts that are useless. Even washing instructions and other such labels are considered to be superfluous and are not on any DQB product. A balance has been struck – no fussy bits, but not boring either. “Cosy” is the way the designer describes them, “but not too cosy!”

One of DQB studio's necklaces (Photo: DQB)

But what about these ‘cosy’ products? Well, they are all made of recycled fabrics that have been discarded by designers or by fashion labels. These materials are later modified to make them more suitable for the chosen design.

Walking around in the studio you will find a lot of bags, jewellery, purses and scarves, which are certainly not ‘just’ accessories. A lot of creativity and originality is involved. From little wallets made of off cuts of denim to a bedspread made of plastic bags. From a skirt made of the leftover sleeves of a shirt to a bag that is made of street banners.

Besanson works under a golden rule; everything that she designs is sewn, knitted or embroidered  in approximately one hour,  a production schedule she follows methodically: “One day I draw an outline, the next I sew and the following day I ship.

“The way I work is that I see a certain material or fabric, then think, what can I do with that and then a product is born. Not the other way around; I never have an idea in mind and tyr to work out how to make it with the materials to hand…”

Currently the DQB line consists of approximately 30 products. All of them have been made under the device of simple, functional and interesting. The finished goods are sold in a variety of stores throughout Europe, the US and Latin America, with Besanson’s wholesale strategy based on e-commerce, a tool that enables her to work on a global basis.

Since all of the DQB products are handmade the designer is a big fan of the concept of  ‘Do It Yourself’ (DIY), making things with your own hands. And to pass her knowledge and love for DIY on, Besanson gives workshops and she has her ‘DIY Chapters’ in several Argentine magazines.

So trend watchers among us, pay attention: whilst DQB’s products are still rare in Argentina’s fashion world, the concept of sustainability is heating up here, so you might want to bag yourself one of their products quick smart.

Photo by Rosalie Smith

Diane Desjeux came to Buenos Aires in 2006 with no real intention of staying. Having upped and left her entire world in Paris she bought the first ticket to somewhere that seemed exotic. “I knew nothing about Argentina. I did not even know how much a peso was worth. But I liked the sound of Buenos Aires, how it rolled off the tongue”. Four years on and Diane has successfully launched a line of bags and other accessories that she designs herself. Her creations are vibrant and striking, inspired by patterns and textures from different cultures around the world. Yet what is most compelling about Diane, apart from her delightful personality, is how she has managed to capture the “free-spirited” essence of Buenos Aires and integrate it into her daily life. She takes advantage of any and every opportunity that comes her way because being a French ex-pat she knows how hard these can be to come by in other cities of the world.

What was your life like in Paris and what urged you to move away from it?

“Well, I was the perfect image of the young Parisian woman. I lived in Montmartre, rode a scooter, dated an older man in the music industry and had a reputable job working in marketing for Universal Music. But it didn’t make me happy and one day I just had to leave it all behind and follow my intuition. I had always wanted to learn Spanish so I told myself I would come to Buenos Aires and stay here for as long as it took to become really good at the language. After three months I had not progressed as much as I had hoped and before I knew it, months had turned into years. Now this is home.”

Was your goal always to become a designer?

Photo by Rosalie Smith

“No, not at all. That is the charm of new places and new experiences, I think. When I finished school in Paris I was set on doing architecture and interior design at university. I did the one year prep course at Camondo School of Plastic Arts but then for some reason I could not bring myself to commit to the five years of university that followed, even though it truly was what I wanted to do at the time. Instead I did a two-year degree in business and communications at EFFICOM and then moved to Australia and worked for Bondi FM Radio. These experiences served me well but never felt right for me. Now that I am being creative again, I feel I have been taken back to my roots. My natural artistic skills come from my upbringing in Paris but they needed a nourishing and creatively stimulating environment, like that of Buenos Aires, to flourish.”

How would you describe the differences in lifestyle between Paris and Buenos Aires?

“In the Western world, especially in Paris I feel, we are all conditioned to think that the way of life there is what is ‘right’ or ‘good’ but at some point you have to question that and make the adult choice to find something that you believe suits you better. My first impression of Buenos Aires was not ideal. I left one big city only to stumble upon another. But after a while I began to notice a kind of human warmth and spontaneity among the Porteños that really helped me to develop my creativity. In Paris everything is organised, the economy is good but the laws are rigid and you have little freedom. Here there is no security and you could lose everything in an instant. But somehow I feel challenged and inspired by the chaos!”

How did you go about getting involved in the arts scene then?

Photo by Rosalie Smith

“This is the brilliance of Buenos Aires, you see. There is a wealth of opportunities available in the city and anyone can get involved. For example, I am not a singer, I have never sung professionally, but recently I met the well known French producer Richard Minier and he offered for me to sing on a new record he was making. Even though I do not have the best voice and he had to be very patient with me, we ended up producing a great record called D&D present the Folk&Be Sessions. I know that this kind of opportunity would not have been offered to someone with so little experience back in Paris. I also worked in cinema and architecture here in Buenos Aires before I found my niche in the design world.”

Tell me more about Voulez Vous. How would you describe your work?

“Well, so far, the label includes bags, bikinis, cushions and Bling jewellery. When I travel I look out for unusual patterns and prints that grab my attention and I bring them back to Argentina. Otherwise I order them or get friends to bring materials from their countries when they visit. In this way, my designs are lead by my emotions and I find that this attracts the emotions of others. I am not guided by fashion trends or common taste, nor am I motivated by money. I do what I do because it makes me happy and the challenge is trying to find a way to make a living out of that without compromising. Luckily, porteños really like the idea of independent design and as a market they are very supportive of new, creative ideas. Although there are many other budding designers out there the market is still emerging and there is room for us all”.

What have your experiences of being an ex-pat taught you?

Photo by Rosalie Smith

“In life we have to accept that we will find ways of expressing ourselves that are not exactly what we expected. If you are not satisfied in any way you have to be ready to destroy structures and rebuild on a basis of what really feels good. If the recent disasters around the world have taught us anything, it is that Nature is more powerful than social systems and we should guide ourselves according to this. As cliché as it sounds, I feel that my settling in Buenos Aires was meant to be because I fell in love with an Argentine and now we hope to build a family together. This is proof that if you follow your heart you will eventually feed your soul”.

The Voulez Vous line is currently available in various Palermo boutiques and the E-store will be online beginning of May at www.voulezvousplanet.com.

To listen to D&D present the Folk&Be Sessions, check them out on bebo: http://apps.bebo.com/my-band/artist/DandDmusic or facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/-DD-/85894124065

“Alpargatas sí, libros no!” said Juan Domingo Perón in an appeal against universities’ elitism and expressing his favour for salt-of-the-earth blue collar work. This is what alpargatas, the ubiquitous Argentine take on the espadrille, have symbolised for almost two centuries.

Originally brought to Argentina by Basque immigrants from the Pyrenees mountains, the shoes quickly spread throughout the farming and rural communities. At the beginning of the 20th century a British company named Alpargatas adapted the espadrilles to Latin America by replacing the Jute rope soles with one made of rubber and modifying the toes. The shoes became a symbol of Argentina’s agricultural wealth, and eventually came to be worn with pride by chic city dwellers along with farmers.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

Pando at the office.

The shoes have remained the same ever since the alpargatas company adapted the espadrille for the Latin American market. However, a fresh and energetic company has sprung up that is looking to launch alpargatas into a bit of a renaissance.

Three years ago, Tomás Pando and his business partner Francisco Murray started Paez Shoes. Pando found himself feeling restless at his job at a large company in Buenos Aires and left Argentina to travel through Europe and the US. He realised that these rich cultures were missing something very critical: the comfort and practicality offered by alpargatas. When he told his friend, Murray, his idea, it was originally ill received. But the two discussed the matter more and decided that not only was there a yawning market for alpargatas abroad, but that the original could do with a bit of sprucing up as well.

The aim of Paez Shoes is to produce alpargatas with fresh designs, quality materials, domestic production and a firm belief in honouring the shoe’s Argentine roots. They aim to spread their innovative take on the classic shoes across the globe.

The colours tend to be bright and lively without demanding attention, and the playful pattens are able to draw a surprising variety from such a no-frills canvas. Alpargatas are stitched with barely a handful of seams and the novel ornamentation from the design team at Paez is an example of ample creativity working within strict boundaries.

The young and irreverent spirit of the Paez is demonstrated best by their logo – the silhouette of two rabbits mating…maybe. It may be just one rabbit standing at attention, apparently behind the other but actually off in the distance, a dirty trick of perception.

“I tell my kids they’re just friends; that they’re just a couple of friendly rabbits sitting there together,” says US importer and licensee of Paez, Chris Johns. However, Pando sets the record straight by explaining that “we really wanted to stress the born and raised in Argentina aspect of the brand, it symbolises procreation. For the local market it’s sort of poking fun at the rural roots of alpargatas. For the abroad market, it’s saying that the brand was born and raised here, and it’s going to be spreading [with the vigor of rabbit reproduction] all over the world”.

The decision to keep production in Argentina is a defining element of the Paez brand, and one that was not easy for the founders. Alpargatas are usually produced in mass quantities. Pando mentioned that the leading brand produces a whopping 10,000 pairs of shoes every day. The key to most producer’s competitiveness is trimming expenses as much as possible, and the modifications and attention to detail which Paez Shoes require made it impossible for them to be made under such conditions. On the other-hand, the small manufacturing companies who Paez began by working with were unable to meet their requirements of producing with good materials and getting the international orders out on time. So, about a year and a half ago Paez opened their own small factory on the outskirts of Buenos Aires.

They began production just in time for the global financial collapse. Pando explains: “We had just opened and were employing a bunch of new people, and learning on the job and then from one day to the next our prospects were changing back and forth. So basically for the last year and a half the mission has been, ‘okay, let’s just survive this’.” And survive they have. If anything, their conviction to keep the production local, and be exposed to the turbulent Argentine economy, has been strengthened for having come through this difficult time intact.

And there must have been temptation to go the less painful route and set up production in a cheaper market, as Paez’s top competitor TOMS Shoes has done. TOMS also sells  designer alpargatas abroad, mostly in the US, but they have a very different business model than Paez. TOMS was started by North American Blake Mycoskie after a trip to Argentina. For every pair of TOMS shoes bought, a pair is donated to a child in an impoverished community in Argentina. The company has become very successful and was quick to move production to China.

Photos by Pavel Ezrohi

The Paez factory.

While the founders and foreign distributors of Paez all acknowledge that TOMS is certainly pursuing a noble cause, they don’t entirely agree with the company’s practices and prefer their model. Pando says that he would much rather follow the example of American Apparel, who produce designer clothes with environmentally friendly materials and under strict no sweatshop conditions. He emphasised: “I’m proud to pay the best hourly rate to my employees and sacrifice making donations than to pay someone for less than a days work in China.” By keeping production jobs in Argentina, and promoting the shoes as a distinctly Argentine product abroad, the Peaz model does seem to go further in honouring the roots of the shoes.

Peaz’s foreign partners stress that this celebration of alpargatas heritage is of the utmost importance to them and also naturally helps with marketing. Chris Johns explains: “Our first commitment is to the people in Argentina who are making these shoes and making sure that they’re in the best work environment, that they’re learning a skill and how to be creative and that we’re able to carry on a tradition that people in Argentina have loved for decades and decades.” Paez also stresses environmental responsibility and the shoes come in bags made entirely from recycled materials and created with diverse uses in mind.

It appears that Paez’s mission of responsible production and spreading of this Argentine classic is being well received by interested partners in foreign markets. From it’s inception  there has been a prominent announcement on the company’s website that informs intrigued readers as to how they can get involved with bringing Paez to their countries.  Pando explains the business model as such: “We’re trying to build a big network of entrepreneurs, small, independent business people who are interested in working with something new. Our philosophy is to work with people that can replicate what we’re doing here in each country. It’s a long term project, in which both sides will learn from each other.”

The model seems to be working as sales have been steadily increasing both in Argentina and abroad every year since the company’s founding. In the US, for example, the number of Paez has been growing like little baby rabbits. In the last year Johns has gone from having shipments in the hundreds sent up to supply smaller retailers to the factory in Buenos Aires having just completed his first large order of 5,000 pairs which will be sold online and to large retail stores. Just last month he received a commitment to 12,000 pairs.

Similar expansion is also occurring with other foreign Paez representatives who span across 20 different countries and five continents. Procreation indeed.

To learn more about Paez check out their sites at www.laspaez.com.ar and www.paezshoes.com.