Buenos Aires is now offering special bus tours around the city dedicated to the new Pope Francis and the significant landmarks that make up his history in Buenos Aires.

Pope Francis at his first public appearance after the conclave (photo by Agência Brasil)

The free three-hour tours operate twice a day on Saturday and Sunday past 24 sites that are special in someway to pope Francis. Shorter walking tours also run on Tuesdays and Thursdays, while another tour bus currently runs weekends in the Flores barrio, where Pope Francis was born and raised.

This tour begins at the Cathedral where Pope Francis gave mass as Cardinal Jorge Bergoglio. It then stops at the Pope’s barbershop, his local plaza where he played football as a child, as well as and the San Jose de Flores church where he worshipped as a teenager.

According to the city government, it has already received more than 760 applications from companies wishing to register their tours.

The national tourism ministry is one of many that has a tour in the pipeline and is offering an official excursion in August in Buenos Aires, as well as the provinces of Córdoba and Santa Fe, where the Pope Francis studied and served.

National carrier Aerolíneas Argentinas will operate five new international routes to Atlanta, Las Vegas, and Detroit in the US, Tel Aviv in Israel, and Guangzhou in China.

Aerolíneas Argentinas plane in flight (photo courtesy of Aerolíneas Argentinas)

Resolution 16/2013, which authorises the state-owned company to fly the new routes, was signed by Transport Secretary Alejandro Ramos and published on the official gazette today. It comes after Aerolíneas requested these routes be added to the list approved in 1999, which specifies the routes granted to the company for 15 years.

According to the resolution, the granting of these routes to the national carrier is in accordance with bilateral agreements signed between Argentina and the US, Israel, and China. It will also allow Aerolíneas to fulfill its code-sharing agreements with other SkyTeam member airlines. Aerolíneas joined the SkyTeam alliance in August 2012.

The company is yet to announce when the new routes will be operational.

Yesterday the Argentine government announced 17 total public holidays for the upcoming year including seven long weekends. Every month Argentine citizens and residents will have from one to four holidays, including one week at the end of March and beginning of April, when they will have to work only two days.

The high number of holidays is explained by so called ‘tourism bridge holidays’, when an additional day is given to enable more people to travel. For instance, if the holiday is on Tuesday, Monday is announced as an extra non-working day. The same solution is applied for Thursdays, when Friday is granted as holiday.

Traditionally, the first half of the year has more holidays than the second one, as most religious dates and historical events coincide with the summer and autumn months: New Year, Carnaval, Memory Day, Easter, Day of Veterans of Malvinas, Worker’s Day, May Revolution and others. Additionally, those who practice religions other than catholicism, like judaism and islam, are also eligible to request holidays.

The tourism sector benefits most from the growing number of public holidays and plans to boost infrastructure development for 2013. At the same time, industry and small and medium business sectors might suffer. According to José Ignacio de Mendiguren, representative of Industry Union of Argentina, “there needs to be balance”. He warns that the automobile sector requires non-stop work, which means higher salary costs as hours worked on public holidays are paid double. Small and medium companies are also concerned about additional costs and possible low efficiency of their workers.

Argentina remains one of the countries with the biggest number of public holidays. However, annual vacations normally last 10 working days, and 15 w0rking days if the person has worked more than five years in a company.

So far 2012 has a record number of public holidays with 19.

Tango has taken the world for a twirl as dance festivals are erupting in major cities everywhere, from London and Berlin, to Kiev and Budapest. This year’s tango festival in Buenos Aires promises to draw crowds of international tango fans and dancers to the city, but many wonder whether the government is doing enough to invest in tango culture at the community level, and to preserve the spirit of ‘tango culture’ from the claws of the tourism industry.

We took to the street to ask what local people think of the complex relationship between tango tourism in the city.

Photos by Diego Cupolo

Melida Radian, 59, antiques vendor, La Plata

Tango is very important for culture and identity of Argentina. It’s important for tourism because people are interested in how to dance, how to do the things that we do. The government supports tango a lot. In the government house, they invite a lot of tango musicians when they hold events for others to show them a part of our culture. They already support and fund a lot of tango.

Eduardo Ruiz, 64 1/2, restorer, Caballito

In the past, tango has been very important for Argentines. It’s our dance, it’s what tourists come to see, to dance. Tango is important first, because it was born here and, second, during the 1930s the dance developed to symbolise melancholy. It developed the meaning of tango and made it more dramatic, it’s very passionate. It’s also a political statement. It used to be prohibited by the military, but it rose from the lunfardo [porteño slang], from the streets.

This is what we share with the world when they come here to see Argentine culture. We don’t need more festivals for tango, though. Tango is not supposed to be a big deal, it’s quiet, the way it used to be. For me, we put on some music in the morning and sip some mate and that is tango. It’s much quieter.

Rafael de Elejalde, 29, sales, Córdoba

The dance is important for Argentina, for sure. I’m from Córdoba so we don’t have a tango culture like Buenos Aires does. If tourists are looking for tango they come to the city, but it is still very important for the country. The dance is good the way it is, too. It’s nice when it is not as commercial, when you can find it in different neighbourhoods or in smaller areas. When people come to learn tango, it’s better when they learn the classic tango, when it’s not as organised. Argentina doesn’t need more tango show business. It’s part of our identity and we are very proud of it.

Mica Piñero, 22, art student, Abasto

Tango is classic Argentina. I don’t know much about tango, but I know that it is important to us and to the country. I am not sure if more festivals or more funding would be better for tourism because people already come here for the dance, to learn the dance, to understand this part of our culture. I don’t dance tango but I have many friends that go to Catedral every week to dance. It’s what we do, and tourists come here to know more about it.

‘Pipo’ Gonzalez Varela, 55, leather-maker, Floresta

Tango is the most important part of the people’s culture in this country. The music, the dance, everything. Argentina is a very interesting country because it’s like you need to know tango to be Argentine. Even the younger generations are learning it. Tango espectáculo is a new tango and it has a lot of big moves and is very showy. There is a guy who sells albums of tango mixed with electronic music just down the street and it is very good, very beautiful music.

People come from all over the world to experience this and so government awards and funding is very important to keep supporting it. Right now there are not big festivals for tango, but later in time, who knows? Maybe it could be a big festival, like carnaval.

The conclusion of the 38th Congress of Tourism and Travel agencies, AAAVYT found that tourism to Argentina is rapidly declining. The country is becoming increasingly expensive with inflation adding to the international financial crisis.

According to the latest statistics, presented at the congress, the number of foreign tourists arriving in the city of Buenos Aires (by air) in the first four months of the year was 936,000 – 3.1% less than the same period a year ago. In April, the fall was 5.6%. The number of Brazilians, which have become the main source of tourists (30%), dropped 8.8% in April over a year ago.

Mario Lielman, chair of the Buenos Aires Tourism and Travel Agencies Association stated, “Inflation, even high, has not been enough to counter the appreciation of the Argentine peso and tourist think twice before planning a trip. Likewise for Argentines, a strong currency and more accessible prices in the US and Europe have become a magnet.”

Domestic flight costs are on the rise after an increase this week of between 10% and 20%, with longer distance flights rising by 30%. This is the case for sought after destinations such as Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego or Salta and the Iguazú falls.

These deterrents, combined with the ongoing financial crisis tightening belts globally, has worked to deal a significant blow to the Argentine tourism market.

That said, these same forces seem to be working to increase Argentine travel abroad.  From April 2011 to April 2012, 31% more Argentines have travelled overseas.

An estimated 110,000 tourists visited Buenos Aires over the last long weekend to see the TC2000 last Sunday, according to the city’s Department of Tourism.

About 700,000 people were in the downtown streets to see the circuit, which shut down the centre for a couple of days. The track ran along Avenida 9 de Julio, Avenida Roque Sáenz Peña (Diagonal Norte) and Avenida de Mayo.

According to the survey, about 96,000 tourists stayed overnight in the city, spending a total of an estimated $28 million pesos.

“Thousands of tourists came to the City during the long weekend, leading to a very strong domestic market performance which is advantageous for the promotion of Buenos Aires this year. We strongly support the Super CT 2000 in the Province of Córdoba, and have a racing tradition in our country. The city also has other events on the calendar throughout 2012, including April’s Book Fair and La Noche en Vela, ” said Buenos Aires Minister of Culture and Tourism Hernán Lombardi.

Mariano Werner won first place, while Brazilian Cacá Bueno came in the second position.

The Argentine Ministry of Tourism is expecting more people to flock to carnival this weekend than ever before. They predict that two million people will travel to the festivities, spending an estimated $1,600m (US$ 366m).

Mar del Plata, Partido de La Costa and Patagonia are enjoying high levels of employment during carnival, providing the economy with a welcome boost.

Accommodation is at 80% capacity, and the peak periods are already fully booked.

It is reported that a record 2,400 buses will leave Retiro Bus station in Buenos Aires over the weekend to keep up with the exodus.

Town officials have praised Cristina Fernández de Kirchner’s move to extend the holiday by an extra day this year.

“The decision of the President (Cristina Fernández) to bring back the Carnival holidays will boost the economy and benefit all tourist towns in Argentina,” Juan Pablo de Jesús, the mayor of Partido de La Costa told news website Infobe.

A number of towns across Argentina – including Córdoba, Bariloche and Entre Rios – are also expecting a boost from tourism. This is despite a prediction of heavy rain and storms across the country, particularly in the capital and central provinces.

Buenos Aires and Mendoza have been signalled as dangerous areas, according to travel warnings issued by six countries.

Germany, France, Spain, the United Kingdom, the United States and Brazil, all speaking from government agencies, upped their warning levels for travellers after a series of violent crimes where foreigners were victims.

The US site says travellers should be cautious in areas like San Telmo and La Boca, adding that criminals work in groups, and people should assume they are armed.

“Street crime in the larger cities, especially greater Buenos Aires and Mendoza, is a problem for residents and visitors alike,” it states.

Meanwhile, the United Kingdom’s travel advice site warns its citizens that they should avoid protests and demonstrations.

“There have been an increasing number of protests against British interests in Argentina in the context of the higher profile being given to the Falkland Islands issue during 2012 – the 30th anniversary of the Falklands conflict,” it states.

Brazil’s Consulate General in Buenos Aires also recommends that people “avoid walking on the streets or in deserted places at night,” and suggests people phone taxis after 10pm rather than take one off the street.

On 8^th February, French tourist Laurent Schwebel was stabbed to death in broad daylight after a man tried to steal his camera near the Malvinas memorial in Retiro.

A Buenos Aires Pub Crawl staff member was also attacked 5^th February and almost died after having his neck cut open.

Last July, the bodies of two French tourists were found in San Lorenzó, in the province of Salta. Forensic experts determined that they had been sexually assaulted and shot.

Despite historic homicide rates, Honduras is experiencing an “excessive diffusion of negative news” and needs a committee to show the positive sides of crises, according to a former tourism minister from Costa Rica.

Carlos Roesch and José Miguel Gaitán – a former tourism minister from Guatemala – met Tuesday with Epaminondas Marinakys, the president of the National Chamber of Tourism of Honduras, according to a Honduras daily.

The Herald said business people and communications managers were also at the meeting, with the goal of providing suggestions to improving the country’s image worldwide.

“For every piece of negative news released, about 10 positive ones should be issued to create a culture of national identity and to position Honduras as one of the best tourist destinations in Central America,” Roesch said.

Murder rates

As officials discuss how to better promote Honduras,  the development organisation Estado de la Nación released stats 3rd February showing that murder rates have climbed to 86 homicides per 100,000 people.

The country has the highest rates of homicide in Central America. In 2000, the murder rate was about 50 people per 100,000.

In addition, according to the report, more than 145,000 people were killed in Central America during the first decade of this millenium, equivalent to an average annual rate of 34 homicides per 100,000 inhabitants.

“Central America continues to be the most violent place in the world without armed conflict,” the report said.

As the most accessible glacier inside Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park, the Perito Moreno glacier has become a big pull for the small town of El Calafate.

Many who visit do so expressly to see it, opting for a boat cruise which brings them face to face with the glacier where they can admire impressive ice formations and witness the occasional, magnificent shedding of huge chunks from the safety of the deck. The more adventurous choose to get up close and personal on the ice.

A stable ice mass, 5km wide and 60m tall, Perito Moreno is one of the few glaciers in the world to be still advancing in spite of global warming and one of few where ice trekking is a safe and viable option.

Perito Moreno at sunset. (Photo: Trey Ratcliff)

Between the months of September and April, Hielo y Aventura, the only company authorised to step foot on the ice, offers guided treks atop the glacier.

With no prior on ice trekking experience and no specialist equipment required besides a pair of crampons, ice trekking becomes a surprisingly accessible activity.

Demanding only a moderate level of fitness, the Mini Trekking and Big Ice excursions are open to everyone aged ten and upwards, with a maximum age of 65 years reduced to 50 for the longer trek.

The Mini Trekking option allows for a little over one and a half hours on the ice, and like the Big Ice and the Lago Rico sailing excursions, leaves El Calafate by bus and transports trekkers across Lago Argentina.

Once besides the ice, bilingual guides offer an introduction to the trek, explaining a little about the glacier and how the walk will be conducted, and then, two enthusiastic experts, followed by a group of up to 20 adventurous amateurs, take their first tentative steps on the ice.

Trekking on Perito Moreno can be a daunting task. (Photo: nanalahoz)

From the outside, the glacier’s dagger-like edges make walking inside it appear impossible, but what the glacier opens up is a beautiful landscape of streams, small lagoons, gullies and bright blue crevasses where every ridge reveals an unexpected detail and a different view.

Once on the ice, a marked out trail steers clear of the trickier, steeper ice terrain so that hostile jagged cliffs turn to the safe gentle slopes ideal for novice ice-trekkers.

Filled with impressive photo opportunities, the route taken by the trek showcases the glacier in various shades of blue, and every so often a profound roar breaks a heavy silence as chunks of the glacier fall to meet their end in Lago Argentino.

The guides are eager to share their knowledge of glacial landforms, and happy to help out in the more difficult parts although the trek itself is moderate. Whilst the crampons are a little tricky to get used to, going uphill becomes easier than going down and being prepared with sunglasses, sun cream, waterproof clothing, removable layers, and some comfortable footwear will all help maintain comfort throughout the trek.

Along with the priceless panoramas, a complimentary alfajor and a glass of whisky, enjoyed literally “on ice”, can’t fail to top it off.