The welcome we received in the train that would take us to Tucumán was not exactly encouraging. “You two aren’t from this country,” the señora sitting directly behind us fired accusingly, sensing our momentary hesitation on where in the overhead racks to store our bags. The next 27 hours would be spent under the same lady’s suspicious gaze.

The Ferrocentral train (Photo: Daniel Edwards)

Many readers might be surprised to learn that there even exists a long-distance train that twice a week spends more than a day crossing Argentina’s wild expanses to connect the Buenos Aires transport hub of Retiro with the northern city of San Miguel de Tucumán, some 1,100km away. Indeed, the service’s sporadic availability, complete lack of advertisement or publicity, and less than friendly customer attention cannot help but leave the impression that they are actively trying to discourage travellers from jumping on the 12-carriage leviathan. But for those who value economy over time, it is a fantastic way to traverse the eighth-largest country on the planet.

Long-distance bus services have long been the transport of choice for destinations across Argentina. Well-maintained, easy to access and with regular services, it is a simple if rather long-winded way to see the country and all its delights. However, the 100s of different companies who offer such excursions are not immune to the rampant inflation which has seen products from milk to football tickets rocket in price. A one-way, semi-cama seat to Tucumán back in 2010 would set you back around $170 (around US$40 at the then-exchange rate): now, you would be extremely lucky to make the same trip for anything less than $500-$600.

This is where Ferrocentral and its trains come into their own. Seemingly impervious to inflation, a turista (the lowest class) return ticket will lighten the thrifty traveller’s pocket to the tune of just $87 (US$18), with prices gently rising in line with increased comfort until you arrive at the luxury of private cabins with bunk beds and breakfast included – still an absolute steal at just $400 shared between two people. Add to that a fully-stocked dining car with prices straight out of 2007, and one can understand why tickets for the services, especially during the holiday months of December and January when Tucumán natives living in Buenos Aires flock home to see the family, can be like gold dust.

“Turista” seats in the Ferrocentral (Photo: Daniel Edwards)

After the rather brusque welcome we settled into our turista seats, fending off constant questioning from the aforementioned señora and her gaggle of friends who were clearly train veterans and looked around our home for the next day and a bit. The cheapest class gives you few luxuries: a cushioned seat that will nevertheless leave your rear end rather numb after the first eight hours or so; a toilet that, while clean and impeccably maintained, is little more than a hole giving the user a view of the tracks speeding past below; a legion of ceiling fans that do their best, in the absence of air conditioning, to stave off the heat of summer; and a window that opens roughly halfway, and is covered on the outside by a Perspex screen.

My companion and I had both wondered aloud early in the trip why it was necessary to deprive passengers of a refreshing blast of country air by covering the apertures with such ugly screens. We soon got our answer, somewhere on the outskirts of Rosario when our daydreams were interrupted by a loud thud on the side of the carriage. The tracks are peppered with informal settlements and shanty towns known as villas in Argentina, and the arrival of the train is always a big event. Some of the younger inhabitants wave at the locomotive as it meanders past, while others entertain themselves by hurling rocks and other projectiles at the perfect example of a slow-moving target.

That rather rude awakening aside, the trip was actually very pleasant. Unlike a coach, movement is easy between carriages, whether one wishes to grab a drink or coffee from the dining car, get up and talk to another passenger or sneak a furtive cigarette in the connecting passageways. The food is cheap and tasty, with the plastic trays on laps normal with road transport replaced by proper tables, an air-conditioned canteen, attentive waiters, and proper cutlery. If you don’t like the look of the menu, don’t worry; cool boxes full of home-made food are ubiquitous among families and you can pack as much as you like, while at the intermittent stops along the way vendors flock to stations such as Rosario Norte, Ceres and La Banda to sell ice-cold drinks and fruit salads, sandwiches and local delicacies. One thing is for sure; you will not, or at least should not, go hungry with Ferrocentral.

Train travel in Argentina was once extensive, but in recent years it has fallen victim to neglect and under-investment. By 1920 there were 27,000km of operational track across the nation, reaching far-flung provinces such as Mendoza, Santa Cruz, Misiones and Chaco. Privatisation in the 1990s under President Carlos Menem, however, proved fatal. Scores of lines that were judged unprofitable or unsustainable were discontinued and left to rot, as were many of the towns that sprung up along the rails. In 2012 there exists just a handful of intercity services; as well as Tucumán, one can reach Córdoba by train as well as several cities on the coast such as Mar del Plata, which leave from Constitución.

The latest casualty of this systemic neglect was the service between Federico Lacroze station in Chacarita and Posadas in Misiones, a journey of over 30 hours that was suspended in 2011 after years of poor upkeep, worse conditions onboard, and wranglings between government and transport unions.

Our plan in the north of Argentina was rather simple. The saving of over $1000 each by opting for the rails would go a long way to funding the renting of a car in Tucumán, a decision which opened up one of the country’s most beautiful, spectacular and friendliest regions. Around San Miguel, the nearby towns of San Javier (one hour away by local bus and complete with one of the biggest statues of Christ in the world, according to the tourist board) and Tafí del Valle offer outstanding examples of the lush vegetation and mountainous terrain found in the area, while further on the wine hub of Cafayate was our introduction to the province of Salta.

Cristo Bendicente statue in San Javier (Photo: Daniel Edwards)

San Miguel itself, often overlooked by travellers, is also well worth a look. Locals are fiercely proud of the fact that it was their city which held the congress in 1816 that declared Argentina’s independence from the crumbling Spanish empire; the whitewashed building that housed delegates has been lovingly restored after being demolished in 1903, and is one of several colonial-era buildings that give Tucumán a distinctive appearance for sight-seers. Also unmissable is the province’s take on empanadas; smaller than their cousins in Buenos Aires, the pastries are also made with more spice than elsewhere in the country and are served with a wedge of lemon to create a uniquely tangy flavour.

‘But… how could I not love you?’ graffiti poetry in the streets of San Miguel (Photo: Daniel Edwards)

A personal vehicle allowed us to stop whenever it took our fancy, and discover a host of towns and villages hidden from the main roads negotiated by charter coaches. A particular favourite was La Caldera, situated on the river of the same name just outside of Salta on the way to Jujuy by way of the sinuous mountain road of the Ruta 9. In suffocating midday temperatures the water, almost completely dried up save for a handful of fast-moving torrents and lagoons among the rocks, was the focal point for hundreds of families and youngsters who had come down to enjoy the ice-cold currents; and despite taking more than a few tumbles in the rapids as the water battered down, I could more than understand why.

The trip took in Jujuy and the awe-inspiring canyon of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, before returning to Tucumán for the next odyssey on rails – for some reason one hour longer than the outgoing voyage. We were now past masters at negotiating the train, and even pulled off a midnight move into the upgraded primera carriages, which offer a similar comfort to a semi cama seat by road albeit at the same ponderous speed of the locomotive. None of the boisterous atmosphere was lost, however; the trip was livened up five hours in by a catholic school on their way to Retiro to visit the sacred city of Luján, and who counted in their ranks an hilarious kid who had the whole carriage in stitches with a pitch-perfect imitation of Argentina’s ubiquitous moving salesmen. From patis to helados to diarios, the lad could have sold anything with his affected rasping tones.

Quebrada de Humahuaca landscape (Photo: Daniel Edwards)

Perhaps the biggest challenge of making the trip by train is getting a ticket in the first place. Demand is fierce due to the extremely competitive pricing and, with just two journeys a week, supply is scarce. Tickets generally go on sale one month beforehand (so December’s trips will be available from the 1^st of November), and there is no provision for telephone or electronic sales, Buenos Aires’ only point of sale is the Ferrocentral office secluded in a remote corner of Retiro’s Mitre station. Passengers can queue for days outside the office in the hope of securing their passage, and while turista seats are hard enough to get in the first place, any higher classes are almost impossible unless you are willing to take a sleeping bag and do the hard hours.

Patience and tenacity, as well as a complete lack of shame, are vital attributes if you want to be one of the lucky few; be flexible on dates and class, if unsuccessful once keep going to the office as cancellations do occur on a regular basis, and don’t fret if you can only buy one of the cheapest, most uncomfortable tickets. Ferrocentral allocates a certain number of seats to all of the seven stations stopped at on the way to Tucumán, and demand is much lower than in the nation’s capital. This is where the shameless aspect comes into play: a few hours into the trip, nonchalantly make your way into primera (the other classes are somewhat more tightly supervised by the train’s employees) and slide yourself into an available seat. You always have the confused tourist card to play in the unlikely event that a guard asks you to move, but this is a rare occurrence. If you are happy to do the whole stretch in turista, do come prepared; a small pillow is easy to overlook while packing, but it will be worth its weight in gold 15 hours in when your body is crying out for a bit of rest.

The Oriental Express, or the Trans-Siberian Railway, it most decidedly is not, and passengers looking for luxury and comfort should look elsewhere – or at least start queuing now in the hope of taking one of the fabled private cabins. For the traveller on a budget, though, looking to begin their exploration of Argentina’s spectacular north-west and continue onwards into Bolivia and Perú the train to Tucumán represents a fantastic alternative to pounding the Rutas; pack the icebox, make yourself comfortable, and in no time at all you’ll have mastered the art of preparing yerba mate balanced on the rickety rails while telling your life story to the señoras who rule the roost in turista.

http://www.sateliteferroviario.com.ar/ is a privately-run website which is a brilliant source of information for everything train-related, giving practical information and advice on trains to Tucumán and elsewhere as well as fascinating histories of the rails. (In Spanish) http://www.ferrocentralsa.com.ar/ is the official site of the company, and gives information on timetables, fares and a rundown of the different classes (Spanish). Reservations, however, must be made in person at Retiro’s Bartolomeu Mitre station. 

Buenos Aires and surroundings is the home to nearly 13 million people and a lengthy laundry list of photogenic must-sees: the bright and lively pastels of La Boca, the beautiful and modern Puerto Madero skyline, the shimmering and industrial metal flower, two towering obelisks, a uniquely colored government headquarters and the classic and exquisite Euro-style architecture throughout the city. But sometimes, amidst all the hustle and bustle, you just need to get away and stare at a mountain for a little while.

The continent of South America offers plenty of locales busting at the seams with natural scenery, and one such spot can be found just a short flight (or long bus ride) to the northeast: the province of Salta. The Indy grabbed a camera, some old shoes and a bottle of bug spray and hit the road to round up the top 5 vistas in this easy-on-the-eyes province.

Teleférico San Bernardo cable car (photo courtesy of Brandon Foster)

Teleférico San Bernando

Right in the center of the city of Salta, the Teleférico San Bernardo is a cable car that takes you right to the top of a mountainwhere you can get an eagle’s eye view of the city of the rustic Salta. Quick and economical, the teleférico is an easy spot to fill some of that space on your camera’s memory card. The view from above gives an insight into the history of the city, as the buildings in Salta skew more traditionally Latin American than the white-washed architecture of Buenos Aires. And while Salta is obviously no Buenos Aires in terms of size, it’s always interesting to see a view of a city that is often reserved only for soon-to-be-landing airline passengers. What’s more, the top of the mountain boasts a restaurant, various lookout points, a playground, waterfalls, a downhill biking adventure and an outdoor workout space so you can use the altitude to your advantage and get in peak hiking shape. (More on that shortly.)

The cable cars load at San Martín and Yrigoyen every day from 10 am to 7 pm, and a round trip will cost you $40. You can also take stairs up and down the mountain if you are so inclined. More information can be found here.

San Lorenzo (photo courtesy of Brandon Foster)

San Lorenzo

Cable cars are nice, but sometimes it’s more rewarding if a viewpoint charges some perspiration and a pair of muddy sneakers as price of admission. Located just out of the city of Salta, San Lorenzo is the home to some of the area’s prime hiking spots. Explore around El Duende de la Quebrada and you can work your way up to nearly cloud level for a gorgeous view that is well worth the effort. What makes the view really special is seeing just how high up you are, in comparison to the clouds (knowing that you got up there with your own two feet also boosts the self-esteem). Horses can also be used to trek the terrain, and a restaurant sits at the base as a tasty incentive to keep putting one foot in front of the other. A rather remote locale, the area houses its share of stray dogs, and, if you’re lucky, some of them just might give you a free guided tour up the mountain.

From the city of Salta, San Lorenzo can be reached by taking the no. 7 bus to the end of its line. It won’t cost you anything to walk up the mountain, but other forms of transport are available, such as ATV rides. For more information, check out the San Lorenzo tourism website.

Salinas Grandes flat sands (photo courtesy of Brandon Foster)

Salinas Grandes

A stunning natural phenomenon, these salt flats took about 22 million years to form the current topography. Salt deposits from a since-disappeared body of water encrust the ground here, forming a durable surface that appears snowy from a distance and almost fossil-like up close. All the while, good ol’ Mother Nature was crafting a perfect spot to dabble in some trick photography. The pure white background is a perfect spot to use depth-of-field to your advantage and get that photo you’ve always wanted with your father standing on your finger, your sister standing on your head, or maybe even your mother-in-law cowering in fear as you prepare to swallow her whole. Your call.

The passage to Salinas Grandes requires a lengthy day trip from the city of Salta. A Las Nubes Tours offers day trips to the flats, which border the neighboring province of Jujuy. Tour information can be found here and general information on the Salinas Grandes is available here.

Cabra Corral (photo courtesy of Brandon Foster)

Cabra Corral

What’s better to look at than a range of beautiful mountains? A range of beautiful mountains with a lake sitting in the middle.The second-biggest lake in South America, Cabra Corral is a placid, man-made lagoon that creates a beautiful foreground for some majestic vistas. Its proximity to red rock makes for some unreal natural juxtaposition. The beauty of the area is enough to get your picture-taking finger buzzing, but if you want to exercise your adrenaline machines as well, the area offers bungee jumping, jet skiing, rappelling and other adventurous activities.

The lake could be reached by rental car or, alternatively, Salta Rafting will take you there if rafting, ziplining, or partaking in delicious asados sounds like your thing. The company’s raft/canopy/parilla spot is not too far past Cabra Corral and offers some spectacular views as well, if your adrenaline has not yet been sated. Information can be found here.

View of Cafayate (photo courtesy of Brandon Foster)

Road to Cafayate

Cafayate is an idyllic little town with renowned wineries that just happens to sit amidst a slew of mountains. It’s gorgeous andcertainly worth the trek from the city of Salta. However, the real star of the excursion might be the 3-hour drive there. You would be hard-pressed to find a better embodiment of the term “scenic route” (Yankees: think Arizona, but bigger and much more accepting of Hispanics). The view along the route is as breath-taking as it is vast. Stops along the way include the disorienting Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), a musician-friendly natural amphitheater, and other natural rock formations that look like a frog, a saint (allegedly) and an obelisk. In reality, pretty much anywhere you’d like to stop and get out the camera is worth it.

To make the journey you could hire a car from Salta, or tour a las Nubes offers a day-long tour to and from Cafayate for reasonable prices. Information can be found here. The price is listed as $195 for the Cafayate day trip, but visit in person and you may get a better rate.

Flip to the section marked “Mendoza” in any Argentina guidebook and you’ll find it: poetics that gush like a generously-handled bottle and read more like a prayer to Dionysus than travel advice.

Granted, Mendoza is one of the top wine capitals of the world, especially famous for its Malbec reds. The area’s stretching fields and more than 1,200 wine bodegas charm amateurs and impress connoisseurs. But then where to turn when you’ve drunk your fill of tastings, and exhausted the available tours, classes, picnics, and bike rides?

We polled natives as well as ex-pats, asking after both classic tourist attractions and undiscovered local treasures. Here is where to head for the multifaceted Mendoza beyond the wineries.

Tour of the Andes (Photo: Mariel Matze)

Tour the Andes

If you arrive by bus, you’ll catch the jagged snow-laced summits a couple of hours before you spot Mendoza itself. The city sprawls in the shadow of the great mountain range, close enough that climbers consider it their last taste of civilization before launching their expeditions for Aconcagua. Rent a car for the day and hit these high-altitude sights, but remember that the views of desolate slopes and formidable peaks on the way are the real attraction.

Ruta 7 winds out of town and eventually crosses the Chilean border, where it continues on to Santiago. Along the way lies Potrerillos, an artificial lake to which locals flock for a weekend of hiking, paragliding, rafting, and kitesurfing. Further up is the turn-off for a small stone and mortar bridge over the thin Picheuta River. José de San Martín used this National Historic Monument in 1817 during his legendary march over the Andes to vanquish the Spanish and liberate southern South America.

Meanwhile, at 6,959m above sea level, the mountain king of the continent, Aconcagua, makes for a handsome photo opportunity. Just beyond, Puente del Inca, a spectacularly coloured natural bridge over the Cuevas River, dazzles visitors with the gold streaks smeared across its natural arch-like watercolours. Scientifically-inclined tourists must satisfy themselves with speculation; its formation remains a mystery even for geologists. For a slightly different mountain experience, head along Ruta 82 for the Cacheuta Thermal Baths, a natural hot springs waterpark in the middle of the mountains.

Be aware that during the winter, road conditions can become dangerous or closed to traffic due to snowstorms or ice. If you’d rather be guided, a number of tour companies offer similar day-trip excursions. The rest of Ruta 7, which leads across the border and into Chile, is equally as scenic and a pleasant way to get to the Santiago area. However, if you plan to take a mere daytrip, it is best to turn around before the border, as clearing customs can take hours. As it is, plan to wake up early for unhurried sightseeing during your 400km round-trip outing.

- Potrerillos: 63 km from the city, just after crossing the Blanco River on Ruta 7.
– Bridge over the Picheuta River: 21km past the town of Uspallata along Ruta 7.
– Aconcagua Provincial Park entrance: 14km before the Chilean border, 52km after the Picheuta River. To enter the park for either hiking or trekking, permits are required and issued in advance in Mendoza.
– Puente del Inca: On Ruta 7, 9km after Aconcagua Provincial Park and only 4km from the Chilean border. Artisan crafts and bathrooms available.
– Cacheuta Thermal Baths: Along Ruta 82, which runs parallel to Ruta 7 on its away out of Mendoza, but unfortunately doesn’t connect. About 30km from the centre of the city. Open year-round, 10am-6pm. Best not to go during the summer, when it tends to crowd. Entrance fees run about $50/person.

A walk through Plaza de Independencia with its beautiful fountain. (Photo: Mariel Matze)

Explore the City

Mendoza is a pretty city, especially downtown. Start at its very heart with a lazy stroll through the Plaza de Independencia. Buy yourself some hot caramelised peanuts and cross your fingers that you catch the towering spouts from the beautiful but intermittently functioning fountains. Either way, street musicians, vendors, and performers will entertain you. Each of the four surrounding secondary plazas, built after Mendoza’s 1861 earthquake as space to take refuge in the event of another seismic shift, has its own charm and is worth a tour.

A bright orange open-top bus marked “El Oro Negro” awaits tourists on the corner of Sarmiento and Chile, on the western edge of the Plaza de Independencia, for rides up to the Cerro de Gloria, a hilltop monument that commemorates San Martín. The ride offers rare sweeping views of the city, which are worth the trip even if you do not catch all the historical information explained in the Spanish-only tour.

On the way down, you will pass through the Parque San Martín, the large municipal park that merits at least an afternoon of meandering. There, teenage couples roller-skate around the lake and friends share picnics in the rose garden. Its many tree-lined paths attract joggers from throughout the area.

El Oro Negro: Tours offered everyday at 11am, 4pm, 6pm, and 7.30pm during the summer. Please call (0261) 498-0510, (0261) 657-6270, or (0261) 539-1614 for more information.

Las luces en Aristides by martesdeporron, on Flickr

Calle Arístides Villanueva

On any warm night, ‘Arístides’’ parties spill out onto the ample sycamore-sheltered sidewalks, where mendocinos and tourists alike lounge on booths over ‘fernet cocas’, Campari with orange juice, and beer. Aside from the nightclub clusters in far-flung Chacras de Coria and El Challao, this is unequivocally Mendoza’s primary party drag. Although the many hostels in the area like Damajuana, Ítaka, and Break Point deliver tonnes of tourists, Aristides is also regularly frequented by mendocinos. Be prepared to start your night out around midnight and end it in the wee hours.

Flip through the 24-page drink menu during happy hour at rock concert-themed Johnny B. Good, a temple to the likes of AC/DC and the Red Hot Chili Peppers. With its especially large selection of imported beer and whiskey, Irish pub William Brown is a favourite among expats. If you want beer on tap but would rather go local, Jerome’s artisan varieties are brewed in nearby Potrerillos using snowmelt from the Andes. For dancing, try Parapithecus (Latin pop and electronic) or Por Acá (rock and indie rock). For a round of pool, Basilika is where to go.

- Damajuana Hostel: Arístides Villanueva 282. (0261) 425-5858.
– Ítaka Hostel: Arístides Villanueva 480. (0261) 423-9793.
- Break Point Hostel: Arístides Villanueva 241. (0261) 423-9514.

- Johnny B. Good: Arístides Villanueva 373. Happy hour Mon-Fri 7pm-9pm. (0261) 423-3676.
– William Brown Bar: Arístides Villanueva 301, on the corner of Olascoaga. (0261) 420-0693.
– Jerome’s Pub: Arístides Villanueva 347. (0261) 420-4091.
Parapithecus Evolution Bar: Arístides Villanueva 264. (0261) 234-4893 (after 5pm).
Por Acá: Arístides Villanueva 557. (0261) 420-0364. 7pm-5am.
Basilika: Arístides Villanueva 332. (0261) 154548158.

Olive Trees by cjette, on Flickr

Olivícolas

The much overshadowed other pride of Mendoza is its olive products. For those who enjoy wine tourism, a parallel but far less commercialised industry lies in the olive groves. Like their fellows at the bodegas, tour guides explain how the fruit is harvested, pressed, separated from residue, processed, and bottled as olive oil. Tastings still involve a swill, sniff, and sip. Here too you can find excellent souvenirs, from olives themselves to oil to cosmetic products. But look out upon the orchards and instead of strict rows of staked grapevines, knuckly olive trees reach upwards, their leaves catching the sunlight. Mendoza’s olivícolas lend the education and gastronomic pleasure of its bodegas, but these silver-shaded farms possess a distinct beauty.

The department of Maipú is especially prolific; olive producers Simone, Maguay, Pasrai, Bodega CarinaE, and Laur form a tight cluster perfect for olivícola-hopping. At Familia Zuccardi, one of Mendoza’s best-known bodegas, guests can spend a day picking their own olives, with tasting at the end, or feast at the Pan y Oliva restaurant, which features an olive-based menu. For a relaxing getaway, settle in at luxury inn Posada Verde Oliva for “olive oil therapy” spa treatments. A three-hour drive south will take you to beautiful San Rafael, where Yancanelo offers the most comprehensive option with an olive oil museum, tours, and tasting platters.

- Olivícola Simone: Ozamis Sur 1553, Russell, Maipú. (0261) 481-1151.
– Maguay: Tastings and tours. Ozamis Sur 1491, Russell, Maipú. (0261) 497-2632.
– Pasrai: Ozamis Sur 2731, Maipú. (0261) 499-0472 or (0261) 499-0734.
– Bodega Carinae: Videla Aranda 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú. 10am-6pm. Tours in English, Spanish, and French upon request. (0261) 499-0470, (0261) 524-1629, or (0261) 524-1630.
– Laur Olivícola: Includes olive oil museum. Videla Aranda 2850, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú. (0261) 499-0716.
– Familia Zuccardi: Ruta Provincial 33, Km 7.5, Maipú. (0261) 441-0000.
– Posada Verde Oliva: Montecaseros 2223, Coquimbito, Maipú. (0261) 481-3889.
– Yancanelo: Store open everyday 10am-8pm. Av. Hipólito Yrigoyen 4030, San Rafael. (0260) 442-3879, extension 209.

Chacras de Coria Church (Photo: Mariel Matze)

Chacras de Coria

Once upon a time, the village of ‘Coria Farms’ matched its name. In the past couple of decades, this sleepy corner of Mendoza has developed rapidly, rendering ‘Chacras’ both chic and quaint. For the rest of Mendoza, downtown Chacras is a gastronomic attraction, its outskirts are a nightlife destination, and the entire valley is a haven of slightly cooler temperatures during the summer. Yet this is still a town of sidewalk run-ins and neighbourly intimacy, albeit with more novelty shops and scarcer parking.

The best day to visit is Sunday, when children storm the plaza with skateboards and soccer balls and families chat over a quiet mate. Hunt for unique souvenirs amidst the jewellery, knitware, wooden carving, antique, and handmade children’s toy stalls, which ring the plaza for the weekly fair. In bright Spanish stucco, the church stands watch from across the street. With plenty of clothing boutiques, delicacy food shops, cafes, and gourmet restaurants, Chacras is a town for meandering on a lazy day, accompanied by your wallet, book, appetite, and travel buddy. Be aware that much of the town observes the siesta hour roughly between the hours of 1pm and 4pm.

From downtown Mendoza, take the 15 or 16 municipal bus line from stops on 25 de Mayo and Necochea or 25 de Mayo and San Lorenzo (the bus is green and marked by a large red “1”, bus line displayed in the window). Fare is $2.70 and must be paid with coins only. Bus ride takes about 40 minutes. Disembark three stops after turning from Besares onto Italia; best to ask the driver to let you know upon arrival in Chacras.

For more tips, recommendations, and events listings (both wine-related and not), check out the Wine Republic, an English-language publication based in Mendoza

Andvord Bay is completely still, sheltered from the elements and ignorant of time. All around us the summits of submerged mountains poke up from a gunmetal grey sea. Glaciers ooze from every valley, rippling like meringue down steep cliffs to the water’s edge, where tomorrow’s icebergs hang patiently, waiting for an opportunity to break free. It’s New Year’s Day in Antarctica, a place where dates and calendars are as insignificant as the few people lucky enough to have been here.

Antarctica Lone Penguin (Photo by Marc Rogers)

Antarctica – known as the white continent or the last great wilderness – is the only uninhabited continent left on the planet. It’s also the coldest, windiest, driest, highest, and understandably, the most remote. Apart from a few brave scientists, the vast continent, roughly twice the size of Australia, is devoid of human activity for most of the year. It is only in the southern summer, from December to February, that tourists are able to set eyes and feet on its frozen landscapes.

Arriving at the Antarctic peninsula, the mountainous finger of land that points towards southern Argentina, is a triumph in itself. It may be the most accessible part of the continent (only two days from the inhabited world, by boat), and part of the 2% that isn’t blanketed in thick ice, but getting there requires crossing the Drake passage, known as one of the roughest stretches of water in the world.

As we leave picturesque Ushuaia in the ‘Antarctic Dream’, a former Chilean navy expedition ship now spruced up for tourism, our team of guides begin a programme of safety and education that will span the entire 11-day round trip. It starts with a warning from Pablo, expedition team leader: “In Antarctica, the weather and the ice are in charge.”

In the coming days, lectures will reinforce this message, detailing a history of human endeavour in some of the worst conditions our planet can conjure. We hear about Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s doomed expedition to the South Pole in 1912 and Ernest Shackleton’s miraculous tale of survival in 1916 (see box out). As we tuck into a fine salmon fillet for dinner, it’s clear our expedition will be more comfortable than for those great explorers, though a fully-stocked buffet and wine service is of little comfort during 48 hours of seasickness.

The reward, in any case, is suitably spectacular. Not long after crossing the Antarctic convergence, the point at which the cold waters that circle the icy continent hit the relatively warmer currents coming from the north, we begin to see our first icebergs, drifting silently to extinction.

As landfall approaches, the seas calm and everything seems to come to a respectful standstill. We’ve made good time over a mercifully quiet Drake and our expedition team, clearly as excited as we are, decide to take us out on the inflatable zodiac cruisers in the late afternoon. It’s an impressive introduction to the white world: Discovery Bay is full of giant icebergs that look especially threatening against a backdrop of angry storm clouds.

We spend the next six days exploring the magnificent bays and islands of the peninsula’s western coastline, stopping once or twice a day to venture out in the zodiacs or head ashore for guided walks. It is on day three that we enter the other-worldly Andvord Bay, hiking a snowy low-level peak and gazing out over a scene so pure and perfect that it seems almost manufactured, like the set of an expensive car advertisement.

Antarctica icebergs(Photo by Marc Rogers)

Back on the ship at dinner time, we quickly run out of superlatives for the sights of the day. To face such exquisite beauty – to see the world as it was intended to be – stirs such deep emotions that silence is the only appropriate response. American writer Kim Stanley Robinson described such moments in Antarctica best as “impossible to imagine beforehand, impossible to remember afterwards”.

Into the Wild

The marvels continue. On one unusually bright afternoon, we cruise among giant icebergs in our zodiac, a tiny black speck in a fleet of frozen sculptures. Iridescent white façades tower above us, scratched with folds of pure electric blue, the complex artistry of wind and water. Something, at last, disturbs the silence: the sea begins to froth nearby as dozens of curious gentoo penguins approach, skimming the surface like black and white pebbles. Then, a deep sigh and jet of water spray; a crescent of black gently breaks the surface and disappears again – Minke whales port-side.

The interaction with marine wildlife is a constant thrill – many a meal in the window-paned dining room is interrupted by excited shouts of “whales!” and a rush to take photos. Antarctica may be too hostile for land mammals, but the icy waters are home to penguins, seals, and whales, all unaccustomed to, and therefore largely unafraid of, human interference.

Through the expert teachings of Ignacio, a chirpy biologist and expedition guide, we can correctly name the Weddell seals we find snoozing on icy rafts and identify that various species of birds that follow our boat, looking for food in the trail of churning water. Curious humpback whales frequently emerge beside the ship, jumping and splashing for the cameras.

Antarctica Penguin (Photo by Marc Rogers)

And then there are the penguins; thousands of them, everywhere, baying like donkeys and spreading a foul odour of old fish. Colonies of gentoos, adélies, and chinstrap varieties populate the Antarctic Peninsula in summer – the better-known emperor penguins are typically found on other parts of the continent – as they come ashore to breed. Lightning fast in the water, penguins are a constant source of amusement on land, where they have no natural predators and are as ungainly as humans when walking on snow and ice.

Their social habits are fascinating: nests are constructed with small pebbles so as to be just beyond pecking reach of the neighbours. Those in the middle of the colony have to run the gauntlet to get in and out, dodging bites and angry abuse. Every colony also seems to have a few sneaky thieves, who prefer to steal the pebbles from unguarded nests rather than go and find their own.

In the middle of one large colony of gentoos we spot a solitary macaroni penguin, its unmistakable yellow crest arched in what looks like a frown as it faces into a howling wind and contemplates a summer spent with the wrong species. In Antarctica, it seems, even the locals sometimes get lost.

Back to the Real World

The news from the bridge that we have reached the southernmost point of our journey – a few degrees of latitude above the Antarctic circle – and are turning back is disappointing.

There is still time, however, for a visit to the world’s most southerly post office at the British station on Port Lockerby, where we get our passports stamped, browse an unlikely gift shop, and take photos of penguins nesting under the Union Jack flag. Our final stopping point is Deception Island, a horseshoe of land formed by the flooded caldera of a still-active volcano. Here we are given a reminder of Pablo’s first-day warning, as a sudden blizzard cuts our walk short and prevents us from taking a dip in the bay that is, supposedly, heated from below.

Antarctica sunset (Photo by Marc Rogers)

Finally, we leave the frozen world behind us and head back towards civilisation. The two-day return provides plenty of time for reflection, though this time the Drake lives up to its infamous reputation, tossing us about on 8-metre waves and confining half of the passengers to their cabins.

I’m drowsy from anti-sickness drugs, but one question rolls and dips in my mind to the rhythm of the waves: “how does anyone go back to the ‘normal’ world after this?”. It’s a question I put to Pablo as the port of Ushuaia looms into view. “I don’t know,” he replies, after a moment’s thought. “That’s why I’m still here.”

Antarctica iceberg (Photo by Marc Rogers)

Antarctica Facts

- The lowest temperature ever on Earth (-89.2ºC) was recorded at the Russian Vostok research station on the East Antarctica ice sheet in 1983.

- The ice sheet that covers 98% of Antarctica – on average nearly 2km thick – contains 90% of the world’s ice and around 70% of its fresh water.

- The continent doubles in size in the winter as surrounding sea ice freezes.

- Fossils of animals and plants show that Antarctica once had a temperate climate, and was covered in forest.

- The Antarctic Treaty that governs the continent was signed in 1959 and is now adhered to by over 50 countries – its first article prohibits any military activity in Antarctica, stating that it shall be used “for peaceful purposes only”.

- Seven states have internationally unrecognised territorial claims over parts of Antarctica, some of them overlapping. All are signatories of the Antarctic treaty, which explicitly grants no sovereign rights to any parties.

Tourism

26,500 tourists visited Antarctica in the 2011-2012 season, most on boats leaving from southern Argentina or Chile. Tours vary in length from 10-20 days and can include some specialist activities such as kayaking or spending a night camped on mainland Antarctica.

Prices vary dramatically depending on the class of ship, cabin choice, and length of tour – finding a tour priced at under US$5,000 is rare. However, most operators offer deep last-minute discounts, sometimes cutting 70% from the list price to fill empty cabins. In Ushuaia, it is usually possible to find discounted tours leaving within 48 hours advertised in hostels, hotels, and travel agencies.

Before buying, check that the ship is part of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO). It outlines strict rules designed to minimise the impact of human travel on the continent, such as capping the number of people ashore at any one time at 100. Decontamination procedures are required before and after every landing to prevent foreign species or organic material being introduced into the local ecosystem.

Alley in Colonia (Photo by Helena Andell)

For those travellers spending any significant amount of time in Buenos Aires, Colonia del Sacramento, the tiny historic city on the Uruguayan side of the Río de la Plata, will most likely find its way onto your travel itinerary, whether you like it or not.

A trip to Colonia has become so enmeshed with the whole ‘porteño experience’ that most Buenos Aires guidebooks dedicate at least a few pages to the city – one even dares place it at Number 4 on the list of top ten things to do in Buenos Aires, as if the place were simply an extension of Argentina.

The centuries-old port city is the go-to destination for expats and long-term travellers who, glancing casually at a calendar or their passport, suddenly realise that three months of living the good life in BA have flown by and they are facing ‘illegal alien’ status.

At this point, two options remain: spend what could easily become an entire day standing on line at the Immigration Offices in Retiro, watching bureaucrats calmly sip mate as the queue winds out the door and down the block, or hightail it out of the country for a day or two. Understandably, most choose the latter.

What begins as a harmless daytrip across the lazy Río, however, can quickly and unintentionally devolve into a spending spree more costly than just paying the ‘overstayed-your-welcome’ fee; touristy Colonia takes full advantage of its expat-haven reputation and prices reflect that. That being said, we at The Indy hopped on the Buquebus to scope out the Top 5 things to do in Colonia that won’t break the bank.

Old map (Photo by Chris Barrett)

Stroll Through the Barrio Histórico

Ok, so this one is fairly obvious. ‘Colonia del Sacramento’ must translate from the Spanish as ‘the land time forgot’ because that is certainly how you feel, strolling down the hilly, narrow cobbled streets strewn with all manner of antique cars and crumbling stone foundations. It exudes an atmosphere part pirate’s cove, part Old Havana, and will only cost you the price of the ferry ticket to enjoy.

Upon exiting the city’s modern ferry terminal, head left down Av. Florida, following the now defunct railroad tracks of the Colonia line, and after six blocks you will reach the Portón de campo, an imposing colonial-era gateway leading into the historic district.

Colonia was founded in 1680 by the Portuguese and changed hands so often – first between Spain and Portugal, then between Argentina and the Empire of Brazil – that in 1825 the poor Uruguayans had no choice but to say “¡Basta!” and declare their independence. They have been quietly perfecting the arts of football and asado ever since.

Just about every street corner, palm tree, bougainvillea, and porcelain street sign in the historic district demands to be photographed, though the most popular sites are without doubt the Faro, or lighthouse, the Iglesia Matriz (Uruguay’s oldest church), and the Calle de los Suspiros, or ‘Street of Sighs’. Today it’s not clear if the sighs are those of the awe-struck tourists or the exasperated, eye-rolling locals.

Beuatiful old house in Colonia (Photo by Helena Andell)

The City’s Museums

Colonia offers no less than eight museums, seven of which are located within blocks of each other in the historic district. The good news for the budget-minded traveller is that the price of one ticket (UR$50, or about $12 at time of writing) will get you access to all eight.

Tickets must be purchased at the Municipal Museum located just off the Plaza Mayor, and although nearly everywhere in Colonia accepts Argentine pesos, Brazilian reals, and even US dollars, the museums only accept local currency (there is an exchange bureau just across the Plaza, next to the Freddo).

As you will have to get your ticket there anyway, the Municipal Museum is a good place to start. Its two floors showcase the various periods and cultures of Colonia, including indigenous Charrúa artifacts, a scale model of the city during the colonial period, Portuguese and Spanish clothing and furniture, ancient mammal fossils, and a small, eerie taxidermy room. There’s also the massive skeleton, out in the garden, of a blue whale that washed ashore decades ago.

The Portuguese and Spanish museums are housed in buildings dating from – you guessed it – the eras of Portuguese and Spanish dominion over Colonia. Though small, they offer a glimpse at the lavish lifestyles the Iberian aristocracy attempted to recreate in their New World colonies. The Spanish Museum contains a collection of colourful, abstract paintings by Montevideo-born artist Jorge Paez Vilaró depicting scenes from the city’s turbulent history, that is particularly worth checking out.

How to eat a chivito manual (Photo by Helena Andell)

Chivito Picnic

Uruguayans are just as beef-crazy as their Argentine neighbours, if not more so, and it becomes quickly apparent while meandering Colonia’s streets that here, something called ‘chivito’ reigns supreme.

Although chivito translates as ‘little goat’, this local favourite is actually made with thin slices of filet mignon, much like the Argentine lomito. According to legend, a Uruguayan chef, lacking mutton, served the thin cut of beef disguised with a blend of spices on a sandwich to an unsuspecting, goat-craving Argentine patron. The name stuck, and now chivito is consumed throughout Uruguay either as a simple sandwich or on a bed of French fries piled high with ham, mozzarella, bacon, and a fried egg.

Nearly every restaurant in the historic district and lining the city’s central Av. General Flores offers variations of the towering, artery-thickening meat dish, and for the most part prices hover around UR$230 (about AR$56). The closer the restaurant is to the water, the pricier the chivito.

We recommend trekking ever-so-slightly off the tourist path, down a side street or towards the Plaza 25 de Agosto (east, away from the historic district); there you will find numerous fire-engine red food stands dishing out the good stuff for half the price. Pull up a chair with the locals or get a sandwich to go, and head down to the water for a much more affordable seaside meal.

Mate (Photo by Chris Barrett)

Feria Artesanal

After sightseeing and eating, buying souvenirs is the top activity Colonia offers its visitors. Every idyllic corner that isn’t occupied by a quaint yet overpriced restaurant is home to a gift shop offering ceramics, t-shirts, postcards, model ships, tiny reproductions of the city’s porcelain street signs, and Uruguay-themed mate gourds called ‘porongos’ (big, heavy and leatherbound – like the Hummer of mate gourds to Argentina’s little Fiats).

Any of these make nice gifts or souvenirs, but as with the restaurants, you pay more in the historic district, and the bigger stores on Av. General Flores aren’t much better.

Instead, head north to the corner of Calles Dr. Daniel Fosalba and Lavalleja, where the city’s artisanal fair is held daily from 10am to 7pm. Many of the stands offer products similar to those found in the gift shops (although admittedly of dubious quality, in some cases), at much more affordable prices. Mates, football scarves and jerseys, wind chimes, candombe drums, postcards, thermoses, leather goods, sweets, knit sweaters, and much more are all available here.

Harbor (Photo by Chris Barrett)

The Rambla Costanera

While it certainly doesn’t rival the more famous beaches of Montevideo and Punta del Este, the sandy stretch of Colonia’s Rambla Costanera, about a 15-minutes’ walk from the historic district, offers a relaxing escape from the snap-happy crowds and is a pleasant place to pass the time while waiting for the ferry home.

Walking north along the Rambla Cristóbal Colón, with the Río de la Plata to the left and residential neighbourhoods to the right, you feel as if you are leaving the overdone quaintness of the historic district and entering the living, breathing Colonia. Locals zip past on mopeds, while down on the beach families fish, play football, build sandcastles, and picnic.

Settle down amidst the palms and bizarre coral formations dotting the beach, break in that new (reasonably priced!) mate gourd, and watch the yachts docking in the distance. Following the Rambla Cristóbal Colón back the way you came (it eventually becomes Calle Alberto Mendez) will take you directly to the ferry terminal, and from there to the open arms (for another 90 days, at least) of chaotic Buenos Aires.

A strong storm has hit the capital with certain areas in Belgrano and Palermo already flooding while the rain is set to continue this afternoon.

The National Meteorological Service (SMN) announced this morning that strong winds and heavy rain were expected in Buenos Aires this afternoon.

The SMN warned that the electric storm could include hail as well as a downpour of water that could cause floods but said the worst of the storms would not hit the city itself.

The city government warned that strong winds were to be expected and cautioned locals to keep potentially dangerous object such as flower pots and chairs inside rather than on balconies and patios.

Warnings were also issued to motorists to take special care while driving in the city. A drop in temperatures will follow the storm after an exceptionally hot week in Buenos Aires. The floods caused by the storm could prove particularly problematic after a recent strike carried out by disposal workers left abnormally high quantities of trash on the streets.

Watch this space for any major updates on the storm in the capital:

3:30pm

The storm has now moved on from Buenos Aires and the Subte lines have returned to full service while traffic in the capital is slowly returning to normal.

2:11pm

Traffic is cut on Cabildo between Mendoza and Roosvelt.

2:06pm

Gral Paz has two less lanes and traffic is very limited, as is Libertadores with three lanes flooded.

2:05pm

Electricity has been cut for security reasons in certain areas of Belgrano.

2:00pm

Some Subte lines are running again, Line C is still completely closed, Dorrego station is closed on Line B, and Scalibrini Ortiz remains closed on Line D, other lines are reported to be working.

1:45pm

TV images show locals wading through waist-deep water in Belgrano.

1:40pm

The temperature has dropped 10 degrees since the beginning of the storm.

1:15pm

The Subte is disrupted because of the floods, Line D trains are not stopping at Scalibrini Ortiz.

12:30pm

Minister for Public Spaces of the City of Buenos Aires says: “Emergency protocols have been activated so that parks and plazas are closed to the public to avoid people circulating between trees.”

Cuba has announced a change in their migration policy; citizens will no longer need to obtain exit permits to travel abroad. The only requirements for travel will be a passport and a visa of the destination country.

In the past, Cubans had to ask permission from the government in order to leave the country. Authorities have also extended the time Cubans can stay abroad to 24 months.

“Those exceeding this term must obtain a record of extension granted by a Cuban consulate in the destination country,” the resolution states.

Leaders, university professionals, doctors and high performance athletes that are vital to Cuba’s development will still need to get travel authorised by their superiors. This part of the preexisting law will stay in effect to prevent what Raúl Castro’s government called the “brain drain.”

According to the Cuban government, Cuba must “defend themselves” against this phenomenon by limiting migration.

“The persistence of policies favoring the brain drain are aimed to shed human resources necessary for economic, social and scientific development. Cuba is obligated to maintain measures to fight this front,” stated an editorial official for local newspaper Granma.

The newspaper said that Cuba seeks to “facilitate travel abroad by citizens with private affairs.”

The law will take affect on 14th January 2013.

Women expats and helpers who live in Buenos Aires have voluntarily given their time to put together ‘Hola, Buenos Aires!’ e-book for those wishing to relocate to Argentina’s capital city. The ladies are from all over the world and, after experiencing the city first-hand, decided to take an old, spiral-bound city guide that they had found in the University Women’s Club of Buenos Aires, update it and turn it into a modern manual for managing the metropolis.

The first edition of the book was published in 1989 with six or seven contributing women. It was then updated, with the last print edition publishing in 2003. The new e-book is a result of the efforts of 23 contributing ladies, including some who no longer live in Buenos Aires, but helped out with editing and proof-reading.

All proceeds from the US$14.99 cover price of the e-book will go to the Association of Sponsors of Rural Students and Schools (APAER), an Argentine NGO that promotes education in disadvantaged rural schools.

The book covers topics ranging from food, traffic, the ‘how-to’ of everyday life (like paying bills, when stores are open), to coping with culture-shock. The Argentina Independent had the chance to sit down with one of the project’s leaders, Michal Leon, who has been living in BA since October 2009. She is an entrepreneur as well as wife of the South African ambassador to Argentina. Although their time in Buenos Aires was up at the end of September, Michal felt it would be helpful to update the book for those choosing to move to Buenos Aires, helping them to have an easy and accessible guide to help them in the integration process. In a way, the digital version of ‘Hola, Buenos Aires!’ is her legacy in Buenos Aires.

“When you move to a country with someone from that culture, the shock is much softer, but for those who do not have that, this book will help them,” Michal explained.

When it comes to the basics, the book also helps out on letting sojourners know things to expect that you are not expecting, like food. The simpler things, like peanut butter, tomato juice, tomato and bean sauce, just do not exist. Hot sauce is also hard to come by, although some foreigners have taken on the challenge themselves.

There is a section on where to find a screwdriver or how to get your laundry done if you do not have a washing machine, as well as sections that have information for those who are bringing pets, or even legal matters that expand beyond the embassy. There is a chapter for those who are choosing to leave Argentina and how to prepare for that, too.

“The book is meant to prepare people who choose to live in Argentina for a month up to forever,” Michal added.

The book was released online on Monday and costs US$14.99. All proceeds go to APAER. To download the book, visit: www.uwcba.com.ar.

Being travel savvy in Buenos Aires doesn’t just mean knowing your Guía T inside-out or know the best way to hail a cab in the rain — the cream of the crop know how to get to and from Ezeiza Airport without breaking a sweat.

When the city airport closed a couple of months ago for work on the runway, thousands more travellers were heading out to Ezeiza on a daily basis, with many of them left with little choice to forking out a whopping $130 or higher for a taxi. But whilst there is no public shuttle service, there are alternatives to taking a cab, as Rosalind Walters discovers.

1. HI Travel Shuttle Service

HI Travel provides a service to and from the Ezeiza Airport five times daily. The shuttle service costs US$11 and can take you from Ezeiza to one of the many drop-off points throughout Buenos Aires.

Shuttles leaving Ezeiza to Buenos Aires begin at 8am and the last one leaves for the city at 6.30pm, whereas shuttles from Buenos Aires to Ezeiza depart starting at 7am with the last shuttle of the day leaving for the airport at 5pm. Their pick-up/drop-off points can be found at the HI affiliated hostels and a clearly marked area at the Ezeiza airport. Arrival and departure times vary on traffic, though most trips will take between 1h15 and 1h30 travel time.

Guests and those looking to reserve a shuttle space are at the liberty to book online, over the phone, through email, or at one of the many hostels with which they work between two hours to 48 hours in advance. Booking can also be made directly at their office on Florida 835.

For the full list of shuttle times, hostel lists and how to book your shuttle pick-up, visit www.hostelshuttle.com.ar

2. Silver Star Car

Not a fan of crowded public transportation or stumbling through Spanish with bus terminals or taxi drivers? Private car company, Silver Star Car, is a more personal alternative to airport transportation. Founded in 2009 by husband and wife couple, Fred Badagnani and Karina Zurita, this personal car service is not only provided in English and recommended by Lonely Planet, but also gives your arrival or departure into Buenos Aires a celebrity feel.

Being a private service, Silver Star Car can have arrangements or bookings made on their website or by phone as to the time, date and location of your pick-up and drop off. You can ride in style to the airport for US$92 and picked up from Ezeiza for US$132. Their prices for pickups, drop offs, tours and more include parking and tolls.

The luxury service has three cars insured and certified for your airport arrival, the Citroen C6 Sedan, a Lincoln Town Car and a Citroen C4. Their website provides photos, details, testimonials and prices to the service of their Silver Star Cars.

If you ever decide to make that grand entrance or exit from Buenos Aires, Silver Star Car sets apart from the average public bus, van or taxi.

For more information regarding their other tour services, cars and standard prices, visit www.silverstarcar.com. All prices are correct as of December 2010.

3. Mini Bus S.R.I.

The Mini Bus S.R.I service provides a small shuttle serving 4-19 passengers depending on the vehicle and operates right outside of Paseo Colón Avenue in Monserrat. For $21 you can travel with Mini Bus to Ezeiza.

Shuttles run between Buenos Aires and Ezeiza Monday to Friday beginning at 8.30am until 6.30pm, every 15 minutes. Packages of prepaid tickets can be purchased at a discount, depending on the number of tickets purchased, however there is no need to make a reservation for a standard ticket – all you have to do is show up to the pick-up point and pay the chauffer with cash.

The Mini Bus picks up passengers heading to the airport at Av. Paseo Colón and Av. Belgrano. The website also offers assistance and information in Spanish, Portuguese and English.

Monday-Friday, for package prices, postal and other information check out www.minibusezeiza.com.ar. Prices increase with luggage. 

4. Number 8 Bus

Number 8 bus (Photo: Beatrice Murch)

Public transport afficionados – and those with more time than money – will be happy to know that there is a public bus that heads to the airport.

For only $2 (with a SUBE, $4 without) you can have a frills-free ride to the airport on the most basic and unexpected forms of public transportation. While all of the #8’s have airport written on the top, if you are headed to the airport, make sure that it’s written on the bottom half of the sign as well.

The route and stops of the bus heading to and from the Ezeiza International Airport to Hospital Argerich is more fine-tuned in the Guía T, the guidebook to Buenos Aires public transportation. Sure places to catch the #8 are as it travels up Av. Independencia, Perú and Av. Belgrano before hitting Av. De Mayo and Av. Rivadavia and on to the highway.

However, as true with all public buses in Argentina, the sooner you catch it, the easier it is to find a seat and relax, and be sure to give yourself a good couple of hours to get there.

For those who are not familiar with the Guía T guidebook to public transportation, Como Viajo is a good place to find your way around Buenos Aires from the comfort of your chair. For more information in the #8 bus, make sure to check www.comoviajo.com

5. Manuel Tienda León

Manuel Tienda León prides themselves in the security of their ride to and from Ezeiza airport to their station, Terminal Madero. With a bus running at least every hour, coming and going from the airport has never been so easy.

For $70 Manuel will take you to the airport in their air-conditioned buses with a secure luggage area and large reclining seats for the ride in. All pick-ups and drop-offs to and from Ezeiza are stationed at the Terminal Madero at Av. Madero and San Martín. Tickets can be purchased ahead of time as well as at their counter at the Ezeiza terminal, online and the Terminal Madero station.

Prices vary depending on the type of vehicle you choose from Manuel, whether it is the bus or the Remis, four-seater vehicle. Still, this very straightforward method of airport transit is staple for both Argentines and travelers alike.

Prices, locations and hours of transit are available at Manuel Tienda León’s website www.tiendaleon.com.ar

Pilar Nature Reserve (Photo: Tracey Chandler)

When we hear the term “conscious-travel,” we think of globe-trotting trends to take care of the environment, or expeditions that invite the visitor to help repair the damage caused to our natural world every day. Rarely do we consider a kind of travel which asks us to remember how to connect.

In Argentina, any travel agency can sort you out with an unforgettable trip to see icebergs, waterfalls, vineyards or multi-coloured canyons. For a little over a year, the dedicated team of two at Tierra Natural Viajes has been developing a different kind of tourist experience under the banner of conscious travel; a stimulating alternative to the standard idea of tourism, encouraging travellers to fall entirely in tune with all that they encounter.

Formulating a stronger connection with the self is an important strand behind agency founders Julieta Salvi and Rossana Pua’s concept of conscious-travel. With a real zest for what they do, they explain that, “travel is an experience which allows us to stop trying to be the person we believe we should be and allows us to become the person we really are.”

With this premise in mind they develop programmes that nurture a heightened sense of contemplation. Every travel experience emphasises the importance of healthy eating and a number of their excursions place the practice of yoga and meditation at the centre of the visit.

By way of example, in October 2012, Tierra Natural Viajes is offering a four-day travel experience to a Buddha retreat, located in the Traslasierra region of Córdoba province.
In this trip, visitors can practice yoga, meditation and walk in the Condorito National Park Canyons. Daily activities are scheduled in the organic vegetable garden and both accommodation and meals – natural, homemade and organic – are included in the price.

All the programmes offered by Julieta and Rossana promote a cognizant care of the environment. They openly focus on the social integration of the traveller within native communities, such as those connected to the Caburé-i jungle retreat in Misiones, and deliberately ensure that local economies are developed and supported by the tourism they generate.

Even though the idea of conscious-travel at Tierra Natural Viajes encompasses more than the standard notion of caring for the environment, ‘grass roots’ eco-tourism remains an important focus for Julieta and Rossana.

Their excursions regularly introduce interested travellers to the immediate environmental concerns plaguing a number of areas in Argentina. This is the goal of one of their most popular one-day travel experiences, an environment-conscious horse-back ride through the Nature Reserve in Pilar.

The Cabalgatas (Photo: Tracey Chandler)

The day begins at 8.30am at Retiro Train Station, where a 90-minute train journey carries the small, intimate group to Villa Rosa in Pilar, some 60km northwest of Buenos Aires. At Villa Rosa, the group enjoys a two-hour horse-back ride in the capable hands of the local gauchos, including a quick mid-morning pit-stop for mates and home-baked, organic cake, before arriving at the reserve.

Even though it will only be turning nine this year, the reserve has already suffered considerable environmental abuse. Two problems in particular are proving difficult to overcome. The first relates to the tonnes of waste from the surrounding factories in Pilar which is continually dumped into the Luján River. The second is the result of an infestation of the foreign tree species, known as Black Acacia, which is preventing other native species in the reserve from growing.
The good news is that municipal financial support is now in place and helps fund the efforts of the new, four-strong team of park rangers who are responsible for the care and redevelopment of the region.

However, whilst the municipality may be providing wages for the park rangers, it does not provide funding for the on-site grounds that enable them to work effectively, nor does it directly sponsor the environmental repair projects. All of the work going on at the reserve to revive the ecology and educate the local community is funded by The Natural Heritage Association (La Asociación Patrimonio Natural) and individual donations.

Tierra Natural Viajes works to educate visitors about these challenges. All those who take part in the horse-back ride to Pilar are given a thorough and in-depth tour of the badly affected areas on the reserve and then invited to take direct action by planting young, native trees under the guidance of the park rangers.

Cooking Lunch (Photo: Tracey Chandler)

The support that Tierra Natural Viajes provides goes beyond that of its eco-conscious travel day. Both Julieta and Rossana are deeply involved with the reserve’s redevelopment and are able to help anyone interested in volunteering intensively on the project at any time.

This kind of additional effort is what makes Tierra Natural Viajes stand out as a truly authentic travel agency concerned about the environment. In another popular tour – a one-day bike ride to the Sabe La Tierra Market in San Fernando, in the north of Buenos Aires – the emphasis is not just on cycling, an environmentally-friendly means of transport, but the special recycled bicycles that Tierra Natural Viajes offers to those who don’t have their own wheels.

Julieta and Rossana have personally recycled each and every bicycle available for use on the tour, constructing them using discarded materials that have been salvaged from a number of neighbourhoods across Buenos Aires. Each bicycle has its very own story to share and listening to the owners recount these stories is a truly magical travel experience in itself.

Tierra Natural Viajes concentrates on nurturing a synergy of experiences. If you do decide to journey across Argentina with Julieta and Rossana, be prepared to fall in love with what you encounter and don’t be surprised if you still find yourself planting trees on the Nature Reserve in Pilar many years from now.