Tag Archive | "yerba"

The Mensú: Modern Slavery in the Alto Paraná


The Paraguayan Department of Itapúa and the Argentine Province of Misiones are united a common geography, history and ethnicity. For this region, yerba mate has been an important common component since pre-Columbian times.

A yerba mate plantation. (Photo: Leandro Kibisz)

A yerba mate plantation. (Photo: Leandro Kibisz)

Apart from playing an important role in Guaraní culture, yerba mate was also an important economic resource and source of political power for the Jesuit Missions that were spread over this territory during colonial times. The product remained critical during the first decades of independence of both countries, Argentina and Paraguay, and it became central for the Alto Paraná region at the end of the 19th century and into the first half of the 20th century.

However, there is another side to the story of yerba mate production, the investigation of which remains an unfinished task for local historians and social researchers: The Mensú system or the regime of labour exploitation and modern slavery in the natural yerbales of the Alto Paraná zone.

Even though some authors like Rafael Barrett, Horacio Quiroga, Alfredo Varela, and Augusto Roa Bastos wrote about the Mensú, and there are a couple of very famous Argentine films such as Mario Soffici´s ‘Los Prisioneros de la Tierra’ (‘Prisoners of the Land’) in 1939, and ‘Las Aguas Bajan Turbias’ (‘The Waters Run Murky’), directed by Hugo Del Carril in 1952, there is still very little research on the issue.

The Meaning of Being a Mensú

The word Mensú refers to a person or a group of people hired to work in the natural yerbales of the Alto Paraná region, which comprises the current Departments of Itapúa, Alto Paraná and Canindeyú in Paraguay and the Province of Misiones in Argentina. Mensú is a Guaraní transformation of the Spanish term ‘mensualero’ meaning ‘a person who receives a monthly payment’.

Poster for 'Prisioneros de la Tierra'.

Poster for ‘Prisioneros de la Tierra’.

Nevertheless, Mensú has another, darker, meaning, part of the dark history of the region. The Mensú regime was a system of labour exploitation based on a modern form of slavery, which was covered by a legal façade of labour contracts generally signed between the workers and middlemen acting on behalf of the yerbales owner.

These labour contracts established the conditions to set up a form of modern slavery: the Mensú recognised that the contractor, on behalf of the patron, had given him a salary advance and committed himself to pay that debt by working in the yerbales. In addition, the Mensú was unable to leave the settlement until this debt was paid off.

The cities of Posadas and Encarnación, in Argentina and Paraguay respectively, were the main sources of Mensú workers and the epicentre of middlemen activities. In many cases, the middlemen (who received a commission for every signed contract) were also the owners of general stores and brothels where the Mensú generally spent (or wasted) their salary advance in alcohol, tobacco, and women before they were put aboard boats that sailed up the Paraná River in order to be settled in the forests where natural yerbales grew. From this point on, hardship and violence, either implicit or explicit, were every day occurrences.

Once in the yerbales, the Mensú, either alone or with their families, stood at the mercy of the armed foremen (the capangas) and their henchmen, whose main task was to guarantee that the workers did not escape from the settlements and that they produced the quota of yerba mate they had been committed to. The capangas were willing to resort to every kind of measure to ensure the patron’s orders were obeyed; they became the owners of life and death in a cruel and well-hidden underworld.

A scene from 'Las Aguas Bajan Turbias'.

A scene from ‘Las Aguas Bajan Turbias’.

In this context, the ongoing coercion on the Mensú was considered an essential way to keep the workforce under control. The word coercion implied a wide range of options: psychological coercion, threats, physical punishments, sanctions, sexual abuse, and even the killing of those who dared to escape.

Life in the yerbales was miserable. The Mensú and their families (when they had gone with them or did not have the option to avoid going to the yerbales) were forced to work long hours, performing tasks which implied great physical effort. They were poorly fed and housed in extremely precarious settlements, where overcrowding was common.

The living conditions of women and children were even harder than those of the Mensú. The children in the settlements were not given any opportunity for schooling and in most of the cases had to work with the adults. On the other hand, if the women were not busy taking care of the children and the household, they also usually helped their husbands with the work at the yerbales. In many cases they were subjected to sexual abuse by the patron, the capangas and the henchmen.

Taking account of this hard reality, the spread of diseases and high mortality rates were common in the settlements. In many cases the Mensú who got sick were not allowed to go to Posadas or to the nearest town to receive medical attention and every day of work lost to health problems was added to the debt.

A Vicious Circle

This infamous form of modern slavery was in fact a vicious circle as many of the Mensú were trapped in a never-ending process of indebtedness. After enduring the tough work and life at the yerbales, they returned to the ‘recruitment centres’ of Posadas and Encarnación with almost no money, forcing them to seek a new salary advance and sign another debt contract. There were few other options to leave poverty.

The main reasons this system to function were the legal façade provided by the abusive contract the complicity of the local authorities who were aware of the system and allowed the owners of the plantations to implement it.

A scene from 'Prisioneros de la Tierra'.

A scene from ‘Prisioneros de la Tierra’.

The payment of the salary not in legal currency but in vales (payment notes) was another key component of the labour exploitation. These vales could be spent only at the settlement´s general stores which offered bad quality goods at extortionate prices. In this way, the Mensú, often living below the poverty line, took a long period to pay off his debt with the latifundista (the owner of the settlement).

A not so uncommon form of modern slavery

This system was not unique to the yerbales of Itapúa and Misiones. Indeed, it was also used in the Quebracho exploitations, mainly in the north of Santa Fe Province and the Paraguayan Chaco, as well as in the sugar factories of Tucumán Province and in the Paraguayan region of Guairá.

This infamous form of slavery, based on the exploitation of the Mensú´s workforce started in the Alto Paraná region in the 1870s, mainly due to two important factors: the expansion of companies, many of them of Argentine and under foreign ownership, that bought large estates on both sides of the Paraná River, and the relative availability of workforce after the end of the Triple Alianza War (1864 – 1870).

The system began to crumble in the 1940s and it was the consequence of many simultaneous reasons. First, the exploitation of natural yerbales was substituted by cultivated ones. Due to an increasing European immigration to the zone, a vast sector of the countryside was populated by newcomers who subsequently started to grow yerba mate in small and medium sized farms. Hence, the Mensú workforce was no longer so necessary.

Also at that time Argentina witnessed the rise of Peronismo and in consequence, a new wave of policies aimed at social welfare and labour protection.

Across the border in Paraguay, the decline of the Mensú exploitation system was slower; it was not until the 1960s that it entered to its final stage. Some important reasons were the increasing colonisation of the lands, the clearance of the subtropical forests to grow crops, and the substitution, as in Argentina, of natural yerbales with cultivated ones.

The tragedy of the Mensú is just a chapter of the unfinished history of Itapúa, Misiones, and the entire Alto Paraná region on both sides of the frontier. This region still has a long way to rediscover itself as a common matrix that traverses the national border. And a great effort is still required to put an end to another chapter of its history which began even before the Mensú, one of endemic social inequality, corruption, and injustice.

Posted in Analysis, News From Latin America, TOP STORYComments (0)

Top 5 Yerbas


Just because the summer heat has arrived doesn’t mean that it is time to stop enjoying mate. Whether you prefer organic, foreign, smooth, cooperative or strong, this list will help you find the right yerba for you.

Fields of Argentina Yerba Mate in Establecimiento Las Marías, (Photo by MateRojo)

Kraus Orgánica Mate

Like all types of farming, the yerba industry has its fair share of organic options. With its USDA Organic approval stamp, Kraus Orgánica is among the most popular organic yerbas. Kraus has been a family business since 1894 and because of its organic, kosher and fair trade standards, this yerba can only be found in specialty health shops, of which there are many in Buenos Aires.

The Kraus yerba farm is located in San Ignacio, Misiones, Argentina. The company prides itself on its “green” farming practices; they do not use any herbicides, pesticides or artificial fertilisers in the production process.

“We work within the system that nature has provided us,” owner Milton Kraus says.

The company also supports biodiversity by replanting native trees to the area. In spring and summer the yerba is harvested with the company’s machinery and in autumn and winter they harvest by hand.

This mate has a clean taste with a very slight hint of lemon. The only complaint is that the cycle is short and the yerba needs to be changed too frequently.

Mate in Uruguay (Photo by Chris Barrett)

Canarias

If you think Argentines drink a lot of mate, wait til you see what goes in Uruguay. Whether they are riding a motorcycle or going to the bathroom, Uruguayans have a tight bond with the herbal tea and always seem to have a thermos under their arm.

It is no surprise, then, that one of the most popular yerba producers is a Uruguayan company: Canarias. Started in 1951 in the city of Pando, Canarias is named after the Canary Islands to pay tribute to the birthplace of the founder’s parents.

Their vision is “to be recognised as the most prestigious company in Uruguay.” Through their devotion to “creating products that help improve consumers’ quality of life,” they are doing just that. Canarias boasts the benefits of yerba mate on the company website: cardiovascular health, age prevention, source of energy and digestion aid, among others.

There are seven different types of Canarias yerba ranging from tradicional (bitter and strong) to serena (herbal).

While Argentina may be the largest yerba producer, there is something to be said about Uruguay’s mate tradition. “In Uruguay, mate is a symbol of our identity,” Canarias website says. Canarias is a bit harder to find than local brands in Buenos Aires, but Coto supermarkets usually have it in stock.

Union Suave

When looking for a smoother, less intense and bitter taste, have a try of Union Suave. This yerba is known for its mild, smooth taste and also comes in orange, peach and apple flavours.

Union Suave is produced in the north of the Corrientes province by a company called Las Marias. Started in 1924 with a family love of plants, Las Marias has grown to be the largest producer of yerba mate in the world. Known primarily for their first product, Taragui, Las Marias produces five products in total, Union Suave being their most mellow.

The company’s founders and their help live on the yerba farm’s property in Corrientes. They have built an entire neighborhood including a school with more than 500 students, a hospital, and a sports club. They offer visits to the yerba farm and tours of their production process for those who are interested.

Las Marias exports to more than 40 countries worldwide and is very easy to find at most supermarkets in Buenos Aires.

Mate closeup, by Emilio Kuffer

Playadito

For those who are looking for an extremely mellow green tea taste without the strong herbal flavor of mate, Playadito is the yerba for you. Grown in Colonia Liebig, Corrientes, Playadito is produced by a cooperative. Started by a group of German, Ukranian and Polish immigrants over 80 years ago, the cooperative now has more than 140 workers producing honey, livestock and yerba.

If you are a first time mate drinker or have been turned off by the intense taste of yerba, the light Playadito is a good way to ease you in. The cooperative makes several kinds of yerbas in addition to their traditional Playadito including a tereré (to be drank cold) and a mate cocido (comes in the form of a tea bag).

Playadito also sells mate gourds, bombillas and termos in their signature colour: yellow. Visit http://www.cooperativaliebig.com.ar/ for purchasing details.

Amanda

Whether you are a seasoned mate drinker or are willing to dive head first into the land of “fuerte” mate, Amanda delivers a strong, bold taste that will stir both your brain and your taste buds.

This family-founded company (La Cachuera S.A.) from Misiones may have the strongest taste in the business but they are making their yerba one of the most accessible. While mate is usually enjoyed in a home or public space, Amanda has created “mate bars” throughout Buenos Aires city and province where people can go to enjoy Amanda yerba mate in a bar scene. Check their website for a list of locations: http://www.yerbamanda.com.ar/en/matebar.php

La Cachuera S.A. opened a museum in 1997 that pays tribute to the founder, Juan Szychowski and has been declared a point of tourism interest in Misiones province.

Amanda offers a flavoured yerba in lemon and orange as well as their most popular traditional brand. They also have a yerba that is produced without stems and another one that is mixed with herbs such as peppermint, pennyroyal, incayuyo, linden, boldo, mint and lemon vervain.

Posted in Food & Drink, Top 5Comments (1)

Advice for the Mate-Mystified


Mate with kettle (Photo by Daniel Horacio Agostini)

I learned to drink mate during my first months in Argentina on slow lunch shifts while waitressing. At first, I watched my co-workers pass the little gourd of steaming herbs around with intrigue, too intimidated by their unspoken cultural codes to accept it.

Finally, I got up the nerve to ask about mate-drinking etiquette. As they named off “dos” and “don’ts”, I remembered the single observation I had made while watching them: they do not touch the straw. Eager to show off my know-how, I shouted excitedly, “And you don’t touch the bombacha!”

The entire kitchen turned and gaped at me. In my still-sketchy Spanish, I had confused the words for “metal mate straw” and “panties”.

To help you avoid learning the hard way, we have broken it down. Pretty soon, you will be cebando a rueda de mate yourself.

Basic How-To

1. Bring the water to 70-80°C, never boiling, which “burns” the yerba and ruins the taste.
2. Fill the cup three-quarters full of yerba.

Mate hand dust (Photo by Benjamin Pender)

3. When pouring your herbs into your cup, a cloud of green dust will rise. That dust, when wet, dissolves into the water and travels up through the bombillaupon the first sips. Unlike the steeped leaves, it has an abrasive, gritty taste. To remove the dust from the leaves, place your palm on the rim of the cup, turn it upside down, shake, and turn it right side up again. You should have a faint green circle on your hand. Blow it away and repeat until no more circles appear.

4. Turn the cup right side up carefully, letting the yerba settle at a 45-degree angle.
5. It is polite to ask how your friends prefer their mate: amargo or dulce?
6. Pour in a bit of cold or warm water into the cavity at the bottom. Wait about 30 seconds for the yerba to absorb it. Repeat. Place the bombilla in the cavity. Then pour the hot water, filling the mate to the brim.
7. When pouring, some yerba will get wet and some might float to the top. Do not worry about dousing all of it. The dry yerba will submerge in time, allowing the mate to maintain its flavour a little longer.

The mate is ready! What Now?

The cebador will now prepare and distribute the mate. Firstly they will take one for the team in drinking the first few sips, which can be disagreeably strong. They will then pass the mate along to the first friend, who will drink and pass it directly back to them for water refills.

Do not touch the bombilla! Hold the mate by the gourd or cup. Unlike a soft drink, the straw is never held between the fingers when you drink. If it gets clogged, tell the cebador, but do not stir.

The mate cup will always be passed to you full and if you accept it, you will pass it back empty. It is fine to drink slowly, just make you sure you do not keep others waiting for more than a few minutes.

Handoff (Photo by Beatrice Murch)

Do not blow bubbles. Yeah. Don’t do that.

Do not ask for sugar, complain that the mate is too hot, or ask if this is hygienic. Criticising can offend the cebador, who is often very proud of their role. While some are concerned at sharing the bombilla, mate enthusiasts say that is exactly the point: sharing a bombilla is an honour, a gesture of intimacy and trust. If you do not want the mate, just politely decline.

Don’t say thank you. That is, unless you have had enough. A “gracias” when passing the mate back to its owner is a signal to stop passing you mate.

After the yerba becomes lavada, scoop it out into a bin and wash your cup so it is ready for the next rueda de mate.

Of course, everyone makes their mate differently, so you will likely hear plenty about your friends’ own methodologies. But regardless of how quickly you become a gran cebador, remember that the best part of mate is not actually mate, but the conversations it brews.

Fields of Argentina Yerba Mate in Establecimiento Las Marías, (Photo by MateRojo)

Posted in Food & Drink, TOP STORYComments (1)

Weekly News Roundup, April 6th


It’s Good Friday again!

It’s a holiday. It’s early. And yet here I am, half asleep, writing for you.

I hate you all so much.

Specially since I know that none of you will be reading this today. Maybe on Monday, when you’re back from your Holy Week escapades, you’ll casually remind yourself that you haven’t checked the news and visit this column. The world may be over by then, but no, you still don’t care right?

Whatevs.

So first things first, here are this week’s best suggestions for my weekly opening statement:

  • “I don’t care if Monday’s blue, Tuesday’s gray and Wednesday too.Thursday I don’t care about you, It’s Friday I write for you!” - By Jenny F.
  • “Fuck this shit, it’s Friday. I’m out!!!” - By Leandro DS
  • “Give me an F! Give me an R! Give me a… – ah, whatever, it’s Friday.” - By Mateo R.
  • ‘Last Friday, zero were the amount of fucks given about ur thoughts on my column’ - By Pablo G.

Thanks for your efforts kids! You truly outdid yourselves. All others who didn’t make it this week is because they sucked.

Now this is what you need to know:

  • I don't know what's up with this weird-looking photo of Boudou, but this is all Wikipedia had. Sorry. (Photo/Wikipedia)

    Well, now that the 30th anniversary of the Malvinas War is over, let’s all hope that this whole diplomatic rift goes away forever (until next year). As expected, there were commemorations of the conflict on both sides of the ocean, as well as political speeches, marches and riots. And where do you think most of those took place? You guessed right: here (but that’s probably because mostly no one in the UK gives a shit about this)! So last Monday we had:

  • President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner’s speech that she gave in Ushuaia, where she once again called for the UK to sit down and negotiate the island’s sovereignty. And even though she sometimes used her controversial rhetoric, I must say it wasn’t as bad as I expected. In fact she even seemed conciliatory when she said that this was a day to also mourn those British soldiers who perished in the war because “the death of a young person is always a tragedy.” She also stressed that the Argentine population is peaceful and that it will continue to be peaceful in the sovereignty negotiations. Here’s the video of her speech, for those two readers genuinely interested in it.
  • And, speaking of incendiary, those assholes from Quebracho, the extreme left-wing organization that the entire Argentine population seems to hate and yet they somehow continue to exist, decided that the best way to prove that Cristina was right about that “peaceful” part was to attack the British embassy in Recoleta. So they threw Molotov cocktails at the water cannon truck that was trying to disperse them and attacked the infantry officials with slingshots and marble balls (yes, a slingshot), all in the name of peace.
  • Now onto something else: Sometimes, when a political scandal erupts, I usually wait until it becomes a big thing to talk about it here. Mainly because most of them they just disappear into the night as fast as they crawled out from under a rug, and end up being irrelevant. This week, however, a corruption scandal involving none other than Vice-President Amado Boudou has entered the main political arena, so it’s time for you to know what’s going on. The case is fairly simple: our favorite Vice-President has been accused of using his influences as Economy Minister to lift the bankruptcy plans on a money-printing company called Ciccone. A judge investigating the case ordered a raid on one of his properties in Puerto Madero in order to prove that there is a connection between Boudou and the Ciccone CEO. (Have I lost you yet? ‘Cause I know that after a couple of lines of not making a joke you start drifting away. Still with me? Good.) OK, so Boudou was pretty pissed and gave a speech in Congress on Thursday, (here’s the video, if you wanna watch it) accusing the Clarín media group of being part of a mafia leading a smearing campaign against him.  So there. Now you’re got something else to talk about next time you end up trapped in a conversation about Argentine politics and need to prove you’re “totally into Argentina’s current political climate.” You owe me a beer.
  • Well, now things are bound to go to shit. That’s right everyone, start buying canned food and mineral water. Go to your basement (yes, I know people don’t have basements in this city, whatever) and stock up because  a civil war is coming. Yerba Mate, that bitter, silent anesthetic that has managed to keep Argentines from exploding in a bout of rage for centuries is now impossible to buy thanks to very high prices, caused by, well, no one is really sure. The Government is outraged since they say there is no reason for it to double its price in just a few days, while producers blame the hike on rising costs of production. Whatever the reason, drinking mate is now expensive. But let’s look on the bright side! I don’t like mate. So there.
  • Also, the World Trade Organization is pissed about Argentina’s latest import restrictions.  Since you don’t really understand what the WTO does, then it’s OK, you shouldn’t worry.
  • Speaking of Boudou, and trade barriers and shit, the Vice-President became something of a laughing stock this week after he tweeted that the Government is not against imports but “just looking after your jobs. We’re looking after the Argentine industry.” Of course that would have made complete sense, except he tweeted it from his personal iPhone, which not only is totally made in China, but is also a product impossible to get anywhere in the country due to the imports ban (unless you buy it in Mercado Libre, where you will surely be ripped off). Oh, well. It’s just a phone, right? I’m sure he doesn’t own any more apple produc…- Oh.
  • Also, the guy sitting in front of him with the weird hairdo that looks like the Argentine version of Jason Schwartzman is Economy Minister Hernán Lorenzino. He also owns an iPhone, as you can see in the photo. *giggles*
  • In other news, the Government continues its crusade against capital flight so now if you travel abroad and want to get dollars from an ATM, you better: A) Have a bank account that is not from an Argentine bank, B) Rob someone at gunpoint, or C) Have an Argentine bank account in dollars and pay the monthly fee that comes with it (the most difficult option of the three). The positive side of this is A) If you’re a foreigner living in Argentina you probably own an account in a foreign bank, and B) If you’re an Argentine chances are you can’t afford to travel abroad because getting dollars is a pain in the ass. So there. Now there’s no need to rob anyone. Yay!
  • Are you the lucky owner of a Movistar line? (You know where I’m going with this, don’t you? You’re already smiling). If you are, congratulations! You’re one of the lucky 16 million people who had no cell phone service for more than five hours last Monday, a service disruption that caused riots of biblical proportions throughout the country as angry teenagers failed to update their Facebook statuses on their cell phones or tweet about how “psyched” they were with the new Justin Bieber single or Skrillex, or whatever it is that kids listen to these days. The service was eventually restored after the company managed to fix a “system problem.” But that, of course, was not enough to appease the angry mob. Fortunately the Government always thinks of the costumer first and announced that they are considering the “worst kind of possible sanction” against Movistar. But wait, there’s more! The company has announced that all users will get compensation for the trouble caused: you will not be charged for that day. Which means you get like a $4 discount! And people say corporations are greedy.
  • In all fairness though, Movistar said there would be other freebies, such as free text messages from yesterday until Sunday and other stuff. Check it here.
  • Oh. You don’t read Spanish? Tough shit. Maybe you should finally stop relying on this column for everything and start learning the language, don’t you think? I’m a writer, not your nanny.
  • OK, so that terrible storm that hit the city last Wednesday was neither a

    This photo may or may not be from Palermo. I will conveniently not say. (Photo/Wikipedia)

    tornado nor a hurricane (even though if you look at this photo captured with a cell phone I still have my doubts), but it was still pretty fucking big. At least 15 people have been killed and many others have been injured after they were hit by falling branches or collapsing roofs.  Look, the media even created a video montage to illustrate the gravity of the situation. It has a scary soundtrack and everything! No, but in all seriousness now, politicians and scientists are agreeing that this storm was extremely unusual and that there is no recollection of Buenos Aires ever being affected by such strong winds. So there, maybe you were not here for the 2007 snow storm, but have now witnessed the storm of the century. Congratulations, maybe.

  • Three years ago, the Argentine population was introduced to a non-fictional character that would become the nation’s pet peeve for several months. When transvestite Zulma Lobato was discovered during a television interview in April 2009, she became an instant hit. Her off-key singing, her unexpected outbursts of rage and endless collection of wigs all contributed to her instant rise to celebrity status. For months, people (myself included) would shamelessly giggle at her quirkiness and deliriums of grandeur, since time after time she would repeat that she was destined to be on Dancing With The Stars even though her chances were rather slim. Not because she lacked the talent, of course (we all know you don’t need to be talented to be on that show). No, Zulma’s biggest liability was that she was not a hot, slutty 25-year old piece of ass. So the call never came, and when it finally sank in that people were laughing at her, not with her, she had a stroke on live television. And that’s when everyone said “Oh. Shit,” and realized we had all been making fun of a mentally-unstable person. But, alas! We live in a liquid society, in which we’re outraged by a Kony 2012 video, so we angrily post it on our Facebook profile, rallying others to join us in our global fight against injustice, until we see this video of two cats speaking French and we totally forget about it. So in a matter of seconds, Zulma disappeared from our televisions… until now! That’s right, she’s making her comeback! You know, if Britney Spears, Charlie Sheen and Lindsay Lohan have all had it, why couldn’t she? The problem with her new music video, besides reeking of amateurism, is that it seems to be just another excuse by some unscrupulous producer to keep laughing at her. So now it’s up to you. You can be an asshole and laugh at it, or angrily post it on your Facebook profile, rallying others to join you in your global fight against injustice, until you see this other video of two cats speaking French.

Happy Easter everyone!

Send Adrian your comments, thoughts or tips at adrianbono@hotmail.com or follow him on Twitter at @AdrianBono

Posted in Pages Only (Don't Select), Thoughts of a ForeignerComments (1)

Mad about Mate


Photo by Kate Stanworth
Traditional Mate

If you haven’t yet done it, visit Tigre. All riverside cafés, rowing boats and the smell of asados mixed with river air and hot popcorn. Although in my case, an overwhelming smell of mosquito milk; given that I’d decided to travel up the Delta with dengue in the headlines. Lots of water, in Tigre. Good mozzy breeding ground. But I was on a mission. I was in search of the mate museum, the only one in the world. And I like mate, a lot.

Located about ten minutes from the station, the museum is more of an open house than anything hugely grandiose. But it’s very pretty, and the guides are very amicable. We started with a short video on the production of mate, which was in Spanish but with interesting English subtitles. The terms “general psychophysical welfare” and “iencouraging and fastering” were among some of the phrases that brought a smile. My mother, accompanying me on my mate mission, was also convinced that there was some sort of subliminal message from the video. (“Did you not hear nice flavour being repeated at odd intervals?”)

After the film, which was a step-by-step guide to the production of mate, we were shown around. The whole place consists of five rooms, with varying yet overlapping displays. There are glass cases exhibiting a wonderful array of yerba brands, most of which are now defunct. Some of the titles are great though; Gold Dust and Noble Cowboy were along my favourites. You can see an ancient thermos, the smallest gourds in the world, crystal bombillas, old packages of mate in barrels. (If none of these words mean a thing to you, then you have a good reason to go along and find out.)

Photo by Hannah Mendoza
Gourd Instruments in Mate Museum

In one of the rooms, a selection of bizarre instruments hang on the wall. Our guide described how these were also made from gourd; it’s not just for drinking mate from. In the same room, underneath a magnifying glass, we looked at miniscule gourds and bombillas which were really rather charming, but not very useful. Unless you get your pet mouse into a mate habit.

The walls are plastered in traditional mate advertisements, which I found particularly endearing. In fact, the place is full of dated trinkets and gourds galore, from the ubiquitous goat-hoof seen in every market in San Telmo to beautiful crystal ones, used only by “high society”.

You also get the chance to sample a typical mate, sweetened or not (the ‘not’ hosts a bitterness rather like a cross between green tea and coffee; many people love it, but for the inexperienced it can be a little overwhelming.) This takes place under a straw-roof in a lovely little garden sitting behind the museum.

Given the national love for the infamous herb concoction, it seems a missed opportunity not to explore its history. This charming little museum is interesting and tells you everything you ever wanted to know about mate. However, the place is small. If you are in Tigre for the day, and mate is your cup of – well – mate, I would recommend popping in. I don’t know if I would make the trip just to see the museum; but as I’ve mentioned; Tigre’s nice. Even if you’re not au fait with the drink, it’s nice to learn a bit about it. For the die-hard mate fans, the mate museum is a must.

Entry is $10. The museum is open from 10am-6pm, Tuesday until Sunday. Lavalle, 289, Tigre. Tel. 011 2506 9594, or email info@elmuseodelmate.com, or visit elmuseodelmate.com.

Posted in Food & Drink, The TouristComments (1)


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