Saddle Up: Polo for Beginners in Buenos Aires

It is known as ‘the game of kings’, not to mention that of idle aristocrats, Argentine dandies, Persian princes, and the British model Katie Price, also known as Jordan. Nevertheless the glamour model has not quite made it in the stuck-up circles that frequent the game: she was turned away from a prestigious polo event attended by royalty for being ‘too chavvy’ despite knowing her forelocks from her fetlocks, and having written 11 books on ponies.

As I drove out of Buenos Aires to the ranch where I was to take my first polo lesson I wondered if I should have taken elocution lessons like Eliza Doolittle to help me pass as a lady. But I felt well armed in my gilet and jodhpurs, and I proceeded to feign my best Bucks accent in the hope that I would not be shown the door.

The journey to La Manea polo ranch was surprisingly short; in less than 40 minutes I had left the cement tower blocks and screaming car horns of the city behind. I found myself admiring the lush, green pastures, seeking shade from the sun under the trees which lined the avenues and enjoying the silence which was only broken by birdsong.

The ranch is named after the polo team who, when not competing in world championships, open their gates to teach tourists the reins. A member of the team, Fabian Jayat, came to greet me, and when he mentioned in passing that polo was a “rough and violent” sport, it did nothing to calm my nerves. Most of my horse riding skills involved trekking on a fat pony in Yorkshire, so I was slightly perturbed to be mounting a feisty thoroughbred and attempting to play a sort of croquet mid-air. I only hoped one did not have to ride side-saddle.

Jayat must have noticed my nervous disposition, and he quickly sought to reassure me by telling me that anyone can learn to play polo, even people who have never ridden a horse before.

I was shown to my steed, who I soon realised was not the feisty filly I had feared, but a tame, obedient horse bred specifically for the sport, called ‘polo mestizo’. Aptly named Shakira due to her dexterous hip movements, we were soon weaving left and right in hot pursuit of the ball.  My instructor was one of the four in the La Manea polo team, Sebastián González. A handsome man with a warm smile, he looked like he was blessed with the grace of a golfer, the courage of a bull fighter, and an arm of iron – ideal for swinging the heavy wooden mallet.

He approached me wearing the typical leather knee-pads used for riding off opponents, but immediately made me feel at ease.  We started with some basic riding techniques such as holding the reins with one hand, and the mallet in the other, before launching it full swing at the ball. As I aimed the cigar (the point on the end of the mallet) at the ball I missed by a long shot and nearly flew over Shakira’s head. This happened on a number of occasions and I was beginning to suspect that my mallet was really the conniving flamingo from ‘Alice in Wonderland’ who keeps moving the ball.

I had to remember to swing the mallet like a pendulum, simultaneously squeezing my thighs whilst sitting up in the saddle and leaning forward, to set me up for the perfect shot. Heels needed to be kept down, knee in line with foot, and back straight. Meanwhile my other hand was left holding the reins, neither too short nor too long, to keep control of the horse as I directed it towards the ball. Eventually, after practising this sequence repeatedly, I heard the satisfying clonk of wood touching ball, and I was pleased to see it rolling into the distance.

The game

My success at polo was probably thanks to my trusty stead Shakira more than anything, since in polo the quality of the horse can make a real difference. According to González, “the game is 90% horse and 10% rider”. These horses train every day and learn mainly by repetition. A game that is fast and furious, “the horse must learn to slam into others without baulking” when riding another opponent off.

With speeds reached of up to 30 miles per hour in a space of 300 yards, you need to be able to bring your horse to a halt before crashing into the spectator stands.  With this in mind the horses are tacked up with a useful four rein device that is much more powerful that the typical single rein, stopping the animal in its tracks. Polo games, depending on the location, are divided into chukkers of four to six minutes, although in Argentina, in special games, a chukker of seven minutes will be played. After each chukker the player must change horse as the animals tire after their intense spurt of activity.

González was a very patient, attentive polo instructor who did not push me beyond my capabilities. I always felt safe in his hands, which gave me the confidence to pick up speed, although admittedly this came at a compromise of not hitting the ball. Despite being a world class polo player, he portrayed none of the snobbish characteristics I had feared as I left the city.

After the lesson the players’ hospitality extended to a typical Argentine barbecue with quality steak and wine from Mendoza’s finest wineries. As the sun sank beneath the poplars we discussed the approaching Hurlingham polo tournament which would be held in Palermo in Buenos Aires. I certainly did not feel as though I had been scoffed at by a bunch of toffs all day; I felt like part of the team at La Manea.

If you are interested in playing polo or riding contact Fabian Jayat on jayatfabian@hotmail.com or tel. 15 6092 5956. See also www.lamaneapolo.com.

Accommodation and Trekking

The La Manea ranch has two guest houses each accommodating six people. With stone fireplaces and cow hide rugs, the atmosphere is cosy. There is also a tennis court and an outdoor swimming pool surrounded by the well-kept grounds. Beyond the pastures there are trails through woods for which trekking can be arranged. Lessons are mainly in Spanish, but some English is spoken.

How to get there

From Buenos Aires capital take 9 de Julio and follow the exit towards Ezeiza. At km 26 take the exit. Continue to km 41 (Tristan Suarez) and take a right hand turn when you get to the crossing onto the “Camino Real”. Once you are past the police station, take a left hand turn and follow the road for about 2 more minutes until you reach La Manea. Transport can also be arranged from the city.